1. Ning-hai district, now within the modern city of Ning-po, was part of T'ai Prefecture.

2. Guardian Liang's Mountain (Liang-huang-shan) was named after a prince of the Liang dynasty who fled there during a civil war.

3. Terrace Mountain (T'ai-shan) is another name for Terrace of Heaven Mountain.

4. Pine Gate Ridge (Sung-men-ling) marks the border between modern Ning-hai and T'ien-t'ai districts.

5. Feng-hua, a district within Ning-po Prefecture during the Ming, is now within the modern city of Ning-po.

6. The Temple of the Peaceful Nation (Kuo-ch'ing-szu) was the largest temple on the mountain and the seat of the T'ien-t'ai sect of Buddhism. Completed in 598, it received this name in 605. In 804, the Japanese monk Saicho (767-822) was ordained at this temple, and the following year he returned to Japan to establish the Tendai sect, which is still active today.

7. The Rock Bridge (Shih-liang) is the most famous of the eight scenic wonders of the mountain, located northeast of the Temple of the Peaceful Nation.

8. Lien-chou was a fellow local and one of Hsü Hung-tsu's traveling companions.

9. The Temple of the Celestial Realm (T'ien-feng-szu) was founded by Chih-i in 575. He spent time there annotating sutras, and his memorial pagoda is located in the environs. The temple is located south of the summit and was given this name sometime during or after the Sung dynasty.

10. The Monastery of the Lotus Summit (Hua-ting-an) was built on the site of the Temple for the Encouragement of Goodness (Shan-hsing-szu), founded by the monk Te-shao in 936. The name was changed in the Sung and the buildings viewed by Hsü were actually built in the Ming following several fires.

11. Li Po Hall (T'ai-po-t'ang) was built to commemorate the T'ang poet Li Po, who was reputed to have visited the mountain.

12. The Cave of the Yellow Court Scripture (Huang-ching-tung) derives its name from a legend that the calligrapher Wang Hsi-chih had written out his famous version of this text for the Taoist adept Pai-yün, who stored it in this cave.

13. The Upper Monastery of the Universal Teachings (Shang-fang-kuangszu), together with the Lower Monastery (Hsia-fang-kuang-szu), was built in 1101. They arc scenically located above and below the Rock Bridge, respectively.

14. The Pavilion of the Udumbara Blossom (T'an-hua-t'ing) was built by the Southern Sung prime minister Chia Szu-tao (1213-1275) and named after a mythical Indian tree that products fruit without flowering. It blossoms every three thousand years, symbolizing the rare appearance of a Buddha.

15. Broken Bridge (Tuan-ch'iao) is located about a mile north of the Rock Bridge, and the Curtain of Pearls (Chu-lien) farther north still. Both were difficult to reach and rarely visited during Hsü's time.

16. The Temple of Eternity (Wan-nien-szu), five miles west of the Rock Bridge, was built by the monk P'u-an in 833. The sutras were donated in 1587 by the Empress Dowager Tz'u-sheng. The sects of Ch'an Buddhism were traditionally divided into "Northern" and "Southern" Schools.

17. The Paulownia and Cypress Monastery (T'ung-po-kung) was the largest Taoist temple on the mountain, located about seven miles from the Temple of the Peaceful Nation. The Mountain of Paulownia and Cypress (T'ung-poshan) was another name for Terrace of Heaven Mountain. The temple was built in 711 for Szu-ma Ch'eng-chen (655-735), the twelfth patriarch of the Shang-ch'ing sect of Taoism, on a site where the wizard Ko Hsüan (164-244) was reputed to have prepared elixirs. The original buildings were demolished by fire at the end of the Yüan and rebuilt in the Ming.

18. Jade Terrace (Ch'iung-t'ai) and the Double Gatetowers (Shuang-ch'üeh) were considered by another travel writer, Hsü's friend Wang Szu-jen (1574-1646), as the most impressive of the eight famous scenes on the mountain. Hsü described these sites in a subsequent diary recording his second journey here in 1632.

19. The Two Crags (Liang-yen) are Cold Crag (Han-yen) and Bright Crag (Ming-yen), which actually form one mountain located beyond Terrace of Heaven, west of the scat of T'ien-t'ai District. Bright Crag received its name in the tenth century and was the site of a temple and ten famous secures.

20. Peach Spring (T'ao-yüan) is based on a legend set during the Yung-p'ing era of the Eastern Han dynasty (A.D. 58-75). Liu Ch'en and Juan Chao entered the mountain in search of herbs and lost their way; after eating some peaches to allay their hunger, they began to feel ethereal and soon encountered two beauties beside a stream, with whom they lived for half a year. When they returned to their village, they found that seven generations had passed. It was only in 1087, however, that the local authorities opened a road, planted peach trees, and developed the site as a tourist spot, another one of the eight famous scenes on the mountain.

