1. See, e.g., Robert Buchanan, The Culture of the Grape, and Wine-Making , 5th ed. (Cincinnati, 1854), p. 6i.

2. Ophia D. Smith, "Early Gardens and Orchards," Bulletin of the Historical and Philosophical Society of Ohio 7 (April 1949): 72.

3. American State Papers, Public Lands , 1:256-57 (3 February 1806).

4. On Longworth generally, see Clara Longworth de Chambrun, The Making of Nicholas Longworth (New York, 1933); and Louis Leonard Tucker, "'Old Nick' Longworth: The Paradoxical Maecenas of Cincinnati," Cincinnati Historical Society Bulletin 25 (1967): 246-59.

5. Nicholas Longworth, "The Grape and Manufacture of Wine," in The Western Agriculturist and Practical Farmer's Guide (Cincinnati, 1830), p. vii.

6. Date derived from Robert Buchanan's statement in 1850 that Longworth's oldest vineyard dated from twenty-seven years earlier (Buchanan, A Treatise on Grape Culture in Vineyards, in the Vicinity of Cincinnati [Cincinnati, 1850], p. 18).

7. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1847 (Washington, D.C., 1848), p. 462.

8. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 106.

9. Ibid., p. 23. As early as 1832 Longworth had written: "I regret that more attention has not been bestowed in collecting native grapes from our forests and prairies. To them, and new varieties raised from their seed, we must resort, if we wish success" (Longworth to H. A. S. Dearborn, 10 October 1832, American Farmer 14 [21 December 1832]: 326).

8. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 106.

9. Ibid., p. 23. As early as 1832 Longworth had written: "I regret that more attention has not been bestowed in collecting native grapes from our forests and prairies. To them, and new varieties raised from their seed, we must resort, if we wish success" (Longworth to H. A. S. Dearborn, 10 October 1832, American Farmer 14 [21 December 1832]: 326).

10. Longworth, "The Grape and Manufacture of Wine," p. 305.

11. Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York, 1898), p. 61.

12. Thomas Trollope, What I Remember (New York, 1888), p. 122.

13. Frances Trollope, Domestic Manners of the Americans , 5th ed. (New York, 1927), p. 6n.

14. Trollope, What I Remember , p. 122.

15. Buchanan, Treatise on Grape Culture , p. 58.

16. John F. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba': Grape Growing and Wine Making in Cincinnati, 1800-1870" (M.A. thesis, University of Cincinnati, 1964), p. 39.

17. Ibid., pp. 18, 22, 41.

16. John F. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba': Grape Growing and Wine Making in Cincinnati, 1800-1870" (M.A. thesis, University of Cincinnati, 1964), p. 39.

17. Ibid., pp. 18, 22, 41.

18. Longworth, "The Grape and Manufacture of Wine," p. 205.

19. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 22.

20. Committee on Wines, Cincinnati Horticultural Society, "Report on Wines" (1845), in Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1845 (Senate Documents, 29th Cong., 1st sess., no. 307, pp. 950-52).

21. Horticulturist 2 (1847-48): 318.

22. American Agriculturist 9 (1850): 119.

23. Horticulturist 2 (1847-48): 383; Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 58.

24. The Cultivator , 3d ser., 6 (September 1858): 276.

25. "Longworth's Wine House" (Cincinnati, n.d. [c. 1864]). Copy in the Library of Congress.

26. The Cultivator , 3d ser., 6: 275. Fournier may have brought other Frenchmen from Champagne with him: a visitor to Longworth's wine cellar in 1855, after remarking that the practice there was identical with that followed in Epernay, added: "Indeed, all the men employed in the cellar are from that neighborhood" (Charles Weld, A Vacation Tour in the United States and Canada [London, 1855], p. 209). After ten years in Cincinnati, Fournier returned to France "with a snug fortune acquired in America" (William J. Flagg, Three Seasons in European Vineyards [New York, 1869], p. 148).

27. American Agriculturist 5 (1846): 351.

28. Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue of the Great Exhibition (London, 1851), 3: 1433.

29. Louis Leonard Tucker, "Hiram Powers and Cincinnati," Bulletin of the Cincinnati Historical Society 25 (January 1967): 37-38.

