1. E. R. Forrest, Missions and Pueblos of the Old Southwest (Cleveland, 1929), p. 159.

2. Maynard Amerine and Brian St. Pierre, "Grapes and Wine in the United States, 1600-1979," in Edward L. and Frederick H. Schapsmeier, eds., Agriculture in the West (Manhattan, Kans., 1980), pp. 108-13; A. J. Winkler et al., General Viticulture (Berkeley, 1974), pp. 3-4.

3. Josiah Gregg, The Commerce of the Prairies , ed. Milo Quaife (Chicago, 1926), pp. 150;-51.

4. W. W. H. Davis, El Gringo, or New Mexico and Her People (Santa Fe, 1938), p. 193.

5. C. W. Hackett, ed., Historical Documents Relating to New Mexico, Nueva Vizcaya, and Approaches Thereto, to 1773 (Washington, D.C., 1923-37), 3: 406.

6. Don Pedro Bautista Pino, Exposición , in Three New Mexico Chronicles , ed. H. B. Carroll and J. V. Haggard (Albuquerque, 1942), pp. 35, 97.

7. John T. Hughes, Doniphan's Expedition , reprinted in W. E. Connelly, Doniphan's Expedition and the Conquest of New Mexico and California (Topeka, 1907), p. 393.

8. Ibid., p. 393.

7. John T. Hughes, Doniphan's Expedition , reprinted in W. E. Connelly, Doniphan's Expedition and the Conquest of New Mexico and California (Topeka, 1907), p. 393.

8. Ibid., p. 393.

9. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1859, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1860), pp. 38-39.

10. Cozzens' Wine Press 5 (20 May 1859): 90.

11. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1859, Part II , p. 39.

12. William H. Emory, Report on the United States and Mexican Boundary Survey (Washington, D.C., 1857), 1: 49.

13. Irving McKee, "The Beginnings of California Winegrowing," Historical Society of Southern California Quarterly 29 (1947): 59-60.

14. See, e.g., Junípero Serra, Writings , ed. Antonine Tibeser, O.F.M. (Washington, D.C., 1955-66), 1: 263, 281.

15. Ibid., 5: 195.

14. See, e.g., Junípero Serra, Writings , ed. Antonine Tibeser, O.F.M. (Washington, D.C., 1955-66), 1: 263, 281.

15. Ibid., 5: 195.

16. Father Mugartegui to Serra, 15 March 1779, in Edith Buckland Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions (Los Angeles, 1952), p. 95.

17. "Alta California's First Vintage," in Doris Muscatine et al., eds., The University of California / Sotheby Book of California Wine (Berkeley and London, 1984), p. 15. This essay derives from Brady's earlier article, "The Swallow That Came from Capistrano," New West , 24 September 1979, pp. 55-59.

18. William Heath Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , ed. Harold A. Small (San Francisco, 1967), P. 5.

19. Hugo Reid, The Indians of Los Angeles County , ed. R. F. Heizer (Los Angeles, 1968), p. 79; Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions , pp. 96-97.

20. Eugene Duflot de Mofras, Travels on the Pacific Coast (Santa Ana, Calif., 1937), 1: 182; Hubert H. Bancroft, History of California (San Francisco, 1884-90), 5: 621-22n.; Maynard Geiger, Franciscan Missionaries in Hispanic California, 1769-1848 (San Marino, Calif., 1969), pp. 266-69.

21. Alfred Robinson, Life in California (Santa Barbara, 1970), p. 23.

22. Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions , p. 96.

23. Zephyrin Engelhardt, Missions and Missionaries of California (San Francisco, 1908-15), 3: 571—72·

24. Agoston Haraszthy, "Report on Grapes and Wines of California," in Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society 1858 (Sacramento, 1859), P. 312.

25. "Duhaut-Cilly's Account of California in the Years 1827-8," California Historical Society Quarterly 8 (1929): 228.

