1. D. B. Quinn, North America from Earliest Discovery to First Settlements (New York, 1977), p. 32.

2. Samuel Eliot Morison, The European Discovery of America: The Northern Voyages, A.D . 500-1600 (New York, 1971), ch. 3.

3. M.L. Fernald, "Notes on the Plants of Wineland the Good," Rhodora 12 (1910): 23-25, 32-38.

4. Quinn, North America , p. 32.

5. J. R. McGrew, "A Review of the Origin of Interspecific Hybrid Grape Varieties," American Wine Society Manual no. 10 (Royal Oak, Mich., 1981), p. 2; George Ordish, The Great Wine Blight (London, 1972), p. 8.

6. A. J. Winkler et al., General Viticulture , rev. ed. (Berkeley, 1974), p. 657; Philip Wagner, "Wine from American Grapes," American Mercury 28 (1933): 360.

7. Philip Wagner, Grapes into Wine (New York, 1976), p. 34. On American varieties in general, see Liberty Hyde Bailey, "The Species of Grapes Peculiar to North America," Gentes Herbarum 3 (1934): 149-244.

8. U. P. Hedrick, The Grapes of New York (Albany, N.Y., 1908), p. 28.

9. Samuel Eliot Morison, ed. , Journals . . . of Columbus (New York, 1963), p. 242.

10. William Bradford, 16 November 1620, in Alexander Young, Chronicles of the Pilgrim Fathers (Boston, 1841), p. 130. Labrusca is the Latin word for the wild vine of Europe, but it was given by Linnaeus, confusingly enough, to this American species.

11. M. A. Amerine and W. V. Cruess, The Technology of Wine Making (Westport, Conn., 1960), P. 59.

12. Amerine and Cruess, Technology of Wine Making , p. 59.

13. Wines and Fines 69 (July 1978): 62.

14. McGrew, "Origin of Interspecific Hybrid Grape Varieties"; T. V. Munson, Foundations of American Grape Culture (Denison, Tex. [1909]); Winkler et al., General Viticulture . Other native species that have contributed to the development of useful hybrids include V. berlandieri, V. candicans, V. champini, V. cinerea, V. lincecumii, V. longii , and V. monticola .

15. Richard Hakluyt, The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques, and Discoveries of the English Nation (1589; reprint, Glasgow, 1903-5), 8: 430.

16. Morison, European Discovery of America , p. 298.

17. Hakluyt, Principal Navigations , 8:430.

18. Ibid., p. 221.

17. Hakluyt, Principal Navigations , 8:430.

18. Ibid., p. 221.

19. Howard S. Russell, Indian New England before the Mayflower (Hanover, N.H., 1980), p. 85.

20. Hakluyt, Principal Navigations , 10: 51, 56.

21. Francisco Watlington-Linares, "The First American Wine," Eastern Grape Grower and Winery News 9 (October-November 1983): 50-52, based in part on the work of Dr. Stanley South for the Institute of Archaeology and Anthropology, University of South Carolina, 1980, 1981.

22. Ibid.

21. Francisco Watlington-Linares, "The First American Wine," Eastern Grape Grower and Winery News 9 (October-November 1983): 50-52, based in part on the work of Dr. Stanley South for the Institute of Archaeology and Anthropology, University of South Carolina, 1980, 1981.

22. Ibid.

23. Hakluyt, Principal Navigations , 8: 298-99.

24. E.g., Hakluyt, Divers Voyages Touching the Discovery of America (London, 1850), p. 134; Hakluyt, Principal Navigations , 8: 355.

25. Quoted as motto to P. Morton Shand, A Book of French Wines (London, 1928), and roughly translatable as: "A good Frenchman, when I drink my glass filled with ardent wine I thank God that they haven't got any in England."

26. Léonie Villard, La France et les États-Unis (Lyon, 1952), p. 52.

27. Michael Drayton, "Ode to the Virginian Voyage" (1606), in Poems , ed. John Buxton (Cambridge, Mass., 1953), 1: 123-25.

28. George Percy, "Discourse" (1608?), in Philip L. Barbour, ed., The Jamestown Voyages under the First Charter, 1606-1609 (Cambridge, 1969), 1: 138.

29. Francis Magnel's "Relation" (c. 1607-8), in Barbour, Jamestown Voyages , 1: 153.

30. Robert Johnson, "Nova Britannia," in Peter Force, ed., Tracts Relating Principally to the Origin, Settlement, and Progress of the Colonies in North America , 4 vols. (Washington, D.C., 1836-46), 1: no. 6, p. 16.

31. Robert Johnson, "The New Life of Virginia" (1612), in Force, ed., Tracts , 1: no. 7, P. 9.

32. Johnson, "Nova Britannia," p. 16.

33. Captain John Smith, A Map of Virginia (1612), in Barbour, Jamestown Voyages , 2: 346.

34. William Strachey, The Historic of Travell into Virginia Britania (1612) , ed. L. B. Wright and Virginia Freund (London, 1953), pp. 121-22.

35. Alexander Brown, The Genesis of the United States (Boston, 1890), 1: 385

36. "A True Declaration of the Estate of the Colony in Virginia" (1610), in Force, ed., Tracts , 3: no. x, pp. 20, 23.

37. Lord De La Warr to Virginia Company (7 July 1610), in Brown, Genesis of the United States , 1: 409-10.

38. De La Warr's "Relation" (1611), in Brown, Genesis of the United States , 1: 482.

39. Ralph Hamor, A True Discourse of the Present State of Virginia (1615) (Richmond, Va., 1957), p. 22.

40. William Strachey, "For the Colony in Virginea Britannia, Lawes Divine, Morall and Martiall, Etc.," in Force, ed., Tracts , 3: no. 2, pp. 16-17.

41. Brown, Genesis of the United States , 1: 248, 353-

42. S. M. Kingsbury, ed., The Records of the Virginia Company of London (Washington, D.C., 1906-35) 3: 166.

43. Kingsbury, Records 3: 116.

44. Villard, La France et les États-Unis , p. 56; United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574-1660 , 8 April 1623; William and Mary Quarterly , 1st ser., 9 ( 1900- 1901): 86; 13 (1904): 289; Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 2 (1894-95): 79, 310-11; 6 (1898-99): 241-42.

45. Warren M. Billings, ed., The Old Dominion in the Seventeenth Century (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1975), p. 34.

46. Clifford M. Lewis and Albert J. Loomie, eds., The Spanish Jesuit Mission in Virginia, 1570-1572 (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1953), pp. 138-39, 141.

47. John Pury to Sir Edwin Sandys, 14 and 16 January 1620 (Kingsbury, ed., Records , 3: 254, 256).

48. Samuel Purchas, Purchas His Pilgrimes (Glasgow, 1905-7), 19:153. This phenomenon is easily possible if the cutting includes a fruitful bud or buds from the parent vine. But the grower should remove the clusters that grow from any such buds until the vine is mature enough to sustain them. That the Virginia French apparently did not suggests that they had little experience in viticulture.

49. Ibid.

48. Samuel Purchas, Purchas His Pilgrimes (Glasgow, 1905-7), 19:153. This phenomenon is easily possible if the cutting includes a fruitful bud or buds from the parent vine. But the grower should remove the clusters that grow from any such buds until the vine is mature enough to sustain them. That the Virginia French apparently did not suggests that they had little experience in viticulture.

49. Ibid.

50. "A Declaration of the State of the Colony and Affairs in Virginia," in Force, ed., Tracts , 3: no. 5, p-15.

51. Kingsbury, ed., Records , 2: 349.

52. Ibid., 2: 102 (5 September 1622); 3:663 (9 July 1622).

51. Kingsbury, ed., Records , 2: 349.

52. Ibid., 2: 102 (5 September 1622); 3:663 (9 July 1622).

53. John Bonoeil, His Maiesties Gracious Letter to the Earle of South-Hampton . . . commanding the present setting up of Silke works, and planting of Vines in Virginia (London, 1622).

54. Kingsbury, ed., Records , 3: 663.

55. Bonoeil, His Majesties Gracious Letter , pp. 49-50.

56. Captain Butler, "Dismasking of Virginia" (1622), in Kingsbury, ed., Records , 2: 375, 384 (23, 30 April 1623).

57. Edmund S. Morgan, "The First American Boom," William and Mary Quarterly , 3d ser., 28 (1971): 169-98.

58. Kingsbury, Records , 3:647 (10 June 1622).

59. Ibid., 3:365-67 (July 1620).

60. Ibid., 4:272 (31 August 1623).

61. Ibid., 4:453 (30 January 1624).

62. Ibid., 2:349 (12 April 1623).

58. Kingsbury, Records , 3:647 (10 June 1622).

59. Ibid., 3:365-67 (July 1620).

60. Ibid., 4:272 (31 August 1623).

61. Ibid., 4:453 (30 January 1624).

62. Ibid., 2:349 (12 April 1623).

58. Kingsbury, Records , 3:647 (10 June 1622).

59. Ibid., 3:365-67 (July 1620).

60. Ibid., 4:272 (31 August 1623).

61. Ibid., 4:453 (30 January 1624).

62. Ibid., 2:349 (12 April 1623).

58. Kingsbury, Records , 3:647 (10 June 1622).

59. Ibid., 3:365-67 (July 1620).

60. Ibid., 4:272 (31 August 1623).

61. Ibid., 4:453 (30 January 1624).

62. Ibid., 2:349 (12 April 1623).

58. Kingsbury, Records , 3:647 (10 June 1622).

59. Ibid., 3:365-67 (July 1620).

60. Ibid., 4:272 (31 August 1623).

61. Ibid., 4:453 (30 January 1624).

62. Ibid., 2:349 (12 April 1623).

63. Alexander Brown, The First Republic in America (Boston, 1898), p. 562.

64. "An Answer to a Declaration of the Present State of Virginia" (1623), in Kingsbury, ed., Records , 4:142 (May 1623).

65. George Sandys to John Ferrar, March 1623 (Kingsbury, ed., Records , 4: 124).

66. Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 65 (1957): 21.

67. Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 20 (1912): 156.

68. Edward Williams, "Virginia . . . Richly and Truly Valued" (1650), in Force, ed., Tracts , 3: no. 11, pp. 16-18, writes as though all one had to do was to plant the vines; more than thirty years later the Reverend John Clayton writes in the same way ( Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 76: [1968]: 427), and so do many others throughout the latter part of the seventeenth century.

69. William Waller Hening, ed., The Statutes at Large: Being a Collection of All the Laws of Virginia (Richmond, Va., 1819-23), 1:115.

70. Ibid., 1: 135-36.

71. Ibid., 1: 161.

69. William Waller Hening, ed., The Statutes at Large: Being a Collection of All the Laws of Virginia (Richmond, Va., 1819-23), 1:115.

70. Ibid., 1: 135-36.

71. Ibid., 1: 161.

69. William Waller Hening, ed., The Statutes at Large: Being a Collection of All the Laws of Virginia (Richmond, Va., 1819-23), 1:115.

70. Ibid., 1: 135-36.

71. Ibid., 1: 161.

72. Williams, "Virginia . . . Richly and Truly Valued," in Force, ed., Tracts , 3: no. 11, p. 17.

73. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574-1660 , p. 98.

74. William Bullock, Virginia Impartially Examined (London, 1649), p. 8.

75. "A Perfect Description of Virginia" (London, 1649), in Force, ed., Tracts , 3: no. 8, p. 14.

76. Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 76 (1968): 427

77. Robert Beverley, The History and Present State of Virginia , ed. Louis B. Wright (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1947), p. 135.

78. Thomas Glover, "An Account of Virginia," in Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society , vol. 11 (1676; reprint, Oxford, 1904), pp. 15-16.

79. This idea originated with Giovanni da Verrazzano, who also thought that he had found Arcadia on the east coast of North America (Boies Penrose, Travel and Discovery in the Renaissance, 1420-1620 [Cambridge, Mass., 1952], p. 147).

80. Williams, "Virginia . . . Richly and Truly Valed," in Force, ed., Tracts , 3: no. 11, pp. 16-18, 28.

81. Hening, ed., Statutes at Large , 1: 470.

82. Lyman Carrier, Agriculture in Virginia, 1607-1699 (Williamsburg, Va., 1957), p. 24.

83. John Clayton to Boyle, June 1687, Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 77 (1959): 427.

84. Villard, La France et les États-Unis , p. 59.

85. Conway Zirkle, "John Clayton and Our Colonial Botany," Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 67 (1959): 286.

86. Winkler et al., General Viticulture , rev. ed., p. 445.

87. J. R. McGrew, "Black Rot," American Wine Society Journal 9 (1977): 4.

88. It remains a question, however, why the European vine should succumb to, and certain American vines successfully resist, the phylloxera. Structurally, the vines in question are not all that different. The pathology is still under investigation. See Ordish, Great Wine Blight , pp. 106, 108, 184.

89. Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York, 1898), p. 13.

90. E.g., S. F. Field, The American Drink Book (New York, 1953), p. 242.

91. Alexander Young, Chronicles of the Pilgrim Fathers , p. 165.

92. Edward Winslow, "Good News from New England," in Young, Chronicles , pp. 231, 234.

93. Justin Winsor, ed., Narrative and Critical History of America (Boston, 1884-89), 3: 61n.

94. Alexander Young, Chronicles of the First Planters of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay, from 1623 to 1636 (Boston, 1846), pp. 42, 43.

95. "New-England's Plantation" (1630), in Force, ed., Tracts , 1: no. 12, p. 7; Bailey, Evolution of Our Native Fruits , p. 12.

96. Samuel Eliot Morison, Builders of the Bay Colony (Boston, 1930), pp. 246, 247.

97. A. Holmes, "Memoir of the French Protestants," Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society, 3d ser., vol. 2 (183o): 29-30; J. L. Bishop, History of American Manufactures (Philadelphia, 1866), 1: 272; Charles W. Baird, History of the Huguenot Emigration to America (New York, 1885), 2: 297-302.

98. Holmes, "Memoir," p. 80.

99. Carl R. Woodward, Plantation in Yankeeland (Wickford, R.I., 1971), pp. 50-52.

100. Lydia Sigourney, "On Visiting a Vine among the Ruins of the French Fort at Oxford, Massachusetts," Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society, 3d ser., vol. 2 (1830): 82.

101. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1661-68 , p. 150.

102. William Hubbard, General History of New England , Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society, 2d ser., vols. 5-6 (1815): 23.

103. Bishop, History of American Manufactures , 1: 270.

104. U. P. Hedrick, History of Horticulture in America to 1860 (New York, 1950), p. 59.

105. Jasper Danckaerts, Journal, 1679-1680 , ed. Bartlett Burleigh James and J. Franklin Jameson (New York, 1913), p. 59.

106. Israel Acrelius, History of New Sweden , Memoirs of the Historical Society of Pennsylvania, vol. 11 (1874): 37'

107. Bishop, History of American Manufactures , 1: 273.

108. Albert C. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania, West New Jersey, and Delaware (New York, 1912), p. 228.

109. G. D. Scull, "Biographical Notice of Doctor Daniel Coxe, of London," Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography 7 (1883): 328.

110. Alice B. Lockwood, Gardens of Colony and State (New York, 1931-34), 1: 333.

111. Myers, Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 398.

112. M.D. Learned, The Life of Francis Daniel Pastorius (New York, 1908), p. 160; Germantown Crier 34 (1982): 32-33.

113. William Hepworth Dixon, William Penn , new ed. (London, 1872), p. 304

114. J. R. McGrew, "Brief History of Winemaking in Maryland," American Wine Society Journal 9 (1977): 60. The evidence for this vineyard is unclear, and though it seems probable that a vineyard was planned for the site, it is doubtful that it was in fact planted. The comments on its wine, then, if not wholly fanciful, are surely exaggerated.

115. Hedrick, History of Horticulture in America , p. 104.

116. Calvert Papers, Number One , Maryland Historical Society Publications, no. 28 (Baltimore, 1889), pp. 275,296.

117. North Carolina, The Colonial Records of North Carolina , ed. William L. Saunders (Raleigh, N.C., 1886-90), 1:51.

118. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1661-1668 , p. 159.

119. Lewis Cecil Gray, History of Agriculture in the Southern United States to 1860 (Washington, D.C., 1933), 1: 44.

120. Thomas Woodward to the proprietors, 2 June 1665, in United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1661-1668 , p. 304.

121. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1675-76 , and Supplement , p. 145.

122. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1669-74 , p. 34.

123. South Carolina Historical Society, The Shafiesbury Papers and Other Records Relating to Carolina , Collections of the South Carolina Historical Society, vol. 5 (Charleston, 1897): 175-76.

124. Ibid., 382.

123. South Carolina Historical Society, The Shafiesbury Papers and Other Records Relating to Carolina , Collections of the South Carolina Historical Society, vol. 5 (Charleston, 1897): 175-76.

124. Ibid., 382.

125. St. Julien Childs, Malaria and Colonization in the Carolina Low Country (Baltimore, 1940), p. 157.

126. South Carolina Historical Society, Shaftesbury Papers , 5: 445.

127. Alexander Salley, ed., Records in the British Public Record Office Relating to South Carolina, 1663-1690 (Atlanta, 1928-29), 1: 59.

128. Childs, Malaria and Colonization , p. 212.

129. St. Julien Childs, "The Petit-Guérard Colony," South Carolina Historical and Genealogical Magazine 43 (1942): 1-17; Arthur H. Hirsch, The Huguenots of Colonial South Carolina (Durham, N.C., 1928).

130. Thomas Ashe, "Carolina, or a Description of the Present State of that Country" (1682), in Alexander Salley, ed., Narratives of Early Carolina, 1650-1708 (New York, 1911), p. 144.

131. Salley, ed., Narratives of Early Carolina , pp. 174-75.

132. Letter of Thomas Newe, 17 May 1682 (Salley, ed., Narratives of Early Carolina , p. 182.)

133. Hirsch, Huguenots , p. 205.

134. South Carolina, The Statutes at Large of South Carolina , Thomas Cooper, ed. (Columbia, S.C., 1836-40), 2: 78.

135. Hirsch, Huguenots , p. 205.

136. Beverley, History and Present State of Virginia , p. 134.

137. Salley, ed., Narratives of Early Carolina , p. 310.

138. Ibid., p. 117.

137. Salley, ed., Narratives of Early Carolina , p. 310.

138. Ibid., p. 117.

139. Robert Bolling, "Pieces concerning Vineyards" (MS, Huntington Library), p. 118.

140. Sir Robert Montgomery, "Discourse concerning the Designed Establishment of a New Colony," in Force, ed., Tracts , 1: no. 7.

141. John Oldmixon, The British Empire in America (1741; reprint, New York, 1969), 1: 517.

142. John Lawson, A New Voyage to Carolina (1709), ed. H. T. Lefler (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1967), p. 118.

143. Frank Schoonmaker and Tom Marvel, American Wines (New York, 1941), pp. 162-67.

1. Georgia, Colonial Records of Georgia , ed. Allen D. Candler (Atlanta, 1904-16), 1: 11.

2. Benjamin Martyn, "Reasons for Establishing the Colony of Georgia" (London, 1733), in Charles C. Jones, The Dead Towns of Georgia (Savannah, 1878), p. 45.

3. Kenneth Coleman, Colonial Georgia (New York, 1976), p. 112.

4. "A New Voyage to Georgia, by a Young Gentleman," 2d ed. (1737), Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. 2 (1842): 40-41.

5. Patrick Tailfer et al., A True and Historical Narrative of the Colony of Georgia (1741), ed. Clarence L. Ver Steeg (Athens, Ga., 1960), p. 60.

6. Colonial Records of Georgia , 1: 96.

7. James W. Holland, "The Beginning of Public Agricultural Experimentation in America: The Trustees' Garden in Georgia," Agricultural History 12 (1938): 278.

8. Colonial Records of Georgia , 3: 59.

9. Colonial Records of Georgia , 3: 126, 153, 156, 178.

10. John Perceval, 1st earl of Egmont, Diary , in Manuscripts of the Earl of Egmont (London, 1920-23), 2:370 (16 March 1737).

11. Colonial Records of Georgia , 22, part 2: 113 (12 March 1739).

12. Colonial Records of Georgia , 22, part 2:144 (19 May 1739).

13. Holland, "The Trustees' Garden in Georgia," 278-83.

14. Mills Lane, ed., General Oglethorpe's Georgia (Savannah, 1975), 1: 132.

15. Ibid., 1: 213.

16. Ibid., 1: 315.

17. Ibid., 1: 315-16.

14. Mills Lane, ed., General Oglethorpe's Georgia (Savannah, 1975), 1: 132.

15. Ibid., 1: 213.

16. Ibid., 1: 315.

17. Ibid., 1: 315-16.

14. Mills Lane, ed., General Oglethorpe's Georgia (Savannah, 1975), 1: 132.

15. Ibid., 1: 213.

16. Ibid., 1: 315.

17. Ibid., 1: 315-16.

14. Mills Lane, ed., General Oglethorpe's Georgia (Savannah, 1975), 1: 132.

15. Ibid., 1: 213.

16. Ibid., 1: 315.

17. Ibid., 1: 315-16.

18. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5: 63.

19. William Stephens, Journal , ed. E. Merton Coulter (Athens, Ga., 1958-59), 2:197 (16 February 1745).

20. Colonial Records of Georgia , 7: 101 (4 February 1755).

21. Edith D. Johnston, "Dr. William Houston, Botanist," Georgia Historical Quarterly 25 (1941): 339.

22. U. P. Hedrick, History of Horticulture in America to 1860 (New York, 1950), p. 136.

23. Francis Moore, A Voyage to Georgia (London, 1744), in Trevor R. Reese, Our First Visit in America (Savannah, 1974), p. 120.

24. John Wesley, Journal , ed. Nehemiah Curnock (London, 1909), 1: 402 (2 December 1737).

25. Tailfer et al., True and Historical Narrative of the Colony of Georgia , ed. Ver Steeg, p. 15.

26. Colonial Records of Georgia , 22, part 1: 251, 254 (19 September 1738); 23:489 (12 February 1743).

27. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:91 (10 January 1739).

28. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:243 (2 November 1739).

29. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:347 (9 May 1740).

30. James Carteret to Lord Egmont, 22 April 1741, in Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:500.

31. Stephens, Journal , 2:71 (14 February 1744).

32. Mr. Christie to Lord Egmont, 6 March 1741, in Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:461-62.

33. For Stephens, see E. Merton Coulter's introduction to Stephens' Journal .

34. Journal of William Stephens, 1737-1740 , vol. 4 of Colonial Records of Georgia , p. 44 (6 December 1737).

35. Ibid., pp. 43-44.

34. Journal of William Stephens, 1737-1740 , vol. 4 of Colonial Records of Georgia , p. 44 (6 December 1737).

35. Ibid., pp. 43-44.

36. He arrived on 10 July 1733: see E. Merton Coulter and Albert B. Saye, A List of the Early Settlers of Georgia (Athens, Ga., 1949), p. 71.

37. Colonial Records of Georgia , 23:156.

38. John Brownfield to trustees, 19 June 1737, in Colonial Records of Georgia , 21: 483-84.

39. De Lyon to council, 12 April 1738, in Colonial Records of Georgia , 2: 228.

40. Colonial Records of Georgia , 2: 241; 22, part 2:113 (12 March 1739).

41. Colonial Records of Georgia , 22, part 1: 327.

42. Tailfer et al., True and Historical Narrative of the Colony of Georgia , ed. Ver Steeg, pp. 61-62.

43. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1738 , p. 229.

44. Colonial Records of Georgia , 23:157 (1 December 1741).

45. Tailfer et al., True and Historical Narrative of the Colony of Georgia , ed. Vet Steeg, p. 62.

46. Colonial Records of Georgia , 4, supplement: 135 (30 April 1741).

47. Coulter and Saye, List of Early Settlers , p. 91.

48. Richard Lawley to Lord Egmont, 6 February 1741, in Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:45 1.

49. Colonial Records of Georgia , 6:3 (12 October 1741).

50. See Malcolm H. Stern, "New Light on the Jewish Settlement in Savannah," , American Jewish Historical Quarterly 52 (1962-63): 195.

51. Lane, Oglethorpe's Georgia , pp. 126, 302.

52. Colonial Records of Georgia , 3: 198.

53. Ibid., 4:330-31 (4 May 1739).

54. Ibid., 4:515 (18 February 1740).

52. Colonial Records of Georgia , 3: 198.

53. Ibid., 4:330-31 (4 May 1739).

54. Ibid., 4:515 (18 February 1740).

52. Colonial Records of Georgia , 3: 198.

53. Ibid., 4:330-31 (4 May 1739).

54. Ibid., 4:515 (18 February 1740).

55. William Stephens, "A State of the Province of Georgia," Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. 2 (1842): 76.

56. Egmont, Diary , 3:112-13 (5 February 1740).

57. Petition of 29 December 1740, in Lane, Oglethorpe's Georgia , 2: 522.

58. Colonial Records of Georgia , 4:653 (1 September 1740).

59. Stephens, "State of the Province of Georgia," p. 71.

60. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:500 (22 April 1741).

61. Ibid., 22, part 2:490 (15 January 1741).

62. Ibid., 4, supplement: 155 (29 May 1741).

63. Ibid., 4, supplement: 165 (12 June 1741).

64. Ibid., 4, supplement: 193 (16 July 1741). James Balleu, or Bailleu, or Baillou, arrived in Georgia in 1734, and was a storekeeper in 1741. He was also identified as a "vine dresser and hatter" (Coulter and Saye, List of Early Settlers , p.3).

65. Ibid., 23:157 (1 December 1741).

66. Ibid., 23:138 (29 October 1741).

60. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:500 (22 April 1741).

61. Ibid., 22, part 2:490 (15 January 1741).

62. Ibid., 4, supplement: 155 (29 May 1741).

63. Ibid., 4, supplement: 165 (12 June 1741).

64. Ibid., 4, supplement: 193 (16 July 1741). James Balleu, or Bailleu, or Baillou, arrived in Georgia in 1734, and was a storekeeper in 1741. He was also identified as a "vine dresser and hatter" (Coulter and Saye, List of Early Settlers , p.3).

65. Ibid., 23:157 (1 December 1741).

66. Ibid., 23:138 (29 October 1741).

60. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:500 (22 April 1741).

61. Ibid., 22, part 2:490 (15 January 1741).

62. Ibid., 4, supplement: 155 (29 May 1741).

63. Ibid., 4, supplement: 165 (12 June 1741).

64. Ibid., 4, supplement: 193 (16 July 1741). James Balleu, or Bailleu, or Baillou, arrived in Georgia in 1734, and was a storekeeper in 1741. He was also identified as a "vine dresser and hatter" (Coulter and Saye, List of Early Settlers , p.3).

65. Ibid., 23:157 (1 December 1741).

66. Ibid., 23:138 (29 October 1741).

60. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:500 (22 April 1741).

61. Ibid., 22, part 2:490 (15 January 1741).

62. Ibid., 4, supplement: 155 (29 May 1741).

63. Ibid., 4, supplement: 165 (12 June 1741).

64. Ibid., 4, supplement: 193 (16 July 1741). James Balleu, or Bailleu, or Baillou, arrived in Georgia in 1734, and was a storekeeper in 1741. He was also identified as a "vine dresser and hatter" (Coulter and Saye, List of Early Settlers , p.3).

65. Ibid., 23:157 (1 December 1741).

66. Ibid., 23:138 (29 October 1741).

60. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:500 (22 April 1741).

61. Ibid., 22, part 2:490 (15 January 1741).

62. Ibid., 4, supplement: 155 (29 May 1741).

63. Ibid., 4, supplement: 165 (12 June 1741).

64. Ibid., 4, supplement: 193 (16 July 1741). James Balleu, or Bailleu, or Baillou, arrived in Georgia in 1734, and was a storekeeper in 1741. He was also identified as a "vine dresser and hatter" (Coulter and Saye, List of Early Settlers , p.3).

65. Ibid., 23:157 (1 December 1741).

66. Ibid., 23:138 (29 October 1741).

60. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:500 (22 April 1741).

61. Ibid., 22, part 2:490 (15 January 1741).

62. Ibid., 4, supplement: 155 (29 May 1741).

63. Ibid., 4, supplement: 165 (12 June 1741).

64. Ibid., 4, supplement: 193 (16 July 1741). James Balleu, or Bailleu, or Baillou, arrived in Georgia in 1734, and was a storekeeper in 1741. He was also identified as a "vine dresser and hatter" (Coulter and Saye, List of Early Settlers , p.3).

65. Ibid., 23:157 (1 December 1741).

66. Ibid., 23:138 (29 October 1741).

60. Colonial Records of Georgia , 5:500 (22 April 1741).

61. Ibid., 22, part 2:490 (15 January 1741).

62. Ibid., 4, supplement: 155 (29 May 1741).

63. Ibid., 4, supplement: 165 (12 June 1741).

64. Ibid., 4, supplement: 193 (16 July 1741). James Balleu, or Bailleu, or Baillou, arrived in Georgia in 1734, and was a storekeeper in 1741. He was also identified as a "vine dresser and hatter" (Coulter and Saye, List of Early Settlers , p.3).

65. Ibid., 23:157 (1 December 1741).

66. Ibid., 23:138 (29 October 1741).

67. Edward Martyn, "An Impartial Inquiry into the State and Utility of the Province of Georgia" (1741), Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. 1 (1840): 164.

