10 The Haraszthy Legend
1. The name is pronounced in Hungary as Hair' as tee , Hungarian being a language in which the stress uniformly falls on the first syllable; in America the usual pronunciation seems to be Hair ahz' thee .
2. What is currently known about Haraszthy is summarized in Theodore Schoenman, Father of California Wine: Agoston Haraszthy (Santa Barbara, 1979).
3. Ibid., p. 15.
2. What is currently known about Haraszthy is summarized in Theodore Schoenman, Father of California Wine: Agoston Haraszthy (Santa Barbara, 1979).
3. Ibid., p. 15.
4. V. S. Pease, "Agoston Haraszthy," in Proceedings of the State Historical Society, of Wisconsin, 1906 (Madison, 1907), p. 227.
5. Schoenman, Father of California Wine , p. 17. A very circumstantial account of Haraszthy's political activity and the reasons for his "flight" from Hungary are given in a manuscript entitled "The Haraszthy Family" by Arpad Haraszthy, the colonel's son, now in the Bancroft Library. This document is the basis of many details in the received account of Haraszthy's life and work, but its demonstrable errors make it unreliable in general.
6. Oswald Ragatz, "Memoirs of a Sauk Swiss," Wisconsin Magazine of History 19 (December 1935): 204n.
7. Paul Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story" (reprinted from Wines and Vines [San
Francisco, 1947?], p. 2. Some notes accompanying Arpad Haraszthy's "The Haraszthy Family" (see n. 5 above), evidently drawn from Agoston Haraszthy's account books, state that Haraszthy did not plant vines in Wisconsin until May 1848, only a few months before he left the state. After Haraszthy's departure the vineyard property was taken over by a German named Peter Kehl, who built a winery in 1867 that operated until 1899; it lay dormant thereafter until 1973, when its present owner bought it and restored it to wine production. What sorts of grapes Haraszthy may have planted is not known; Peter Kehl grew native varieties.
8. It is "The Haraszthy Family" manuscript.
9. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," pp. 3-4.
10. See Brian McGinty, Haraszthy at the Mint , Famous California Trials, no. 10 (Los Angeles, 1975).
11. Agoston Haraszthy, "Wine-Making in California," Harper's 29 (June 1864): 23.
12. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 (Sacramento, 1859), p. 243; but the figures given for Haraszthy's operations typically show much variation: The Alta California , 21 September 1863, reports that there were 34,000 vines at Buena Vista in 1858; in the First Annual Report of the Board of State Viticultural Commissioners (San Francisco, 1881), it is stated on the authority of Arpad Haraszthy that 200,000 vines had been put in at Buena Vista in 1857, and another 68,000 in 1858 (2d ed., p. 110).
13. Or so Arpad Haraszthy affirmed in "Early Viticulture in Sonoma," in Sonoma County and Russian River Valley Illustrated (San Francisco, 1888), p. 78. The figures in the State Register show 170,000 vines for Sonoma and Mendocino Counties in 1857, but only 87,621 in 1858; evidently a mistake has been made. The U.S. Census of 1860 reports only 1,190 gallons of wine from Sonoma County, an impossibly low figure.
14. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 242.
15. Agoston Haraszthy, Grape Culture, Wines, and Wine-Making (New York, 1862), p. 70.
16. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1859 (Sacramento, 1860), pp. 269-70.
17. Alta California , 21 September 1863.
18. So Haraszthy himself says: "Thousands were printed by the Legislature and distributed among the people" ("Wine-Making in California," p. 24). I have not succeeded in finding a copy of the essay as a separate pamphlet.
19. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 323.
20. Ibid., p. 326.
19. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 323.
20. Ibid., p. 326.
21. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 7.
22. Ibid., p. 5.
21. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 7.
22. Ibid., p. 5.
23. The other two commissioners were Colonel J. J. Warner of San Diego and Abraham Schell of Knight's Ferry, Stanislaus County. Haraszthy's and Warner's reports are in "Report of Commissioners on the Culture of the Grape-Vine in California," Appendix to Journals of Senate and Assembly, 13th sess., no. 12 (Sacramento, 1862). Abraham Schell was replaced by a Mr. Ramirez of Marys-ville, who does not seem to have reported.
24. Haraszthy, Grape Culture, Wines, and Wine-Making , p. 140.
25. "Report of Commissioners on the Culture of the Grape-Vine in California," pp. 7-10.