26. In 1834 San Luis Obispo, with forty-four acres of vineyard, was second to San Gabriel (Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions , p. 97). The fullest study of the mission statistics bearing on vineyards is by Jacob Bowman, "The Vineyards in Provincial California," Wine Review 11 (April-June 1943).

27. Engelhardt, Missions and Missionaries of California , 3: 571-72.

28. H. H. Bancroft, California Pastorat 1769-1848 (San Francisco, 1888), pp. 371-72; Haraszthy, "Report on Grapes and Wine of California," p. 312.

29. Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions , pp. 98-99.

30. Robert Archibald, The Economic Aspects of the California Missions (Washington, D.C., 1978), does not treat wine as a part of the general commerce of the missions.

31. Harrison Clifford Dale, ed., The Ashley-Smith Explorations , rev. ed. (Glendale, Calif., 1941), p. 195.

32. Bancroft, History of California , 2: 476n.

33. A survey in 1845 showed substantial vineyards at San Fernando, Ventura, Santa Barbara, and San Juan Bautista (Bowman, ''Vineyards of Provincial California," Wine Review 11 [May 1943]: 24).

34. Geiger, Franciscan Missionaries in Hispanic California , p. 80.

35. Ibid.

34. Geiger, Franciscan Missionaries in Hispanic California , p. 80.

35. Ibid.

36. Duflot de Mofras, Travels on the Pacific Coast , 1: 172.

37. Antoine Deutschbein, "Warsaw Wine," in Claude Morny, ed., A Wine and Food Bedside Book (London, 1972), pp. 68-69.

38. Georg Langsdorff, Narrative of the Rezanov Voyage to Nueva California in 1806 , trans. Thomas C. Russell (San Francisco, 1927), p. 101.

39. The evidence consists of frequent assertions by Los Angeles winemakers at midcentury that they had vines fifty, sixty, and seventy years old or older in their vineyards. See, e.g., Matthew Keller in Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1858, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1859), p. 345; Ludwig Louis Salvator, Los Angeles in the Sunny Seventies (Los Angeles, 1929), p. 139; Ben C. Truman, Semi Tropical California (San Francisco, 1874), p. 59. Admittedly this is likely to be highly inaccurate evidence, but such statements could not be maintained without at least some plausible appearance of truth.

40. Bancroft, History of California , 1: 647-48, 659, 665-66, 674, 677, 692-93, 715-16.

41. Herbert Eugene Bolton, Fray Juan Crespi (Berkeley, 1927), p. 148. The native grape of southern California, Vitis girdiana , is wholly unfit for winemaking.

42. Robert Glass Cleland, The Cattle on a Thousand Hills (San Marino, Calif., 1941), p. 19.

43. Ruth Teiser and Catherine Harroun, Winemaking in California (New York, 1983), p. 16.

44. Herbert E. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production in California (San Francisco, 1941), pp. 37-38.

45. Paul T. Scott, "Why Joseph Chapman Adopted California and Why California Adopted Him," Historical Society of Southern California Quarterly 38 (1956): 239-46.

46. J. Gregg Layne, "Annals of Los Angeles," California Historical Society Quarterly 13 (1934): 206.

47. In nineteenth-century statistics, the size of vineyards was more often than not reported in number of vines rather than in acres. It is an exasperating practice, since there is no rule as to the spacing of vines, and there is evidence to show that planting densities varied greatly: at one extreme there might be 3,000 vines to an acre; at the other, only 700-800. A rule of thumb in southern California was 1,000 vines to the acre; in northern California it was usually fewer, say 650.

48. Ernest P. Peninou and Sidney S. Greenleaf, A Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers in 1860 (Berkeley, 1967), p. 15.

49. J. Albert Wilson, History of Los Angeles County (Oakland, 1880), p. 33; Bancroft, History of California , 2: 526; 4: 717; J.J. Warner, "Reminiscences of Early California—1831 to 1846," Annual Publications, Historical Society of California 7 (1908): 190.