68. Colonial Records of Georgia , 4:537 (21 March 1740). "Bewlie" is the French Beau Lieu transformed by English mouths.

69. Stephens, Journal , 1:42, 197-98 (13 February 1742, 26 April 1743).

70. Ibid., 1:67 (20 April 1742); 2:506 (17 August 1743).

71. Ibid., 1:195-96, 221-22 (20 April, 30 June 1743); 2:5-6 (17 August 1743).

72. Ibid., 1:194 (26 April 1743).

73. Ibid., 2:185-86 (8 January 1745).

74. Ibid., 2:197 (16 February 1745).

69. Stephens, Journal , 1:42, 197-98 (13 February 1742, 26 April 1743).

70. Ibid., 1:67 (20 April 1742); 2:506 (17 August 1743).

71. Ibid., 1:195-96, 221-22 (20 April, 30 June 1743); 2:5-6 (17 August 1743).

72. Ibid., 1:194 (26 April 1743).

73. Ibid., 2:185-86 (8 January 1745).

74. Ibid., 2:197 (16 February 1745).

69. Stephens, Journal , 1:42, 197-98 (13 February 1742, 26 April 1743).

70. Ibid., 1:67 (20 April 1742); 2:506 (17 August 1743).

71. Ibid., 1:195-96, 221-22 (20 April, 30 June 1743); 2:5-6 (17 August 1743).

72. Ibid., 1:194 (26 April 1743).

73. Ibid., 2:185-86 (8 January 1745).

74. Ibid., 2:197 (16 February 1745).

69. Stephens, Journal , 1:42, 197-98 (13 February 1742, 26 April 1743).

70. Ibid., 1:67 (20 April 1742); 2:506 (17 August 1743).

71. Ibid., 1:195-96, 221-22 (20 April, 30 June 1743); 2:5-6 (17 August 1743).

72. Ibid., 1:194 (26 April 1743).

73. Ibid., 2:185-86 (8 January 1745).

74. Ibid., 2:197 (16 February 1745).

69. Stephens, Journal , 1:42, 197-98 (13 February 1742, 26 April 1743).

70. Ibid., 1:67 (20 April 1742); 2:506 (17 August 1743).

71. Ibid., 1:195-96, 221-22 (20 April, 30 June 1743); 2:5-6 (17 August 1743).

72. Ibid., 1:194 (26 April 1743).

73. Ibid., 2:185-86 (8 January 1745).

74. Ibid., 2:197 (16 February 1745).

69. Stephens, Journal , 1:42, 197-98 (13 February 1742, 26 April 1743).

70. Ibid., 1:67 (20 April 1742); 2:506 (17 August 1743).

71. Ibid., 1:195-96, 221-22 (20 April, 30 June 1743); 2:5-6 (17 August 1743).

72. Ibid., 1:194 (26 April 1743).

73. Ibid., 2:185-86 (8 January 1745).

74. Ibid., 2:197 (16 February 1745).

75. Colonial Records of Georgia , 24:227 (29 February 1744).

76. Stephens, Journal , 2:124 (14 July 1744).

77. Ibid., 2: 125.

76. Stephens, Journal , 2:124 (14 July 1744).

77. Ibid., 2: 125.

78. Colonial Records of Georgia , 24: 371 (19 March 1745).

79. Stephens, Journal , 2:211 (29 March 1745).

80. Ibid., 2:223-24 (5 July 1745).

79. Stephens, Journal , 2:211 (29 March 1745).

80. Ibid., 2:223-24 (5 July 1745).

81. Johann Martin Bolzius, "Bolzius Answers a Questionnaire," William and Mary Quarterly , 3d ser., 24 (1957): 242-43.

82. Royal Society of Arts, London, MS Guard Books, 12:92.

83. John William De Brahm, History of the Province of Georgia (Wormsloe, Ga., 1849), p. 22.

84. William Bartram, Travels , ed. Francis Harper (New Haven, 1958), p. 291.

1. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1734-35 , pp. 290-91 (9 November 1734).

2. Johann David Schoepf, Travels in the Confederation, 1783-1784 (Philadelphia, 1911), 2: 184-85.

3. Journal of the Commons House of Assembly, 1742-1744 , ed. J. H. Easterby, in Colonial Records of South Carolina (Columbia, S.C., 1954), p. 553.

4. Journal of the Commons House of Assembly, 1748 , ed. J. H. Easterby, in Colonial Records of South Carolina (Columbia, S.C., 1961), pp. 70, 105, 383 (26 February, 3 March, and 28 June 1748).

5. Royal Society of Arts, Journal Book, 24:153-55.

6. Royal Society of Arts, Guard Books, 5:20 July 1760; Royal Society of Arts, Minutes of Committee on Colonies and Trade, 1: 30 June 1756.

7. Robert Hilldrup, "A Campaign to Promote the Prosperity of Colonial Virginia," Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 67 (1959): 423.

8. Henry Laurens, The Papers of Henry Laurens , ed. Philip M. Hamer (Columbia, S.C., 1968-81), 4:336 (7 July 1764).

9. David Ramsay, History of South-Carolina (Charleston, 1809), 1: 228.

10. Laurens, Papers , ed. Philip M. Hamer, 7:362 (9 June 1772)

11. "Journal of Josiah Quincy, 1773," Proceedings of the Massachusetts Historical Society 49 (1915-16): 453 (22 March 1773).

12. Travels , pp. 213, 56.

13. Lewis Cecil Gray, History of Agriculture in the Southern United States to 1860 (Washington, D.C., 1933), 1: 114.

14. E. P. Panagopoulos, "The Background of the Greek Settlers in the New Smyrna Colony," Florida Historical Quarterly 35 (1956): 95-97.

15. On Turnbull and New Smyrna, see Carita Doggett, Dr. Andrew Turnbull and the New Smyrna Colony [Jacksonville? 1919]; and E. P. Panagopoulos, New Smyrna: An Eighteenth-Century Greek Odyssey (Gainesville, Fla., 1966).

16. Schoepf, Travels in the Confederation , 2:235-36.

17. John Lawson, A New Voyage to Carolina , ed. H. T. Lefler (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1967), p. 108.

18. Ibid., pp. 117-18.

17. John Lawson, A New Voyage to Carolina , ed. H. T. Lefler (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1967), p. 108.

18. Ibid., pp. 117-18.

19. North Carolina, The Colonial Records of North Carolina , ed. William L. Saunders (Raleigh, N.C., 1886-90) 4: 6, 16 (12 December 1734, 12 September 1735).

20. Ibid., 4:919 (1749).

21. Ibid., 5:316 (4 January 1755).

19. North Carolina, The Colonial Records of North Carolina , ed. William L. Saunders (Raleigh, N.C., 1886-90) 4: 6, 16 (12 December 1734, 12 September 1735).

20. Ibid., 4:919 (1749).

21. Ibid., 5:316 (4 January 1755).

19. North Carolina, The Colonial Records of North Carolina , ed. William L. Saunders (Raleigh, N.C., 1886-90) 4: 6, 16 (12 December 1734, 12 September 1735).

20. Ibid., 4:919 (1749).

21. Ibid., 5:316 (4 January 1755).

22. Clarence Gohdes, Scuppernong: North Carolina's Grape and Its Wines (Durham, N.C., 1982), p. 26n; Adelaide L. Fries, ed., Records of the Moravians in North Carolina (Raleigh, N.C., 1922-69), 1: 180; 3: 1085, 1189'

23. U. P. Hedrick, The Grapes of New York (Albany, N.Y., 1908), p. 38.

24. Robert Beverley, The History and Present State of Virginia , ed. Louis B. Wright (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1947), pp. 133, 135.

25. Ibid., pp. 315-16.

24. Robert Beverley, The History and Present State of Virginia , ed. Louis B. Wright (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1947), pp. 133, 135.

25. Ibid., pp. 315-16.

26. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1708-9 , p. 565

27. John Fontaine, The Journal of John Fontaine , ed. Edward Porter Alexander (Williamsburg, Va., 1972), p. 86 (15 November 1715).

28. Hugh Jones, The Present State of Virginia (1724), ed. Richard L. Morton (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1956), p. 14o.

29. Fontaine, Journal , p. 106.

30. Jones, Present State of Virginia , p. 91.

31. Robert Beverley, History of Virginia (1722; reprint, Richmond, Va., 1855), P. 260.

32. Jones, Present State of Virginia , p. 140.

33. Robert Bolling, Virginia Gazette , 24 February 1773.

34. Jones, Present State of Virginia , p. 140.

35. William Byrd, Correspondence of the Three William Byrds of Westover, Virginia, 1664-1776 , ed. Marion Tinling (Charlottesville, 1977), 1: 380, 410 (c. 15 July 1728, 25 June 1729); Pierre Marambaud, William Byrd of Westover, 1674-1744 (Charlottesville, 1971 ), p. 159.

36. Correspondence of the Three William Byrds , ed. Tinling, 1: 426, 427 (c. 1730?); 409 (25 June 1729); Westover MSS, Virginia Historical Society.

37. Correspondence of the Three William Byrds , ed. Tinling, 2:493 (18 July 1736).

38. Ibid., 2: 513 (31 May 1737).

39. Ibid., 2: 518 (27 June 1737).

37. Correspondence of the Three William Byrds , ed. Tinling, 2:493 (18 July 1736).

38. Ibid., 2: 513 (31 May 1737).

39. Ibid., 2: 518 (27 June 1737).

37. Correspondence of the Three William Byrds , ed. Tinling, 2:493 (18 July 1736).

38. Ibid., 2: 513 (31 May 1737).

39. Ibid., 2: 518 (27 June 1737).

40. Pamela C. Copeland and Richard K. Macmaster, The Five George Masons (Charlottesville, 1975), p. 102.

41. William and Mary Quarterly , 1st ser., 16 (1907-8): 23.

42. William Waller Hening, ed., The Statutes at Large (Richmond, Va., 1809-23), 7:567 (30 October 1760).

43. Ibid., 7:568-70

44. Hilldrup, ''Campaign to Promote the Prosperity of Colonial Virginia," p. 410.

45. Ibid., p. 421.

46. Ibid., p. 4 t 5.

42. William Waller Hening, ed., The Statutes at Large (Richmond, Va., 1809-23), 7:567 (30 October 1760).

43. Ibid., 7:568-70

44. Hilldrup, ''Campaign to Promote the Prosperity of Colonial Virginia," p. 410.

45. Ibid., p. 421.

46. Ibid., p. 4 t 5.

42. William Waller Hening, ed., The Statutes at Large (Richmond, Va., 1809-23), 7:567 (30 October 1760).

43. Ibid., 7:568-70

44. Hilldrup, ''Campaign to Promote the Prosperity of Colonial Virginia," p. 410.

45. Ibid., p. 421.

46. Ibid., p. 4 t 5.

42. William Waller Hening, ed., The Statutes at Large (Richmond, Va., 1809-23), 7:567 (30 October 1760).

43. Ibid., 7:568-70

44. Hilldrup, ''Campaign to Promote the Prosperity of Colonial Virginia," p. 410.

45. Ibid., p. 421.

46. Ibid., p. 4 t 5.

42. William Waller Hening, ed., The Statutes at Large (Richmond, Va., 1809-23), 7:567 (30 October 1760).

43. Ibid., 7:568-70

44. Hilldrup, ''Campaign to Promote the Prosperity of Colonial Virginia," p. 410.

45. Ibid., p. 421.

46. Ibid., p. 4 t 5.

47. Robert Dossie, Memoirs of Agriculture (London, 1768-82), 1: 242. Dossie says that one of Carter's wines was "the product of vines brought from Europe."

48. Hilldrup, "Campaign to Promote the Prosperity of Colonial Virginia," p. 423.

49. Landon Carter, The Diary of Colonel Landon Carter of Sabine Hall, 1752-1778 , ed. Jack P. Green (Charlottesville, 1965), 2:1134 (4 October 1777).

50. Virginia, Journals of the House of Burgesses of Virginia , ed. John Pendleton Kennedy, 12 (Richmond, Va., 1906): 17 (25 May 1769).

51. Robert Bolling, "Incitation to Vineplanting" (MS, Huntington Library), pp. 112-14.

52. Hening, Statutes at Large , 8: 364-66.

53. A mile east of town on the old Yorktown Road, near Fort Magruder. The site is now identified by a state historical marker.

54. Virginia, Journals of the House of Burgesses , 12:240 (13 March 1772).

55. Ibid., 12: 265:23 March 1772; Virginia, Legislative Journals of the Council of Colonial Virginia , ed. H. R. McIlwaine (Richmond, Va., 1918-19), 1461 (25 March 1772)

54. Virginia, Journals of the House of Burgesses , 12:240 (13 March 1772).

55. Ibid., 12: 265:23 March 1772; Virginia, Legislative Journals of the Council of Colonial Virginia , ed. H. R. McIlwaine (Richmond, Va., 1918-19), 1461 (25 March 1772)

56. Purdie and Dixon's Virginia Gazette , 20 June 1771-23 March 1776.

57. Rind's Virginia Gazette , 27 May 1773.

58. "On the night of May 4, 1774, a frost, caused by a northwest wind, ruined the corn and the wheat just above the ground, froze the small oak and other young trees, and caused all other trees to shed their leaves, which did not bud again until the following year. It was horrible to see the woods entirely stripped of leaves in summer, as if it had been midwinter. The bunches of grapes were already quite large, but they froze with the new crop. The old part of the vine, from which the branches had sprung, suffered too. But the vines put out new shoots, which produced about half the amount of grapes of the preceding years, and ripened at the usual season in the woods and gardens" (Philip Mazzei, Memoirs, 1730-1816 , trans. Howard R. Marraro [New York, 1942], p. 207).

59. Virginia Journals of the House of Burgesses of Virginia , 13 (1905): 111 (19 May 1774).

60. Dixon and Hunter's Virginia Gazette , 24 June 1775.

61. Hening, Statutes at Large , 9:239 (October 1776).

62. Purdie's Virginia Gazette , 28 February 1777.

63. William and Mary Quarterly , 1st ser., 16 (1907-8): 32, 163. The sale was made in 1785.

64. Robert Bolling, "A Sketch of Vine Culture, for Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia and the Carolinas" (MS, c. 1774, Huntington Library), p. 36.

65. A complete copy of Bolling's MS, with what are probably his own corrections, is in the Huntington Library. A copy made for William Prince by Bolling's son, parts of which were published in the American Farmer in 1829 and 1830, is in the Prince Papers, National Agricultural Library.

66. Bolling, "Sketch," pp. 36, 41.

67. J. R. McGrew, "An Historical View of Early-Day Winemaking," Wines and Vines 57 (t976): 26.

68. Bolling, "Sketch," pp. 39-40, 110.

69. Virginia, Legislative Journals of the Council of Colonial Virginia , 3:1482-83 (11-12 March 1773).

70. Virginia Gazette , 11 March 1773.

71. Purdie and Dixon's Virginia Gazette , 29 July 1773.

72. Ibid.

71. Purdie and Dixon's Virginia Gazette , 29 July 1773.

72. Ibid.

73. Purdie and Dixon's Virginia Gazette , 2 September 1773.

74. Robert Bolling, "Vintage of Parnassus," in "Pieces concerning Vineyards and Their Establishment in Virginia" (MS, Huntington Library), pp. 113, 122.

75. Bolling, "Sketch," p. 109.

76. Bolling, MS, Huntington Library.

77. American Farmer , 20 February 1829, p. 387.

78. Estave drifted to Georgia after the Revolution, where he intended to cultivate vines and where he was remembered as saying that "he would cultivate the native vines of any country, preferably to exotics" (Thomas McCall, American Farmer , 11 February 1825, p. 369).

79. On Mazzei, see Richard Cecil Garlick, Philip Mazzei, Friend of Jefferson (Baltimore, 1933); Philip Mazzei, My Lift and Wanderings , trans. S. Eugene Scalia, ed. Margherita Marchione (Morristown, N.J., 1980); Giovanni E. Schiavo, Philip Mazzei (New York, 1951).

80. Garlick, Mazzei , pp. 27-29.

81. Garlick, Mazzei , pp. 32-39; Rind's Virginia Gazette , 2 December 1773.

82. Mazzei, My Life and Wanderings , p. 204.

83. Garlick, Mazzei , pp. 41-42.

84. Mazzei, My Life and Wanderings , p. 208.

85. Garlick, Mazzei , pp. 43-47.

86. Ibid., p. 52.

85. Garlick, Mazzei , pp. 43-47.

86. Ibid., p. 52.

87. The Papers of Thomas Jefferson , ed. Julian P. Boyd (Princeton, 195o-), 1: 158.

88. Purdie and Dixon's Virginia Gazette , 28 July 1774.

89. Philip Mazzei, Researches on the United States , trans. Constance D. Sherman (Charlottesville, 1976), pp. 243-44.

90. Jefferson to Gallatin, 25 January 1793, in Garlick, Mazzei , p. 53.

91. Mazzei, Researches , pp. 243-44.

92. R. de Treville Lawrence, Sr., ed., Jefferson and Wine (The Plains, Va., 1976), p. 15.

93. Mazzei, Researches , p. 245.

94. Mazzei, My Life , p. 212.

95. Ibid., p. 212.

94. Mazzei, My Life , p. 212.

95. Ibid., p. 212.

96. Schiavo, Mazzei , p. 177; Mazzei, Researches , p. 245.

97. My Life , p. 212.

98. Lawrence, ed., Jefferson and Wine , p. 14.

99. Jefferson to Gallatin, 25 January 1793, in Garlick, Mazzei , p. 53.

100. Edwin Morris Betts, ed., Thomas Jefferson's Garden Book, 1766-1824 (Philadelphia, 1944), pp. 52-54 (6 April 1774).

101. The Diaries of George Washington , ed. Donald Jackson and Dorothy Twohig (Charlottesville, 1976-79), 2:52 (11 April 1768).

102. The Writings of George Washington , ed. John C. Fitzpatrick (Washington, D.C., 1938), 27:55 (Washington to François Barbé-Marbois, 9 July 1783).

103. Washington, Diaries , 3: 73, 80.

104. Dixon's Virginia Gazette , 10 June 1775; Virginia Gazette , 10 June 1775.

105. Bolling to Pleasants, 26 February 1775 (MS, Huntington Library).

106. Southern Planter 36 (1875): 655.

107. The Monticello Grape Growers Cooperative was organized in 1934 (Frank Schoonmaker and Tom Marvel, American Wines [New York, 1941], p. 184).

1. American Farmer , 9 August 1822, p. 157; 22 December 1826, p. 318.

2. Governor Sharpe to Lord Baltimore, 15 June 1767 (Maryland Historical Society, Archives of Maryland , ed. William Hand Browne et al. [Baltimore, 1895]), 14: 402.

3. Maryland Historical Magazine 32 (1937): 213n.

4. J. R. McGrew, "Winemaking in Maryland," American Wine Society,Journal 9 (1977): 61. The Carroll family once again maintains a vineyard in Maryland ( Wines and Fines 55 [August 1974]: 24). One of the native vines planted in the eighteenth century in the Carroll vineyard is still alive (J. R. McGrew, "Some Grape and Wine Episodes in Maryland" [MS, 1986]).

5. U. P. Hedrick, History of Horticulture in America to 1860 (New York, 1950), p. 113.

6. J. R. McGrew, "The Alexander Grape," American Wine Society Journal 8 (1976): 20.

7. Ibid.

6. J. R. McGrew, "The Alexander Grape," American Wine Society Journal 8 (1976): 20.

7. Ibid.

8. Andrew Burnaby, Travels through the Middle Settlements in North America (London, 1798), p. 55.

9. Maryland Historical Society, Archives of Maryland , 14: 20.

10. Having been a delegate to the Albany Congress in 1754 along with Benjamin Franklin, Tasker may have learned of the interesting new grape found near Philadelphia from Franklin, who was attentive to such matters (information from Dr. J. R. McGrew).

11. Gottlieb Mittelberger, Journey to Pennsylvania , ed. and trans. Oscar Handlin and John Clive (Cambridge, Mass., 1960), pp. 55, 77.

12. Franklin to the Abbé André Morellet, in Morellet, Mémoires (Paris, 1823), 1: 303.

13. Reprinted in The Papers of Benjamin Franklin , ed. Leonard W. Labaree et al. (New Haven, 196o-), 2:365-67.

14. See Ibid., 12 (1968): 4-7. For Hill's directions, see above, p. 70.

15. Ibid., 11 (1967): 183 (Benjamin Gale to Peter Collinson, 10 May 1754).

13. Reprinted in The Papers of Benjamin Franklin , ed. Leonard W. Labaree et al. (New Haven, 196o-), 2:365-67.

14. See Ibid., 12 (1968): 4-7. For Hill's directions, see above, p. 70.

15. Ibid., 11 (1967): 183 (Benjamin Gale to Peter Collinson, 10 May 1754).

13. Reprinted in The Papers of Benjamin Franklin , ed. Leonard W. Labaree et al. (New Haven, 196o-), 2:365-67.

14. See Ibid., 12 (1968): 4-7. For Hill's directions, see above, p. 70.

15. Ibid., 11 (1967): 183 (Benjamin Gale to Peter Collinson, 10 May 1754).

16. John Adams, Diary and Autobiography of John Adams , ed. Lyman Butterfield (Cambridge, Mass., 1961), 2:125-26 (26 May 176o).

17. Franklin Papers , ed. Labaree et al., 9 (1966): 400 (10 December 1761).

18. Ibid., 20 (1976): 6 (4 January 1773).

19. Ibid., 14 (1970): 309 (18 November 1767).

20. Ibid., 15 (1972): 54 (20 February 1768).

17. Franklin Papers , ed. Labaree et al., 9 (1966): 400 (10 December 1761).

18. Ibid., 20 (1976): 6 (4 January 1773).

19. Ibid., 14 (1970): 309 (18 November 1767).

20. Ibid., 15 (1972): 54 (20 February 1768).

17. Franklin Papers , ed. Labaree et al., 9 (1966): 400 (10 December 1761).

18. Ibid., 20 (1976): 6 (4 January 1773).

19. Ibid., 14 (1970): 309 (18 November 1767).

20. Ibid., 15 (1972): 54 (20 February 1768).

17. Franklin Papers , ed. Labaree et al., 9 (1966): 400 (10 December 1761).

18. Ibid., 20 (1976): 6 (4 January 1773).

19. Ibid., 14 (1970): 309 (18 November 1767).

20. Ibid., 15 (1972): 54 (20 February 1768).

21. J. McArthur Harris, Jr., "A Wissahickon Anthology," Germantown Crier 34 (1982): 81, 82.

22. Jared Eliot, Essays upon Field Husbandry in New England , ed. Harry Carman and Rexford Tugwell (New York, 1934), p. 200.

23. Johann David Schoepf, Travels in the Confederation, 1783-1784 (Philadelphia, 1911), 2:188.

24. American Philosophical Society, Early Proceedings (Philadelphia, 1884), pp. 15-17.

25. The vineyard site is now part of the grounds of the Waldron Academy, Merion, Pa.

26. F. J. Dallett, "John Leacock," Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography 78 (1954): 460-62.

27. John Leacock, Commonplace Book (MS, American Philosophical Society).

28. Dallett, "John Leacock," p. 464.

29. R. P. McCormick, "The Royal Society, the Grape, and New Jersey," Proceedings of the New Jersey Historical Society 81 (1963): 75-84.

30. Franklin Papers , ed. Labaree et al., 9 (1966): 321-22.

31. Royal Society of Arts, Minutes of Committee on Colonies and Trade, 17 February 1761.

32. McCormick, "The Royal Society, the Grape, and New Jersey," p. 80.

33. Edward Antill to Dr. Peter Templeman, 28 August 1765 (Royal Society of Arts, Guard Books, 9: 19).

34. McCormick, "The Royal Society, the Grape, and New Jersey," p. 79. Antill's remark is admirable rhetoric but poor geography; nature has denied to most parts of the world the means to grow wine grapes.

35. Franklin Papers , ed. Labaree et al., 2 (1960): 381 (14 May 1743).

36. Edward Antill, "An Essay on the Cultivation of the Vine, and the Making and Preserving of Wine, Suited to the Different Climates of North-America," Transactions of the American Philosophical Society 1 (2d ed., Philadelphia, 1789): 183.

37. Edward Antill to Dr. Sonmans, 31 January 1768: MS, Historical Society of Pennsylvania.

38. Royal Society of Arts, Guard Books, 10: 19 (28 August 1765).

39. Antill, "Essay on the Cultivation of the Vine," p. 192.

40. McCormick, "The Royal Society, the Grape, and New Jersey," p. 79.

41. Antill to Dr. Templeman, in Royal Society of Arts, Guard Books, 12:38 (9 May 1766).

42. New York Gazette and the Weekly Mercury , 1 February 1768.

43. Evidence of Thomas Burgie, Stirling's gardener, in Royal Society of Arts, Guard Books, 11: 82 (6 October 1766).

44. McCormick, "The Royal Society, the Grape, and New Jersey," p. 77.

45. Royal Society of Arts, Guard Books, 11: 82 (6 October 1766).

46. McCormick, "The Royal Society, the Grape, and New Jersey," p. 80.

47. Schoepf, Travels in the Confederation , 2: 184.

48. Stephen William Johnson, Rural Economy (New Brunswick, N.J., 1806), p. 166.

49. Proceedings of the New Jersey Hiswrical Society , n.s., 5 (1920): 126.

50. Robert Dossie, Memoirs of Agriculture (London, 1768-82), 1: 243.

51. Royal Society of Arts, Minutes of Committee on Colonies and Trade, 2 February 1768.

52. Richard Hakluyt, The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques, and Discoveries of the English Nation (1589; reprint, Glasgow, 1903-5), 8: 355.

53. Peter Force, ed., Tracts Relating Principally to the Origin, Settlement, and Progress of the Colonies in North America (Washington, D.C., 1836-46), 1: no. 6, p. 16.

54. Alexander Brown, The Genesis of the United States (Boston, 1890), 1:410.

55. Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 76 (1968): 427; Albert C. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania, West New Jersey, and Delaware (New York, 1912), pp. 227-28; Alexander Salley, ed., Narratives of Early Carolina, 1650-1708 (New York, 1911), p. 310; for Beverley, see p. 64.

56. Hedrick, History of Horticulture , p. 145.

57. See above, p. 36.

58. Jean Pierre Purry, "Proposals" (Charleston, 1731), in B. R. Carroll, Historical Collections of South Carolina (New York, 1836), 2: 122, 131.

59. Collections of the South Carolina Historical Society, vol. 2 (1858): 83: "Ils se proposent . . . de s'appliquer principalement à la culture de vignes et des vers-a-soye."

60. Arthur H. Hirsch, The Huguenots of Colonial South Carolina (Durham, N.C., 1928), pp. 39-4o; Nora Marshall Davis, "The French Settlement at New Bordeaux," Transactions of the Huguenot Society of South Carolina , no. 56 (1951): 28-57.

61. William Stork, ed., A Description of East-Florida with a Journal Kept by John Bartram , 3d ed. (London, 1769), p. 29.

62. For the date, see Davis, "French Settlement at New Bordeaux," p. 43.

63. Louis de Mesnil de St. Pierre, "Plan for the Culture of the Vine etc. at New Bourdeaux" (London, 771); a MS copy is in the Library of Congress.

64. Davis, "French Settlement at New Bordeaux," p. 45.

65. Hirsch, Huguenots , p. 207; St. Pierre, "Plan for the Culture of the Vine."

66. Louis de Mesnil de St. Pierre, The Art of Planting and Cultivating the Vine (London, 1772), pp. xxviii-xxix.

67. It appears in an anonymous pamphlet entitled "A Memorial on the Practicability of Growing Vineyards in the State of South Carolina" (Charleston, 1798), p. 5. Lord Hillsborough himself told Henry Laurens that he regretted that public money was not available for St. Pierre's project, and it may have been Hillsborough who obtained a grant of 5,000 acres of land in South Carolina for St. Pierre through the Privy Council ( The Papers of Henry Laurens , ed. Philip M. Hamer et al. [Columbia, S.C., 1968-81], 8:139, 140n).

68. Royal Society of Arts, MS Transactions, 7 January 1772.

67. It appears in an anonymous pamphlet entitled "A Memorial on the Practicability of Growing Vineyards in the State of South Carolina" (Charleston, 1798), p. 5. Lord Hillsborough himself told Henry Laurens that he regretted that public money was not available for St. Pierre's project, and it may have been Hillsborough who obtained a grant of 5,000 acres of land in South Carolina for St. Pierre through the Privy Council ( The Papers of Henry Laurens , ed. Philip M. Hamer et al. [Columbia, S.C., 1968-81], 8:139, 140n).

68. Royal Society of Arts, MS Transactions, 7 January 1772.

69. St. Pierre, "Plan for the Culture of the Vine."

70. Papers of Henry Laurens , 8:139 (to John Lewis Gervais, 28 December 1771).

71. A MS copy of St. Pierre's "The Great Utility of Establishing the Culture of Vines . . ." (London, 1771) is in the Library of Congress.

72. Ibid., ff. 15, 19.

73. Louis de Mesnil de St. Pierre, "A Proposal for the Further Encouragement of the Production of Silk, and Growing of Vines, at the Colony of New Bourdeaux . . . ," in Acts of Parliament , 1772; The Art of Planting and Cultivating tile Vine , p. xxvii.

74. United Kingdom, Board of Trade, Journals of the Commissioners for Trade and Plantations, January 1768-December 1775 (18 March 1772).

75. St. Pierre, Art of Planting and Cultivating the Vine , pp. xiv-xx.

76. Ibid., p. 6.

75. St. Pierre, Art of Planting and Cultivating the Vine , pp. xiv-xx.

76. Ibid., p. 6.

77. Anon., "Memorial on the Practicability of Growing Vineyards in South Carolina," p. 5. Perhaps St. Pierre's reference to " A VERY GREAT AND EXALTED PERSONAGE " whose patronage was offered but whose name he could not disclose was the basis of this assertion ( Art of Planting , p. xxix).

78. Papers of Henry Laurens , 8: 400n., and 566n. (report by Lewis Gervais, 6 June 1772).

79. Purdie and Dixon's Virginia Gazette , 22 July 1773, p. 2a.

80. Royal Society of Arts, Guard Book A: 159, 161, 163 (20 January, 19 November, 22 October 1770).

81. Papers of Henry Laurens , 9:187.

82. John William De Brahm, Report of the General Survey in the Southern District of North America , ed. Louis De Vorsey, Jr. (Columbia, S.C., 1971), p. 70.

83. Ibid., p. 71. The story about the wine of the Jesuits in Mexico is more legend than fact. The Jesuit missions of Baja California did produce a trickle of wine, but not enough to supply their own needs, much less those of any others.

82. John William De Brahm, Report of the General Survey in the Southern District of North America , ed. Louis De Vorsey, Jr. (Columbia, S.C., 1971), p. 70.

83. Ibid., p. 71. The story about the wine of the Jesuits in Mexico is more legend than fact. The Jesuit missions of Baja California did produce a trickle of wine, but not enough to supply their own needs, much less those of any others.

84. William Bartram, Travels , ed. Francis Harper (New Haven, 1958), p. 237.

85. MS note on Library of Congress copy of St. Pierre, "The Great Utility of Establishing the Culture of Vines," f. 21.

86. "A Memorial on the Practicability of Growing Vineyards in the State of South Carolina," p. 5.

87. [Fairfax Harrison], Landmarks of Old Prince William (Richmond, Va., 1924), 1: 188.