30. Sludge says of Champagne, "I took it for Catawba" ("Mr. Sludge, the Medium," line 9).

31. First published in the Atlantic Monthly , January 1858.

32. De Chambrun, Longworth , pp. 31-32.

33. The Cultivator , 3d ser., 6 (1858): 275.

34. Charles Mackay, Illustrated London News , 20 March 1858, p. 297. Catawba has had a singular success among the poets. In addition to the effusions of Longfellow and Mackay, another, by one William Fosdick, appeared in the Cincinnati Daily Commercial of 11 December 1855: the poet apostrophizes the grape as, among other things, "the rarest of all vines the fair Catawba."

35. Isabella Trotter, First Impressions of the New World on Two Travellers from the Old (London, 1859), p. 2o7.

36. W. J. Flagg, "Wine in America, and American Wine," Harper's Magazine 41 (June 187o): 111. Flagg was Longworth's son-in-law and a former manager of the Longworth Winery.

37. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 59; Paul Cross Morrison, "Viticulture in Ohio," Economic Geography 12 (1936): 73; Bureau of the Census, Agriculture of the United States in 1860 (Washington, D.C., 1864), p. 186.

38. Cozzens' Wine Press 1 (20 September 1854): 25.

39. See Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" especially ch. 5.

40. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1853, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1854), pp. 299, 310; Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 2d ed., pp. 61, 116; American Farmer , 4th ser., 14 (December 1858): 198.

41. E.g., Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 50.

42. Harper's Weekly 2 (24 July 1858): 472.

43. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 61.

44. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1850, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1851), pp. 238-41; Horticulturist 4 (1849-50): 397.

45. Horticulturist 4 (1849-50): 397; Buchanan, Culture of the Vine , 5th ed., pp. 28ff.

46. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1868 (Washington, D.C., 1869), p. 575.

47. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1850 , p. 241.

48. Western Horticultural Review 1 (1850-51): 293.

49. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 55.

50. But for a rival claim, see p. ooo and the Gasconade Grape Growing Society.

51. Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue of the Great Exhibition , 3: 1433.

52. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 54.

53. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 93.

54. Ibid., p. 32.

55. Ibid., pp. 32, 40, 54.

53. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 93.

54. Ibid., p. 32.

55. Ibid., pp. 32, 40, 54.

53. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 93.

54. Ibid., p. 32.

55. Ibid., pp. 32, 40, 54.

56. See, e.g., Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" pp. 68-71; 77-80.

57. Cozzens' Wine Press 1 (20 August 1854): 18.

58. Buchanan, Culture of the Vine , 5th ed., p. iii; American Farmer , 4th ser., 14 (December 1858): 198; Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 67.

59. U. P. Hedrick, The Grapes of New York (Albany, N.Y., 1908), p. 313; Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" pp. 72-73.

60. James Parton, "Cincinnati," Atlantic Monthly 20 (1867): 240.

61. Flagg, "Wine in America," p. 112; De Chambrun, Longworth , p. 104, says it was taken over by Moerlein's, a German brewery.

62. Flagg, "Wine in America," p. 112.

63. George C. Huntington, "Historical Sketch of Kelley's Island," Fire Lands Pioneer 4 (June 1863): 46.

64. See Huntington, "Historical Sketch of Kelley's Island"; Bert Hudgins, "The South Bass Island Community (Put-in-Bay)," Economic Geography 19 (January 1943): 16-36; J. R. McGrew, "A Brief History of Grapes and Wine in Ohio to 1865," American Wine Society Journal 16 (9184): 38-41.

65. Morrison, "Viticulture in Ohio," p. 74.

66. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 45.

67. Harlow Lindley, ed., Indiana as Seen by Early Travellers (Indianapolis, 1916), p. 8.

68. John James Dufour, The American Vine-Dresser's Guide (Cincinnati, 1826), p. 214.

69. Dufour, for example, repeats the statement: Vine-Dresser's Guide , p. 18.

70. Gottfried Duden, Bericht über eine Reise nach den Westlichen Staaten Nordamerikas (Elberfeld, 1829).

71. For Duden's influence on German settlement in Missouri, see William G. Bek, "Gottfried Duden's 'Report,' 1824-1827," Missouri Historical Review 12 (October 1917): 1-9.