21. The Emerald Cliffs (Ts'ui-pi) refers to the Two Crags. Red Citadel (Ch'ih-ch'eng) is a mountain west of the Temple of the Peaceful Nation. Regarded as the southern gateway to the mountain, it, too, was one of the eight famous sights.

22. Maiden Ts'ao River (Ts'ao-o-chiang), which flows into Hang-chou Bay, is named after the legend of a maiden during the Eastern Han dynasty who drowned while trying to recover her farther's body in the river. The stream it is compared to here is the Stream of Good Fortune (Fu-hsi), one of its tributaries.

23. Han-shan and Shih-te were two Ch'an monks who lived on the mountain in the eighth century during the T'ang. Han-shan, known for his lively poetry exalting the freedom of a life of Buddhist cultivation, dwelled in poverty at the Temple of the Peaceful Nation; Shih-te often saved food for him. Together with the monk Feng Kan, son of a former prime minister, they were known as the "Three Recluses" (San-yin) and often met at Bright Crag to drink and write poetry. Han-shan and Shih-te were later popularly worshipped as incarnations of Mañjusri * and Samantabhadra.

24. Eight-Inch Pass (Pa-ts'un-kuan) is one of the ten famous scenes of Bright Crag, formed by two large rocks in front of the gate to Bright Crag Temple (Ming-yen-szu).

25. On the myth of the Bridge of Magpies (Chüch-ch'iao), see above, 28. Yüan Hao-wen, A Trip to Chi-nan , note 14.

26. The Temple Guarding the Nation (Hu-kuo-szu) stood southwest of Peach Spring. It was built in 957 and received this name in the Sung.

27. An allusion to the two travelers Liu Ch'en and Juan Chao who lost their way here. See note 20 above.

28. Peach Blossom Vale (T'ao-hua-wu) is located within Peach Spring Mountain (T'ao-yüan-shan) and near a cave reputed to be where Liu Ch'en and Juan Chao dwelled with the two beauties. In the Ming, another traveler, Wang Shih-hsing (1547-1598), built a lodge in front of the cave, probably the one referred to here. It later became a monastery.

29. Ringing Jade Torrent (Ming-yü-chien) is located west of Peach Blossom Vale and known for the crashing sounds of its water against the rocks.

30. The Cave of the Jade Capital (Yü-ching-tung) is located on the middle level of Red Citadel. It is considered by Taoists to be one of the Ten Greater Celestial Caves. Gold Coin Pool (Chin-ch'ien-ch'ih) is located slightly north of the Cave of the Jade Capital. According to legend, the monk T'an-yu (d. ca. 396) recited sutras here and a spirit rewarded him with gold coins, which he threw into the pond. The Well for Cleansing the Intestines (Hsi-ch'ang-ching) is located below the Red Citadel. When T'an-yu attempted to worship at the Temple of the Universal Teachings, a resident arhat perceived that his viscera had become contaminated by scallions while he was still a fetus and refused to admit him. T'an-yu then used water from the well to purify his intestines, whereupon a large patch of scallions grew around the well.

31. Translated from Hsü Hung-tsu, Hsü Hsia-k'o yu-chi (Shanghai, 1982), 1:1-6; Hsü, Hsü Hsia-k'o ming-shan yu-chi hsüan-chu (Peking, 1985), pp. 15-29.

1. Pontoon Bridge (Fu-ch'iao) was built in 1509 on top of some fifty boats spanning the Li River (Li-chiang).

2. Flower Bridge (Hua-ch'iao) spans the eastern stretch of the Li River where the Little East River (Hsiao-tung-chiang) and the Magic Sword River (Lingchien-chiang) meet. Rebuilt in 1540 in stone, it is more than two hundred feet in length, with eleven arches. The four arches of the eastern section support a decorated portico known as the "Rainbow over Flower Bridge" (Hua-ch'iao hung-ying).

3. This rock is known as the Celestial Pillar (T'ien-chu-shih) and stands between fifty and sixty feet high. It was used to record the level of the Li River and bears an inscription marking a flood on July 31, 1106.

4. The four jagged peaks on the northeast constitute Potala Mountain (P'ut'o-shan). These form the "cup" of the dipper, while the three peaks on the southeast, known as Crescent Mountain (Yüeh-ya-shan), form the "handle," hence the name "Seven Stars" (Ch'i-hsing).

5. Plucking Stars Pavilion (Chai-hsing-t'ing), located to the right of the cave entrance, was built during the T'ien-ch'i era (1621-1627). The quote, "a pavilion with eaves like wings," alludes to Ou-yang Hsiu's description of the Pavilion of the Old Drunkard.