88. Durand de Dauphiné, A Huguenot Exile in Virginia , ed. Gilbert Chinard (New York, 1934), p. 126.

89. Robert Beverley, The History and Present State of Virginia , ed. Louis B. Wright (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1947), p. 134.

90. Louis Michel, "The Journey of Francis Louis Michel," Virginia Magazine of History and Biography 24 (1916): 123.

91. John Lawson, A New Voyage to Carolina , ed. H. T. Lefler (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1967), p. 119.

92. Cecil Johnson, British West Florida, 1763-1783 (New Haven, 1943), pp. 151-52.

93. William Penn to Lord Halifax, 9 December 1683, in J. L. Bishop, A History of American Manufactures from 1608 to 1860 , 1: 273; "A Letter from Doctor More . . ." (1687), in Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 287.

94. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 227n.

95. Francis Pastorius, in Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 398. The passage from John reads: "I am the true vine, and my Father is the husbandman . . . I am the vine, ye are the branches: He that abideth in me, and I in him, the same bringeth forth much fruit."

96. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 291.

97. Ibid., p. 228n.

98. Ibid., p. 227.

99. Ibid., pp. 241-42.

96. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 291.

97. Ibid., p. 228n.

98. Ibid., p. 227.

99. Ibid., pp. 241-42.

96. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 291.

97. Ibid., p. 228n.

98. Ibid., p. 227.

99. Ibid., pp. 241-42.

96. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 291.

97. Ibid., p. 228n.

98. Ibid., p. 227.

99. Ibid., pp. 241-42.

100. United Kingdom, House of Lords, The Manuscripts of the House of Lords, 1695-1697 , n.s., 2 (London, 1903): 471.

101. Albert Bernhardt Faust, The German Element in the United States (Boston, 1909), 1: 285.

102. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 398.

103. Ibid., p. 383.

102. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 398.

103. Ibid., p. 383.

104. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1708-1709 , pp. 456- 57 (30 August 1709).

105. Ibid., pp. 565-66.

106. Ibid., 1710-1711 , various entries.

104. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1708-1709 , pp. 456- 57 (30 August 1709).

105. Ibid., pp. 565-66.

106. Ibid., 1710-1711 , various entries.

104. United Kingdom, Public Record Office, Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1708-1709 , pp. 456- 57 (30 August 1709).

105. Ibid., pp. 565-66.

106. Ibid., 1710-1711 , various entries.

107. Vincent H. Todd, ed., Christoph yon Graffenreid's Account of the Founding of New Bern (Raleigh, N.C., 1920), pp. 43-49.

1. Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography 47 (1923): 201-2.

2. Jacques Pierre Brissot de Warville, New Travels in the United States of America , ed. Durand Echeverria (Cambridge, Mass., 1964), pp. 204-7.

3. For Legaux generally, see S. Gordon Smyth, "Peter Legaux," Historical Sketches (Historical Society of Montgomery County, Pa.) 2 (1900): 92-125.

4. François, duc de la Bochefoucauld-Liancourt, Travels through the United States of North America (London, 1799), 1: 11-12.

5. Smyth, "Legaux," p. 105.

6. "A Memorial on the Practicability of Growing Vineyards in the State of South Carolina" (Charleston, 1798), p. 6.

7. Pennsylvania, Statutes at Large of Pennsylvania from 1682 to 1809 , ed. J.T. Mitchell and Henry Flanders (Harrisburg, 1896-1908), 14: 356-60; 16:438, 516.

8. Smyth, "Legaux," pp. 113-15 (26 January 1791).

9. Ibid., p. 116.

10. Ibid., p. 118.

8. Smyth, "Legaux," pp. 113-15 (26 January 1791).

9. Ibid., p. 116.

10. Ibid., p. 118.

8. Smyth, "Legaux," pp. 113-15 (26 January 1791).

9. Ibid., p. 116.

10. Ibid., p. 118.

11. Annals of Congress , 3d Cong., 1st sess., 19 May 1794, col. 101.

12. Henry Wansey and His American Journal, 1794 , ed. David John Jeremy (Philadelphia, 1970), pp. 39-40; Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, Travels , 1: 11.

13. Smyth, "Legaux," pp. 117-19.

14. Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, Travels , 1: 11.

15. Smyth, "Legaux," p. 119.

16. Legaux to Jefferson, 4 and 25 March 1801; Jefferson to Legaux, 24 March 1801 (MSS, Jefferson Papers, Library of Congress).

17. Edwin Morris Betts, ed., Thomas Jefferson's Garden Book, 1766-1824 (Philadelphia, 1944), pp. 277-78 (11 May 1802).

18. Smyth, "Legaux," p. 122.

19. Ibid., p. 121.

18. Smyth, "Legaux," p. 122.

19. Ibid., p. 121.

20. The extant journal is in the keeping of the American Philosophical Society, of which, one recalls, Legaux was a member. The journal for the years 1814-22, during which period the company collapsed and expired, is missing, perhaps deliberately suppressed.

22. Ibid., 1:135 (19 August 1804).

23. Ibid., 1: 171-72 (April 1805). Lee evidently formed a permanent interest in winegrowing but never fulfilled his promise to write a book on wines and vines. A prospectus for such a book, which was to include a general history, information on varieties, accounts of European vineyards, and advice on viticulture and enology, was noticed in the New England Farmer in 1823; four years later Niles' Register reported that Lee, now one of the auditors at Washington, was just on the point of going to press with his treatise on vine culture. I have found no further record of the book. It would have had an eager reception: James Madison, for example, wrote Lee on 16 December 1823 asking to be put down for two copies of the projected volume (MS, Historical Society of Pennsylvania). In 1816, after his return from France to the United States, Lee had been active in organizing the French Alabama settlement for wine and olive growing (see below, pp. 135-39, and Winston Smith, Days of Exile: The Story of the Fine and Olive Colony in Alabama [Tuscaloosa, Ala., 1967], p. 27).

21. Peter Legaux, Journal, 1:38, 66 (see preceding note).

20. The extant journal is in the keeping of the American Philosophical Society, of which, one recalls, Legaux was a member. The journal for the years 1814-22, during which period the company collapsed and expired, is missing, perhaps deliberately suppressed.

22. Ibid., 1:135 (19 August 1804).

23. Ibid., 1: 171-72 (April 1805). Lee evidently formed a permanent interest in winegrowing but never fulfilled his promise to write a book on wines and vines. A prospectus for such a book, which was to include a general history, information on varieties, accounts of European vineyards, and advice on viticulture and enology, was noticed in the New England Farmer in 1823; four years later Niles' Register reported that Lee, now one of the auditors at Washington, was just on the point of going to press with his treatise on vine culture. I have found no further record of the book. It would have had an eager reception: James Madison, for example, wrote Lee on 16 December 1823 asking to be put down for two copies of the projected volume (MS, Historical Society of Pennsylvania). In 1816, after his return from France to the United States, Lee had been active in organizing the French Alabama settlement for wine and olive growing (see below, pp. 135-39, and Winston Smith, Days of Exile: The Story of the Fine and Olive Colony in Alabama [Tuscaloosa, Ala., 1967], p. 27).

20. The extant journal is in the keeping of the American Philosophical Society, of which, one recalls, Legaux was a member. The journal for the years 1814-22, during which period the company collapsed and expired, is missing, perhaps deliberately suppressed.

22. Ibid., 1:135 (19 August 1804).

23. Ibid., 1: 171-72 (April 1805). Lee evidently formed a permanent interest in winegrowing but never fulfilled his promise to write a book on wines and vines. A prospectus for such a book, which was to include a general history, information on varieties, accounts of European vineyards, and advice on viticulture and enology, was noticed in the New England Farmer in 1823; four years later Niles' Register reported that Lee, now one of the auditors at Washington, was just on the point of going to press with his treatise on vine culture. I have found no further record of the book. It would have had an eager reception: James Madison, for example, wrote Lee on 16 December 1823 asking to be put down for two copies of the projected volume (MS, Historical Society of Pennsylvania). In 1816, after his return from France to the United States, Lee had been active in organizing the French Alabama settlement for wine and olive growing (see below, pp. 135-39, and Winston Smith, Days of Exile: The Story of the Fine and Olive Colony in Alabama [Tuscaloosa, Ala., 1967], p. 27).

24. Legaux, Journal, 2: 33, 84 (12 June 1806, June 1807).

25. Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography 48 (1924): 79.

26. Legaux, Journal, 2:96 (October 1807).

27. Ibid., 3: 2, 31 (August 1809, 4 May 1810).

26. Legaux, Journal, 2:96 (October 1807).

27. Ibid., 3: 2, 31 (August 1809, 4 May 1810).

28. See below, p. 119.

29. Legaux, Journal, 3:6 (26-29 September 1809).

30. Ibid., 3:10 (1811).

31. Ibid., 3: 19, 35 (1813).

29. Legaux, Journal, 3:6 (26-29 September 1809).

30. Ibid., 3:10 (1811).

31. Ibid., 3: 19, 35 (1813).

29. Legaux, Journal, 3:6 (26-29 September 1809).

30. Ibid., 3:10 (1811).

31. Ibid., 3: 19, 35 (1813).

32. Smyth, "Legaux," p. 123.

33. S. W. Johnson, Rural Economy (New Brunswick, N.J., 1806), pp. 156-57.

34. U. P. Hedrick, History of Horticulture in America to 1860 (New York, 1950), p. 84.

35. Copy, George Morgan Papers, Library of Congress.

36. Morgan to ?, 11 June 1802: copy, Morgan Papers.

37. Max Sayelle, George Morgan, Colony Builder (New York, 1932), p. 233.

38. 28 February 1807 (MS, American Philosophical Society).

39. MS, American Philosophical Society.

40. William Bartram, in James Mease, ed., Domestic Encyclopaedia (Philadelphia, 18o3-4), 5: 289-92. The Catalogue of Bartram's Gardens published in 1807 lists these species available according to Bartram's classification: occidentalis, labrusca, vulpina, taurina, and serotina, adding that "the varieties are infinite."

41. Mease, ed., Domestic Encyclopaedia 5: 292- 96.

42. U. P. Hedrick, The Grapes of New York (Albany, N.Y., 1908), p. 43.

43. E.g., Joseph Cooper, who farmed on the banks of the Delaware across from Philadelphia. He had been making wine from native grapes and encouraging their cultivation since the time of the Revolution. He was a friend of Mease's and of Adlum's, and a grape of his introducing is described by Prince, so that it is clear that his work in favor of native vines was well known in quarters where attention was paid to such matters. See also p. 93 above for other evidence of interest in the native grape. For Cooper, see John Adlum, A Memoir on the Cultivation of the Vine in America, and the Best Mode of Making Wine (Washington, D.C., 1823), pp. 107-9, and Hedrick, History of Horticulture , p. 432.

44. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 43.

45. Clarence Gohdes, Scuppernong: North Carolina's Grape and Its Wines (Durham, N.C., 1982), p. 12, quoting a letter from Mease published 7 March 1811.

46. Constantine F. Volney, View of the Climate and Soil of the United States of America (London, 1804), pp. 363-64.

47. John James Dufour, The American Vine-Dresser's Guide (Cincinnati, 1826), pp. 20-21.

48. Volney, View of the Climate and Soil , p. 364.

49. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , p. 20.

50. A copy of the broadsheet is in the Innes Papers, Library of Congress. Some years later the poet John Keats, writing to his brother George, who had emigrated to Louisville, Kentucky, wondered whether Kentucky could not grow a wine like his favorite claret: "Would it not be a good spec. to send you some vine-roots? Could it be done? I'll enquire. If you could make some wine like claret, to drink on summer evenings in an arbour!" (February 1819).

51. J. P. Brissot de Warville, "Thoughts on the Cultivation of Vines—and on the Wine Trade between France and America," American Museum , December 1788, pp. 568-71.

52. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , pp. 7-8. On Dufour generally, see Perret Dufour, The Swiss Settlement of Switzerland County, Indiana (Indianapolis, 1925).

53. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , p. 8. Dufour says that his left arm was "maimed"; Perret Dufour, Swiss Settlement , p. 8, says that it was the right.

54. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , p. 18.

55. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , pp. 18-19; 8.

56. Bernard Mayo, Henry Clay (Boston, 1937), p. 117.

57. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , p. 9; Perret Dufour, Swiss Settlement , pp. 9-10.

58. François André Michaux, Travels to the Westward of the Allegany Mountains (London, 1805). pp. 163-68.

59. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , pp. 9-10.

60. Partly because of uncertainty about what it really was, the Alexander has generated a more than usual number of synonyms, some of them clearly reflecting its mixed character, in which the perfect flowers of vinifera are mingled with the unmistakable flavor of a native grape. Among the names it has gone under at different times and places are Cape, Black Cape, Schuylkill Muscadel, Constantia, Springmill Constantia, Clifton's Constantia, Tasker's Grape, Vevay, York Lisbon, and York Madeira.

61. Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York, 1898), p. 42.

62. American Farmer 7 (22 July 1825): 140.

63. Perret Dufour, Swiss Settlement , p. 19.

64. Mayo, Henry Clay , p. 117.

65. Perret Dufour, Swiss Settlement , pp. 307-9; 315-17. The eminent botanist and writer Liberty Hyde Bailey visited the site of First Vineyard and published a description of it in his Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (1898). At the end of the century, the property had become a sheep pasture, the old log house had disappeared, and only a pear tree and the vestiges of a stone wall marking the boundary of the vineyard remained to memorialize Dufour's struggles there to grow vines and make wine.

66. Dufour to Thomas Jefferson, 1 February 1801 (Jefferson Papers, Library of Congress).

67. Dufour to Thomas Jefferson, 15 January 1802 (Jefferson Papers).

68. Statutes at Large of the United States of America, 1789-1873 , 6 (1846): 47-48 (1 May 1802).

69. Perret Dufour, Swiss Settlement , p. 18.

70. Statutes at Large of the United States of America, 1789-1873 , 6 (1846): 126 (2 August 1813).

71. Perret Dufour, Swiss Settlement , pp. 33-34.

72. Ibid., p. 70.

71. Perret Dufour, Swiss Settlement , pp. 33-34.

72. Ibid., p. 70.

73. Timothy Flint, Condensed Geography (1828), quoted in Harlow Lindley, ed., Indiana as Seen by Early Travellers (Indianapolis, 1916), p. 449.

74. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , pp. 24, 113; Karl J. R. Arndt, A Documentary History of the Indiana Decade of the Harmony Society, 1814-1824 (Indianapolis, 1975-78), 1: 11-12.

75. American Farmer 2 (16 March 1821): 405.

76. John Melish, Travels through the United States (Philadelphia, 1812), 2:131; John F. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba': Grape Growing and Wine Making in Cincinnati, 1800-1870" (M.A. thesis, University of Cincinnati, 1964), p. 7.

77. Niles' Weekly Register 4 (24 July 1813): 344.

78. William Cobbett, in Lindley, ed., Indiana as Seen by Early Travellers , p. 508:17 June 1817.

79. Timothy Flint, Recollections of the Last Ten Years (Boston, 1826), pp. 59-60.

80. Lindley, ed., Indiana as Seen by Early Travellers , p. 522.

81. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , p. 33.

82. Perret Dufour, Swiss Settlement , p. 25.

83. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , p. 11.

84. Ibid., p. 7.

83. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , p. 11.

84. Ibid., p. 7.

85. American Farmer 2 (26 November 1819): 281.

86. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , pp. 74-75.

87. Ibid., pp. 39, 41.

86. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , pp. 74-75.

87. Ibid., pp. 39, 41.

88. Perret Dufour, Swiss Settlement , p. 363n.

89. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1847 (Washington, D.C., 1848), p. 462.

90. Cozzens' Wine Press , 20 February 1858, p. 172, citing the Cincinnati grower and winemaker Robert Buchanan.

91. Karl Postel in Lindley, ed., Indiana as Seen by Early Travellers , p. 522; Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 19.

92. Betts, ed., Jefferson's Garden Book , p. 572.

93. To M. de Neuville, 13 December 1818 ( Writings of Thomas Jefferson , ed. Andrew A. Lipscomb and Albert Ellery Bergh [Washington, D.C., 1903], 15: 178).

94. The title of an instructive exhibition mounted in 1975 at the Wine Museum of San Francisco. See also R. de Treville Lawrence, Sr., ed., Jefferson and Wine (The Plains, Va., 1976).

95. Wine Museum of San Francisco, Thomas Jefferson and Wine in Early America (San Francisco, 1976), p. 11.

96. See Vinifera Wine Growers Journal , Fall 1984, p. 142a.

97. Jefferson to John Adlum, 7 October 1809 (Jefferson Papers).

98. Jefferson to John Adlum, 13 January 1816 (Betts, ed. , Jefferson's Garden Book , p. 554).

99. Jean David to Jefferson, 26 November 1815 (Jefferson Papers).

100. Jefferson to David, 13 and 16 January 1816 (Jefferson Papers).

101. Jefferson to Adlum, 13 January 1816 (Jefferson Papers).

102. Jefferson to James Monroe, 16 January 1816 (Jefferson Papers).

103. Jean David to Jefferson, 1 February 1816 (Jefferson Papers).

104. Quoted by Rodney True, "Early Days of the Albemarle Agricultural Society," in Annual Report of the American Historical Association, 1918 (Washington, D.C., 1921), 1: 245.

105. Betts, ed. , Jefferson's Garden Book , p. 637.

106. Ibid., p. 572.

105. Betts, ed. , Jefferson's Garden Book , p. 637.

106. Ibid., p. 572.

107. Jefferson to John Adlum, 13 June 1822 (Jefferson Papers).

108. They were identified to him as Ebinezer Pettigrew, of Edenton, and George E. Spruill, of Plymouth, who "owns the famous vine covering an acre of ground" (Francis Eppes to Jefferson, 21 April 1823, in The Family Letters of Thomas Jefferson , ed. E. M. Betts and J. A. Bear, Jr. [Columbia, Mo., 1966], p. 447).

109. Jefferson to John Adlum, 13 June 1822 (Jefferson Papers).

110. American Farmer 7 (29 April 1825): 45.

111. Nicholas Longworth, in American Farmer 15 (21 December 1832): 326.

112. F. C. Reimer in a report of 1909 cited in Lawrence, ed. , Jefferson and Wine , p. 83.

113. Cozzens' Wine Press 4 (20 May 1858): 198.

114. Betts, ed., Jefferson's Garden Book , pp. 126-27 (to William Drayton, 30 July 1787).

1. George Rapp, Petition to Congress, 1805, in Karl J. R. Arndt, George Rapp's Harmony Society, 1785-1847 (Philadelphia, 1965), p. 86.

2. Arndt, George Rapp's Harmony Society , p. 114.

3. Karl J. R. Arndt, Harmony on the Connoquenessing (Worcester, Mass., 1980), p. 874.

4. Ibid., p. 422.

3. Karl J. R. Arndt, Harmony on the Connoquenessing (Worcester, Mass., 1980), p. 874.

4. Ibid., p. 422.

5. Arndt, George Rapp's Harmony Society , p. 125; id., Harmony on the Connoquenessing , p. 874.

6. Arndt, Harmony on the Connoquenessing , pp. 715-16.

7. Arndt, George Rapp's Harmony Society , p. 134.

8. Ibid., p. 137.

7. Arndt, George Rapp's Harmony Society , p. 134.

8. Ibid., p. 137.

9. Karl J. R. Arndt, A Documentary History of the Indiana Decade of the Harmony Society, 1814-1824 (Indianapolis, 1975-78), 1:77 (29 November-14 December? 1814).

10. Arndt, Documentary History , 1: 107, 745, 799; id., George Rapp's Harmony Society , p. 295.

11. Dufour, Vine-Dresser's Guide , pp. 20, 305.

12. Arndt, Documentary History , 1: 235-37 (20 July 1816).

13. Ibid., 2: 480n.

12. Arndt, Documentary History , 1: 235-37 (20 July 1816).

13. Ibid., 2: 480n.

14. Arndt, George Rapp's Harmony Society , p. 322.

15. Arndt, Documentary History , 2:18 (8 February 1820).

16. The story of the abundant wine produced from wild grapes by the French in eighteenth-century Illinois is a hardy perennial, but the evidence for it is shaky; the earliest published version I know of is in a newspaper item from the late eighteenth century promoting emigration to the Illinois country—a suspicious circumstance. Other stories about wine in early Illinois—such as that one that tells how the French government forbade vine planting for fear of competition with the home industry—are equally dubious. For the assertion about French wine production in Illinois, see, e.g., Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York, 1898), p. 3, and the Franklin Papers, American Philosophical Society, 58: ff. 11-12 (MS, c. 1772); the latter document affirms that the French remaining in Illinois territory had made French vines "flourish there and produce wine." For the newspaper reference, see Howard Mumford Jones, America and French Culture, 1750-1848 (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1927), p. 303n.

17. In Barren County, Kentucky: the reference is to the vineyards of a Swiss, Buchetti, and of an American, James G. Hicks.

18. MS, c. 1822, courtesy Karl J. R. Arndt, German-American Archives, Clark University, Worcester, Mass.

19. Arndt, George Rapp's Harmony Society , p. 277.

20. Ferdinand Ernst, "Visit to Harmonie," 18 July 1819 (Arndt, Documentary History , 1: 745).

21. Lindley, Indiana as Seen by Early Travellers , p. 425; Arndt, George Rapp's Harmony Society , p. 341.

22. Karl J. R. Arndt, Harmony on the Wabash in Transition (Worcester, Mass., 1982), pp. 685-86.

23. Sandor Farkas, 4 October 1831, quoted in Karl J. R. Arndt, Economy on the Ohio, 1826-34 (Worcester, Mass., 1984), p. 624.

24. Charles Nordhoff, The Communistic Societies of the United States (New York, 1875), p. 89.

25. Rudyard Kipling, From Sea to Sea (London, 1900), 2: 180.

26. Arndt, George Rapp's Harmony Society , pp. 296-98.

27. American Farmer 5 (31 October 1823): 251.

28. William Robert Prince, Treatise on the Vine (New York, 1830), p. 227. A list drawn up for Prince in 1829 provides these names of growers: in Lancaster County, Bauchman, Meitz, Gist, Miller, and Becker; in York County, Eichelberger, Bernetz, Lessus, Upp, Spengler, Hinkel, Small, Groll, Shelby, Ness, Sulsbach, Forembach, and Wildie. There were doubtless others as well (Prince Papers, National Agricultural Library).

29. W. P. Hedrick, The Grapes of New York (Albany, N.Y., 1908), p. 44.

30. Niles' Register 11 (23 November 1816): 208.

31. John Charles Dawson, Lakanal the Regicide (University, Ala., 1948), p. 104.

32. Annals of Congress , 14th Cong., 2d sess., p. 1313 (3 March 1817).

33. On the different names of the organization, see J. S. Reeves, The Napoleonic Exiles in America , Johns Hopkins University Studies in History and Political Science, 23d ser. (Baltimore, 1905), p. 558; Kent Gardien, "The Splendid Fools: Philadelphia Origins of Alabama's Vine and Olive Colony," Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography 104 (1980): 503.

34. American State Papers, Public Lands (Washington, D.C., 1832-61), 3: 387, 435.

35. Reeves, Napoleonic Exiles , pp. 560-61.

36. Reported in Niles' Register 13 (31 January 1818): 377.

37. American State Papers, Public Lands , 3: 435.

38. The summary in this paragraph is drawn from Hamner Cobbs, "Geography of the Vine and Olive Company," Alabama Review 14 (April 1961): 83-97; Anne Bozeman Lyon, "The Buonapartists in Alabama," Gulf States Historical Magazine 1 (1902-3): 325-36; Albert James Pickett, History of Alabama , 3d ed. (Charleston, S.C., 1851 ); Reeves, Napoleonic Exiles ; Winston Smith, Days of Exile: Tile Story of the Vine and Olive Company in Alabama (Tuscaloosa, Ala., 1967); and Gaius Whitfield, Jr., "The French Grant in Alabama," Transactions of the Alabama Historical Society, 1899-1903 4 (1904): 321 -55.

39. American State Papers, Public Lands , 3: 537-

40. Lyon, "Buonapartists in Alabama," p. 330.

41. Cobbs, "Geography of the Vine and Olive Company," pp. 89-90; . American State Papers, Public Lands , 3: 396.

42. American State Papers, Public Lands , 3:396, 537.

43. Pickett, History of Alabama , 3d ed., 1: 398.

44. Samuel Maverick to Thomas Jefferson, 4 March 1822 (Edwin Morris Betts, ed., Thomas Jefferson's Garden Book, 1766-1824 (Philadelphia, 1944), p. 602.

45. American State Papers, Public Lands , 5:15.

46. Ibid., p. 467.

45. American State Papers, Public Lands , 5:15.

46. Ibid., p. 467.

47. Robert W. Withers, American Farmer 11 (5 June 1829): 91.

48. On Adlum generally, see Bessie Wilmarth Gahn, "Major John Adlum of Rock Creek," Records of the Columbia Historical Society 39 (1938): 127-39; Donald H. Kent and Mearle H. Deardorff, "John Adlum on the Allegheny: Memoirs for the Year 1794," Pennsylvania Magazine for History and Biography 84 (1960): 265-324, 435-80; John A. Saul, "Tree Culture, or a Sketch of Nurseries in the District of Columbia," Records of the Columbia Historical Society 10 (1907): 38-47.

49. John Adlum to Thomas Jefferson, 15 February 1810 (Jefferson Papers, Library of Congress).

50. John Adlum, A Memoir on tile Cultivation of the Vine in America, and the Best Mode of Making Wine , 2d ed. (Washington, D.C., 1828), p. 11.

51. Adlum, Memoir , 1st ed. (Washington, D.C., 1823), p. 24n.

52. Jefferson to Adlum, 7 October 1809 (Jefferson Papers).

53. Adlum to Jefferson, 15 February 1810 (Jefferson Papers).

54. Jefferson to Adlum, 13 January 1816 (Betts, ed., Jefferson's Garden Book , p. 554); Adlum to Jefferson, 27 February 1816 (Jefferson Papers).

55. New England Farmer 2 (1824): 277.

56. Cozzens' Wine Press 1 (20 June 1854): 2.

57. Adlum to Jefferson, 5 June 1822 (Jefferson Papers).

58. Adlum to J. S. Skinner, 17 September 1822 ( American Farmer 4 [1 November 1822]: 256).

59. American Farmer 4 (5 July 1822): 112.

60. American Farmer 4 (1 November 1822): 256.

61. Adlum to Jefferson, 5 June 1822 (Jefferson Papers).

62. American Farmer 4 (1 November 1822): 256.

63. Adlum to Jefferson, 24 March 1823 (Jefferson Papers).

64. Jefferson to Adlum, 11 April 1823 ( American Farmer 5 [16 May 1823]: 63).

65. Adlum to Jefferson, 14 March 1823 (Jefferson Papers).

66. Adlum uses ''Catawba" in American Farmer 7 (4 March 1825): 397.

67. The most circumstantial account, by Dr. Stephen Mosher, was published in the Western Horticultural Review , 1850; this is summarized by both Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 206, and by Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York, 1898), pp. 54-56.

68. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 207.

69. A Wine-Grower's Guide (New York, 1965), p. 206.

70. The Horticulturist 5 (August 1850): 58.

71. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1847 (Washington, D.C., 1848), p. 467.

72. It was republished in facsimile in 1971. The first edition is now a collector's item, bringing a price of many hundreds of dollars.

73. Adlum, Memoir on the Cultivation of the Vine , 2d ed., p. 37.

74. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1847 , p. 462.

75. Madison to Mr. Randolph, 13 April 1823 (Pennsylvania Historical Society).

76. John Adlum, A Memoir on the Cultivation of the Vine , 1st ed., p. 4.

77. American Farmer 6 (7 May 1824): 53.

78. American Farmer 7 (2 September 1825): 188.

79. Gahn, "Major John Adlum," p. 136.

80. Isaac G. Hutton, The Vigneron; an Essay on the Culture of the Grape and the Making of Wine (Washington, D.C., 1827); copy in the Library of Congress.

81. Verse as a medium for popularizing technical subjects goes back to Vergil and was familiar in the eighteenth century, but it is unusual to find it being used as late as 1827: see, e.g., the poem Cyder by John Philips (1708) and Dr. Erasmus Darwin's The Loves of the Plants (1789).

82. Adlum to Jefferson, 5 June 1822, 24 March 1823 (Jefferson Papers).

83. American Farmer 10 (4 July 1828): 128; Niles' Register 36 (18 April 1829): 119.

84. U. P. Hedrick, History of Horticulture in America to 1860 (New York, 1950), p. 224. Hedrick's is a general proposition subject to much modification in particulars. The attempt to grow vinifera in the East was never abandoned by private growers, and both state and federal agencies kept up experiments at different times during the century.

85. John Adlum, Adlum on Making Wine (Georgetown, 1826) was reprinted from the National Journal. .

86. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 214.

87. Senate Documents , 20th Cong., 1st sess., Senate Document 185 (Washington, D.C., 1828).

88. Ibid.; Niles' Register 34 (1828): 161, 192, 209.

87. Senate Documents , 20th Cong., 1st sess., Senate Document 185 (Washington, D.C., 1828).

88. Ibid.; Niles' Register 34 (1828): 161, 192, 209.

89. Gahn, "Major John Adlum," p. 131.

90. Adlum to Jefferson, 24 March 1823 (Jefferson Papers).

91. American Farmer 9 (22 February 1828): 388.

92. Information from Dr. J. R. McGrew.

93. American Farmer 1 (1 October 1819): 214.

94. E.g., American Farmer 7 (29 April 1825): 45; Niles' Register 35 (25 October 1828): 130.

95. C. O. Cathey, "Sidney Weller: Ante-Bellum Promoter of Agricultural Reform," North Carolina Historical Review 31 (January 1954): 5.

96. C. O. Cathey, Agricultural Developments in North Carolina, 1783-1860 (Chapel Hill, N.C., 1956), p. 155.

97. American Farmer 9 (6 April 1827): 22.

98. David Ramsay, The History of South-Carolina (Charleston, S.C., 1809), 2:224.

99. American Farmer 7 (6 January 1826): 329.

100. Ramsay, History of South-Carolina , 2:224.

101. Bailey, Evolution of Our Native Fruits , pp. 13-14.

102. Anon., "A Memorial on the Practicability of Growing Vineyards in South Carolina," p. 16. The speaker identifies himself as a "stranger" (p. 11) and a "foreigner" (p. 12).