72. William G. Bek, The German Settlement Sociefy of Philadelphia and Its Colony Hermann, Missouri (Philadelphia, 1907), p. I. For the details in the rest of this paragraph, see Bek, pp. 44-45, 55, 59.

73. Charles Van Ravenswaay, The Arts and Architecture of German Settlements in Missouri (Columbia, Mo., 1977), p. 48.

74. Ibid., pp. 51-52.

73. Charles Van Ravenswaay, The Arts and Architecture of German Settlements in Missouri (Columbia, Mo., 1977), p. 48.

74. Ibid., pp. 51-52.

75. Bek, German Settlement Society , p. 46.

76. Michael Poeschel, quoted in Henry Lewis, Valley of the Mississippi Illustrated (St. Paul, 1967), pp. 262-63.

77. Friedrich Muench, "Vine-Culture in Missouri" (MS, Harvard University, 1967), p. 1.

78. George Husmann, The Cultivation of the Native Grape, and Manufacture of American Wines (New York, 1866), p. 18.

79. Bek, German Settlement Society , p. 152.

80. Ibid., p. 153.

79. Bek, German Settlement Society , p. 152.

80. Ibid., p. 153.

81. J. T. Scharf, History of St. Louis (Philadelphia, 1883), 2: 1329.

82. Husmann, Cultivation of the Native Grape , p. 20.

83. George Husmann, An Essay on the Culture of the Grape in the Great West (Hermann, Mo., 1863), pp. 36, 40.

84. Muench, "Vine-Culture in Missouri," p. 2; Husmann, Cultivation of the Native Grape , p. 18, says that a Mr. Heinrichs brought the Norton to Hermann and that Wiedersprecher first grew it.

85. As early as 1851 Muench was exploring the Ozark region of Missouri hoping to find varieties of grape resistant to the rot: Muench, "Vine-Culture in Missouri," p. 2.

86. W.J. Flagg, Three Seasons in European Vineyards (New York, 1869), p. 97.

87. Charles Loring Brace, The New West, or, California in 1867-68 (New York, 1869), p. 291.

88. George Husmann, for example, made 2,000 gallons of catawba at Hermann in 1857, but in 1858 only 200 gallons from the same acreage ( Cultivation of the Native Grape , p. 181); Hermann's entire

production of catawba wine in 1857 was 90,000 gallons; in 1858, 15,000 gallons (Muench, "Vine-Culture in Missouri," p. 5).

89. Eight thousand gallons of catawba were consigned from Hermann to Longworth in 1858, at $1.25 a gallon ( DeBow's Review 24 [1858]: 449). It is only fair to Cincinnati to say that, at the New York Exhibition of 1854, Cincinnati wines took both silver and bronze medals, Missouri wines nothing higher than honorable mentions ( Cozzens' Wine Press 1 [20 September 1854]: 25).

90. History of Franklin, Jefferson, Washington, Crawford and Gasconade Counties (Chicago, 1888), pp. 672-73, 1112, 1119.

91. American Agriculturist 20 (December 1862): 368-69.

92. Husmann, Cultivation of the Native Grape , pp. 24, 183, 190, 191.

93. Lewis, Valley of the Mississippi Illustrated , p. 262.

94. On Muench, see Julius T. Muench, "A Sketch of the Life and Work of Friedrich Muench," Missouri Historical Society Collections 3 (1908): 132-44.

95. George Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making , 4th ed. (New York, 1895), pp. 263-64.

96. It is based on Husmann's earlier "Essay on the Culture of the Grape in Missouri," published in 1859 as part of the Report of the Fourth Annual Fair of the St. Louis Agricultural and Mechanical Association, St. Louis, 1859. The 1859 essay was awarded a prize of $15 by the association.

97. A biographical sketch of Husmann appears in the Dictionary of American Biography .

98. Husmann, Cultivation of the Native Grape , p. 159.

99. Isidore Bush and Son, Illustrated Descriptive Catalogue of Grape Vines, Small Fruit, and Potatoes (St. Louis, 1869).

100. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 352; id., Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards (New York, 1945), p. 150.