6. Ts'ao Neng-shih (1574-1647), named Hsüeh-ch'üan, served as a military counselor in Kuei-lin. He was the author of several travel records and geographical works recording scenic places.

7. Hsü called stalagmites "stone bamboo shoots" ( shih-sun ) and stalactites "pillars" ( chu ), terms still used today in Chinese, both popularly and scientifically.

8. The Cave Perched on Mist (Ch'i-hsia-tung), now regarded as part of Seven Stars Cavern, is located on the middle level of the mountain. The name dates from the T'ang, when the cave had strong associations with Lao-tzu, the traditional founder of Taoism.

9. Lao-tzu's Terrace (Lao-chün-t'ai) formerly held an image of the philosopher.

10. The cavern contains three such "Celestial Gates," lofty entrances with pillars of stone rising on each side.

11. Otter's Pool (T'a-tzu-t'an), now known as Scabby Pool (Lai-tzu-t'an), flows out at Bean Sprout Crag (Tou-ya-yen) and into the Magic Sword River.

12. The divine youth Sudhana (Chinese: Shan-ts'ai t'ung-tzu) is one of the Four Victorious Bodies in Buddhism who transcended the cycle of rebirth and achieved a pure embodiment. Born in a flood of precious stones, his image is commonly found to the left of the Bodhisattva Kuan-yin.

13. Dragon River (Lung-chiang) is located beyond the third Celestial Gate, the name deriving from the belief that dragons dwell in grottoes and in watery bodies below cliffs.

14. Red Carpet (Hung-chan) and White Carpet (Pai-chan), now known as Golden Gauze (Chin-sha) and Silver Gauze (Yin-sha), respectively, are curtains of rock and among the most famous sights in the cavern.

15. Layered Colors Mountain (Tieh-ts'ai-shan), named after its multicolored rock resembling piles of brocade, is located within the city of Kuei-lin on the west bank of the Li River. It contains Windy Cave (Feng-tung), through which wind blows from north to south, remaining cool even in summer.

16. Tseng Pu (1036-1107), from Nan-feng in modern Chiang-hsi, was originally a key supporter of Wang An-shih's New Policies but shifted his allegiance when Emperor Shen-tsung (r. 1067-1085) lost confidence in Wang's reforms. He later sought to mediate between the conservative and reform factions, rising to the senior position of right: vice-director of the Department of State Affairs. From 1078 to 1080, he served in Kuang-hsi as a military commander.

17. The Monastery of the Forest of Blessings (Ch'ing-lin-kuan), located in front of the Cave Perched on Mist, was established on the orders of Emperor T'ai-tsung of the T'ang (r. 626-649). He was impressed by an unusual rock from Kuei-lin presented to him and decreed that a monastery be built where the rock originated. The emperor also bestowed the name, "Forest of Blessings."

18. The Cave of the Springtime Visit (Sheng-ch'un-tung) is named after the custom of a local official who used to return to visit his family here in the spring and help with the planting.

19. Sword's Trail River (T'o-chien-shui), now called the Magic Sword River (Ling-chien-chiang), is part of the upper reaches of the Li River. It flows through the eastern section of Kuei-lin through the north part of Seven Stars Cavern before merging with the Little East River (Hsiao-tung-chiang) outside at Flower Bridge.

20. Yao's Mountain (Yao-shan), located five miles northeast of Kuei-lin, was named after the sage-king Yao to complement a temple opposite it dedicated to Yao's successor, Shun.

21. Old Ko's Bridge (Ko-lao-ch'iao) is located beside the Temple Perched on Mist, less than a mile east of Kuei-lin.

22. The Li River flows along the western edge of Kuei-lin and eventually into the Pearl River (Chu-chiang), which enters the sea at Kuang-chou. During the Ch'in dynasty, the first canal was dug linking the Li with the Hsiang and hence with the Long River, forming an extended system connecting central and south China.

23. See Lun-yü 41:20:2. According to Confucius, the Five Excellences ( wu-mei ) in government are bestowing benefits without waste; encouraging labor without complaint; desiring humaneness and being without avarice; treating others with equanimity and without arrogance; and maintaining dignity without aggression. He also defined the Four Evils ( szu-wu ) as savagery—executing people without having taught them; tyranny-expecting completed work without first issuing warnings; oppression—insisting on a time limit yet delaying in issuing orders; bureaucratism—creating obstacles when granting someone something.

24. Chang Nan-hsüan (1133-1180), better known as Chang Shih, is best remembered as a Neo-Confucian philosopher ranked with Chu Hsi and Lü Tsuch'ien. He wrote a noted travel account of a journey he made to Transverse Mountain together with Chu. The son of a general, Chang was appointed magistrate of Kuei-lin in 1172 and served for five years, during which time he suppressed a local rebellion in the Kuang-nan Circuit. Each character in the inscription is about five inches large.