103. John Drayton, A View of South Carolina (Charleston, S.C., 1802), p. 212; James Mease, ed., Domestic Encyclopaedia (Philadelphia, 1803-4), 5:325.

104. James Guignard to William Prince, 30 December 1844 (Prince Papers, National Agricultural Library); Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1847 , p. 468.

105. Constantine Rafinesque, MS notes on vineyards, American Philosophical Society; Samuel Maverick to Thomas Jefferson, 11 August 1821, in Betts, ed., Jefferson's Garden Book , pp. 597-98.

106. "Journal of a Visit to Greenville from Charleston in the Summer of 1825," South Carolina Historical Magazine 72 (1971): 222.

107. The Grape Culturist 1 (1869): 173.

108. American Farmer 12 (2 April 1830): 21.

109. American Farmer 9 (4 January 1828): 333.

110. American Farmer 11 (9 October 1829): 237.

111. "Autobiography of William John Grayson," South Carolina Historical Magazine 69 ( 1949): 95.

112. "A Treatise on the Culture of the Vine" (Baltimore, 1833). I have not seen a copy.

113. Nicholas Herbemont, American Farmer 8 (8 September 1826): 196.

114. American Farmer 9 (4 January 1828): 332-33.

115. American Farmer 7 (6 January 1826): 329.

116. Niles' Register 33 (12 January 1828): 321.

117. American Farmer 6 (11 February 1825): 369-70; 8 (19, 26 May, 2 June 1826): 69-70, 77-78, 82-83.

118. James C. Bonner, "The Georgia Wine Industry on the Eve of. the Civil War," Georgia Historical Quarterly 41 (1957): 21.

119. Adlum, "Adlum on Making Wine," p. 13; American Farmer 6 (11 February 1825): 369

120. Stephen Franks Miller, The Bench and Bar of Georgia (Philadelphia, 1858), 1: 399.

121. American Farmer 6 (11 February 1825): 369.

122. Rafinesque worked in Adlum's Georgetown vineyard in 1825: "It was there that I began to study better our vines" (Rafinesque, "A Life of Travels," Chronica Botanica 8, no. 2 [1944]: 326). Rafinesque gave the name Adlumia to the Allegheny smoke vine.

123. Constantine Rafinesque, Medical Flora, or Manual of the Medical Botany of the United States of America (Philadelphia, 1830), 2:159-60.

1. See, e.g., Robert Buchanan, The Culture of the Grape, and Wine-Making , 5th ed. (Cincinnati, 1854), p. 6i.

2. Ophia D. Smith, "Early Gardens and Orchards," Bulletin of the Historical and Philosophical Society of Ohio 7 (April 1949): 72.

3. American State Papers, Public Lands , 1:256-57 (3 February 1806).

4. On Longworth generally, see Clara Longworth de Chambrun, The Making of Nicholas Longworth (New York, 1933); and Louis Leonard Tucker, "'Old Nick' Longworth: The Paradoxical Maecenas of Cincinnati," Cincinnati Historical Society Bulletin 25 (1967): 246-59.

5. Nicholas Longworth, "The Grape and Manufacture of Wine," in The Western Agriculturist and Practical Farmer's Guide (Cincinnati, 1830), p. vii.

6. Date derived from Robert Buchanan's statement in 1850 that Longworth's oldest vineyard dated from twenty-seven years earlier (Buchanan, A Treatise on Grape Culture in Vineyards, in the Vicinity of Cincinnati [Cincinnati, 1850], p. 18).

7. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1847 (Washington, D.C., 1848), p. 462.

8. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 106.

9. Ibid., p. 23. As early as 1832 Longworth had written: "I regret that more attention has not been bestowed in collecting native grapes from our forests and prairies. To them, and new varieties raised from their seed, we must resort, if we wish success" (Longworth to H. A. S. Dearborn, 10 October 1832, American Farmer 14 [21 December 1832]: 326).

8. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 106.

9. Ibid., p. 23. As early as 1832 Longworth had written: "I regret that more attention has not been bestowed in collecting native grapes from our forests and prairies. To them, and new varieties raised from their seed, we must resort, if we wish success" (Longworth to H. A. S. Dearborn, 10 October 1832, American Farmer 14 [21 December 1832]: 326).

10. Longworth, "The Grape and Manufacture of Wine," p. 305.

11. Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York, 1898), p. 61.

12. Thomas Trollope, What I Remember (New York, 1888), p. 122.

13. Frances Trollope, Domestic Manners of the Americans , 5th ed. (New York, 1927), p. 6n.

14. Trollope, What I Remember , p. 122.

15. Buchanan, Treatise on Grape Culture , p. 58.

16. John F. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba': Grape Growing and Wine Making in Cincinnati, 1800-1870" (M.A. thesis, University of Cincinnati, 1964), p. 39.

17. Ibid., pp. 18, 22, 41.

16. John F. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba': Grape Growing and Wine Making in Cincinnati, 1800-1870" (M.A. thesis, University of Cincinnati, 1964), p. 39.

17. Ibid., pp. 18, 22, 41.

18. Longworth, "The Grape and Manufacture of Wine," p. 205.

19. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 22.

20. Committee on Wines, Cincinnati Horticultural Society, "Report on Wines" (1845), in Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1845 (Senate Documents, 29th Cong., 1st sess., no. 307, pp. 950-52).

21. Horticulturist 2 (1847-48): 318.

22. American Agriculturist 9 (1850): 119.

23. Horticulturist 2 (1847-48): 383; Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 58.

24. The Cultivator , 3d ser., 6 (September 1858): 276.

25. "Longworth's Wine House" (Cincinnati, n.d. [c. 1864]). Copy in the Library of Congress.

26. The Cultivator , 3d ser., 6: 275. Fournier may have brought other Frenchmen from Champagne with him: a visitor to Longworth's wine cellar in 1855, after remarking that the practice there was identical with that followed in Epernay, added: "Indeed, all the men employed in the cellar are from that neighborhood" (Charles Weld, A Vacation Tour in the United States and Canada [London, 1855], p. 209). After ten years in Cincinnati, Fournier returned to France "with a snug fortune acquired in America" (William J. Flagg, Three Seasons in European Vineyards [New York, 1869], p. 148).

27. American Agriculturist 5 (1846): 351.

28. Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue of the Great Exhibition (London, 1851), 3: 1433.

29. Louis Leonard Tucker, "Hiram Powers and Cincinnati," Bulletin of the Cincinnati Historical Society 25 (January 1967): 37-38.

30. Sludge says of Champagne, "I took it for Catawba" ("Mr. Sludge, the Medium," line 9).

31. First published in the Atlantic Monthly , January 1858.

32. De Chambrun, Longworth , pp. 31-32.

33. The Cultivator , 3d ser., 6 (1858): 275.

34. Charles Mackay, Illustrated London News , 20 March 1858, p. 297. Catawba has had a singular success among the poets. In addition to the effusions of Longfellow and Mackay, another, by one William Fosdick, appeared in the Cincinnati Daily Commercial of 11 December 1855: the poet apostrophizes the grape as, among other things, "the rarest of all vines the fair Catawba."

35. Isabella Trotter, First Impressions of the New World on Two Travellers from the Old (London, 1859), p. 2o7.

36. W. J. Flagg, "Wine in America, and American Wine," Harper's Magazine 41 (June 187o): 111. Flagg was Longworth's son-in-law and a former manager of the Longworth Winery.

37. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 59; Paul Cross Morrison, "Viticulture in Ohio," Economic Geography 12 (1936): 73; Bureau of the Census, Agriculture of the United States in 1860 (Washington, D.C., 1864), p. 186.

38. Cozzens' Wine Press 1 (20 September 1854): 25.

39. See Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" especially ch. 5.

40. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1853, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1854), pp. 299, 310; Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 2d ed., pp. 61, 116; American Farmer , 4th ser., 14 (December 1858): 198.

41. E.g., Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 50.

42. Harper's Weekly 2 (24 July 1858): 472.

43. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 61.

44. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1850, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1851), pp. 238-41; Horticulturist 4 (1849-50): 397.

45. Horticulturist 4 (1849-50): 397; Buchanan, Culture of the Vine , 5th ed., pp. 28ff.

46. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1868 (Washington, D.C., 1869), p. 575.

47. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1850 , p. 241.

48. Western Horticultural Review 1 (1850-51): 293.

49. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 55.

50. But for a rival claim, see p. ooo and the Gasconade Grape Growing Society.

51. Official Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue of the Great Exhibition , 3: 1433.

52. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 54.

53. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 93.

54. Ibid., p. 32.

55. Ibid., pp. 32, 40, 54.

53. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 93.

54. Ibid., p. 32.

55. Ibid., pp. 32, 40, 54.

53. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape , 5th ed., p. 93.

54. Ibid., p. 32.

55. Ibid., pp. 32, 40, 54.

56. See, e.g., Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" pp. 68-71; 77-80.

57. Cozzens' Wine Press 1 (20 August 1854): 18.

58. Buchanan, Culture of the Vine , 5th ed., p. iii; American Farmer , 4th ser., 14 (December 1858): 198; Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 67.

59. U. P. Hedrick, The Grapes of New York (Albany, N.Y., 1908), p. 313; Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" pp. 72-73.

60. James Parton, "Cincinnati," Atlantic Monthly 20 (1867): 240.

61. Flagg, "Wine in America," p. 112; De Chambrun, Longworth , p. 104, says it was taken over by Moerlein's, a German brewery.

62. Flagg, "Wine in America," p. 112.

63. George C. Huntington, "Historical Sketch of Kelley's Island," Fire Lands Pioneer 4 (June 1863): 46.

64. See Huntington, "Historical Sketch of Kelley's Island"; Bert Hudgins, "The South Bass Island Community (Put-in-Bay)," Economic Geography 19 (January 1943): 16-36; J. R. McGrew, "A Brief History of Grapes and Wine in Ohio to 1865," American Wine Society Journal 16 (9184): 38-41.

65. Morrison, "Viticulture in Ohio," p. 74.

66. Von Daacke, "'Sparkling Catawba,'" p. 45.

67. Harlow Lindley, ed., Indiana as Seen by Early Travellers (Indianapolis, 1916), p. 8.

68. John James Dufour, The American Vine-Dresser's Guide (Cincinnati, 1826), p. 214.

69. Dufour, for example, repeats the statement: Vine-Dresser's Guide , p. 18.

70. Gottfried Duden, Bericht über eine Reise nach den Westlichen Staaten Nordamerikas (Elberfeld, 1829).

71. For Duden's influence on German settlement in Missouri, see William G. Bek, "Gottfried Duden's 'Report,' 1824-1827," Missouri Historical Review 12 (October 1917): 1-9.

72. William G. Bek, The German Settlement Sociefy of Philadelphia and Its Colony Hermann, Missouri (Philadelphia, 1907), p. I. For the details in the rest of this paragraph, see Bek, pp. 44-45, 55, 59.

73. Charles Van Ravenswaay, The Arts and Architecture of German Settlements in Missouri (Columbia, Mo., 1977), p. 48.

74. Ibid., pp. 51-52.

73. Charles Van Ravenswaay, The Arts and Architecture of German Settlements in Missouri (Columbia, Mo., 1977), p. 48.

74. Ibid., pp. 51-52.

75. Bek, German Settlement Society , p. 46.

76. Michael Poeschel, quoted in Henry Lewis, Valley of the Mississippi Illustrated (St. Paul, 1967), pp. 262-63.

77. Friedrich Muench, "Vine-Culture in Missouri" (MS, Harvard University, 1967), p. 1.

78. George Husmann, The Cultivation of the Native Grape, and Manufacture of American Wines (New York, 1866), p. 18.

79. Bek, German Settlement Society , p. 152.

80. Ibid., p. 153.

79. Bek, German Settlement Society , p. 152.

80. Ibid., p. 153.

81. J. T. Scharf, History of St. Louis (Philadelphia, 1883), 2: 1329.

82. Husmann, Cultivation of the Native Grape , p. 20.

83. George Husmann, An Essay on the Culture of the Grape in the Great West (Hermann, Mo., 1863), pp. 36, 40.

84. Muench, "Vine-Culture in Missouri," p. 2; Husmann, Cultivation of the Native Grape , p. 18, says that a Mr. Heinrichs brought the Norton to Hermann and that Wiedersprecher first grew it.

85. As early as 1851 Muench was exploring the Ozark region of Missouri hoping to find varieties of grape resistant to the rot: Muench, "Vine-Culture in Missouri," p. 2.

86. W.J. Flagg, Three Seasons in European Vineyards (New York, 1869), p. 97.

87. Charles Loring Brace, The New West, or, California in 1867-68 (New York, 1869), p. 291.

88. George Husmann, for example, made 2,000 gallons of catawba at Hermann in 1857, but in 1858 only 200 gallons from the same acreage ( Cultivation of the Native Grape , p. 181); Hermann's entire

production of catawba wine in 1857 was 90,000 gallons; in 1858, 15,000 gallons (Muench, "Vine-Culture in Missouri," p. 5).

89. Eight thousand gallons of catawba were consigned from Hermann to Longworth in 1858, at $1.25 a gallon ( DeBow's Review 24 [1858]: 449). It is only fair to Cincinnati to say that, at the New York Exhibition of 1854, Cincinnati wines took both silver and bronze medals, Missouri wines nothing higher than honorable mentions ( Cozzens' Wine Press 1 [20 September 1854]: 25).

90. History of Franklin, Jefferson, Washington, Crawford and Gasconade Counties (Chicago, 1888), pp. 672-73, 1112, 1119.

91. American Agriculturist 20 (December 1862): 368-69.

92. Husmann, Cultivation of the Native Grape , pp. 24, 183, 190, 191.

93. Lewis, Valley of the Mississippi Illustrated , p. 262.

94. On Muench, see Julius T. Muench, "A Sketch of the Life and Work of Friedrich Muench," Missouri Historical Society Collections 3 (1908): 132-44.

95. George Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making , 4th ed. (New York, 1895), pp. 263-64.

96. It is based on Husmann's earlier "Essay on the Culture of the Grape in Missouri," published in 1859 as part of the Report of the Fourth Annual Fair of the St. Louis Agricultural and Mechanical Association, St. Louis, 1859. The 1859 essay was awarded a prize of $15 by the association.

97. A biographical sketch of Husmann appears in the Dictionary of American Biography .

98. Husmann, Cultivation of the Native Grape , p. 159.

99. Isidore Bush and Son, Illustrated Descriptive Catalogue of Grape Vines, Small Fruit, and Potatoes (St. Louis, 1869).

100. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 352; id., Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards (New York, 1945), p. 150.

101. A Toast to Ontario Wines (1979), p. 7.

102. William G. Bek, "The Followers of Duden," Missouri Historical Review 17 (1922): 333.

103. For a biographical sketch of Engelmann, see the Dictionary of American Biography .

104. For Bush, see Jacob Furth, "Sketch of Isidor Bush," Missouri Historical Society Collections 4 (1912-23): 303-8.

105. "Biographical Sketch" reprinted from American Academy of Arts and Sciences, Proceedings 20, in The Botanical Works of the Late George Engelmann , ed. William Trelease and Asa Gray (Cambridge, Mass., 1887), 1: vi.

106. Gustave Koerner, Memoirs, 1809-1896 , ed. T.J. McCormack (Cedar Rapids, Iowa, 1909), 1: 296-97.

107. Ibid., 2: 633.

106. Gustave Koerner, Memoirs, 1809-1896 , ed. T.J. McCormack (Cedar Rapids, Iowa, 1909), 1: 296-97.

107. Ibid., 2: 633.

108. Oswald Garrison Villard, "The 'Latin Peasants' of Belleville, Illinois," Journal of the Illinois State Historical Society 35 (1942): 14; Maynard Amerine, "Hilgard and California Viticulture," Hilgardia 33 (July 1962): 2.

109. For Eugene Hilgard's work in California, see below, pp. 351-52. A life of Hilgard appears in the Dictionary of American Biography .

110. Leon Adams, The Wines of America (Boston, 1973), p. 139.

111. DeBow's Review 24 (1858): 550.

112. Cozzens' Wine Press 3 (20 January 1857): 57.

113. Guido Rossati, Relazione di un viaggio d'istruzione negli Stati Uniti d'America (Rome, 1900), pp. 117-18; Scharf, History of St. Louis , 2: 1329-30. Another Missouri enterprise was the St. Louis Vine and Fruit Growers Association, with vineyards of European grapes at Vinelands in 1861: after visiting the association's vineyards, a committee of inspection prophesied that the highlands south and west of St. Louis would "rival France and Germany" (unidentified clipping, 18 September 1861, Hayes Scrapbooks, Bancroft Library).

114. Walter B. Stevens, St. Louis (Chicago and St. Louis, 1909), 3:916-18.

115. Alden Spooner, The Cultivation of American Grape Vines and Making of Wine (Brooklyn, 1846), p. 9; Bailey, Evolution of Our Native Fruits , p. 94.

116. This very un-Anglo-Saxon effusion sounds better in its native French: "Protège mes faibles écrites. . . protège ma vigne, fais qu'elle prospère et que je puisse bientôt faire des libations sur ta tombe en y pressant le doux Muscat et le suave Malvoisie."

117. Farmer's Register 2 (March 1835): 614.

118. Buchanan, Culture of the Grape (1852), p. 25.

119. Henry R. Stiles, A History of the City of Brooklyn (Albany, N.Y., 1869), 2: 135-36n.

120. Three generations of Princes figure in the Dictionary of American Biography .

121. The catalogue is printed as an appendix to William Robert Prince, Treatise on tile Vine (New York, 1830).

122. Hedrick, Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards , p. 148. Prince's book was written with the assistance of his father, William Prince, and drew largely upon the elder Prince's Short Treatise on Horticulture (New York, 1828), which devotes some thirty pages to a description of the Linnaean Garden's stock of vines, both native and foreign.

123. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 353.

124. Ibid. Prince names seventy-four correspondents.

125. Ibid., p. vii.

123. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 353.

124. Ibid. Prince names seventy-four correspondents.

125. Ibid., p. vii.

123. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 353.

124. Ibid. Prince names seventy-four correspondents.

125. Ibid., p. vii.

126. The Isabella was widely grown in the Carolinas in the eighteenth century: see Hedrick, Grapes of New York , pp. 308-9.

127. Prince, Treatise on the Fine , p. 166. The Isabella was one of the varieties most favored in Europe during experimentation with American vines in the phylloxera years; it is now, according to Pierre Galet, the most widely planted grape in the world—from Canada to Africa, from Fiji to the Balkans ( American Wine Society Journal 13 [Spring 1981]: 19).

128. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 166.

129. Ibid., pp. 321-24. Prince had recommended sulfur and lime in an earlier article in the American Farmer 11 (10 July 1829): 132.

128. Prince, Treatise on the Vine , p. 166.

129. Ibid., pp. 321-24. Prince had recommended sulfur and lime in an earlier article in the American Farmer 11 (10 July 1829): 132.

130. Stiles, History of Brooklyn , 2: 135.

131. American Farmer 11 (16 October 1829): 243; entry on Parmentier in the Dictionary of American Biography .

132. American Farmer 11 (26 February 1830): 396.

133. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , pp. 23-24.

134. Spooner, Cultivation of American Grape Vines , pp. 57-59; Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 24.

135. The Cultivator , 3d ser., 7 (March 1859): 99.

136. American Agriculturist 19 (February 1860): 61.

137. Leon Adams, The Wines of America , 3d ed. (New York, 1985), p. 149.

138. On Stephen Underhill's work, see Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 226n.

139. Alexander Jackson Downing in The Horticulturist 2 (1847-48): 122.

140. Conway Zirkle, "Beginnings of Plant Hybridization," Agricultural History 43 (1969): 33.

141. Adams, Wines of America , 3d ed., pp. 151-52. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 55, says that Jaques's vineyard was planted in 1837; if so, this makes it unlikely that he could have been producing wine in 1839.

142. Philip Wagner, American Wines and Wine-Making (New York, 1956), p. 77.

143. See Hedrick, Grapes of New York , pp. 82-83.

144. Goldsmith Denniston, "Grape Culture in Steuben County," Transactions of the New York State Agricultural Society, 1864 (Albany, N.Y., 1865). For a recent survey of early Finger Lakes wine history, see Dick Sherer, "Finger Lakes Grape Pioneers," Vineyard View (Hammondsport, N.Y.), Autumn 1983, p. 14.

145. W. W. Clayton, History of Steuben County, N.Y . (Philadelphia, 1879), p. 379.

146. Ibid., p. 380.

147. Ibid., p. 96.

145. W. W. Clayton, History of Steuben County, N.Y . (Philadelphia, 1879), p. 379.

146. Ibid., p. 380.

147. Ibid., p. 96.

145. W. W. Clayton, History of Steuben County, N.Y . (Philadelphia, 1879), p. 379.

146. Ibid., p. 380.

147. Ibid., p. 96.

148. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 54.

149. Ibid., p. 83.

148. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 54.

149. Ibid., p. 83.

150. Denniston, "Grape Culture in Steuben County," pp. 133-34; Clayton, History of Steuben County , P. 97.

151. Denniston, "Grape Culture in Steuben County," p. 134.

152. American Wine Press and Mineral Water Review 1 (1 March 1897): 7; Hedrick, Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards , p. 184.

153. Information from Mr. Charles D. Champlin, who also states that the Massons are not related to the Paul Masson of the California winery.

154. Denniston, "Grape Culture in Steuben County," p. 134.

155. Hedrick, Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards , p. 184.

156. William McMurtrie, Report upon the Statistics of Grape Culture and Wine Production in the United States for 1880 , U.S. Department of Agriculture Special Report no. 36 (Washington, D.C., 1881), p. 84.

157. George Howell Morris, "Rise of the Grape and Wine Industry in the Naples Valley during the Nineteenth Century" (M.A. thesis, Syracuse University, 1955), pp. 38, 45.

158. The Cultivator 6 (November 1858): 338; 7 (May 1859): 143.

159. Lewis Cass Aldrich, History of Yates County, N.Y . (Syracuse, N.Y., 1892), p. 241.

160. Raymond Chambers, "The Chautauqua Grape Industry," New York History 16 (July 1935): 249-50.

161. John Downs, ed., History of Chautauqua County (New York, 1921), 2: 28.

162. Ibid., 2: 28-29; Chambers, "Chautauqua Grape Industry," p. 254, puts this in 1854.

161. John Downs, ed., History of Chautauqua County (New York, 1921), 2: 28.

162. Ibid., 2: 28-29; Chambers, "Chautauqua Grape Industry," p. 254, puts this in 1854.

163. Chambers, "Chautauqua Grape Industry," p. 260; Downs, History of Chautauqua County , 1: 69; 2: 29; 3: 677-78.

1. An account of experiments with seedlings in the first half of the nineteenth century has been written by J. R. McGrew in "A History of American Grape Varieties before 1900," American Wine Society Journal 14 (Spring 1982): 3-5.

2. In 1828 the Bouschets in France developed hybrid grapes for the sake of producing varieties with greater color. But no one seems to have attempted a hybrid that would be a general advance over the varieties already available.

3. Since MacMahon was secretary to the Pennsylvania Vineyard Company founded by Legaux, his recognition that the Alexander is a native hybrid is especially interesting, for it contradicts Legaux's assertion that the Alexander was a vinifera, the "Cape" grape, as he called it. Was MacMahon condoning a fraud when he allowed Legaux to say so? Or did he not recognize the identity of his company's "Cape" with the Alexander?

4. Bernard MacMahon, The American Gardener's Calendar (Philadelphia, 1806), p. 235.

5. John James Dufour, The American Vine-Dresser's Guide (Cincinnati, 1826), pp. 39, 306.

6. William Robert Prince, Treatise on the Vine (New York, 1830), p. 224.

7. Ibid., pp. 252-53.

8. Ibid., p. 254.

6. William Robert Prince, Treatise on the Vine (New York, 1830), p. 224.

7. Ibid., pp. 252-53.

8. Ibid., p. 254.

6. William Robert Prince, Treatise on the Vine (New York, 1830), p. 224.

7. Ibid., pp. 252-53.

8. Ibid., p. 254.

9. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Yearbook, 1899 (Washington, D.C., 1900), p. 475; U. P. Hedrick, The Grapes of New York (Albany, N.Y., 1908), p. 501.

10. Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York, 1898), p. 70.

11. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 56.

12. Ibid., p. 166.

13. Ibid., p. 165.

11. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 56.

12. Ibid., p. 166.

13. Ibid., p. 165.

11. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 56.

12. Ibid., p. 166.

13. Ibid., p. 165.

14. The life of Rogers appears in the Dictionary of American Biography .

15. George W. Campbell, "The Grape and Its Improvement by Hybridizing, Cross-Breeding, and Seedlings," Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1862 (Washington, D.C.,'1863), p. 215.

16. Ibid., p. 216.

15. George W. Campbell, "The Grape and Its Improvement by Hybridizing, Cross-Breeding, and Seedlings," Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1862 (Washington, D.C.,'1863), p. 215.

16. Ibid., p. 216.

17. Dictionary of American Biography , s.v. "Rogers, Edward Staniford."

18. For Campbell, see the Dictionary of National Biography ; for Ricketts, see Hedrick, Grapes of New York , pp. 318-19; and for Haskell, his autobiography, A Narrative of the Life, Experience, and Work of an American Citizen (Ipswich, Mass., 1896).

19. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 251; Kansas State Horticultural Society, Transactions, 1871 (Topeka, 1872), pp. 72-75; id., Transactions, 1872 (Topeka, 1873), pp. 54-59.

20. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 192.

21. Mark Miller, Wine — A Gentleman's Game (New York, 1984), pp. 23-24.

22. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 231.

23. Ibid., pp. 232-33. One pleasingly romantic notion was that the Delaware was a seedling of the Traminer vines that Joseph Bonaparte had tried to grow in his exile at Bordentown, New Jer-

22. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 231.

23. Ibid., pp. 232-33. One pleasingly romantic notion was that the Delaware was a seedling of the Traminer vines that Joseph Bonaparte had tried to grow in his exile at Bordentown, New Jer-

sey (Friedrich Muench, in George Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making [New York, 1880], p. 180).

24. Bailey, Evolution of Our Native Fruits , pp. 71-72.

25. For Grant, see Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 304.

26. Gardener's Monthly 7 (1865): 52.

27. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 58 .

28. American Agriculturist 25 (September 1866): 338.

29. See Henry Christman, "Iona Island and the Fruit Growers' Convention of 1864," New York History 48 (1967): 332-51.

30. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 305.

31. Philip Wagner, A Wine-Grower's Guide (New York, 1955), p. 210.

32. U. P. Hedrick, Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards (New York, 1945), p. 167.

33. Ibid., p. 149.

32. U. P. Hedrick, Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards (New York, 1945), p. 167.

33. Ibid., p. 149.

34. For Bull, see the Dictionary of American Biography and the series of articles by W.J. Burtscher, "Ephraim Bull and the Concord Grape," American Fruit Grower 65 (1945): 12, 24, 26, 28-29, 35.

35. Fifth Annual Report of the Secretary, Massachusetts Board of Agriculture (Boston, 1858), p. 197.

36. American Agriculturist 12 (1854): 37.

37. Bailey, Evolution of Our Native Fruits , p. 72.

38. The dominance of the Concord has also created a confusion in this country about Kosher wines, which are popularly held to be sweet, "grapey" wines. The idea grew up from the accidental circumstance that Kosher winemakers in the East, where the earliest large Jewish communities were located, found that Concord grapes were what they mainly had to work with. Naturally, they, too, had to sugar their Concord wines in order to make them palatable. But any wine—dry, sweet, red, white—may be Kosher. Had the Jewish communities in this country been in California rather than in New York, American Kosher wine would have been a very different thing—as it still may be.

39. American Agriculturist 23 (November 1864): 310; 24 (February 1865): 59; 25 (October 1866): 439; Hedrick, Grapes of New York , p. 220.

40. This is one of the details that remain obscure: were there three generations, or only two, required to produce the Concord?

41. Wagner, American Wines and Wine-Making , P. 35.

42. So Bull stated in an address in 1866, adding: "I will not denounce those as intemperate, who use pure wine without being intoxicated by its use" (quoted in F. Clark, Regulation versus Prohibition [Lowell, Mass., 1866], p. 20).

43. William Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice (Syracuse, N.Y., 1977), p. 40.

44. Bailey, Evolution of Our Native Fruits , p. 1.

45. Hedrick, History of Horticulture , p. 507.

46. J. N. Primm, Economic Policy in the Development of a Western State: Missouri, 1820-1860 (Cambridge, Mass., 1954), p. 115.

47. Western Horticultural Review I (1850-51): 293.

48. See Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1867 (Washington, D.C., 1868), pp. 388, 392; Southern Cultivator 16 (1858): 312; Johann Becker, Der Weinbau (Evansville, Ind., 1860), Nachtrage; American Agriculturist 25 (November 1866); U.S. Department of Agriculture, List of Agricultural Societies (Washington, D.C., 1876) (for Nauvoo); American Agriculturist 27 (April 1868): 130; Grape Culturist 1 (1869): 28.

49. The appeal of Peter Chazotte, in 1822, for example, for a subsidy to undertake the "culture of vines, olives, capers, almonds, etc." in the southern United States (he had Florida in mind) met with no success ( American State Papers, Public Lands [Washington, D.C. 1834], 3: 460ff). Yet two years later the Marquis de Lafayette was granted lands in Florida for the cultivation of the vine and olive ( Florida Historical Sorely Quarterly 1 [July 1908]: 10-11).

50. Henry Leavitt Ellsworth, when commissioner of patents, took a great interest in promoting agriculture, and persuaded Congress in 1839 to give $1,000 towards the cost of distributing seeds, carrying out agricultural experiments, and gathering statistics. This was the beginning of government aid to agriculture in the United States: see the caption to frontispiece, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Yearbook 1902 (Washington, D.C., 1903).

51. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1859, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1860), p. 39.

52. Ibid., p. 70.

53. Ibid., p. 17; Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1863 (Washington, D.C., 1863), pp. 548-49; 1864, p. 10; 1865, pp. 13-16; 1866, pp. 18-19, 97-114.

51. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1859, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1860), p. 39.

52. Ibid., p. 70.

53. Ibid., p. 17; Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1863 (Washington, D.C., 1863), pp. 548-49; 1864, p. 10; 1865, pp. 13-16; 1866, pp. 18-19, 97-114.

51. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1859, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1860), p. 39.

52. Ibid., p. 70.

53. Ibid., p. 17; Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1863 (Washington, D.C., 1863), pp. 548-49; 1864, p. 10; 1865, pp. 13-16; 1866, pp. 18-19, 97-114.

54. Especially the system devised by William Kniffen: see U. P. Hedrick, Manual of American Grape-Growing (New York, 1924), pp. 132-36.

55. U. P. Hedrick, History of Horticulture in America to 1860 (New York, 1950), p. 286.

56. C. O. Cathey, "Sidney Weller," North Carolina Historical Review 31: 1-17.

57. Cultivator 8 (September 1841): 151.

58. American Agriculturist 7 (1848): 58-60.

59. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1853, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1854), pp. 306-9.

60. Cozzens' Wine Press 4 (20 April 1858): 186.

61. See p. 415 below.

62. According to the sixth U.S. census.

63. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1849, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1850), pp. 283-86.

64. See Clarence Gohdes, Scuppernong: North Carolina's Grape and Its Wines (Durham, N.C., 1982), pp. 19-22.

65. Joseph Togno, Southern Cultivator 11 (1853): 298.

66. Western Horticultural Review 3 (1852- 53): 479.

67. Thomas Ruffin, Papers of Thomas Ruffin , ed. J. G. deR. Hamilton (Raleigh, N.C., 1918-20), 3:98.

68. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1859, Part II , p. 54o.

69. J. C. W. McDonnald's interest went back to 1825, when he had petitioned the state legislature to support a scheme to import Italian vineyard workers: see p. 153 above. He had 110 acres of vines in 1860 ( Southern Cultivator 18 [1860]: 381).

70. Horticultural Review 4 (1854): 59-60.

71. See The Private Journal of Henry William Ravenel, 1859-1887 , ed. Arney Robinson Childs (Columbia, S.C., 1947), pp. 19, 25, 31, 86, 87.

72. DeBow's Review , n.s., 2 (1866): 269.

73. Achille de Caradeuc, Grape Culture and Winemaking in the South (Augusta, Ga., 1858), p. 6.

74. South Carolina Historical Magazine 49 (1949): 95.

75. For the details of this paragraph and the next, see James C. Bonner, "The Georgia Wine Industry on the Eve of the Civil War," Georgia Historical Quarterly 41 (1957): 19-30.

76. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1858, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1859), p. 372.

77. American Agriculturist 19 (June 1860): 186.

78. Ibid., p. 186.

77. American Agriculturist 19 (June 1860): 186.

78. Ibid., p. 186.

79. Southern Planter 20 (June 1860): 383.

80. The names of European wine types were also freely used; no one, however, seems to have thought that they should be permanently used.

81. Southern Planter 20: 383.

82. Proceedings of the Southern Vine Growers' Convention, Aiken, South Carolina, 1860 (Augusta, Ga., 1860), p. 11.

83. Bureau of the Census, Agriculture of the United States in 1860 (Washington, D.C., 1864), p. 28; Compendium of the Ninth Census (June 1, 1870) (Washington, D.C., 1872), p. 704.

84. Bonner, "The Georgia Wine Industry on the Eve of the Civil War," p. 28n.

85. Ben H. McClary and LeRoy P. Graf, "'Vineland' in Tennessee, 1852: The Journal of Rosine Parmentier," East Tennessee Historical Society Publications , no. 31 (1959), PP. 95-111. For a contemporary reference, see American Farmer , n.s., 14 (November 1858): 152-54.

86. Horticultural Review 4 (1854): 311-12. A far earlier pioneer had been Dr. Felix Robertson, who planted ten acres of native vines in Tennessee in 1810 but gave up around 1820 ( Southern Cultivator 15 [1857]: 96-97).

87. Cozzens' Wine Press 3 (20 January 1857): 60.

88. The Autobiography of Mark Twain , ed. Charles Neider (New York, 1959), pp. 18, 218.

89. United Kingdom, Parliamentary Papers 30 (1859): 203.

90. Ibid., p. 206.

89. United Kingdom, Parliamentary Papers 30 (1859): 203.

90. Ibid., p. 206.

91. The great seal of the state of Connecticut exhibits fruit-laden grapevines under the motto

of "Sustinet Qui Transtulit"—roughly, "Who transplants, sustains." The viticulture in question is wholly symbolic, though real vineyards are now being planted in the state.

1. E. R. Forrest, Missions and Pueblos of the Old Southwest (Cleveland, 1929), p. 159.

2. Maynard Amerine and Brian St. Pierre, "Grapes and Wine in the United States, 1600-1979," in Edward L. and Frederick H. Schapsmeier, eds., Agriculture in the West (Manhattan, Kans., 1980), pp. 108-13; A. J. Winkler et al., General Viticulture (Berkeley, 1974), pp. 3-4.

3. Josiah Gregg, The Commerce of the Prairies , ed. Milo Quaife (Chicago, 1926), pp. 150;-51.

4. W. W. H. Davis, El Gringo, or New Mexico and Her People (Santa Fe, 1938), p. 193.

5. C. W. Hackett, ed., Historical Documents Relating to New Mexico, Nueva Vizcaya, and Approaches Thereto, to 1773 (Washington, D.C., 1923-37), 3: 406.

6. Don Pedro Bautista Pino, Exposición , in Three New Mexico Chronicles , ed. H. B. Carroll and J. V. Haggard (Albuquerque, 1942), pp. 35, 97.

7. John T. Hughes, Doniphan's Expedition , reprinted in W. E. Connelly, Doniphan's Expedition and the Conquest of New Mexico and California (Topeka, 1907), p. 393.

8. Ibid., p. 393.

7. John T. Hughes, Doniphan's Expedition , reprinted in W. E. Connelly, Doniphan's Expedition and the Conquest of New Mexico and California (Topeka, 1907), p. 393.

8. Ibid., p. 393.

9. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1859, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1860), pp. 38-39.

10. Cozzens' Wine Press 5 (20 May 1859): 90.

11. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1859, Part II , p. 39.

12. William H. Emory, Report on the United States and Mexican Boundary Survey (Washington, D.C., 1857), 1: 49.

13. Irving McKee, "The Beginnings of California Winegrowing," Historical Society of Southern California Quarterly 29 (1947): 59-60.

14. See, e.g., Junípero Serra, Writings , ed. Antonine Tibeser, O.F.M. (Washington, D.C., 1955-66), 1: 263, 281.

15. Ibid., 5: 195.

14. See, e.g., Junípero Serra, Writings , ed. Antonine Tibeser, O.F.M. (Washington, D.C., 1955-66), 1: 263, 281.

15. Ibid., 5: 195.

16. Father Mugartegui to Serra, 15 March 1779, in Edith Buckland Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions (Los Angeles, 1952), p. 95.

17. "Alta California's First Vintage," in Doris Muscatine et al., eds., The University of California / Sotheby Book of California Wine (Berkeley and London, 1984), p. 15. This essay derives from Brady's earlier article, "The Swallow That Came from Capistrano," New West , 24 September 1979, pp. 55-59.

18. William Heath Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , ed. Harold A. Small (San Francisco, 1967), P. 5.

19. Hugo Reid, The Indians of Los Angeles County , ed. R. F. Heizer (Los Angeles, 1968), p. 79; Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions , pp. 96-97.

20. Eugene Duflot de Mofras, Travels on the Pacific Coast (Santa Ana, Calif., 1937), 1: 182; Hubert H. Bancroft, History of California (San Francisco, 1884-90), 5: 621-22n.; Maynard Geiger, Franciscan Missionaries in Hispanic California, 1769-1848 (San Marino, Calif., 1969), pp. 266-69.

21. Alfred Robinson, Life in California (Santa Barbara, 1970), p. 23.

22. Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions , p. 96.

23. Zephyrin Engelhardt, Missions and Missionaries of California (San Francisco, 1908-15), 3: 571—72·

24. Agoston Haraszthy, "Report on Grapes and Wines of California," in Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society 1858 (Sacramento, 1859), P. 312.

25. "Duhaut-Cilly's Account of California in the Years 1827-8," California Historical Society Quarterly 8 (1929): 228.

26. In 1834 San Luis Obispo, with forty-four acres of vineyard, was second to San Gabriel (Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions , p. 97). The fullest study of the mission statistics bearing on vineyards is by Jacob Bowman, "The Vineyards in Provincial California," Wine Review 11 (April-June 1943).

27. Engelhardt, Missions and Missionaries of California , 3: 571-72.

28. H. H. Bancroft, California Pastorat 1769-1848 (San Francisco, 1888), pp. 371-72; Haraszthy, "Report on Grapes and Wine of California," p. 312.

29. Webb, Indian Life at the Old Missions , pp. 98-99.

30. Robert Archibald, The Economic Aspects of the California Missions (Washington, D.C., 1978), does not treat wine as a part of the general commerce of the missions.

31. Harrison Clifford Dale, ed., The Ashley-Smith Explorations , rev. ed. (Glendale, Calif., 1941), p. 195.

32. Bancroft, History of California , 2: 476n.

33. A survey in 1845 showed substantial vineyards at San Fernando, Ventura, Santa Barbara, and San Juan Bautista (Bowman, ''Vineyards of Provincial California," Wine Review 11 [May 1943]: 24).

34. Geiger, Franciscan Missionaries in Hispanic California , p. 80.

35. Ibid.

34. Geiger, Franciscan Missionaries in Hispanic California , p. 80.

35. Ibid.

36. Duflot de Mofras, Travels on the Pacific Coast , 1: 172.

37. Antoine Deutschbein, "Warsaw Wine," in Claude Morny, ed., A Wine and Food Bedside Book (London, 1972), pp. 68-69.

38. Georg Langsdorff, Narrative of the Rezanov Voyage to Nueva California in 1806 , trans. Thomas C. Russell (San Francisco, 1927), p. 101.

39. The evidence consists of frequent assertions by Los Angeles winemakers at midcentury that they had vines fifty, sixty, and seventy years old or older in their vineyards. See, e.g., Matthew Keller in Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1858, Part II (Washington, D.C., 1859), p. 345; Ludwig Louis Salvator, Los Angeles in the Sunny Seventies (Los Angeles, 1929), p. 139; Ben C. Truman, Semi Tropical California (San Francisco, 1874), p. 59. Admittedly this is likely to be highly inaccurate evidence, but such statements could not be maintained without at least some plausible appearance of truth.

40. Bancroft, History of California , 1: 647-48, 659, 665-66, 674, 677, 692-93, 715-16.

41. Herbert Eugene Bolton, Fray Juan Crespi (Berkeley, 1927), p. 148. The native grape of southern California, Vitis girdiana , is wholly unfit for winemaking.

42. Robert Glass Cleland, The Cattle on a Thousand Hills (San Marino, Calif., 1941), p. 19.

43. Ruth Teiser and Catherine Harroun, Winemaking in California (New York, 1983), p. 16.

44. Herbert E. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production in California (San Francisco, 1941), pp. 37-38.

45. Paul T. Scott, "Why Joseph Chapman Adopted California and Why California Adopted Him," Historical Society of Southern California Quarterly 38 (1956): 239-46.

46. J. Gregg Layne, "Annals of Los Angeles," California Historical Society Quarterly 13 (1934): 206.

47. In nineteenth-century statistics, the size of vineyards was more often than not reported in number of vines rather than in acres. It is an exasperating practice, since there is no rule as to the spacing of vines, and there is evidence to show that planting densities varied greatly: at one extreme there might be 3,000 vines to an acre; at the other, only 700-800. A rule of thumb in southern California was 1,000 vines to the acre; in northern California it was usually fewer, say 650.

48. Ernest P. Peninou and Sidney S. Greenleaf, A Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers in 1860 (Berkeley, 1967), p. 15.

49. J. Albert Wilson, History of Los Angeles County (Oakland, 1880), p. 33; Bancroft, History of California , 2: 526; 4: 717; J.J. Warner, "Reminiscences of Early California—1831 to 1846," Annual Publications, Historical Society of California 7 (1908): 190.

50. For Domingo, see Warner, "Reminiscences," pp. 192-93.

51. Inventory dated 4 April 1852 (MS, Huntington Library).

52. Fernand Loyer and Charles Beaudreau, Le Guide français de Los Angeles et du sud de la Califorhie (Los Angeles, 1932), p. 20.

53. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 23, 40; Harris Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California, 1853-1913 , 4th ed. (Los Angeles, 1970), p. 200; Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 222.

54. Wilson, History of Los Angeles County , p. 64.

55. California Historical Society Quarterly 8 (1929): 246.

56. Daniel Lévy, Les Français en Californie (San Francisco, 1884), p. 64. For the life of Vignes, see especially Léonce Jore, "John Louis Vignes of Bordeaux, Pioneer of California Viticulture," Southern California Historical Society Quarterly 45 ( 1963): 289- 303.

57. Idwal Jones says that Vignes made his stake by coopering, but there is no evidence for the

assertion (Jones, Vines in the Sun [New York, 1949], p. 212). Vignes did, however, have casks and barrels of his own coopering (Pierre Sainsevain to Arpad Haraszthy, 22 June 1886 [Bancroft Library]).

58. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 91.

59. Irving McKee, "Jean Paul [ sic ] Vignes, California's First Professional Winegrower," Agricultural History 22 (July 1948): 178.

60. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 91.

61. Ibid.

62. Ibid., p. 92.

60. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 91.

61. Ibid.

62. Ibid., p. 92.

60. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 91.

61. Ibid.

62. Ibid., p. 92.

63. Duflot de Mofras, Travels , 1: 184-85.

64. McKee, "Vignes," p. 179.

65. Davis, Seventy-Five Years in California , p. 93.

66. For Wolfskill, see Iris Wilson, William Wolfskill, 1798-1866: Frontier Trapper to California Ranchero (Glendale, Calif., 1965).

67. Wilson, William Wolfskill , pp. 59, 72, 77, 82-86, 87, 99.

68. Ibid., pp. 157, 174, 176.

67. Wilson, William Wolfskill , pp. 59, 72, 77, 82-86, 87, 99.

68. Ibid., pp. 157, 174, 176.

69. Edwin Bryant, What I Saw in California (1849; reprint, Palo Alto, Calif., 1967), p. 412.

70. Wilson, William Wolfskill p. 158. The Sainsevain brothers anticipated Wolfskill's gift to Buchanan. A letter from the president to the Sainsevains of 14 January 1857 thanks them for their gift of wine and predicts the coming greatness of California as a winegrowing state (Buth Teiser and Catherine Harroun, Winemaking in California , p. 21).

71. W. H. Emory, Notes of a Military Reconnoissance flora Fort Leavenworth, in Missouri, to San Diego, in California , Senate Executive Documents, no. 7, 30th Cong., 1st sess. (Washington, D.C., 1848), p. 122.

72. "A Doctor Comes to California," California Historical Society Quarterly 21 (December 1942): 353.

73. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., p. 200.

74. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 24, 29.

75. Susanna Bryant Dakin, A Scotch Paisano in Old Los Angeles: Hugo Reid's Life in California, 1832-1852, Derived form His Correspondence (Berkeley, 1939), PP. 67, 69-70, 108, 113.

76. For Keller, see J. Gregg Layne, "Annals of Los Angeles," California Historical Society Quarterly 13: 315; Illustrated History of Los Angeles (Chicago, 1889), pp. 130-31; Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 19. Keller's article is "The Grapes and Wine of Los Angeles," in Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1858, Part II , pp. 344-48.

77. Bill of fare in Keller Papers, Huntington Library.

78. Keller to unidentified recipient, 13 April 1877 (Keller Papers).

79. 13 May 1878 (Keller Papers). Keller's doubtful standards of winemaking are also suggested by a remark in his obituary, that "he often said that there was no better than the ordinary Mission for all the purposes of a vigneron" (copy of unidentified newspaper obituary, 12 April 1881, Keller Papers).

80. J. De Barth Shorb to Mr. Leoser, 21 June 1877 (Shorb Papers, Huntington Library).

81. Walter Lindley and J. P. Widney, California of the South (New York, 1888), pp. 115-16.

82. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., p. 134.

83. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 (Sacramento, 1859), p. 285.

84. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 40.

85. Paul W. Gates, California Ranchos and Farms, 1846-1862 (Madison, Wis., 1967), pp. 116-17.

86. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 43

87. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1858, Part. II , p. 347.

88. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., pp. 202-3. The method of crushing by bare-footed Indians was still being used at the Pelanconi Winery in Los Angeles as late as 1876, but the practice was noted by that time as a curiosity (unidentified newspaper clipping [c. September 1976?], Huntington Scrap Books, vol. 1).

89. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., p. 25.

90. McKee, "Vignes," p. 179.

91. Ibid. It does not seem to have been the first in California. A letter from the Los Angeles winegrower T.J. White, dated 22 September 1855, states that White had sampled sparkling wine

90. McKee, "Vignes," p. 179.

91. Ibid. It does not seem to have been the first in California. A letter from the Los Angeles winegrower T.J. White, dated 22 September 1855, states that White had sampled sparkling wine

made by Benjamin D. Wilson ( California Farmer , 5 October 1855, p. 107). For Wilson and his Lake Vineyard, see p. 294.

92. McKee, "Vignes," p. 179.

93. Charles Kohler, Bancroft dictation, n.d. (MS, Bancroft Library, University of California).

94. Ibid. In 1855 the name was Kohler, Frohling & Scholler, Scholler presumably having furnished the money for the purchase of the Los Angeles vineyard. That partnership was dissolved in 1856. It was next called Kohler, Frohling & Bauck upon the entry of John Henry Bauck, who withdrew in 1860. Frohling died in 1862, but Kohler preserved the title of Kohler & Frohling thereafter (Leo J. Friis, John Frohling: Vintner and City Founder [Anaheim, Calif., 1976], pp. 10, 14, 23).

93. Charles Kohler, Bancroft dictation, n.d. (MS, Bancroft Library, University of California).

94. Ibid. In 1855 the name was Kohler, Frohling & Scholler, Scholler presumably having furnished the money for the purchase of the Los Angeles vineyard. That partnership was dissolved in 1856. It was next called Kohler, Frohling & Bauck upon the entry of John Henry Bauck, who withdrew in 1860. Frohling died in 1862, but Kohler preserved the title of Kohler & Frohling thereafter (Leo J. Friis, John Frohling: Vintner and City Founder [Anaheim, Calif., 1976], pp. 10, 14, 23).

95. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , pp. 47-48.

96. Kohler, Bancroft dictation.

97. Los Angeles Star , 24 October 1859, quoted in Wilson, William Wolfskill , pp. 173-74.

98. Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California , 4th ed., p. 294; Friis, John Frohling , pp. 31-32.

99. Vincent P. Carosso, The California Wine Industry, 1830-1895 (Berkeley, 1951), p. 33.

100. Ibid., p. 32.

101. Ibid.

99. Vincent P. Carosso, The California Wine Industry, 1830-1895 (Berkeley, 1951), p. 33.

100. Ibid., p. 32.

101. Ibid.

99. Vincent P. Carosso, The California Wine Industry, 1830-1895 (Berkeley, 1951), p. 33.

100. Ibid., p. 32.

101. Ibid.

102. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 99.

103. Annual Report of the American Institute, 1862-1863 (Albany, N.Y., 1863), pp. 85-88.

104. To B. D. Wilson, 17 September 1858 (Wilson Papers, Huntington Library).

105. Justin Kaplan, Mr. Clemens and Mark Twain (New York, 1966), p. 14.

106. Titus Fey Cronise, The Natural Wealth of California (San Francisco, 1868), p. 391.

107. Mechanics' Institute, Report of the 11th Industrial Exhibition (San Francisco, 1876), pp. 210-11.

108. Charles Kohler, "Wine Production in California," p. 7 (MS, Bancroft Library).

109. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 35-36.

110. Ibid., p. 37.

109. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 35-36.

110. Ibid., p. 37.

111. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 85.

112. Irving McKee, "Early California Wine Growers," California 37 (September 1947): 16.

113. Otto von Kotzebue, A New Voyage round the World in the Years 1823, 24, 25, and 26 (London, 1830), 2: 100.

114. Sir George Simpson, An Overland Voyage round the World (Philadelphia, 1847), 1: 179-80.

115. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 37.

116. Ibid., pp. 32, 34, 72-73.

115. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 37.

116. Ibid., pp. 32, 34, 72-73.

117. Wilson, William Wollfskill , p. 129.

118. Marsh is in the Dictionary of American Biography ; see also Bryant, What I Saw in California , pp. 303-4; and George D. Lyman, John Marsh, Pioneer (New York, 1930), p. 220.

119. McKee, "Early California Wine Growers," pp. 35-36; id., "Historic Wine Growers of Santa Clara County," California 40 (September 1950): 14; Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 67-68; Teiser and Harroun, Winemaking in California , p. 29.

120. Davis, Sevenif-Five Years in California , p. 54.

121. Bancroft, History of California , 5: 643; John Walton Caughey, California (New York, 1940), p. 305.

122. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 11, 71.

123. Report of California State Board of Agriculture, 1911 (Sacramento, 1912), p. 184.

124. Bancroft, History of California , 7: 47; Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 70.

125. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 86.

126. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1860 (Sacramento, 1861), p. 242.

127. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 23-24.

128. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 68.

129. Report of California State Board of Agriculture , 1911, p. 184.

130. C. A. Menefee, Historical and Descriptive Sketch Book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake and Mendocino (Napa, Calif., 1873), p. 203.

131. Report of California State Board of Agriculture , 1911, p. 184.

132. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 83.

133. California Horticultural Society, Report of the First Atnnual Exhibition (1857), in San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the First Industrial Exhibition (San Francisco, 1858), p. 148.

134. E.g., California Farmer , 7 December 1855, p. 179.

135. "An Act to provide for the better encouragement of the culture of the Vine and the Olive," Statutes of California , 10th sess. (Sacramento, 1859), p. 210.

136. Carosso, California Wine Industry , p. 50.

137. Julius Jacobs, "California's Pioneer Wine Families," California Historical Quarterly 54 (Summer 1975): 151.

138. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 (Sacramento, 1859), p. 257.

139. Charles L. Sullivan, Like Modem Edens: Winegrowing in Santa Clara Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains, 1798-1981 (Cupertino, Calif., 1982), pp. 17, 20.

140. California Farmer , 19 October 1855, p. 125.

141. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858, p. 257.

142. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 50.

143. Ernest P. Peninou, A History of the Orleans Hill Vineyard and Winery (Winters, Calif., 1983), pp. 6-7.

144. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , pp. 55-56. But according to an item in the California Farmer , 17 June 1859, Stock imported his vines in 1855: they came from his father's estate near Bingen, on the Rhine.

145. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 260; Leggett, Early History of Wine Production , p. 64.

146. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , pp. 252-53, 256.

147. Irving McKee, "George West: Pioneer Wine Grower of San Joaquin County," California 44 (September 1954): 17-18.

148. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 241.

149. Louis J. Stellman, Sam Brannan, Builder of San Francisco (New York, 1953), pp. 154, 169, 174.

150. Peninou and Greenleaf, Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers , p. 68.

151. California Farmer , 2 December 1859, p. 133. On the Black St. Peters, see Charles L. Sullivan, "A Viticultural Mystery Solved," California History 57 (Summer 1978): 123.

152. MS, 19 November 1886 (Shorb Papers, Huntington Library).

153. Leon Adams, "Historical Note," in Grapes and Grape Vines of California (New York, 1981), no pagination.

154. Report of California State Board of Agriculture , 1911, p. 197.

155. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1860 , p. 244.

156. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1859 (Sacramento, 1860), p. 301.

157. Charles Loring Brace, The New West: or, California in 1867-1868 (New York, 1869), pp. 253-54.

158. John S. Hittell, The Resources of California (San Francisco, 1863), p. 207.

1. The name is pronounced in Hungary as Hair' as tee , Hungarian being a language in which the stress uniformly falls on the first syllable; in America the usual pronunciation seems to be Hair ahz' thee .

2. What is currently known about Haraszthy is summarized in Theodore Schoenman, Father of California Wine: Agoston Haraszthy (Santa Barbara, 1979).

3. Ibid., p. 15.

2. What is currently known about Haraszthy is summarized in Theodore Schoenman, Father of California Wine: Agoston Haraszthy (Santa Barbara, 1979).

3. Ibid., p. 15.

4. V. S. Pease, "Agoston Haraszthy," in Proceedings of the State Historical Society, of Wisconsin, 1906 (Madison, 1907), p. 227.

5. Schoenman, Father of California Wine , p. 17. A very circumstantial account of Haraszthy's political activity and the reasons for his "flight" from Hungary are given in a manuscript entitled "The Haraszthy Family" by Arpad Haraszthy, the colonel's son, now in the Bancroft Library. This document is the basis of many details in the received account of Haraszthy's life and work, but its demonstrable errors make it unreliable in general.

6. Oswald Ragatz, "Memoirs of a Sauk Swiss," Wisconsin Magazine of History 19 (December 1935): 204n.

7. Paul Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story" (reprinted from Wines and Vines [San

Francisco, 1947?], p. 2. Some notes accompanying Arpad Haraszthy's "The Haraszthy Family" (see n. 5 above), evidently drawn from Agoston Haraszthy's account books, state that Haraszthy did not plant vines in Wisconsin until May 1848, only a few months before he left the state. After Haraszthy's departure the vineyard property was taken over by a German named Peter Kehl, who built a winery in 1867 that operated until 1899; it lay dormant thereafter until 1973, when its present owner bought it and restored it to wine production. What sorts of grapes Haraszthy may have planted is not known; Peter Kehl grew native varieties.

8. It is "The Haraszthy Family" manuscript.

9. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," pp. 3-4.

10. See Brian McGinty, Haraszthy at the Mint , Famous California Trials, no. 10 (Los Angeles, 1975).

11. Agoston Haraszthy, "Wine-Making in California," Harper's 29 (June 1864): 23.

12. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 (Sacramento, 1859), p. 243; but the figures given for Haraszthy's operations typically show much variation: The Alta California , 21 September 1863, reports that there were 34,000 vines at Buena Vista in 1858; in the First Annual Report of the Board of State Viticultural Commissioners (San Francisco, 1881), it is stated on the authority of Arpad Haraszthy that 200,000 vines had been put in at Buena Vista in 1857, and another 68,000 in 1858 (2d ed., p. 110).

13. Or so Arpad Haraszthy affirmed in "Early Viticulture in Sonoma," in Sonoma County and Russian River Valley Illustrated (San Francisco, 1888), p. 78. The figures in the State Register show 170,000 vines for Sonoma and Mendocino Counties in 1857, but only 87,621 in 1858; evidently a mistake has been made. The U.S. Census of 1860 reports only 1,190 gallons of wine from Sonoma County, an impossibly low figure.

14. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 242.

15. Agoston Haraszthy, Grape Culture, Wines, and Wine-Making (New York, 1862), p. 70.

16. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1859 (Sacramento, 1860), pp. 269-70.

17. Alta California , 21 September 1863.

18. So Haraszthy himself says: "Thousands were printed by the Legislature and distributed among the people" ("Wine-Making in California," p. 24). I have not succeeded in finding a copy of the essay as a separate pamphlet.

19. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 323.

20. Ibid., p. 326.

19. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 323.

20. Ibid., p. 326.

21. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 7.

22. Ibid., p. 5.

21. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 7.

22. Ibid., p. 5.

23. The other two commissioners were Colonel J. J. Warner of San Diego and Abraham Schell of Knight's Ferry, Stanislaus County. Haraszthy's and Warner's reports are in "Report of Commissioners on the Culture of the Grape-Vine in California," Appendix to Journals of Senate and Assembly, 13th sess., no. 12 (Sacramento, 1862). Abraham Schell was replaced by a Mr. Ramirez of Marys-ville, who does not seem to have reported.

24. Haraszthy, Grape Culture, Wines, and Wine-Making , p. 140.

25. "Report of Commissioners on the Culture of the Grape-Vine in California," pp. 7-10.

26. Haraszthy, Grape Culture, Wines, and Wine-Making , p. 142.

27. "Report of Commissioners on the Culture of the Grape-Vine in California," p. 9.

28. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 9.

29. A special committee of the state senate visited Haraszthy's Buena Vista property to inspect his imported vines and recommended to the Committee on Agriculture against purchasing them. The Committee on Agriculture recommended that no action be taken ( Journal of the Senate , 13th sess., 1862 [Sacramento, 1862], pp. 502-3: 7 April 1862). The vote on the recommendation was evenly split. On 15 April a special order was made for Act No. 433, "to purchase certain vines, and provide for the distribution of the same" (ibid., p. 558). On 16 April it was moved and voted by 20 to 9 to "indefinitely postpone" the bill (ibid., p. 570).

28. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 9.

29. A special committee of the state senate visited Haraszthy's Buena Vista property to inspect his imported vines and recommended to the Committee on Agriculture against purchasing them. The Committee on Agriculture recommended that no action be taken ( Journal of the Senate , 13th sess., 1862 [Sacramento, 1862], pp. 502-3: 7 April 1862). The vote on the recommendation was evenly split. On 15 April a special order was made for Act No. 433, "to purchase certain vines, and provide for the distribution of the same" (ibid., p. 558). On 16 April it was moved and voted by 20 to 9 to "indefinitely postpone" the bill (ibid., p. 570).

30. Advertisement in California Farmer , 24 May 1861 and after.

31. Los Angeles Star , 22 February 1862.

32. The list of Haraszthy's importations appears in the First Annual Report of the Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, 2d ed. (Sacramento, 1881), pp. 184-88.

33. This is substantially the account given by Arpad Haraszthy in "The Haraszthy Family" and

"Early Viticulture in Sonoma" (see nn. 5 and 13 above); his is the basis of most subsequent accounts and may be called the Arpad Haraszthy version of the Haraszthy story. Frona Eunice Wait depended on Arpad's version for the account of Haraszthy in her influential Wines and Vines of California (San Francisco, 1889), pp. 91-94. In this she sometimes took over verbatim parts of Arpad's "Early Viticulture in Sonoma."

34. Haraszthy, "Wine-Making in California."

35. For a summary of the evidence for Zinfandel's earlier history in the United States, see Charles L. Sullivan, "A Viticultural Mystery Solved," California History 57 (Summer 1978): 115-29; and the same author's "An Historian's Account of Zinfandel in California," Wines and Vines 58 (February 1977): 18-20.

36. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1858 , p. 98.

37. Sullivan, "Viticultural Mystery Solved," pp. 117-18.

38. Leon Adams, The Wines of America , 3d ed. (New York, 1985), p. 548.

39. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1879 (Sacramento, 1880), p. 146.

40. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, First Annual Report , p. 26.

41. Charles Wetmore, Ampelography of California (n.d., n.p.; "Reproduced and revised from San Francisco Merchant of January 4th and 11th, 1884"), p. 10.

42. Fredericksen, "The Authentic Haraszthy Story," p. 9.

43. Carosso, California Wine Industry , p. 68.

44. Ibid. Since the law then forbade a corporation to hold more than 1,440 acres, the California legislature obligingly passed a special exemption for the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society ( Journal of the Senate , 14th sess., 1863 [Sacramento, 1863], p. 467:17 April 1863).

43. Carosso, California Wine Industry , p. 68.

44. Ibid. Since the law then forbade a corporation to hold more than 1,440 acres, the California legislature obligingly passed a special exemption for the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society ( Journal of the Senate , 14th sess., 1863 [Sacramento, 1863], p. 467:17 April 1863).

45. Of the society's 400 acres of vineyard, 260 were in Mission grapes ( Alta California , 21 September 1863).

46. Ibid.

45. Of the society's 400 acres of vineyard, 260 were in Mission grapes ( Alta California , 21 September 1863).

46. Ibid.

47. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 70-71. Arpad left the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society in 1864; three years later Buena Vista "Sparkling Sonoma Wine" took a diploma of honorable mention at the Paris Universal Exposition.

48. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 71-72.

49. Wilson Flint to Benjamin D. Wilson, 2 November 1865 (Wilson Papers, Huntington Library).

50. See Schoenman, Father of California Wine , p. 35.

51. Alta California , 26 August 1869.

1. For the general history, see Leo J. Friis, Campo Aleman: The First Ten Years of Anaheim (Santa Ana, Calif., 1983); Mildred Yorba MacArthur, Anaheim: "Tile Mother Colony " (Los Angeles, 1959); Hallock F. Raup, The German Colonization of Anaheim, California (Berkeley, 1932); and Sister Mary Peter Traviss, O.P., "The Founding of Anaheim, California, 1857-1879" (M.A. thesis, Catholic University of America, 1961).

2. Raup, German Colonization , p. 124. Anaheim was still a part of Los Angeles County in 1857; it is now in Orange County, not organized until 1889.

3. MacArthur, Anaheim , pp. 22-24.

4. Alta California , 21 December 1857.

5. Raup, German Colonizatior pp. 129-30.

6. Raup, German Colonization , p. 124; MacArthur, Anaheim , p. 29. One may note here that the Los Angeles formula of i,000 vines to the acre was still being observed. There were fifty lots of eight acres each to be planted; hence 400,000 vines were required.

7. MacArthur, Anaheim , pp. 23, 25.

8. Raup, German Colonization , p. 126.

9. Ibid., pp. 123n., 131-32. They were perhaps most like the Hermann settlers, but they did not have even the cultural nationalism of that group.

8. Raup, German Colonization , p. 126.

9. Ibid., pp. 123n., 131-32. They were perhaps most like the Hermann settlers, but they did not have even the cultural nationalism of that group.

10. John Hittell, in Baup, German Colonization , p. 139.

11. Alta California , 28 September 1865.

12. Alta California , 26 March 1869; Henry Kroeger, "Early History of Anaheim as Related by a Colonist," Anaheim Gazette , 75th Anniversary ed., 1932 (Anaheim Public Library).

13. Charles Loring Brace, The New West: or, California in 1867-1868 (New York, 1869), p. 295.

14. Traviss, "Founding of Anaheim," p. 40; Alta California , 28 September 1865.

15. MacArthur, Anaheim , p. 29.

16. Helena Modjeska, Memories and Impressions (New York, 1910), pp. 285-305. Sienkiewicz describes a harvest festival in Anaheim in his story "Orso" (Western Septet: Seven Stories of the American West , trans. M. M. Coleman [Cheshire, Conn., 1973]); he also reported that in Anaheim the poor drank wine with their meals, "for this is the least expensive drink here" (Marc Pachter and Frances Wein, eds., Abroad in America: Visitors to the New Nation, 1776-1914 [Reading, Mass., 1976], pp. 180-81).

17. Norton B. Stern and William Kramer, "The Wine Tycoon of Anaheim," Western States Jewish Historical Quarterly 9 (1977): 262-78.

18. Benjamin Dreyfus, Biographical Scrapbook, Anaheim Public Library.

19. Stern and Kramer, "Wine Tycoon," p. 267.

20. Undated pamphlet, c. 1869, listing wines offered by J. F. Carr and Co., New York (Anaheim Public Library).

21. See also the list of wines offered in the East by Kohler & Frohling, p. 257 above.

22. Stern and Kramer, "Wine Tycoon," pp. 270-71.

23. This description is drawn from the fullest study of the Anaheim disease yet made: M.W. Gardner and William B. Hewitt, Pierce's Disease of the Grapevine: The Anaheim Disease and the California Fine Disease (Berkeley and Davis, 1974), pp. 5-31. See also A.J. Winkler et al., General Viticulture (Berkeley, 1962), pp. 468-69.

24. Gardner and Hewitt, Pierce's Disease, p. 5 .

25. Ibid., p. 13.

24. Gardner and Hewitt, Pierce's Disease, p. 5 .

25. Ibid., p. 13.

26. Rural Californian 10 (November 1887): 251. The expert from Washington, F. Lamson Scribner, was accompanied by the eminent French viticultural scientist Pierre Viala.

27. Raup, German Settlement , p. 136.

28. Dreyfus, Biographical Scrapbook, Anaheim Public Library.

29. For a summary of current knowledge of Pierce's Disease, see Gardner and Hewitt, Pierce's Disease , pp. 164ff.

30. Wines and Vines 64 (February 1983): 62.

31. Gardener and Hewitt, Pierce's Disease , pp. 192-95.

32. Susanna Bryant Dakin, A Scotch Paisano in Old Los Angeles: Hugo Reid's Life in California, 1832-1852, Derived from His Correspondence (Berkeley, 1939), p. 108.

33. Ibid., p. 199. Other authorities give 1854 as the year of purchase.

32. Susanna Bryant Dakin, A Scotch Paisano in Old Los Angeles: Hugo Reid's Life in California, 1832-1852, Derived from His Correspondence (Berkeley, 1939), p. 108.

33. Ibid., p. 199. Other authorities give 1854 as the year of purchase.

34. For Wilson, see John Walton Caughey, "Don Benito Wilson: An Average Southern Californian," Huntington Library Quarterly 2 (April 1939): 285-300; Midge Sherwood, Days of Vintage, Years of Vision (San Marino, Calif., 1982), passim.

35. L.J. Rose, Jr., L.J. Rose of Sunnyslope, 1827-1899 (San Marino, Calif., 1959), p. 45.

36. Wilson to Mrs. Wilson, 13 July 1856 (Wilson Papers, Huntington Library).

37. See, e.g., Paul W. Gates, California Ranchos and Farms, 1846-1862 (Madison, Wis., 1967), pp. 102-3.

38. Notes by Edith Shorb Steele, Shorb Papers, Huntington Library; J. De Barth Shorb, "Vines and Vineyards," in A. T. Hawley, ed., The Present Condition, Growth, Progress and Advantages of Los Angeles City and County (Los Angeles, 1876), p. 113.

39. Wilson's winemaker sent him a thousand cuttings from General Vallejo's vineyards in 1864. Wilson Flint sent him Muscat of Alexandria in 1866; and Wilson's San Francisco manager sent him 10,000 cuttings of Frontiniac in 1869 (Wilson Papers, 23 February 1864; 16 February 1866; 29 January 1869).

40. See above, p. 481 n91 (on first champagne).

41. H. R. Myles to Wilson, 22 February 1856 (Wilson Papers).

42. Myles to Wilson, 28 January 1857 (Wilson Papers).

43. Eberhart was recommended to Wilson by Kohler & Frohling (Caughey, "Don Benito Wilson," p. 289n).

44. Hobbs, Gilmore & Co. to Wilson, 6 March 1862 (Wilson Papers).

45. Hobbs to Wilson, 20 July 1863 (Wilson Papers). Another problem arose through competi-

tion with the producers of wine from New England's wild grapes: the dealers could not be trusted to refrain from mixing California wine with the native product. New England wild grape wine was produced in substantial quantities in this era. The firm of Paige & Co. in Boston was making 20,000 gallons annually from grapes growing along the Charles River and crushed in "mammoth wine presses" set up under the Boston City reservoir! ( Cozzens' Wine Press 6 [20 February 1860]: 66; American Agriculturist 19 [November 1860]: 340). Another commercial producer of wines from wild grapes was the firm of Glasier & Flint, of Ashburnham, Mass. Ashburnham wine, "for Communion," in barrels at $1 a gallon, is listed for sale by the Massachusetts commissioner for the sale of liquor in 1861.

46. T. Hart Hyatt, Hyatt's Hand-Book of Grape Culture (San Francisco, 1867), pp. 218-19.

47. Adolf Eberhart to Wilson, 15 May 1863 (Wilson Papers).

48. Hobbs, Gilmore & Co. to Wilson, 24 September 1863 (Wilson Papers).

49. Wilson, Notebook, 1876-84 (Wilson Papers).

50. The account that follows is drawn from the Shorb Papers in the Huntington Library.

51. Shorb Dictation (MS c. 1888), Bancroft Library.

52. Shorb Papers, Addenda.

53. Shorb to Wilson, 14 March 1868 (Wilson Papers).

54. Shorb to C. C. Spencer, 8 May 1870 (Letterbooks, Shorb Papers). Despite Shorb's statement, some Chinese workers may have been used at Lake Vineyard earlier: "I am coming by next steamer, and bring the Chinese men with me," Adolf Eberhart wrote to Wilson from San Francisco on 6 September 1865 (Wilson Papers).

55. The winegrowing scene in the San Gabriel Valley in the early 1870s is described in some detail by Ben C. Truman, Semi-Tropical California (San Francisco, 1874), pp. 121-31.

56. Shorb to Charles Schaur, 29 July 1875 (Letterbooks, Shorb Papers).

57. Shorb to Wilson, 14 June 1869 (Wilson Papers).

58. Shorb to Mr. Lyman, 14 April 1875 (Letterbooks, Shorb Papers).

59. Shorb to Wilson, 19 January 1869 (Wilson Papers).

60. Shorb to Leoser, 31 March, 16 June 1875 (Letterbooks, Shorb Papers).

61. Shorb to George Dietz, 10 November 1872 (Letterbooks, Shorb Papers).

62. Shorb to J. M. Curtis, 13 September 1875 (Letterbooks, Shorb Papers).

63. Sherwood, Days of Vintage, Years of Vision , p. 313n.

64. Shorb to S. Lachman & Co., 27 October 1878; to Lachman & Jacobi, 7 June 1879; to B. Dreyfus, 16 June 1880 (Letterbooks, Shorb Papers).

65. The scheme is discussed in several of Shorb's letters during 1881: see, e.g., those of 20 and 25 September and 14 November (Letterbooks, Shorb Papers).

66. The statement, evidently of Shorb's authorship, is quoted on a proofsheet of an article for a new edition of John S. Hittell's The Resources of California (San Francisco, 1863) in 1884 (Shorb Papers). The edition does not seem to have been published.

67. In 1881, the year that Shorb had begun to organize his new venture, French wine production was at 38 million hectolitres, only half of what it had been in 1875; in consequence, imports of wine into France, which had been only 292,000 hectolitres in 1875, were at nearly 8 million in 1881, and climbing (George Ordish, The Great Wine Blight [London, 1972], p. 214).

68. Evan Coleman to Shorb, 20 January 1885 (Shorb Papers). It is curious that even at this relatively late date in California experience, Shorb and his associates were interested in native as well as in vinifera grapes; they were looking for large quantities of Lenoir and Cynthiana cuttings in 1884: see Charles Wetmore to Shorb, 29 February 1884; William Walsh to Shorb, 20 October 1884 (Shorb Papers). Perhaps they were wanted for rootstocks against phylloxera.

69. Proofsheet for Hittell, Resources of California , 1884 (Shorb Papers).

70. Ibid.

69. Proofsheet for Hittell, Resources of California , 1884 (Shorb Papers).

70. Ibid.

71. Coleman to Shorb, 12 October 1884 (Shorb Papers).

72. F. W. Wood to Shorb, 23 January 1886 (Shorb Papers).

73. F.W. Wood to Shorb, 8 February 1886; they were still using "cherry juice" two years later: E. L. Watkins to Shorb, I May 1888 (Shorb Papers).

74. F. Pohndorff to Shorb, 5 April 1884 (Shorb Papers).

75. F. W. Wood to Shorb, 10 June 1884 (Shorb Papers).

76. H. Diehl to Shorb, 27 August 1885 (Shorb Papers).

77. C. F. Oldham to Shorb, 8 April 1891 (Shorb Papers).

78. Undated clipping (c. July 1887); Paul Oeker to Shorb, 15 and 28 January 1888 (Shorb Papers).

79. O. S. Howard to Shorb, 5 January 1888 (Shorb Papers).

80. C. W. Howard to Shorb, 27 June 1892 (Shorb Papers).

81. Evan Coleman to Shorb, 19 February 1884 (Shorb Papers).

82. E. L. Watkins to Shorb, 17 April 1888 (Shorb Papers).

83. To Shorb, 10 September 1888 (Shorb Papers).

84. Shorb hired Dowlen in September 1888 (Gardner and Hewitt, Pierce's Disease , pp. 16ff).

85. E. L. Watkins to Shorb, 9, 18, and 22 March 1890 (Shorb Papers).

86. Evan Coleman to Shorb, 29 August 1888 (Shorb Papers).

87. Copy, Shorb Papers.

88. Hellman to Evan Coleman, 13 February 1893 (Shorb Papers).

89. E. L. Watkins to Shorb, 5 June 1892 (Shorb Papers).

90. Statement, "San Gabriel Wine Co., Resources and Liabilities January 1st 1893" (Shorb Papers).

91. Lindley Bynum, "San Gabriel," in Joseph Henry Jackson, ed., The Vine in Early California ([San Francisco] 1955).

1. Frona Eunice Wait, Wines and Vines of California (1889; reprint, Berkeley, 1973), p. 180.

2. L.J. Rose, Jr., L.J. Rose of Sunny Slope, 1827-1889 (San Marino, Calif., 1959), pp. 132-33; 162-64.

3. Report of the California State Board of Agriculture, 1911 (Sacramento, 1912), p. 197.

4. Leon Adams, The Wines of America , 3d ed. (New York, 1985), p. 399.

5. Carey Stanton, An Island Memoir (Los Angeles, 1984), p. 16; Helen Caire, "A Brief History of Santa Cruz Island from 1869 to 1937," Ventura Count, Historical Society Quarterly 27 (Summer 1982): 7; Clifford McElrath, On Santa Cruz island (Los Angeles, 1967), pp. 6, 98, 120.

6. San Francisco Merchant , 28 December 1883.

7. Guido Rossati, Relazione di un viaggio d'istruzione negli Stati Uniti d'America (Rome, 1900), p. 285.

8. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Yearbook, 1902 (Washington, D.C., 1902), p. 413.

9. Charles Kohler, "Wine Production in California," pp. 9, 11(MS, Bancroft Library).

10. Overland Monthly 7 (May 1872): 398.

11. Writing of a trip made in 1896, the Italian observer Guido Rossati described the winery of William Wehner at Evergreen, Santa Clara County, as typical of California: brick-built, of three floors, it backed up against a hillside; grapes were conveyed to the top floor, where they were crushed; they then descended through chutes to the fermentation vats on the second floor; storage was on the ground floor ( Relazione , pp. 226-27). An extremely interesting collection of photographs of (mostly) nineteenth-century winery buildings is Irene W. Haynes, Ghost Wineries of Napa Valley (San Francisco, 1980).

12. The use of redwood for wine cooperage was one of the innovations for which Haraszthy claimed credit: see Alta California , 21 September 1863, and Agoston Haraszthy, "Wine-Making in California," Harper's 29 (June 1864): 28.

13. Ernest P. Peninou and Sidney S. Greenleaf, Winemaking in California: III. The California Wine Association ([San Francisco?] 1954), 27.

14. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Directory of the Grape Growers, Wine Makers and Distillers of California (Sacramento, 1891).

15. History of San Luis Obispo County, California (Oakland, 1883), p. 230.

16. The Diaries of Louis Pasqual Dallidet, 1882-1884 , ed. Patrick and Eleanor Brown (San Luis Obispo, Calif., n.d.).

17. Alexander D. Bell, Firesno, California (San Francisco, 1884), p. 4.

18. Ibid.

19. Ibid., pp. 16-17; Wait, Wines and Vines of California , p. 188.

17. Alexander D. Bell, Firesno, California (San Francisco, 1884), p. 4.

18. Ibid.

19. Ibid., pp. 16-17; Wait, Wines and Vines of California , p. 188.

17. Alexander D. Bell, Firesno, California (San Francisco, 1884), p. 4.

18. Ibid.

19. Ibid., pp. 16-17; Wait, Wines and Vines of California , p. 188.

20. Bell, Fresno, p . 17.

21. Wait, Wines and Fines of California , p. 185.

22. Bell, Fresno , pp. 9-10; Rossati, Relazione , p. 265; California Wine Association, undated brochure, c. 1910? (Huntington Library).

23. Wait, Wines and Vines of California , p. 185; Bell, Fresno , p. 19.

24. Wait, Wines and Vines of California , pp. 185-87; Rossati, Relazione , p. 260.

25. Rossati, Relazione , p. 265; American Wine Press and Mineral Water News , 5 May 1897, p. 5; California Wine Review , June 1934, pp. 32-33.

26. Wait, Wines and Fines of California , p. 187.

27. Ibid., pp. 189-90; San Francisco Merchant , 14 March 1884.

26. Wait, Wines and Fines of California , p. 187.

27. Ibid., pp. 189-90; San Francisco Merchant , 14 March 1884.

28. U.S. Immigration Commission, Report , 24 (Washington, D.C., 1911): 570.

29. David Joseph Gibson, "The Development of the Livermore Valley Wine District" (M.A. thesis, University of California, Davis, 1969), p. 39.

30. Ibid., pp. 40, 47-49.

29. David Joseph Gibson, "The Development of the Livermore Valley Wine District" (M.A. thesis, University of California, Davis, 1969), p. 39.

30. Ibid., pp. 40, 47-49.

31. Adolf Eberhart to Benjamin Wilson, 27 May 1863 (Wilson Papers, Huntington Library).

32. Norman E. Tutorow, Leland Stanford: Man of Many Careers (Menlo Park, Calif., 1971), p. 186.

33. Joseph A. McConnell, Jr., "The Stanford Vina Ranch" (M.A. thesis, Stanford University, 1961), PP. 5-17.

34. Ibid., pp. 18, 43-49; Tutorow, Leland Stanford , p. 187.

33. Joseph A. McConnell, Jr., "The Stanford Vina Ranch" (M.A. thesis, Stanford University, 1961), PP. 5-17.

34. Ibid., pp. 18, 43-49; Tutorow, Leland Stanford , p. 187.

35. McConnell, "Stanford Vina Ranch," pp. 29-31, 40, 42, 45-46.

36. Ibid., p. 38; Rose, L.J. Rose , p. 105.

35. McConnell, "Stanford Vina Ranch," pp. 29-31, 40, 42, 45-46.

36. Ibid., p. 38; Rose, L.J. Rose , p. 105.

37. McConnell, "Stanford Vina Ranch," pp. 38-39.

38. Ibid., pp. 50-51. The Vina Ranch production was 10 percent of the entire California wine crop in that year.

37. McConnell, "Stanford Vina Ranch," pp. 38-39.

38. Ibid., pp. 50-51. The Vina Ranch production was 10 percent of the entire California wine crop in that year.

39. George Coes Howell, The Case of Whiskey (Altadena, Calif., 1928), p. 120.

40. McConnell, "Stanford Vina Ranch," p. 53.

41. Dorothy E Regnery, An Enduring Heritage: Historic Buildings of tile San Francisco Peninsula (Stanford, Calif., 1976), p. 73.

42. McConnell, "Stanford Vina Ranch," p. 33; Elizabeth Gregg, "The History of the Famous Stanford Ranch," Overland Monthly 52 (October 1908): 338.

43. Gregg, "History of the Famous Stanford Ranch," p. 338.

44. McConnell, "Stanford Vina Ranch," pp. 56-57; Tutorow, Leland Stanford p. 194.

45. McConnell, "Stanford Vina Ranch," p. 67; F. T. Robson, "The Stanford Vina Ranch," in The Fine in Early California ([San Francisco] 1955), no pagination.

46. Irving McKee, "Three Wine-Growing Senators," California 37 (September 1947): 15, 28-29.

47. Ruth Teiser and Catherine Harroun, Winemaking in California (New York, 1983), p. 85.

48. Wait, Wines and Vines of California , pp. 156-57; article on Julius Paul Smith in Cyclopaedia of Armerian Biography, 25 .

49. Budyard Kipling, From Sea to Sea (London, 1899), 1: 496.

50. Wait, Wines and Vines of California , p. 157; Irving McKee, "Historic Alameda County Wine Growers," California 43 (September 1953): 22.

51. Teiser and Harroun, Winemaking in California , pp. 114, 119; Maynard Amerine, "Hilgard and California Viticulture," Hilgardia 33 (July 1962): 4.

52. Ben C. Truman, Semi-Tropical California (San Francisco, 1874), pp. 121-22; Teiser and Harroun, Winemaking in California , p. 140; Esther Boulton Black, Rancho Cucamonga and Doña Merced (Redlands, Calif., 1975), p. 260.

53. George Husmann, Grape Culture and Wine-Making in California (San Francisco, 1888), p. 226; Bascom A. Stephens, ed., Resources of Los Angeles County, California (Los Angeles, 1887), pp. 91-95.

54. Husmann, Grape Culture and Wine-Making in California , pp. 236-37.

55. Ibid., p. 237.

54. Husmann, Grape Culture and Wine-Making in California , pp. 236-37.

55. Ibid., p. 237.

56. Pacific Wine and Spirit Review , 23 April 1896, p. 9.

57. Eliot Lord et al., The Italian in America (New York, 1906), p. 143.

58. Ibid., pp. 136-37; Italian Swiss Colony, Italian Swiss Colony, Growers and Producers of Choice California Wines (undated pamphlet [San Francisco? c. 1910?]), pp. 12-14.

59. Ibid., p. 14.

60. Ibid., pp. 14-16.

61. Ibid., pp. 6, 14-16. See also Italian Swiss Colony, Sixth Annual Report, 1887 (San Francisco, [1887]).

57. Eliot Lord et al., The Italian in America (New York, 1906), p. 143.

58. Ibid., pp. 136-37; Italian Swiss Colony, Italian Swiss Colony, Growers and Producers of Choice California Wines (undated pamphlet [San Francisco? c. 1910?]), pp. 12-14.

59. Ibid., p. 14.

60. Ibid., pp. 14-16.

61. Ibid., pp. 6, 14-16. See also Italian Swiss Colony, Sixth Annual Report, 1887 (San Francisco, [1887]).

57. Eliot Lord et al., The Italian in America (New York, 1906), p. 143.

58. Ibid., pp. 136-37; Italian Swiss Colony, Italian Swiss Colony, Growers and Producers of Choice California Wines (undated pamphlet [San Francisco? c. 1910?]), pp. 12-14.

59. Ibid., p. 14.

60. Ibid., pp. 14-16.

61. Ibid., pp. 6, 14-16. See also Italian Swiss Colony, Sixth Annual Report, 1887 (San Francisco, [1887]).

57. Eliot Lord et al., The Italian in America (New York, 1906), p. 143.

58. Ibid., pp. 136-37; Italian Swiss Colony, Italian Swiss Colony, Growers and Producers of Choice California Wines (undated pamphlet [San Francisco? c. 1910?]), pp. 12-14.

59. Ibid., p. 14.

60. Ibid., pp. 14-16.

61. Ibid., pp. 6, 14-16. See also Italian Swiss Colony, Sixth Annual Report, 1887 (San Francisco, [1887]).

57. Eliot Lord et al., The Italian in America (New York, 1906), p. 143.

58. Ibid., pp. 136-37; Italian Swiss Colony, Italian Swiss Colony, Growers and Producers of Choice California Wines (undated pamphlet [San Francisco? c. 1910?]), pp. 12-14.

59. Ibid., p. 14.

60. Ibid., pp. 14-16.

61. Ibid., pp. 6, 14-16. See also Italian Swiss Colony, Sixth Annual Report, 1887 (San Francisco, [1887]).

62. Italian Swiss Colony , pp. 40, 42, 52-53.

63. Teiser and Harroun, Winemaking in California , p. 151.

64. Italian Sides Colony , pp. 28, 42, 55.

65. Ibid., p. 30; Lord et al., Italian in America , p. 138.

64. Italian Sides Colony , pp. 28, 42, 55.

65. Ibid., p. 30; Lord et al., Italian in America , p. 138.

66. A start has been made by William F. Heintz, ''The Role of Chinese Labor in Viticulture and Wine-Making in 19th Century California" (M.A. thesis, Sonoma State University, 1977). See also Sucheng Chan, This Bittersweet Soil: The Chinese in California Agriculture, 1860-1910 (Berkeley, 1986).

67. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1860 (Sacramento, 1861), p. 78.

68. Rose, L.J. Rose , p. 81.

69. Harper's Weekly 22 ( October 1878): 792-93. In 1883 the prominent Santa Rosa wine producer Isaac De Turk, stated that the Chinese are "the principal help in Sonoma County" (De Turk, "Sonoma Wines" [MS, Bancroft Library], 8 September 1883, p. 21).

70. Ernest P. Peninou and Sidney S. Greenleaf, A Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers in 1860 (Berkeley, 1967), pp. 3, 44.

71. Irving McKee, "The Oldest Names in California Winegrowing," California 41 (September 1951): 17.

72. Bob Stuart Barlow, "Historical and Regional Analysis of the Italian Role in California Viticulture and Enology" (M.A. thesis, University of California at Los Angeles, 1964); Adams, Wines of America , 3d ed., p. 399.

73. Adams, Wines of America , 3d ed., p. 447; Irving McKee, "Historic Fresno County Wine Growers," California 42 (September 1952): 13.

74. Irving McKee, "Oldest Names in California Winegrowing," p. 17; C. A. Menefee, Historical and Descriptive Sketch Book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake and Mendocino (Napa, Calif., 1873), p. 213.

75. For example, Idwal Jones, The Vineyard (New York, 1942); Sidney Howard, They Knew What They Wanted (New York, 1924); John Fante, Dago Red (New York, 1940); Anita Kornfeld, Vintage (New York, 1980); Michael Legat, Mario's Vineyard (London, 1980); Jack Bickham, The >Wihemakers (New York, 1977).

76. San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Fifteenth Industrial Exhibition, 1880 (San Francisco, 1880), p. 99.

77. The standard account of Thomas Lake Harris's life and work is Herbert W. Schneider and George Lawton, A Prophet and a Pilgrim (New York, 1942).

78. Ibid., p. 160.

77. The standard account of Thomas Lake Harris's life and work is Herbert W. Schneider and George Lawton, A Prophet and a Pilgrim (New York, 1942).

78. Ibid., p. 160.

79. Harris called his new settlement "Salem-on-Erie" in order to promote the Salem name, but he was soon compelled to accept the original address of Brocton (Ibid., p. 147).

80. Ibid., pp. 149, 160.

79. Harris called his new settlement "Salem-on-Erie" in order to promote the Salem name, but he was soon compelled to accept the original address of Brocton (Ibid., p. 147).

80. Ibid., pp. 149, 160.

81. William Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice (Syracuse, N.Y., 1977), p. 44.

82. Adams, Wines of America , 3d ed., p. 152.

83. Schneider and Lawton, A Prophet and a Pilgrim , pp. 279-80.

84. Illustrated History of Sonoma County (Chicago, 1889), p. 366.

85. Schneider and Lawton, A Prophet and a Pilgrim , pp. 223n., 473. I have not found a file of the Fountain Grove Wine Press . It would be curious to examine.

86. Illustrated History of Sonoma County , p. 367. The Manor House, as it was called, was demolished in 1970. See the excellent photographs in Paul Kagan, New World Utopias (New York, 1975).

87. Schneider and Lawton, At Prophet and a Pilgrim , pp. 467-68.

88. Ibid., p. 488.

87. Schneider and Lawton, At Prophet and a Pilgrim , pp. 467-68.

88. Ibid., p. 488.

89. Richard Paul Hinkle, "The Wines and the Mystics of Fantastic Fountaingrove," Redwood Rancher , July 1979, pp. 20-24.

90. Robert V. Hine, California's Utopian Colonies (New Haven, 1966), pp. 63, 72-73.

91. Ibid., pp. 59-61.

92. Ibid., pp. 58, 67-68, 71-72; Kagan, New World Utopias , p. 42.

90. Robert V. Hine, California's Utopian Colonies (New Haven, 1966), pp. 63, 72-73.

91. Ibid., pp. 59-61.

92. Ibid., pp. 58, 67-68, 71-72; Kagan, New World Utopias , p. 42.

90. Robert V. Hine, California's Utopian Colonies (New Haven, 1966), pp. 63, 72-73.

91. Ibid., pp. 59-61.

92. Ibid., pp. 58, 67-68, 71-72; Kagan, New World Utopias , p. 42.

93. Hine, California's Utopian Colonies , pp. 74-75.

94. Husmann, Grape Culture and Wine-Making in California , p. iii.

95. Wait, Wines and Vines of California , p. 147; De Turk, "Sonoma Wines."

96. J. De Barth Shorb, for example: see F. W. Wood to Shorb, 1 March 1886 (Shorb Papers).

97. Illustrated History of Sonoma County , pp. 430, 433, 699.

98. Ibid., p. 430; Wait, Wines and Vines of California , pp. 139, 142.

97. Illustrated History of Sonoma County , pp. 430, 433, 699.

98. Ibid., p. 430; Wait, Wines and Vines of California , pp. 139, 142.

99. Illustrated History of Sonoma County , p. 499; Wait, Wines and Fines of California , pp. 136-37.

100. Illustrated History of Sonoma County , p. 402.

101. Ibid., pp. 509, 541, 565.

100. Illustrated History of Sonoma County , p. 402.

101. Ibid., pp. 509, 541, 565.

102. Wait, Wines and Vines of California , p. 134.

103. Illustrated History of Sonoma Count , pp. 587-88, 525-26, 516-17, 551-52.

104. Ibid., pp. 409, 569-70, 714, 732, 427-28, 443-44, 501-2, 538-40, 594-95, 630-32, 665, 452-53.

103. Illustrated History of Sonoma Count , pp. 587-88, 525-26, 516-17, 551-52.

104. Ibid., pp. 409, 569-70, 714, 732, 427-28, 443-44, 501-2, 538-40, 594-95, 630-32, 665, 452-53.

105. The 118 winemakers produced 1,756,000 gallons in 1891, an average of 14,881 gallons apiece; the 22,863 acres of vineyard in Sonoma County were divided among 728 proprietors, an average of 31 1/3 acres.