101. A Toast to Ontario Wines (1979), p. 7.

102. William G. Bek, "The Followers of Duden," Missouri Historical Review 17 (1922): 333.

103. For a biographical sketch of Engelmann, see the Dictionary of American Biography .

104. For Bush, see Jacob Furth, "Sketch of Isidor Bush," Missouri Historical Society Collections 4 (1912-23): 303-8.

105. "Biographical Sketch" reprinted from American Academy of Arts and Sciences, Proceedings 20, in The Botanical Works of the Late George Engelmann , ed. William Trelease and Asa Gray (Cambridge, Mass., 1887), 1: vi.

106. Gustave Koerner, Memoirs, 1809-1896 , ed. T.J. McCormack (Cedar Rapids, Iowa, 1909), 1: 296-97.

107. Ibid., 2: 633.

106. Gustave Koerner, Memoirs, 1809-1896 , ed. T.J. McCormack (Cedar Rapids, Iowa, 1909), 1: 296-97.

107. Ibid., 2: 633.

108. Oswald Garrison Villard, "The 'Latin Peasants' of Belleville, Illinois," Journal of the Illinois State Historical Society 35 (1942): 14; Maynard Amerine, "Hilgard and California Viticulture," Hilgardia 33 (July 1962): 2.

109. For Eugene Hilgard's work in California, see below, pp. 351-52. A life of Hilgard appears in the Dictionary of American Biography .

110. Leon Adams, The Wines of America (Boston, 1973), p. 139.

111. DeBow's Review 24 (1858): 550.

112. Cozzens' Wine Press 3 (20 January 1857): 57.

113. Guido Rossati, Relazione di un viaggio d'istruzione negli Stati Uniti d'America (Rome, 1900), pp. 117-18; Scharf, History of St. Louis , 2: 1329-30. Another Missouri enterprise was the St. Louis Vine and Fruit Growers Association, with vineyards of European grapes at Vinelands in 1861: after visiting the association's vineyards, a committee of inspection prophesied that the highlands south and west of St. Louis would "rival France and Germany" (unidentified clipping, 18 September 1861, Hayes Scrapbooks, Bancroft Library).

114. Walter B. Stevens, St. Louis (Chicago and St. Louis, 1909), 3:916-18.

115. Alden Spooner, The Cultivation of American Grape Vines and Making of Wine (Brooklyn, 1846), p. 9; Bailey, Evolution of Our Native Fruits , p. 94.

116. This very un-Anglo-Saxon effusion sounds better in its native French: "Protège mes faibles écrites. . . protège ma vigne, fais qu'elle prospère et que je puisse bientôt faire des libations sur ta tombe en y pressant le doux Muscat et le suave Malvoisie."

117. Farmer's Register 2 (March 1835): 614.

118. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape (1852), p. 25.

119. Henry R. Stiles, A History of the City of Brooklyn (Albany, N.Y., 1869), 2: 135-36n.

120. Three generations of Princes figure in the Dictionary of American Biography .

121. The catalogue is printed as an appendix to William Robert Prince, Treatise on tile Vine (New York, 1830).

122. Hedrick, Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards , p. 148. Prince's book was written with the assistance of his father, William Prince, and drew largely upon the elder Prince's Short Treatise on Horticulture (New York, 1828), which devotes some thirty pages to a description of the Linnaean Garden's stock of vines, both native and foreign.

123. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 353.

124. Ibid. Prince names seventy-four correspondents.

125. Ibid., p. vii.

123. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 353.

124. Ibid. Prince names seventy-four correspondents.

125. Ibid., p. vii.

123. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 353.

124. Ibid. Prince names seventy-four correspondents.

125. Ibid., p. vii.

126. The Isabella was widely grown in the Carolinas in the eighteenth century: see Hedrick, Grapes of New York , pp. 308-9.

127. Prince, Treatise on the Fine , p. 166. The Isabella was one of the varieties most favored in Europe during experimentation with American vines in the phylloxera years; it is now, according to Pierre Galet, the most widely planted grape in the world—from Canada to Africa, from Fiji to the Balkans ( American Wine Society Journal 13 [Spring 1981]: 19).

128. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 166.