50. For Domingo, see Warner, "Reminiscences," pp. 192-93.

51. Inventory dated 4 April 1852 (MS, Huntington Library).

52. Fernand Loyer and Charles Beaudreau, Le Guide français de Los Angeles et du sud de la Califorhie (Los Angeles, 1932), p. 20.

53. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 23, 40; Harris Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California, 1853-1913 , 4th ed. (Los Angeles, 1970), p. 200; Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 222.

54. Wilson, History of Los Angeles County , p. 64.

55. California Historical Society Quarterly 8 (1929): 246.

56. Daniel Lévy, Les Français en Californie (San Francisco, 1884), p. 64. For the life of Vignes, see especially Léonce Jore, "John Louis Vignes of Bordeaux, Pioneer of California Viticulture," Southern California Historical Society Quarterly 45 ( 1963): 289- 303.

57. Idwal Jones says that Vignes made his stake by coopering, but there is no evidence for the

assertion (Jones, Vines in the Sun [New York, 1949], p. 212). Vignes did, however, have casks and barrels of his own coopering (Pierre Sainsevain to Arpad Haraszthy, 22 June 1886 [Bancroft Library]).

58. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 91.

59. Irving McKee, "Jean Paul [ sic ] Vignes, California's First Professional Winegrower," Agricultural History 22 (July 1948): 178.

60. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 91.

61. Ibid.

62. Ibid., p. 92.

60. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 91.

61. Ibid.

62. Ibid., p. 92.

60. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 91.

61. Ibid.

62. Ibid., p. 92.

63. Duflot de Mofras, Travels , 1: 184-85.

64. McKee, "Vignes," p. 179.

65. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 93.

66. For Wolfskill, see Iris Wilson, William Wolfskill, 1798-1866: Frontier Trapper to California Ranchero (Glendale, Calif., 1965).

67. Wilson, William Wolfskill , pp. 59, 72, 77, 82-86, 87, 99.

68. Ibid., pp. 157, 174, 176.

67. Wilson, William Wolfskill , pp. 59, 72, 77, 82-86, 87, 99.

68. Ibid., pp. 157, 174, 176.

69. Edwin Bryant, What I Saw in California (1849; reprint, Palo Alto, Calif., 1967), p. 412.

70. Wilson, William Wolfskill p. 158. The Sainsevain brothers anticipated Wolfskill's gift to Buchanan. A letter from the president to the Sainsevains of 14 January 1857 thanks them for their gift of wine and predicts the coming greatness of California as a winegrowing state (Buth Teiser and Catherine Harroun, Winemaking in California , p. 21).

71. W. H. Emory, Notes of a Military Reconnoissance flora Fort Leavenworth, in Missouri, to San Diego, in California , Senate Executive Documents, no. 7, 30th Cong., 1st sess. (Washington, D.C., 1848), p. 122.

72. "A Doctor Comes to California," California Historical Society Quarterly 21 (December 1942): 353.

73. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., p. 200.

74. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 24, 29.

75. Susanna Bryant Dakin, A Scotch Paisano in Old Los Angeles: Hugo Reid's Life in California, 1832-1852, Derived form His Correspondence (Berkeley, 1939), PP. 67, 69-70, 108, 113.

76. For Keller, see J. Gregg Layne, "Annals of Los Angeles," California Historical Society Quarterly 13: 315; Illustrated History of Los Angeles (Chicago, 1889), pp. 130-31; Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 19. Keller's article is "The Grapes and Wine of Los Angeles," in Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1858, Part II , pp. 344-48.

77. Bill of fare in Keller Papers, Huntington Library.

78. Keller to unidentified recipient, 13 April 1877 (Keller Papers).

79. 13 May 1878 (Keller Papers). Keller's doubtful standards of winemaking are also suggested by a remark in his obituary, that "he often said that there was no better than the ordinary Mission for all the purposes of a vigneron" (copy of unidentified newspaper obituary, 12 April 1881, Keller Papers).

80. J. De Barth Shorb to Mr. Leoser, 21 June 1877 (Shorb Papers, Huntington Library).

81. Walter Lindley and J. P. Widney, California of the South (New York, 1888), pp. 115-16.

82. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., p. 134.

83. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 (Sacramento, 1859), p. 285.

84. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 40.

85. Paul W. Gates, California Ranchos and Farms, 1846-1862 (Madison, Wis., 1967), pp. 116-17.

86. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 43

87. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1858, Part. II , p. 347.

88. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., pp. 202-3. The method of crushing by bare-footed Indians was still being used at the Pelanconi Winery in Los Angeles as late as 1876, but the practice was noted by that time as a curiosity (unidentified newspaper clipping [c. September 1976?], Huntington Scrap Books, vol. 1).

89. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., p. 25.

90. McKee, "Vignes," p. 179.

91. Ibid. It does not seem to have been the first in California. A letter from the Los Angeles winegrower T.J. White, dated 22 September 1855, states that White had sampled sparkling wine

90. McKee, "Vignes," p. 179.

91. Ibid. It does not seem to have been the first in California. A letter from the Los Angeles winegrower T.J. White, dated 22 September 1855, states that White had sampled sparkling wine

made by Benjamin D. Wilson ( California Farmer , 5 October 1855, p. 107). For Wilson and his Lake Vineyard, see p. 294.

92. McKee, "Vignes," p. 179.

93. Charles Kohler, Bancroft dictation, n.d. (MS, Bancroft Library, University of California).

94. Ibid. In 1855 the name was Kohler, Frohling & Scholler, Scholler presumably having furnished the money for the purchase of the Los Angeles vineyard. That partnership was dissolved in 1856. It was next called Kohler, Frohling & Bauck upon the entry of John Henry Bauck, who withdrew in 1860. Frohling died in 1862, but Kohler preserved the title of Kohler & Frohling thereafter (Leo J. Friis, John Frohling: Vintner and City Founder [Anaheim, Calif., 1976], pp. 10, 14, 23).

93. Charles Kohler, Bancroft dictation, n.d. (MS, Bancroft Library, University of California).

94. Ibid. In 1855 the name was Kohler, Frohling & Scholler, Scholler presumably having furnished the money for the purchase of the Los Angeles vineyard. That partnership was dissolved in 1856. It was next called Kohler, Frohling & Bauck upon the entry of John Henry Bauck, who withdrew in 1860. Frohling died in 1862, but Kohler preserved the title of Kohler & Frohling thereafter (Leo J. Friis, John Frohling: Vintner and City Founder [Anaheim, Calif., 1976], pp. 10, 14, 23).

95. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , pp. 47-48.

96. Kohler, Bancroft dictation.

97. Los Angeles Star , 24 October 1859, quoted in Wilson, William Wolfskill , pp. 173-74.

98. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., p. 294; Friis, John Frohling , pp. 31-32.

99. Vincent P. Carosso, The California Wine Industry, 1830-1895 (Berkeley, 1951), p. 33.

100. Ibid., p. 32.

101. Ibid.

99. Vincent P. Carosso, The California Wine Industry, 1830-1895 (Berkeley, 1951), p. 33.

100. Ibid., p. 32.

101. Ibid.

99. Vincent P. Carosso, The California Wine Industry, 1830-1895 (Berkeley, 1951), p. 33.

100. Ibid., p. 32.

101. Ibid.

102. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 99.

103. Annual Report of the American Institute, 1862-1863 (Albany, N.Y., 1863), pp. 85-88.

104. To B. D. Wilson, 17 September 1858 (Wilson Papers, Huntington Library).

105. Justin Kaplan, Mr. Clemens and Mark Twain (New York, 1966), p. 14.

106. Titus Fey Cronise, The Natural Wealth of California (San Francisco, 1868), p. 391.

107. Mechanics' Institute, Report of the 11th Industrial Exhibition (San Francisco, 1876), pp. 210-11.

108. Charles Kohler, "Wine Production in California," p. 7 (MS, Bancroft Library).

109. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 35-36.

110. Ibid., p. 37.

109. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 35-36.