1. Herbert B. Leggett, Early History of Wine Production in California (San Francisco, 1941), P. 112; Paul Fredericksen, The Authentic Haraszthy Story (San Francisco [1947]), p. 9; Thomas H. Pauly, "J. Ross Browne: Wine Lobbyist and Frontier Opportunist," California Historical Quarterly 51 (Summer 1972): 108.

2. Pauly, p. 109.

3. MS resolution of protest, Los Angeles Wine Growers' Association, 9 October 1869 (Wilson Papers, Huntington Library).

4. Vincent P. Carosso, The California Wine Industry, 1830-1895 (Berkeley, 1951), p. 92; I. N. Hoag to Benjamin Wilson, 4 July 1872 (Wilson Papers).

5. Carosso, California Wine Industry , p. 92. The association's first fair was held at Sacramento in September 1872: see the association's Transactions, 1872 , published in Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society, 1872 (Sacramento, 1873).

6. Carosso, California Wine Industry , pp. 104-5.

7. Sacramento Daily Union , 21 March 1872.

8. George Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine-Making , 4th ed. (New York, 1880), p. 173. California itself was then beginning to suffer serious destruction of its vineyards from phylloxera, but it was not yet allowable to admit the fact.

9. For the committee's hearings, see "The Culture of the Grape," in Appendix to the Journals of the Senate and Assembly , 23d sess., 5, no. 16 (Sacramento, 1880). For the text of the Act, see California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, First Annual Report (San Francisco, 1881), pp. 5-8.

10. The districts were Sonoma, Napa, San Francisco (including Alameda, San Mateo, and Santa Clara counties), Los Angeles, Sacramento, San Joaquin, and El Dorado.

11. "First Report of the Committee on the Phylloxera, Vine Pests, and the Diseases of the Vine," p. 6, m California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, First Annual Report . This is the earliest established identification of the phylloxera in California, but there was general agreement that the pest had been in the state earlier than that: ibid., pp. 28—29. E. M. Stafford and R. L. Doutt, "Insect Grape Pests of Northern California," University of California, California Agricultural Experiment Station, Extension Service Circular no. 566 (1974), P. 62, state that phylloxera was discovered in California in 1852. Since it is usually supposed that the pest was introduced to California on vines imported from the eastern United States, this date, if correct, is evidence of very early importation indeed. Phylloxera had not even been identified in 1852, so the evidence for so early a date must be indirect.

10. The districts were Sonoma, Napa, San Francisco (including Alameda, San Mateo, and Santa Clara counties), Los Angeles, Sacramento, San Joaquin, and El Dorado.

11. "First Report of the Committee on the Phylloxera, Vine Pests, and the Diseases of the Vine," p. 6, m California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, First Annual Report . This is the earliest established identification of the phylloxera in California, but there was general agreement that the pest had been in the state earlier than that: ibid., pp. 28—29. E. M. Stafford and R. L. Doutt, "Insect Grape Pests of Northern California," University of California, California Agricultural Experiment Station, Extension Service Circular no. 566 (1974), P. 62, state that phylloxera was discovered in California in 1852. Since it is usually supposed that the pest was introduced to California on vines imported from the eastern United States, this date, if correct, is evidence of very early importation indeed. Phylloxera had not even been identified in 1852, so the evidence for so early a date must be indirect.

12. Southern California Horticulturist 2 (November 1878): 16.

13. See California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, First Atnnual Report of the Chief Executive Viticultural Officer, 1882 (Sacramento, 1882), pp. ix-xv.

14. Maynard Amerine, "Hilgard and California Viticulture," Hilgardia 33 (July 1962): 3. An interesting meeting of Hilgard with the winegrowers of Sonoma is reported in San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Thirteenth Industrial Exhibition, 1878 (San Francisco, 1878), pp. 103-7.

After describing the phylloxera to them, Hilgard concluded that grafting to resistant American root-stocks, as the French were doing, would be necessary for "the vineyards of the future" (p. 106).

15. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Annual Report, 1887 (Sacramento, 1888), p. 88.

16. George C. Husmann, "Viticulture of Napa County," in Tom Gregory et al., History of Solano and Napa Counties (Los Angeles, 1912), pp. 148-49.

17. Charles Wetmore recommends it in, e.g., his Ampelography of California (San Francisco, 1884), p. 18; so did Hilgard in a series of bulletins (Amerine, "Hilgard and California Viticulture," P. 4). A.J. Winkler, General Viticulture (Berkeley, 1962), p. 18, states succinctly that V. californica is "not sufficiently resistant" to phylloxera.

18. International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report (San Francisco, 1915), P. 47.

19. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Second Annual Report of the Chief Executive Viticultural Officer, 1882-3 and 1883-4 (Sacramento, 1884), pp. 103-51.

20. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Annual Report, 1887 (Sacramento, 1887), pp. 61-62; id., Minutes, 9 March 1887 (MS, Bancroft Library).

21. E.g., California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Second Annual Report of the Chief Executive Viticultural Officer , pp. 55-68, 103-51.

22. See, e.g., San Francisco Merchant , 15 June 1883, p. 201, and 13 July 1883, p. 273.

23. Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine-Making pp. 166, 169.

24. Charles Wetmore in California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Second Annual Report of the Chief Executive Viticultural Officer , p. 39.

25. Wetmore, Ampelography of California , pp. 9, 10, 15, 16.

26. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Second Annual Report of the Chief Executive Viticultural Officer , p. 40. Among the experimenters with new varieties, Wetmore names George West, J. H. Drummond, Charles Lefranc, and L. J. Rose.

27. Ibid., p. 42.

26. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Second Annual Report of the Chief Executive Viticultural Officer , p. 40. Among the experimenters with new varieties, Wetmore names George West, J. H. Drummond, Charles Lefranc, and L. J. Rose.

27. Ibid., p. 42.

28. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Annual Report, 1893-94 , appendix B, part 2 (Sacramento, 1894), pp. 46-48.

29. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Minutes, 19 May 1884, 8 June 1885, 15 January 1887, 11 December 1888; minutes of the Executive Committee, 21 March 1895.

30. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Annual Report, 1893-94 , p. 10.

31. Ibid., pp. 79-89. Among the prize-winners were Paul Masson, Isaac De Turk, Arpad Haraszthy, Charles Wetmore, and H. W. Crabb.

30. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Annual Report, 1893-94 , p. 10.

31. Ibid., pp. 79-89. Among the prize-winners were Paul Masson, Isaac De Turk, Arpad Haraszthy, Charles Wetmore, and H. W. Crabb.

32. Pacific Wine and Spirit Review , 30 August 1890.

33. Lilian Whiting, Kate Field: A Record (Boston, 1899), pp. 458-59; California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Minutes, 11 December 1888.

34. Irving McKee, "Historic Alameda County Wine Growers," California 43 (September 1953): 22; Janet Newton, "Cresta Bianca and Charles Wetmore: A Founder of the California Wine Industry" (Livermore, Calif.: Livermore Heritage Guild, 1974).

35. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Minutes, 9 March 1887, 11 June 1888, 20 April 1889, 8 June 1891.

36. Ibid., 8 June 1891.

35. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Minutes, 9 March 1887, 11 June 1888, 20 April 1889, 8 June 1891.

36. Ibid., 8 June 1891.

37. Amerine, "Hilgard and California Viticulture," pp. 9-12.

38. University of California College of Agriculture, Report of the Viticultural Work during the Seasons 1887-93 (Sacramento, 1896), p. 3.

39. See ibid., passim, for the sources listed for the analyses of specific varieties.

38. University of California College of Agriculture, Report of the Viticultural Work during the Seasons 1887-93 (Sacramento, 1896), p. 3.

39. See ibid., passim, for the sources listed for the analyses of specific varieties.

40. Adams, Wines of America , p. 300. Despite his name, Bioletti was an Englishman.

41. See Bioletti's summary in University of California College of Agriculture, Report of the Viticultural Work. . . 1887-93 , pp. 379ff.

42. Ibid., p. 384.

43. Ibid., p. 409.

41. See Bioletti's summary in University of California College of Agriculture, Report of the Viticultural Work. . . 1887-93 , pp. 379ff.

42. Ibid., p. 384.

43. Ibid., p. 409.

41. See Bioletti's summary in University of California College of Agriculture, Report of the Viticultural Work. . . 1887-93 , pp. 379ff.

42. Ibid., p. 384.

43. Ibid., p. 409.

44. University of California College of Agriculture, Report of the Viticultural Work during the Seasons 1885 and 1886 (Sacramento, 1886); Reports of Experiments on Methods of Fermentation and Related Subjects (Sacramento, 1888); Report of the Viticultural Work during the Seasons 1887-89 (Sacramento, 1892).

45. Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center, Proceedings, Ohio Grape-Wine Short Course, 1973 (Wooster, Ohio, 1973), p. 63.

46. California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Minutes of Executive Committee, 20 February 1893; Carosso, California Wine Industry , p. 192.

47. The ancestor of the Department of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California, Davis. Many of the records of both the board and the university department went up in smoke when the Agriculture Building at Berkeley burned in 1897.

48. At the beginning of the 1880s, when the California industry began to respond to the possibility of supplying phylloxera-smitten Europe with wine, the total quantity of wine exported from the state was only 154,000 gallons. By 1890 the figure had risen to 393,000 gallons, and would reach a peak of 1,623,000 gallons in 1898. This was a notable increase but made only a small proportion of the total increase in production over those years ( Report of California State Board of Agriculture , 1911 [Sacramento, 1912], p. 203).

49. Charles Wetmore, Treatise on Wine Production , appendix B to the Report of the Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, 1893-94 (Sacramento, 1894), pp. 5-6, 37-38. On this matter, Wetmore and Hilgard were at one. In a letter called "Plain Talk to the Winemen" in the San Francisco Examiner , 8 August 1889, Hilgard explained the depressed market in California wine as a simple consequence of "the poor quality of the larger part of the wines made and their immaturity when put on the market." ''The foreign guest at our principal hotels might be aghast," Hilgard wrote, "at having the claret cork fly at him, followed by a significant puff of smoke, and a liquid resembling sauce rather than wine and of uncanny odor: the label assured him that it was all fight and that such was the nature of California wine." Such deplorable results were the outcome of equally deplorable methods. The California winemaker, "after crushing promiscuously grapes sound, moldy, green and sunburnt... allows his fermenting tanks to get so hot as to scald the yeast, and then wonders why the wine has 'stuck'; permits the 'cap' to get white with mold and swarming with vinegar flies and then cheerfully stirs it under so as to thoroughly infect the wine with the germs of destruction."

50. Wetmore, Treatise on Wine Production, p. 35 .

51. Ibid., p. 36.

50. Wetmore, Treatise on Wine Production, p. 35 .

51. Ibid., p. 36.

52. Adams, Wines of America , p. 172; Peninou and Greenleaf, Winemaking in California (1954), p.1.

53. For the history of the California Wine Association, see Ernest P. Peninou and Sidney S. Greenleaf, Winemaking in California: III. The California Wine Association ([San Francisco?] 1954); and Ruth Teiser and Catherine Harroun, Winemaking in California (New York, 1983), pp. 157-60. The seven firms forming the CWA were Kohler & Frohling, Kohler & Van Bergen, C. Carpy & Company, B. Dreyfus & Company, S. Lachman & Company, the Napa Valley Wine Company, and Arpad Haraszthy & Company.

54. "The California Wine Association," company brochure (n.p., n.d. [San Francisco? c. 1910?]) (Huntington Library).

55. Peninou and Greenleaf, Winemaking in California: III , p. 5.

56. Ibid., p. 30.

57. Ibid., p. 31.

55. Peninou and Greenleaf, Winemaking in California: III , p. 5.

56. Ibid., p. 30.

57. Ibid., p. 31.

55. Peninou and Greenleaf, Winemaking in California: III , p. 5.

56. Ibid., p. 30.

57. Ibid., p. 31.

58. "The California Wine Association" (brochure cited n. 54 above).

59. Peninou and Greenleaf, Winemaking in California: III , pp. 19-20.

60. Ibid., pp. 21 - 22.

59. Peninou and Greenleaf, Winemaking in California: III , pp. 19-20.

60. Ibid., pp. 21 - 22.

61. Husmann, Grape Culture and Wine-Making in California , p. 344.

62. Robert Louis Stevenson, "Napa Wine," in The Silverado Squatters (London, 1883).

63. International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report , p. 29. Lachman adds: "As California wines began to improve, instead of giving them a half blend of foreign wine the blend was reduced to possibly about 80 per cent California and 20 per cent French. The demand in wine at that time was for a French label, mostly fictitious brands" (ibid.).

64. "California Wine Association" (brochure cited n. 54 above).

65. Ibid.

64. "California Wine Association" (brochure cited n. 54 above).

65. Ibid.

66. Hiram S. Dewey, in International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report , p. 302.

67. Ibid.

66. Hiram S. Dewey, in International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report , p. 302.

67. Ibid.

68. Peninou and Greenleaf, Winemaking in California: III , pp. 28- 29; Teiser and Harroun, Winemaking in California , pp. 158-59.

69. Adams, Wines of America , p. 279; Teiser and Harroun, Winemaking in California , p. 150.

70. For the figures on California wine production, see Report of the State Board of Agriculture , 1911, p. 191.

71. San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the First Industrial Exhibition, 1857 (San Francisco, 1858), p. 58.

72. Illustrated History of Sonoma County (Chicago, 1889), p. 571; San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Eleventh Industrial Exhibition (San Francisco, 1876), p. 162.

73. Agoston Haraszthy, "Wine-Making in California," Harper's 29 (June 1864): 28.

74. San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Sixth Annual Industrial Exhibition, 1868 (San Francisco, 1868), pp. 39-40.

75. San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Twenty-Third Industrial Exhibition, 1888 (San Francisco, 1888), p. 121.

76. California Farmer , 7 October 1863, p. 69.

77. San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Seventh Industrial Exhibition, 1869 (San Francisco, 1869), p. 39.

78. San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Ninth Industrial Exhibition, 1874 (San Francisco, 1874), p. 55.

79. E. T. Meakin, "The Engineer's Part in the Advancement of the Viticultural Industry," in International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report , p. 250.

80. San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Twenty-Third Industrial Exhibition, 1888 , pp. 85-86.

81. San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Twelfth Industrial Exhibition, 1877 , p. 142.

82. San Francisco Mechanics' Institute, Report of the Ninth Industrial Exhibition, 1874 , p. 54; Report of the Nineteenth Industrial Exhibition, 1884 (San Francisco, 1885), p. 78.

83. Meakin, "Engineer's Part," in International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report , p. 251.

84. Quercus suber , the cork oak, grows quite happily in California, but it has never been commercially exploited there so far as I know. No doubt the labor costs of harvesting and processing the bark make the idea unattractive. Spain and Portugal continue to supply the world.

85. San Francisco Merchant , 25 May 1883, p. 137.

86. San Francisco Directory , 1889; California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners, Report of the Sixth Annual State Viticultural Convention (Sacramento, 1888), p. 84; Illustrated History of Sonoma County , p. 252.

87. San Francisco Merchant , 13 April 1883, p. 3.

88. International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report , p. 15. The rest of the description of the congress is drawn from this source.

89. Frank Morton Todd, The Story of the Exposition (New York, 1921), 4:302.

1. The actual production figures for New York were: 1870, 82,000 gallons; 1880, 584,000 gallons; 1890, 2,528,000 gallons.

2. American Agriculturist 25 (1866): 401.

3. The proportion in 1890 was 60,000 tons sent to market as table grapes and 15,000 tons crushed for wine (11th Census, 1890, Report on the Statistics of Agriculture in the United States [Washington, D.C., 1895] p. 602).

4. George Howell Morris, "Rise of the Grape and Wine Industry in the Naples Valley during the Nineteenth Century" (M.A. thesis, Syracuse University, 1955), p. 38n.

5. D. Bauder, "The Grape-Growing District of Central New York," in George Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making (New York, 1896), p. 99.

6. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Yearbook, 1902 (Washington, D.C., 1902), p. 416.

7. Lewis Cass Aldrich, History of Yates County, N.Y . (Syracuse, N.Y., 1892), p. 241.

8. Vineyard View (Hammondsport, N.Y.) 9, no. 4 (1980): 12; Irvin W. Near, History of Steuben County, New York (Chicago, 1911), p. 295.

9. William Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice (Syracuse, N.Y., 1977), p. 46.

10. Chautauqua Grape and Wine Association, "Chautauqua Fruits, Grapes, and Grape Products" (n.p., 1901), unpaginated (Library of Congress).

11. The WCTU was officially founded at Cleveland in 1874, but the organizing committee was

created at the National Sunday School Assembly at Lake Chautauqua in August 1874 (Elizabeth Putnam Gordon, Women Torch-Bearers [Evanston, Ill., 1924], p. 13).

12. Chautauqua Grape and Wine Association, "Chautauqua Fruits, Grapes, and Grape Products."

13. Ibid., where they are called "Italian makers of sour wine." See also Guido Rossati, Re lazione di un viaggio d'istruzione negli Stati Uniti d'America (Rome, 1900), p. 60.

12. Chautauqua Grape and Wine Association, "Chautauqua Fruits, Grapes, and Grape Products."

13. Ibid., where they are called "Italian makers of sour wine." See also Guido Rossati, Re lazione di un viaggio d'istruzione negli Stati Uniti d'America (Rome, 1900), p. 60.

14. See U. P. Hedrick, The Grapes of New York (Albany, N.Y., 1908), for accounts of all these.

15. U. P. Hedrick, "Vitis Vinifera in Eastern America," in International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report (San Francisco, 1915), P. 79.

16. R. D. Anthony, "Vinifera Grapes in New York," New York Agricultural Experiment Station Bulletin no. 432 (Geneva, N.Y., 1917).

17. American Agriculturist 25 (June 1866): 212.

18. Grape Culturist 1 (1869): 87-91, 133-35, 235-38.

19. Crisfield Johnson, History of Cuyahoga County, Ohio (Cleveland, 1879), pp. 442, 447.

20. Dwight W. Morrow, Jr., "The American Impressions of a French Botanist," Agricultural History 34 (1960): 74.

21. H. T. Dewey, "H. T. Dewey and Sons Co., Pure American Wines" (New York, n.d. [c. 1890]) (New York State Library, Albany, N.Y.).

22. John F. Polacsek, "Pop-Pop—Fizz, Fizz: A Glimpse at the Northwest Ohio Wine Industry in Years Gone By," Northwest Ohio Quarterly 53 (Spring 1981): 42-46; Rossati, Relazione , p. 86.

23. Rossati, Relazione , pp. 88-89.

24. Bert Hudgins, "The South Bass Island Community (Put-in-Bay)," Economic Geography 19 (1943): 27-28.

25. Paul Cross Morrison, "Viticulture in Ohio," Economic Geography 12 (1936): 75, 85; John H. Garber, "Alcoholic Beverages," in 12th Census, 1900, Census Reports (Washington, D.C., 1902), 9: 626; Garth A. Cahoon, ''The Ohio Wine Industry from 1860 to the Present," American Wine Society Journal 16 (Fall 1984): 86.

26. Morrison, "Viticulture in Ohio," pp. 76, 77.

27. George C. Huntington, "Historical Sketch of Kelley's Island," Fire Lands Pioneer 4 (June 1863): 48-49.

28. Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making (1880), p. 136.

29. Wine East 9 (September 1981): 11. After a fire, the winery building was bought by the Lonz family and rebuilt in a different style. It is now owned by Meier's Wine Cellars of Cincinnati.

30. J.-E. Planchon, "Le Phylloxera en Europe et en Amérique, II: La Vigne et le vin aux Etats-Unis," Revue des Deux Mondes , 15 February 1874, pp. 931 - 33.

31. Ibid., p. 933.

32. Ibid., p. 934.

33. Ibid., p. 935.

30. J.-E. Planchon, "Le Phylloxera en Europe et en Amérique, II: La Vigne et le vin aux Etats-Unis," Revue des Deux Mondes , 15 February 1874, pp. 931 - 33.

31. Ibid., p. 933.

32. Ibid., p. 934.

33. Ibid., p. 935.

30. J.-E. Planchon, "Le Phylloxera en Europe et en Amérique, II: La Vigne et le vin aux Etats-Unis," Revue des Deux Mondes , 15 February 1874, pp. 931 - 33.

31. Ibid., p. 933.

32. Ibid., p. 934.

33. Ibid., p. 935.

30. J.-E. Planchon, "Le Phylloxera en Europe et en Amérique, II: La Vigne et le vin aux Etats-Unis," Revue des Deux Mondes , 15 February 1874, pp. 931 - 33.

31. Ibid., p. 933.

32. Ibid., p. 934.

33. Ibid., p. 935.

34. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1871 (Washington, D.C., 1872), p. 231.

35. Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York, 1898), pp. 3-4.

36. Talcott E. Wing, ed., History of Monroe County, Michigan (New York, 1890), p. 426.

37. William McMurtrie, Report upon the Statistics of Grape Culture and Wine Production in the United States for 1880 (Washington, D.C., 1881), p. 22.

38. Garber, "Alcoholic Beverages," pp. 626, 634.

39. Leon Adams, The Wines of America (New York, 1985), p. 70; Garber, "Alcoholic Beverages," p. 634; ,A Compendium of the Ninth Census (June 1 1870 ) (Washington, D.C., 1872), p. 704.

40. Eastern Grape Grower and Winery News 8 (June-July 1982): 14. Winegrowing at Reading went back to the 1830s, when John Fehr, George Lauer, William Tibler, and Gottfried Pflieger, among others, planted native vines for winemaking (Robert Buchanan, The Culture of the Grape, and Wine-Making [Cincinnati, 1852], p. 61).

41. Alexander Mackay, The Western World, or Travels in the United States in 1846-1847 , 3d ed. (Philadelphia, 1850), 1: 127.

42. Harry B. Weiss, The History of Applejack or Apple Brandy in New Jersey from Colonial Times to the Present (Trenton, N.J., 1954), pp. 76, 133.

43. Carl Raymond Woodward, The Development of Agriculture in New Jersey (New Brunswick, N.J., 1927), p. 181.

44. U. P. Hedrick, Grapes and Wines from Home Vineyards (New York, 1945), p. 190.

45. Gardener's Monthly 7 (1865): 52.

46. "Egg Harbor City Wineries," Proceedings of the New Jersey Historical Society 71 (1953): 295, 297; Wines and Vines 63 (January 1982): 8.

47. H. T. Dewey, "H. T. Dewey and Sons Co."; Adams, Wines of America , p. 65.

48. "Egg Harbor City Wineries," p. 297. In "The Composition and Quality of Certain American Wines," Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1880 (Washington, D.C., 1881), p. 176, the wine is spelled "Iolhink."

49. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , pp. 4- 5.

50. U.S. Industrial Commission, Report (Washington, D.C., 1901), 15: 499; Rossati, Relazione , p. 71.

51. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , p. 7.

52. The notion that there are two kinds of wine mentioned in the Bible—one fermented and one unfermented—was first effectively brought forward about 1839 by the Reverend Eliphalet Nott, president of Union College in Schenectady, New York.

53. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , p. 9.

54. Ibid., pp. 9-17, 31-34, 68.

55. Ibid., pp. 72-73.

56. Ibid., p. 20.

57. Ibid., p. 77.

58. Ibid., p. 78.

59. Ibid., p. 74.

60. Ibid., pp. 31-32. "The National Drink" appears in The Story of a Pantry Shelf: An Outline History of Grocery Specialities (New York, 1925), p. 215.

53. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , p. 9.

54. Ibid., pp. 9-17, 31-34, 68.

55. Ibid., pp. 72-73.

56. Ibid., p. 20.

57. Ibid., p. 77.

58. Ibid., p. 78.

59. Ibid., p. 74.

60. Ibid., pp. 31-32. "The National Drink" appears in The Story of a Pantry Shelf: An Outline History of Grocery Specialities (New York, 1925), p. 215.

53. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , p. 9.

54. Ibid., pp. 9-17, 31-34, 68.

55. Ibid., pp. 72-73.

56. Ibid., p. 20.

57. Ibid., p. 77.

58. Ibid., p. 78.

59. Ibid., p. 74.

60. Ibid., pp. 31-32. "The National Drink" appears in The Story of a Pantry Shelf: An Outline History of Grocery Specialities (New York, 1925), p. 215.

53. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , p. 9.

54. Ibid., pp. 9-17, 31-34, 68.

55. Ibid., pp. 72-73.

56. Ibid., p. 20.

57. Ibid., p. 77.

58. Ibid., p. 78.

59. Ibid., p. 74.

60. Ibid., pp. 31-32. "The National Drink" appears in The Story of a Pantry Shelf: An Outline History of Grocery Specialities (New York, 1925), p. 215.

53. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , p. 9.

54. Ibid., pp. 9-17, 31-34, 68.

55. Ibid., pp. 72-73.

56. Ibid., p. 20.

57. Ibid., p. 77.

58. Ibid., p. 78.

59. Ibid., p. 74.

60. Ibid., pp. 31-32. "The National Drink" appears in The Story of a Pantry Shelf: An Outline History of Grocery Specialities (New York, 1925), p. 215.

53. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , p. 9.

54. Ibid., pp. 9-17, 31-34, 68.

55. Ibid., pp. 72-73.

56. Ibid., p. 20.

57. Ibid., p. 77.

58. Ibid., p. 78.

59. Ibid., p. 74.

60. Ibid., pp. 31-32. "The National Drink" appears in The Story of a Pantry Shelf: An Outline History of Grocery Specialities (New York, 1925), p. 215.

53. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , p. 9.

54. Ibid., pp. 9-17, 31-34, 68.

55. Ibid., pp. 72-73.

56. Ibid., p. 20.

57. Ibid., p. 77.

58. Ibid., p. 78.

59. Ibid., p. 74.

60. Ibid., pp. 31-32. "The National Drink" appears in The Story of a Pantry Shelf: An Outline History of Grocery Specialities (New York, 1925), p. 215.

53. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , p. 9.

54. Ibid., pp. 9-17, 31-34, 68.

55. Ibid., pp. 72-73.

56. Ibid., p. 20.

57. Ibid., p. 77.

58. Ibid., p. 78.

59. Ibid., p. 74.

60. Ibid., pp. 31-32. "The National Drink" appears in The Story of a Pantry Shelf: An Outline History of Grocery Specialities (New York, 1925), p. 215.

61. Chazanof, Welch's Grape Juice , pp. 89-90, 95.

62. Story of a Pantry Shelf , p. 217.

63. Leslie Hewes, "Tontitown: Ozark Vineyard Center," Economic Geography 29 (1953): 140, says that there were 5,000 acres of vines in the Springdale region in 1923.

64. Grape Culturist 2 (1870): 202-3; 3 (1871): 146.

65. Planchon wrote that Kelley's wines, the whites especially, were superior to the ordinary wines of the Midi (J.-E. Planchon, Les Vignes américaines [Montpellier, 1875], p. 70).

66. Grape Culturist 1 (1869): 45-47.

67. Grape Culturist 1 (1869): 45-47, 86-87, 172.

68. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1867 (Washington, D.C., 1868), p. 388.

69. H. D. Hooker, "George Husmann," Missouri Historical Review 23 (1929): 357.

70. Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making , p. v.

71. Alexis Millardet, "Traitement du mildiou et du rot," Journal d'Ariculture Pratique 2 (1885): 513-16, 707-10.

72. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Botanical Division, Circular no. 3 (April 1887); First Report of the Secretary of Agriculture, 1889 (Washington, D.C., 1889), pp. 399-405.

73. Dr. J. R. McGrew, "A Review of the Origin of Hybrid Grape Varieties," American Wine Society Special Bulletin (Ithaca, N.Y., February 1971), p. 2.

74. History of Franklin, Jefferson, Washington, Crawford and Gasconade Counties (Chicago, 1888), p. 1112; Charles G. Van Ravenswaay, The Arts and Architecture of German Settlements in Missouri (Columbia, Mo., 1977), p. 256n.; Walter Williams, ed., The State of Missouri (Columbia, Mo., 1904). pp. 388-89·

75. History of Franklin, Jefferson, Washington, Crawford and Gasconade Counties , p. 1087.

76. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1871 (Washington, D.C., 1872), p. 373.

77. George Ordish, The Great Wine Blight (London, 1972), pp. 41, 61.

78. Ibid., p. 30

77. George Ordish, The Great Wine Blight (London, 1972), pp. 41, 61.

78. Ibid., p. 30

79. Hooker, "George Husmann," p. 357.

80. Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making , p. vii.

81. Ordish, Great Wine Blight , pp. 114-15.

82. G. C. Husmann, "Resistant Vines," in International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report (San Francisco, 1915), P. 46.

83. Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making , pp. 106-7; Hermann Jaeger, in Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making , 4th ed., 1896, pp. 110-11; Bush and Son and

Meissner, Illustrated Descriptive Catalogue of American Grape Vines , 3d ed. (St. Louis, 1883), pp. 24-26; Ordish, Great Wine Blight , ch. 11.

84. Liberty Hyde Bailey, The Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture (New York, 1914-17), 3:1581.

85. Pierre Viala, Une Mission viticole en Amérique (Montpellier, 1889), p. 84.

86. R. E. Subden and A. C. Noble, "How the Hybrids Came to Canada," Wines and Vines 59 (December 1978): 42.

87. McMurtrie, Report upon the Statistics of Grape Culture , p. 76. Grapes grew on the university farm even before Husmann's arrival, and the undergraduates' raid on the wine made from them in 1871 and stored in a university building is the subject of one of the first published verses of Eugene Field, then a student at Mizzou.