129. Ibid., pp. 321-24. Prince had recommended sulfur and lime in an earlier article in the American Farmer 11 (10 July 1829): 132.

128. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 166.

129. Ibid., pp. 321-24. Prince had recommended sulfur and lime in an earlier article in the American Farmer 11 (10 July 1829): 132.

130. Stiles, History of Brooklyn , 2: 135.

131. American Farmer 11 (16 October 1829): 243; entry on Parmentier in the Dictionary of American Biography .

132. American Farmer 11 (26 February 1830): 396.

133. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , pp. 23-24.

134. Spooner, Cultivation of American Grape Vines , pp. 57-59; Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 24.

135. The Cultivator , 3d ser., 7 (March 1859): 99.

136. American Agriculturist 19 (February 1860): 61.

137. Leon Adams, The Wines of America , 3d ed. (New York, 1985), p. 149.

138. On Stephen Underhill's work, see Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 226n.

139. Alexander Jackson Downing in The Horticulturist 2 (1847-48): 122.

140. Conway Zirkle, "Beginnings of Plant Hybridization," Agricultural History 43 (1969): 33.

141. Adams, Wines of America , 3d ed., pp. 151-52. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 55, says that Jaques's vineyard was planted in 1837; if so, this makes it unlikely that he could have been producing wine in 1839.

142. Philip Wagner, American Wines and Wine-Making (New York, 1956), p. 77.

143. See Hedrick, Grapes of New York , pp. 82-83.

144. Goldsmith Denniston, "Grape Culture in Steuben County," Transactions of the New York State Agricultural Society, 1864 (Albany, N.Y., 1865). For a recent survey of early Finger Lakes wine history, see Dick Sherer, "Finger Lakes Grape Pioneers," Vineyard View (Hammondsport, N.Y.), Autumn 1983, p. 14.

145. W. W. Clayton, History of Steuben County, N.Y . (Philadelphia, 1879), p. 379.

146. Ibid., p. 380.

147. Ibid., p. 96.

145. W. W. Clayton, History of Steuben County, N.Y . (Philadelphia, 1879), p. 379.

146. Ibid., p. 380.

147. Ibid., p. 96.

145. W. W. Clayton, History of Steuben County, N.Y . (Philadelphia, 1879), p. 379.

146. Ibid., p. 380.

147. Ibid., p. 96.

148. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 54.

149. Ibid., p. 83.

148. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 54.

149. Ibid., p. 83.

150. Denniston, "Grape Culture in Steuben County," pp. 133-34; Clayton, History of Steuben County , P. 97.

151. Denniston, "Grape Culture in Steuben County," p. 134.

152. American Wine Press and Mineral Water Review 1 (1 March 1897): 7; Hedrick, Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards , p. 184.

153. Information from Mr. Charles D. Champlin, who also states that the Massons are not related to the Paul Masson of the California winery.

154. Denniston, "Grape Culture in Steuben County," p. 134.

155. Hedrick, Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards , p. 184.

156. William McMurtrie, Report upon the Statistics of Grape Culture and Wine Production in the United States for 1880 , U.S. Department of Agriculture Special Report no. 36 (Washington, D.C., 1881), p. 84.

157. George Howell Morris, "Rise of the Grape and Wine Industry in the Naples Valley during the Nineteenth Century" (M.A. thesis, Syracuse University, 1955), pp. 38, 45.

158. The Cultivator 6 (November 1858): 338; 7 (May 1859): 143.

159. Lewis Cass Aldrich, History of Yates County, N.Y . (Syracuse, N.Y., 1892), p. 241.

160. Raymond Chambers, "The Chautauqua Grape Industry," New York History 16 (July 1935): 249-50.

161. John Downs, ed., History of Chautauqua County (New York, 1921), 2: 28.

162. Ibid., 2: 28-29; Chambers, "Chautauqua Grape Industry," p. 254, puts this in 1854.

161. John Downs, ed., History of Chautauqua County (New York, 1921), 2: 28.

162. Ibid., 2: 28-29; Chambers, "Chautauqua Grape Industry," p. 254, puts this in 1854.

163. Chambers, "Chautauqua Grape Industry," p. 260; Downs, History of Chautauqua County , 1: 69; 2: 29; 3: 677-78.