26. Haraszthy, Grape Culture, Wines, and Wine-Making , p. 142.
27. "Report of Commissioners on the Culture of the Grape-Vine in California," p. 9.
28. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 9.
29. A special committee of the state senate visited Haraszthy's Buena Vista property to inspect his imported vines and recommended to the Committee on Agriculture against purchasing them. The Committee on Agriculture recommended that no action be taken ( Journal of the Senate , 13th sess., 1862 [Sacramento, 1862], pp. 502-3: 7 April 1862). The vote on the recommendation was evenly split. On 15 April a special order was made for Act No. 433, "to purchase certain vines, and provide for the distribution of the same" (ibid., p. 558). On 16 April it was moved and voted by 20 to 9 to "indefinitely postpone" the bill (ibid., p. 570).
28. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 9.
29. A special committee of the state senate visited Haraszthy's Buena Vista property to inspect his imported vines and recommended to the Committee on Agriculture against purchasing them. The Committee on Agriculture recommended that no action be taken ( Journal of the Senate , 13th sess., 1862 [Sacramento, 1862], pp. 502-3: 7 April 1862). The vote on the recommendation was evenly split. On 15 April a special order was made for Act No. 433, "to purchase certain vines, and provide for the distribution of the same" (ibid., p. 558). On 16 April it was moved and voted by 20 to 9 to "indefinitely postpone" the bill (ibid., p. 570).
30. Advertisement in California Farmer , 24 May 1861 and after.
31. Los Angeles Star , 22 February 1862.
32. The list of Haraszthy's importations appears in the First Annual Report of the Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, 2d ed. (Sacramento, 1881), pp. 184-88.
33. This is substantially the account given by Arpad Haraszthy in "The Haraszthy Family" and
"Early Viticulture in Sonoma" (see nn. 5 and 13 above); his is the basis of most subsequent accounts and may be called the Arpad Haraszthy version of the Haraszthy story. Frona Eunice Wait depended on Arpad's version for the account of Haraszthy in her influential Wines and Vines of California (San Francisco, 1889), pp. 91-94. In this she sometimes took over verbatim parts of Arpad's "Early Viticulture in Sonoma."
34. Haraszthy, "Wine-Making in California."
35. For a summary of the evidence for Zinfandel's earlier history in the United States, see Charles L. Sullivan, "A Viticultural Mystery Solved," California History 57 (Summer 1978): 115-29; and the same author's "An Historian's Account of Zinfandel in California," Wines and Vines 58 (February 1977): 18-20.
36. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 98.
37. Sullivan, "Viticultural Mystery Solved," pp. 117-18.
38. Leon Adams, The Wines of America , 3d ed. (New York, 1985), p. 548.
39. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1879 (Sacramento, 1880), p. 146.
40. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, First Annual Report , p. 26.
41. Charles Wetmore, Ampelography of California (n.d., n.p.; "Reproduced and revised from San Francisco Merchant of January 4th and 11th, 1884"), p. 10.
42. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 9.
43. Carosso, California Wine Industry , p. 68.
44. Ibid. Since the law then forbade a corporation to hold more than 1,440 acres, the California legislature obligingly passed a special exemption for the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society ( Journal of the Senate , 14th sess., 1863 [Sacramento, 1863], p. 467:17 April 1863).
43. Carosso, California Wine Industry , p. 68.
44. Ibid. Since the law then forbade a corporation to hold more than 1,440 acres, the California legislature obligingly passed a special exemption for the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society ( Journal of the Senate , 14th sess., 1863 [Sacramento, 1863], p. 467:17 April 1863).
45. Of the society's 400 acres of vineyard, 260 were in Mission grapes ( Alta California , 21 September 1863).
46. Ibid.
45. Of the society's 400 acres of vineyard, 260 were in Mission grapes ( Alta California , 21 September 1863).
46. Ibid.
47. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 70-71. Arpad left the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society in 1864; three years later Buena Vista "Sparkling Sonoma Wine" took a diploma of honorable mention at the Paris Universal Exposition.
48. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 71-72.
49. Wilson Flint to Benjamin D. Wilson, 2 November 1865 (Wilson Papers, Huntington Library).
50. See Schoenman, Father of California Wine , p. 35.
51. Alta California , 26 August 1869.