88. Husmann was said to have been among the first to send native stocks to California ( American Wine Press and Mineral Water News , 5 April 1897, p. 15). Husmann's son recalled that his father had sent 120,000 cuttings of native varieties to Simonton (George C. Husmann, "Viticulture of Napa County," in Tom Gregory et al., History of Solano and Napa Counties [Los Angeles, 1912], p. 148).

89. Husmann, Grape Culture and Wine-Making , p. 68.

90. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1868 (Washington, D.C., 1869), pp. 519-20.

91. Ibid., p. 217.

90. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1868 (Washington, D.C., 1869), pp. 519-20.

91. Ibid., p. 217.

92. Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making , pp. 184-85.

93. Thomas Gregg, History of Hancock County, Illinois (Chicago, 1880), p. 960; Adams, Wines of America , p. 144.

94. Mildred B. McCormick, "A Land of Corn and Wine," Springhouse Magazine 2 (May-June 1985): 38-39.

95. Grape Culturist 1 (1869): 228, 300-302; 2 (1870): inside back cover; Dictionary of American Biography (for Hecker); Schneiter to Shorb, 16 March 1891 (Shorb Papers); Past and Present of Rock Island County, Illinois (Chicago, 1877), p. 374.

96. Adolph Blankenhorn, Uber den Weinbau der Vereinigten Staaten yon Nordamerika... Briefwechsel zwischen Adolph Blankenhorn und Friedrich Hecker in den Jahren 1872-1880 (Darmstadt, 1883).

97. See the references to their work in Hedrick, Grapes of New York .

98. Kansas State Temperance Union, Prohibition in Kansas: Facts, Not Opinions (Topeka, 1890), p. 4.

99. "Les Canzes nous apportent du raisin en quantité, dont nous faisons du vin, que nous buvons tousles jours et que nous trouvons fort bien" ("Relation de voyage du Sieur de Bourgmont," in Pierre Margry, ed., Découvertes et établissements des Français dans l'Amérique septentrionale, 1614-1754 [Paris, 1875-86], 6: 403).

100. Meriwether Lewis and William Clark, Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806 ; ed. Reuben Gold Thwaites (New York, 1904-5), 1:63 (1 July 1804).

101. Kate Stephens, Life at Laurel Town (Lawrence, Kans., 1920), p. 3.

102. T.J. Willard, Log Cabin Days ([Manhattan? Kans.], 1929), pp. 53-54.

103. A.M. Burns, "The Cultivation of the Grape," introductory essay to catalogue (Manhattan, Kans., 1866), pp. 1, 4 (Kansas State Historical Society).

104. Ibid., p. 4.

103. A.M. Burns, "The Cultivation of the Grape," introductory essay to catalogue (Manhattan, Kans., 1866), pp. 1, 4 (Kansas State Historical Society).

104. Ibid., p. 4.

105. Alfred T. Andreas, History of the State of Kansas (Chicago, 1883), p. 476.

106. Kansas State Board of Agriculture, Transactions, 1872 (Topeka, 1873), pp. 204-5; Douglas County Bicentennial Commission, Douglas County Historic Building Survey — A Photo Sampler (Lawrence, 1976), unpaginated. Vinland is named after the vineyard maintained there by the nurseryman W. E. Barnes from 1857 (Andreas, History of the State of Kansas , p. 356).

107. Grape Culturist 3 (June 1871): 143.

108. Kansas State Horticultural Society, Transactions, 1871 (Topeka, 1872), pp. 26-27.

109. Ibid., pp. 72-75; Kansas State Horticultural Society, Transactions, 1872 (Topeka, 1873), PP. 153-57.

108. Kansas State Horticultural Society, Transactions, 1871 (Topeka, 1872), pp. 26-27.

109. Ibid., pp. 72-75; Kansas State Horticultural Society, Transactions, 1872 (Topeka, 1873), PP. 153-57.

110. Kansas State Board of Agriculture, Transactions, 1873 (Topeka, 1874), pp. 150-52.

111. Kansas State Board of Agriculture, Transactions, 1874 (Topeka, 1875), p. 235.

112. Kansas State College, Agricultural Experiment Station, Bulletin no. 14 (Topeka, 1891); no. 28 (Topeka, 1892); no. 44 (Manhattan, 1894).

113. Kansas State Board of Agriculture, Transactions, 1872 , p. 27.

114. Kansas State Horticultural Society, How to Grow and Use the Grape in Kansas , compiled and revised by William H. Barnes ([Topeka], 1901).

115. Ibid., p. 123.

114. Kansas State Horticultural Society, How to Grow and Use the Grape in Kansas , compiled and revised by William H. Barnes ([Topeka], 1901).

115. Ibid., p. 123.

116. Orange Judd Farmer , 1 February 1896, p. 109.

117. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1866 (Washington, D.C., 1867), pp. 115- 18.

118. San Francisco Merchant , 21 December 1883, p. 164.

119. Emile Vallet, An Icanian Communist in Nauvoo , ed. H. Roger Grant (Springfield, Ill., 1971 ), p. 25.

120. Adams, Wines of America , p. 143.

121. Robert V. Hine, California's Utopian Colonies (New Haven, 1965), p. 71

122. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1871 , p. 231.

123. Hine, California's Utopian Colonies , p. 71.

124. Garrett R. Carpenter, "Silkville: A Kansas Attempt in the History of Fourierist Utopias, 1869- 1892," Emporia State Research Studies 3 (1954): 13, 18, 24, 25.

125. Amana Society, "The Amana Colonies" ([Amana Colonies, Iowa], 1969), no pagination. The Prestele family, Joseph and his sons Gottlieb and William Henry, were artists in Amana specializing in horticultural illustration. William Henry became one of the official artists of the Department of Agriculture in Washington. His paintings of native American grape varieties made to illustrate a comprehensive report by T. V. Munson at the end of the century have never been published. They are still preserved in the Department of Agriculture and—who knows?—may yet one day be brought to the light of publication. They would make both a handsome and a historic work.

126. 11th Census, 1890, Report on the Statistics of Agriculture in the United States (Washington, D.C., 1895), p. 604.

1. Leon Adams, The Wines of America (Boston, 1973), p. 150.

2. U. P. Hedrick, The Grapes of New York (Albany, N.Y., 1908), p. 229.

3. According to the list of varietal wines produced in the United States published annually in the September number of Wines and Vines .

4. Andrew Rolle, The Immigrant Upraised (Norman, Okla., 1968), p. 77.

5. Allessandro Mastro-Valerio, "Italians," in U.S. Industrial Commission, Reports (Washington, D.C., 1901), 15: 505.

6. Rolle, Immigrant Upraised , p. 79.

7. John L. Mathews, "Tontitown," Everybody's 20 (January 1909): 9; Mastro-Valerio, "Italians," pp. 505-6.

8. Mathews, "Tontitown," p. 9.

9. Leslie Hewes, "Tontitown: Ozark Vineyard Center," Economic Geography 29 (1953): 139-40.

10. Ibid., p. 140.

9. Leslie Hewes, "Tontitown: Ozark Vineyard Center," Economic Geography 29 (1953): 139-40.

10. Ibid., p. 140.

11. Mastro-Valerio, "Italians," p. 506; U.S. Immigration Commission, Report (Washington, D.C., 1911), 21: 380.

12. The standard discussions of the Sunnyside Italians do not name him; John Stewart says he was A.M. Piazza ("Little Italy of the Ozarks," Missouri Life 3 [July-August 1975]: 40).

13. Mastro-Valerio, "Italians," p. 506.

14. Eastern Grape Grower and Winery News 10 (August-September 1984): 34.

15. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1859, Part II(Washington , D.C., 1860), p. 35.

16. Terry G. Jordan, German Seed in Texas Soil: Immigrant Farmers in Nineteenth-Century Texas (Austin, 1966), p. 43.

17. Julia Nott Waugh, Castro-Ville and Henry Castro, Empresario (San Antonio, 1934), pp. 21, 25, 38-39

18. Jordan, German Seed p. 48.

19. One of these hopeful Germans was Julius Dresel, a native of the great Rheingau wine town of Geisenheim, who planted Riesling vines on the Guadalupe River in southeast Texas in 1850. Twenty years later he migrated to California to take over the pioneer vineyard in Sonoma that his brother Emil had founded with Jacob Gundlach ( Illustrated History of Sonoma County [Chicago, 1889], p. 506).

20. Jordan, German Seed p. 78.

21. Report of the Commissioner of Patents, 1847 (Washington, D.C., 1848), p. 199.

22. Liberty Hyde Bailey, "The Species of Grapes Peculiar to North America," Gentes Herbarum 3 (1934): 213.

23. See, e.g., the reports of Gilbert Onderdonk in George Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making (New York, 1880), pp. 145-52; and Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1887 (Washington, D.C., 1888), p. 652.

24. Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making 4th ed. (New York, 1896), p. 123; Guido Rossati, Relazione di un viaggio d'istruzione negli Stati Uniti d'America (Rome, 1900), p. 348; Mastro-Valerio, "Italians," p. 500; Virginia H. Taylor, The Franco-Texan Land Company (Austin, 1969), p. 291 .

25. On the Val Verde Winery, see American Wine Society Journal 13 (Summer 1981): 52.

26. Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture, 1887 , p. 652.

27. See Frank Giordano, Texas Wines and Wineries (Austin, 1984), pp. 123-32; Wines and Vines 66 (September 1985): 24-34.

28. Pierre Viala, Une Mission viticole en Amérique (Montpellier, 1889), p. 206.

29. A sketch of Munson's life is in the Dictionary of American Biography .

30. Quoted in T. V. Munson Memorial Vineyard Report 2 (April 1982): [2].

31. Munson's major publication is Foundations of American Grape Culture (Denison, Tex., 1909). This contains a summary of his work, pp. 5-11.

32. Ibid.

31. Munson's major publication is Foundations of American Grape Culture (Denison, Tex., 1909). This contains a summary of his work, pp. 5-11.

32. Ibid.

33. LeRoy H. Fischer, "The Fairchild Winery," Chronicles of Oklahoma 55 (Summer 1977): 135-56.

34. Munson's pronouncement was on the occasion of a grape exhibit held in 1899 by the Territorial Horticultural Association, Oklahoma City ( American Wine Press , September 1899, p. 22).

35. Fischer, "Fairchild Winery," p. 155.

36. Carolyn Baker Lewis, "Cultural Conservatism and Pioneer Florida Viticulture," Agricultural History 53 (July 1979): 627, 630-31.

37. Ibid., p. 631; Rossati, Relazione , p. 363.

36. Carolyn Baker Lewis, "Cultural Conservatism and Pioneer Florida Viticulture," Agricultural History 53 (July 1979): 627, 630-31.

37. Ibid., p. 631; Rossati, Relazione , p. 363.

38. Lewis, "Cultural Conservatism and Pioneer Florida Viticulture," p. 632.

39. Mastro-Valerio, "Italians," pp. 504-5; U.S. Immigration Commission, Report , 21: 301, 303.

40. Alabama Fruit Growing and Winery Association, undated company brochure, California State University Library, Fresno; Rossati, Relazione , p. 362; Birmingham News , to November 1965.

41. American Wine Press 3 (15 March 1898): 12; promotional map of Vinemont for Alabama Vineyard and Winery Company, undated (California State University Library, Fresno).

42. DeBow's Review , n.s., 2 (1866): 269, reported 300-acres of vineyard around Aiken.

43. First Report of the Secretary of Agriculture, 1889 (Washington, D.C., 1889), p. 401.

44. San Francisco Merchant , 18 March 1887.

45. First Report of the Secretary of Agriculture, 1889 , pp. 400 - 3.

46. San Francisco Merchant , 17 July 1885, pp. 97-98; Hermann Schuricht, History of the German Element in Virginia (Baltimore), 2 (1900): 132-33.

47. C. C. Pearson and J. E. Hendricks, Liquor and Anti-Liquor in Virginia, 1619- 1919 (Durham, N.C., 1967), p. 179n.; John Hammond Moore, Albemarle, Jefferson's County, 1727-1976 (Charlottesville, 1976), p. 250.

48. San Francisco Merchant , 17 July 1885; Schuricht, History of the German Element in Virgina , 2: 133.

49. S. W. Fletcher, "A History of Fruit Growing in Virginia," Proceedings of the 37th Annual Meeting of the Virginia Horticultural Society (Staunton, Va., 1932), pp. 4-6.

50. Moore, Albemarle , p. 250.

51. 11th Census, 1890, Report on the Statistics of Agriculture in the United States (Washington, D.C., 1895), p. 602; 12th Census, 1900, Census Reports , 9 (1902): 634.

52. 13th Census, 1910, Agriculture 1909 and 1910 (Washington, D.C., 1913), p. 717.

53. According to a note by J.-E. Planchon in the French edition of the Bush & Son & Meissner catalogue, 1876.

54. San Francisco Merchant , 8 February 1884.

55. Jules-Emile Planchon, Les Vignes américaines (Montpellier, 1875), p. 40n.

56. Clarence Gohdes, Scuppernong: North Carolina's Grape and Its Wines (Durham, N.C., 1982), P. 39.

57. Ibid., p. 42; Adams, Wines of America , p. 44.

56. Clarence Gohdes, Scuppernong: North Carolina's Grape and Its Wines (Durham, N.C., 1982), P. 39.

57. Ibid., p. 42; Adams, Wines of America , p. 44.

58. Gohdes, Scuppernong , pp. 43, 48.

59. Ibid., p. 51.

60. Ibid., p. 49.

61. Ibid., pp. 57-58.

58. Gohdes, Scuppernong , pp. 43, 48.

59. Ibid., p. 51.

60. Ibid., p. 49.

61. Ibid., pp. 57-58.

58. Gohdes, Scuppernong , pp. 43, 48.

59. Ibid., p. 51.

60. Ibid., p. 49.

61. Ibid., pp. 57-58.

58. Gohdes, Scuppernong , pp. 43, 48.

59. Ibid., p. 51.

60. Ibid., p. 49.

61. Ibid., pp. 57-58.

62. Adams, Wines of America , p. 45.

63. Gohdes, Scuppernong , p. 29.

64. Ibid., p. 32; American Wine Press , 5 June 1897.

63. Gohdes, Scuppernong , p. 29.

64. Ibid., p. 32; American Wine Press , 5 June 1897.

65. Gohdes, Scuppernong , pp. 32-33.

66. North Carolina State Horticultural Society, Report (Raleigh, N.C., 1893), p. 16.

67. A few growers from Colorado responded to the Department of Agriculture's survey of national winegrowing in 1880; one gave his opinion that "the foot-hills of the Rocky Mountains are specially adapted to vineyards." In the same survey it was reported that some of the Russian Hutterites in Bon Homme County, Dakota (then still a territory, and undivided) had succeeded in growing grapes (William McMurtrie, Report upon the Statistics of Grape Culture and Wine Production in the United States for 1880 [Washington, D.C., 1881], p. 48). In the Directory of the Grape Growers, Wine Makers and Distillers of California published by the California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners in 1891, a total of two and a half acres were reported for Colorado and Dakota. Montana and Wyoming did not become states until 1889 and 1890 respectively, and neither figures in any of the published reports or surveys after the dates of their statehood. There is now a winery operating in Montana, but it has, I think, no predecessor.

68. The Vergennes grape originated in 1874, the Green Mountain before 1885.

69. See, e.g., Husmann, American Grape Growing and Wine Making , 4th ed., pp. 117-18; Rossati,

Relazione , P. 359.

70. The English traveller Adlard Welby found vineyards at Wheeling, West Virginia, in 1819 (Reuben Gold Thwaites, ed., Early Western Travels, 1748-1846 [Cleveland, 1904-7], 12: 204). The Friend Winery at Dunbar, West Virginia, was established in the 1850s ( Eastern Grape Grower and Winery News 8 [1982]: 10).

71. Minnesota Grape Growers Association, Growing Grapes in Minnesota (n.p., 1978), p. 1.

72. Hedrick, Grapes of New York , pp. 438-39.

73. Minneapolis Tribune , 10 September 1978.

74. Adams, Wines of America , pp. 348-49; a report by A. B. Ballantyne, "Grape Growing in Utah," appears in the Official Report of the International Congress of Viticulture (San Francisco, 1915), pp. 102-6.

75. Reed W. Farnsworth, The Power of Adversity (n.p., n.d.), pp. 133-42.

76. Scofield to Shorb, 7 April 1888; H.R. Patrick to Shorb, 6 August 1890 (Shorb Papers, Huntington Library). 11th Census, 1890, Report on the Statistics of Agriculture , p. 602.

77. J. R. Cardwell, "The First Fruits of the Land: A Brief History of Early Horticulture in Oregon," Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society 7 (1906): 29.

78. Ibid., p. 34; E. R. Lake, "The Grape in Oregon," Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station Bulletin no. 66 (Corvallis, June 1901), p. 63.

77. J. R. Cardwell, "The First Fruits of the Land: A Brief History of Early Horticulture in Oregon," Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society 7 (1906): 29.

78. Ibid., p. 34; E. R. Lake, "The Grape in Oregon," Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station Bulletin no. 66 (Corvallis, June 1901), p. 63.

79. Transactions of the California State Agricultural Society,, 1859 (Sacramento, 1860), pp. 180, 270.

80. Cardwell, "First Fruits of the Land," p. 31.

81. Grape Culturist 2 (March 1870): 75; Premium list in Catalogue of Oregon State Fair, 1876, 1877.

82. Elizabeth Purser and Lawrence J. Allen, The Winemakers of the Pacific Nortliwest (Vashon Island, Wash., 1977), p. 154.

83. By Richard Sommer, at Hillcrest Vineyard, near Roseburg (Adams, Wines of America , p. 341).

84. Lake, "The Grape in Oregon," p. 71.

85. His name was David Hill (Tom Stockley, Winery, Trails of the Pacific Northwest [Mercer Island, Wash., 1977], p. 5).

86. C. I. Lewis, "The Grape in Oregon," in International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report , pp. 91-97.

87. Grape Culturist 2 (October 1869): 297; Northwest Wine Almanac , November 1985, p. 1.

88. Purser and Allen, Winemakers of the Pacific Northwest , p. 66.

89. E. H. Twight, "The Vineyards of the Columbia River Basin," in International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report , pp. 89- 91.

90. Ibid., p. 90. Robert N. Wing, "Lewiston, Idaho, and Clarkston, Washington: Home of

Northwest's First Wineries?" Wine Almanac of the Pacific Northwest , 16 November 1987, pp. 1-2. Robert Schleicher published "Grape Culture in Lewiston-Clarkston Valley" (Lewiston, Idaho, and Clarkston, Wash., 1906).

89. E. H. Twight, "The Vineyards of the Columbia River Basin," in International Congress of Viticulture, Official Report , pp. 89- 91.

90. Ibid., p. 90. Robert N. Wing, "Lewiston, Idaho, and Clarkston, Washington: Home of

Northwest's First Wineries?" Wine Almanac of the Pacific Northwest , 16 November 1987, pp. 1-2. Robert Schleicher published "Grape Culture in Lewiston-Clarkston Valley" (Lewiston, Idaho, and Clarkston, Wash., 1906).

1. In fact, nearer fifteen years, if one counts the period of "wartime" prohibition in 1919; but that was largely a distraction from the main event. In this chapter, I use "prohibition" for general reference, but "Prohibition" for the period of constitutional prohibition in the United States.

2. The term of all work used by the Drys in their propaganda for any alcoholic drink whatever. It helped inspire this definition by Ambrose Bierce in The Devil's Dictionary (1906): " WINE ; n ., Fermented grape juice known to the Womens' Christian Union as 'liquor', sometimes as 'rum'. Wine, madam, is God's next best gift to man."

3. See the poem excitedly anticipating the production of wine in Georgia written by John Wesley's brother Samuel, quoted on pp. 45-46, above.

4. Herbert Asbury, The Great Illusions. An Informal History of Prohibition (Garden City, N.Y., 1950), p. 15.

5. John Kobler, Ardent Spirits: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition (New York, 1973), p 41-42.

6. In the South, the fear of the combination of alcohol and blacks powerfully aided prohibition (Clarence Gohdes, Scuppernong: North Carolina's Grape and Its Wines [Durham, N.C., 1982], p. 52).

7. Kobler, Ardent Spirits , pp. 50- 51.

8. John Allen Krout, The Origins of Prohibition (New York, 1925), p. 90.

9. Ibid., p. 263.

8. John Allen Krout, The Origins of Prohibition (New York, 1925), p. 90.

9. Ibid., p. 263.

10. Quoted in Alice Felt Tyler, Freedom's Ferment; Phases of American Social History to 1860 (Minneapolis, 1944), p. 323.

11. Asbury, Great Illusion , pp. 12-13.

12. Tyler, Freedom's Ferment , p. 372.

13. Wines and Vines 67 (July 1986): 22.

14. W.J. Rorabaugh, The Alcoholic Republic (New York, 1979), pp. 107-10.

15. Gallus Thomann, Liquor Laws of the United States (New York, 1885), pp. 113, 136, 141,196.

16. Kobler, Ardent Spirits , pp. 60, 62.

17. Ibid., pp. 70-73.

16. Kobler, Ardent Spirits , pp. 60, 62.

17. Ibid., pp. 70-73.

18. Virginius Dabney, Dry Messiah: The Life of Bishop Cannon (New York, 1949), P- 6.

19. Mark Twain, Huckleberry Finn (1884), ch. 5.

20. The word is of disputed etymology, though it is usually attributed to an English workingman named Dicky Turner in 1833; some explanations hold that Turner was a stammerer; others, that the initial "tee" is an intensifier. Yet another holds that it came from putting a T before the names of total abstainers on the membership list of a New York temperance society (Ernest H. Cherrington, Tile Evolution of Prohibition in the United States of America [Westerville, Ohio, 1920], p. 83). All seem to agree that "tee" has nothing whatever to do with tea-drinking, though that is an easy and obvious confusion to make (Brian Harrison, Drink and the Victorians [London, 1971], pp. 125, 126).

21. Kobler, Ardent Spirits , pp. 56- 57.

22. Ibid., pp. 84-85.

21. Kobler, Ardent Spirits , pp. 56- 57.

22. Ibid., pp. 84-85.

23. Of the principle of the Maine Law, John Stuart Mill wrote that "there is no violation of liberty which it would not justify" (On Liberty [1859], ch. 4).

24. Asbury, Great Illusion , p. 60.

25. Kobler, Ardent Spirits , p. 356.

26. Ibid., p. 90.

25. Kobler, Ardent Spirits , p. 356.

26. Ibid., p. 90.

27. Thomann, Liquor Laws , p. 211.

28. Alcohol had been untaxed till then except just after the Revolution (when the tax provoked the so-called "Whiskey Rebellion") and, briefly, during and after the War of 1812.

29. Gilman M. Ostrander, The Prohibition Movement in California, 1848-1933 (Berkeley, 1957), pp. 71-72. I may add that my own grandmother, early in this century, organized a chapter of the Woman's Christian Temperance Union in Anaheim, where once the innocent Germans had made wine without thought of giving offense to any Christian.

30. Ibid., p. 132.

29. Gilman M. Ostrander, The Prohibition Movement in California, 1848-1933 (Berkeley, 1957), pp. 71-72. I may add that my own grandmother, early in this century, organized a chapter of the Woman's Christian Temperance Union in Anaheim, where once the innocent Germans had made wine without thought of giving offense to any Christian.

30. Ibid., p. 132.

31. Dabney, Dry Messiah , pp. 98-99, 102.

32. Kobler, Ardent Spirits , p. 157.

33. Dabney, Dry Messiah , p. 57.

34. Asbury, Great Illusion , pp. 100- 101.

35. Ibid., p. 122.

34. Asbury, Great Illusion , pp. 100- 101.

35. Ibid., p. 122.

36. Kobler, Ardent Spirits , p. 197.

37. Asbury, Great Illusion , p. 128.

38. Ibid., p. 136.

37. Asbury, Great Illusion , p. 128.

38. Ibid., p. 136.

39. The National Prohibition Act may be found in United States Statutes at Large , 66th Cong., 41 (1919-21): part 1, 305-23; Hoover's phrase is in his speech accepting the presidential nomination in 1928: see Hoover's Memoirs, 1920-1933 (New York, 1952), p. 201.

40. Thomann, Liquor Laws , p. 161.

41. The California Grape Protective Association, formed by Andrea Sbarboro of Italian Swiss Colony and others to fight the prohibition movement, was not organized until 1908 (John R. Meers, "The California Wine and Grape Industry and Prohibition," California Historical Society Quarterly 46 [1967]: 21).

42. United States Statutes at Large , 41: part 1, 307-23.

43. In the first year there were only 1,512 Prohibition agents for the entire country, and at no time were there more than 3,000 (Kobler, Ardent Spirits , p. 270).

44. Ernest H. Cherrington, ed., Standard Encyclopedia of the Alcohol Problem (Westerville, Ohio), 6 (1930): 2877.

45. The wine produced in California and stored under the Prohibition agency's bond rose from 17,000,000 gallons in 1920 to 40,000,000 gallons in 1924. Many arrests for illegal sales of wine from this source seem to have been made: see Kenneth D. Rose, "San Francisco and Prohibition in 1924: Wettest in the West," California History 65 (1986): 289.

46. Leon Adams, The Wines of America , 3d ed. (New York, 1985), p. 25.

47. Ostrander, Prohibition Movement in California , p. 179.

48. Ruth Teiser and Catherine Harroun, Winemaking in California (New York, 1983), p. 182; Ostrander, Prohibition Movement in California , p. 180.

49. Dabney, Dry Messiah , p. 304.

50. Adams, Wines of America, 1st ed ., p. 27.

51. Alice Tisdale Hobart, The Cup and tile Sword (Indianapolis, 1942), p. 60.

52. Ruth Teiser and Catherine Harroun, "The Volstead Act, Rebirth, and Boom," in Doris Muscatine, Maynard A. Amerine, and Bob Thompson, eds., The University of California/ Sotheby Book of California Wine (Berkeley, 1984), p. 57; Ostrander, Prohibition Movement in California , p. 181.

53. Philip Wagner, American Wines and Wine-Making (New York, 1956), pp. 51 - 52.

54. Frank Schoonmaker, Encyclopedia of Wine (New York, 1964), pp. 358-67.

55. The Concord grape, useless for good winemaking, already dominated in eastern vineyards before Prohibition; but Prohibition greatly confirmed and extended that dominance.

56. New York Times , 28 April 1929, sec. 3.

57. The guess of the Wickersham Commission, appointed to inquire into the enforcement of the Prohibition laws, was that home production of wine averaged 111,000,000 gallons annually from 1922 through 1929 ( National Commission on Law Observance and Enforcement [Washington, D.C., 1931], 1: 128).

58. Thomann, Liquor Laws , pp. 187-88.

59. Adams, Wines of America , 1st ed., pp. 30-31.

60. To take one from a vast number of descriptions, here is a passage from D. H. Lawrence's novel, St. Mawr (1925); the characters are Americans: "Lou and her mother lunched at the Hotel d'Angleterre [in Havana], and Mrs. Witt watched transfixed while a couple of her countrymen, a stout successful man and his wife, lunched abroad. They had cocktails—then lobster—and a bottle of hock—then a bottle of champagne—then a half-bottle of port—And Mrs. Witt rose in haste as the liqueurs came. For that successful man and his wife had gone on imbibing with a sort of fixed and deliberate will, apparently tasting nothing, but saying to themselves: Now we're drinking Rhine wine! Now we're drinking 1912 Champagne. Yah, Prohibition! Thou canst not put it over me."

1. John Bonoeil, His Majesties Gracious Letter to the Earle of South-Hampton . . .commanding the present setting up of Silke works, and planting of Vines in Virginia (London, 1622), p. 49.

2. These citations may all be found in Mitford Mathews, A Dictionary of Americanisms (Chicago, 1951), and Sir William Craigie and James R. Hulbert, eds., A Dictionary of American English (Chicago, 1938).

3. Albert C. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania, West New Jersey, and Delaware (New York, 1912), p. 227.

4. This theory is mentioned, only to be dismissed, in Richard R. Nelson, "From Whence Came the Fox?" Pennsylvania Grape Letter 5 (October 1977): 3.

5. Liberty Hyde Bailey, Sketch of the Evolution of Our Native Fruits (New York, 1898), p. 6.

6. American Farmer 10 (20 February 1829): 388.

7. Bailey, Evolution of Our Native Fruits , p. 5.

8. Cited in Liberty Hyde Bailey, "The Species of Grapes Peculiar to North America," Gentes Herbarum 3 (1934): 187.

9. Vintage Magazine 2 (April 1973): 41.

10. William Bartram says that "many have imagined" the name to have arisen because such grapes were "the favourite food of the animal" (Bartram, in James Mease, ed., Domestic Encyclopaedia [Philadelphia, 1803-4], 5: 290). Bartram dismisses the idea.

11. U.S. Tariff Commission, Grapes, Raisins, and Wines , Report no. 134, 2d ser. (Washington, D.C. [1939]), p. 22.

12. Clarence Gohdes, Scuppernong: North Carolina's Grape and Its Wines (Durham, N.C., 1982), p. 25.

13. Myers, ed., Narratives of Early Pennsylvania , p. 227.

14. For example, Jules-Emile Planchon, Les Vignes américaines (Montpellier, 1875), p. 131.

15. Revue des Deux Mondes , 15 February 1874, p. 914

16. Frank Thorpy, Wine in New Zealand (Auckland, 1971), p. 57.

17. Michael Allen, The Long Holiday (London, 1974), p. 22.

18. New York State Agricultural Experiment Station, 1972 Wine Meeting for Amateurs , Special Report no. 12 (Geneva, N.Y., 1973), p. 10.

1. See Eero Alanne, "Observations on the Development and Structure of English Wine-Growing Terminology," Mémoires de la sociéténéophilologique de Helsinki 20 (1957): 30.

2. Jefferson Peyser, in Wines and Vines 64 (March 1983): 24. Leon Adams says that he introduced the term into the language of post-Repeal California winemaking ("Revitalizing the California Wine Industry," California Wine Industry Oral History Project, Regional Oral History Project [Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, 1974]). Both Peyser and Adams were active in the effort to get a California wine marketing order after Repeal.

3. American Wine Society, Journal 17 (Winter 1985): 107.