25. The name of the Cave of the Encountered Transcendent (Hui-hsien-yen) derives from a legend that a visitor once met the Taoist Transcendent Lü Tung-pin here.

26. Ch'en Fu, from P'u-t'ien, Fu-chien, became a Metropolitan Graduate in 1163. He rose to vice-minister of war and once visited Kuei-lin.

27. It has been noted by commentators that another source containing Ch'en's inscription printed a homonym for chu (islet)—that is, chu (all, every). See Hsü Hung-tsu, Hsü Hsia-k'o ming-shan yu-chi , p. 202; and Yeh and Pei, Li-tai yu-chi , p. 267.

28. Pellet Mountain (Tan-wan-shan), less than a mile from Kuei-lin, arises by Pellet Stream (Tan-wan-hsi), whose name derives from the shape of rocks ill the water.

29. Seven Stars Monastery (Ch'i-hsing-kuan), at the foot of Seven Stars Mountain, was built during the reign of the Southern Sung emperor Li-tsung (r. 1224-1264).

30. Morning Clouds Cave (Chao-yün-yen) lies on the west side of Seven Stars Mountain and contained Buddhist hermitages.

31. Hui-chou Prefecture, now located within modern An-hui province, was during the Ming part of Nan-chih-li. Its government scat was located in She District.

32. The City of Rivers (Chiang-ch'eng) is another name for Kuei-lin.

33. Hsü Hung-tsu had earlier visited Transverse Mountain m the period February 15-23, 1637, while on this journey to the southwest.

34. Heng-chou is the modern city of Heng-yang, Hu-nan. The Green Bamboo Monastery (Lü-chu-an) is located outside the city's north gate.

35. Yü's Mountain (Yü-shan), also known as Shun's Mountain (Shun-shan) after the ancient sage-king, is to the northwest of Kuei-lin. It contains the Music of Shao Cave (Shao-yin-tung) as well as temples, pavilions, and many ancient inscriptions.

36. East Town Gate Mountain (Tung-chen-men-shan) derives its name from its location near the northernmost gate of the c eastern section of Kuei-lin.

37. Windy Cave Mountain (Feng-tung-shan) is another name for Layered Colors Mountain (Tieh-ts'ai-shan), also, as Hsü points out, known as Cassia Mountain (Kuei-shan). Dragon Tree Cave Mountain (Mu-lung-tung-shan) is named after an old tree which legend states grew suspended from a cliff and resembled a giant dragon. One day, during a violent storm, it turned into a dragon and swam off into the sea.

38. Fu-po's Mountain (Fu-po-shan) is named after the Han general Ma Yüan (14 B.C.—A.D. 49), courtesy name Fu-po. A stalactite in its Cave of the Returned Pearls (Huan-chu-tung) called "Demonstrating Swordsmanship" (Shihchien-shih) is said to have resulted from a performance by Ma here,

39. Flowerscape Mountain (Hua-ching-shan) is located in the north of Kueilin and contains a cave of the same name. Formerly the site of several temples, it is noted for the scenic effect of clouds and mist swirling about its summit.

40. Lingering Horse Mountain (Ma-liu-shan) is connected to Flowerscape Mountain.

41. Retirement Mountain (Yin-shan), located in the west of Kuei-lin, was originally an island, though later it became surrounded by fields; it contains six caves.

42. Marquis Mountain (Hou-shan), located less than three miles west of Retirement Mountain, derives its name from its tall, oblong shape like the ancient hat of a marquis. King of Good Fortune Mountain (Kuang-fu-wangshan) is named after a temple there dedicated to this popular god.

43. The Mountain of Unique Beauty (Tu-hsiu-shan) stands alone, dominating the center of Kuei-lin. During the Ming, it stood within the palace of the Prince of Ching-chiang and was not open to the public. A number of inscriptions on it celebrate its striking appearance.

44. Mount Li (Li-shan) now generally refers to Elephant Trunk Mountain (Hsiang-pi-shan), a picturesque rock with a large arch through which the Li River passes; the thinner part of the arch resembles an elephant's trunk. On top is an old pagoda, and below, the Cave of the Moon-in-the-Water (Shuiyüeh-tung). Elsewhere m this diary, though, Hsü noted that several other mountains nearby were also known as "Mount Li." Pierced Mountain (Ch'uan-shan) derives its name from the Cavern of Luminous Space (K'ungming-yen), which runs through it from north to south.

45. Hsü had earlier moved from an inn to the home of Chao Shih-yü, an office manager, preferring it for its cleanliness and spaciousness.

Translated from Hsü, Hsü Hsia-k'o yu-chi , 1: 293-298; Hsü, Hsü Hsia-k'o ming-shan yu-chi , pp. 190-206; Yeh and Pei, Li-tai yu-chi , pp. 255-267.