110. Ibid., p. 37.

111. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 85.

112. Irving McKee, "Early California Wine Growers," California 37 (September 1947): 16.

113. Otto von Kotzebue, A New Voyage round the World in the Years 1823, 24, 25, and 26 (London, 1830), 2: 100.

114. Sir George Simpson, An Overland Voyage round the World (Philadelphia, 1847), 1: 179-80.

115. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 37.

116. Ibid., pp. 32, 34, 72-73.

115. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 37.

116. Ibid., pp. 32, 34, 72-73.

117. Wilson, William Wollfskill , p. 129.

118. Marsh is in the Dictionary of American Biography ; see also Bryant, What I Saw in California , pp. 303-4; and George D. Lyman, John Marsh, Pioneer (New York, 1930), p. 220.

119. McKee, "Early California Wine Growers," pp. 35-36; id., "Historic Wine Growers of Santa Clara County," California 40 (September 1950): 14; Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 67-68; Teiser and Harroun, Winemaking in California , p. 29.

120. Davis, Sevenif-Five Years in California , p. 54.

121. Bancroft, History of California , 5: 643; John Walton Caughey, California (New York, 1940), p. 305.

122. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 11, 71.

123. Report of California State Board of Agriculture, 1911 (Sacramento, 1912), p. 184.

124. Bancroft, History of California , 7: 47; Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 70.

125. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 86.

126. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1860 (Sacramento, 1861), p. 242.

127. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 23-24.

128. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 68.

129. Report of California State Board of Agriculture , 1911, p. 184.

130. C. A. Menefee, Historical and Descriptive Sketch Book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake and Mendocino (Napa, Calif., 1873), p. 203.

131. Report of California State Board of Agriculture , 1911, p. 184.

132. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 83.

133. California Horticultural Society, Report of the First Atnnual Exhibition (1857), in San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the First Industrial Exhibition (San Francisco, 1858), p. 148.

134. E.g., California Farmer , 7 December 1855, p. 179.

135. "An Act to provide for the better encouragement of the culture of the Vine and the Olive," Statutes of California , 10th sess. (Sacramento, 1859), p. 210.

136. Carosso, California Wine Industry , p. 50.

137. Julius Jacobs, "California's Pioneer Wine Families," California Historical Quarterly 54 (Summer 1975): 151.

138. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 (Sacramento, 1859), p. 257.

139. Charles L. Sullivan, Like Modem Edens: Winegrowing in Santa Clara Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains, 1798-1981 (Cupertino, Calif., 1982), pp. 17, 20.

140. California Farmer , 19 October 1855, p. 125.

141. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858, p. 257.

142. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 50.

143. Ernest P. Peninou, A History of the Orleans Hill Vineyard and Winery (Winters, Calif., 1983), pp. 6-7.

144. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 55-56. But according to an item in the California Farmer , 17 June 1859, Stock imported his vines in 1855: they came from his father's estate near Bingen, on the Rhine.

145. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 260; Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 64.

146. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , pp. 252-53, 256.

147. Irving McKee, "George West: Pioneer Wine Grower of San Joaquin County," California 44 (September 1954): 17-18.

148. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 241.

149. Louis J. Stellman, Sam Brannan, Builder of San Francisco (New York, 1953), pp. 154, 169, 174.

150. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 68.

151. California Farmer , 2 December 1859, p. 133. On the Black St. Peters, see Charles L. Sullivan, "A Viticultural Mystery Solved," California History 57 (Summer 1978): 123.

152. MS, 19 November 1886 (Shorb Papers, Huntington Library).

153. Leon Adams, "Historical Note," in Grapes and Grape Vines of California (New York, 1981), no pagination.

154. Report of California State Board of Agriculture , 1911, p. 197.

155. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1860 , p. 244.

156. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1859 (Sacramento, 1860), p. 301.

157. Charles Loring Brace, The New West: or, California in 1867-1868 (New York, 1869), pp. 253-54.

158. John S. Hittell, The Resources of California (San Francisco, 1863), p. 207.