1. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:246.

2. Robert Rossi, "Post-Repeal Wine Consumption," Wines and Vines 16, 1 (January 1935): 3-4.

3. "Wine Men Gather," St. Helena Star , April 10, 1936, p. 1.

4. "Buyers for Wine," St. Helena Star , February 16, 1934, p. 8.

5. The legacy of this grafting is discussed later in chapter 3. The Alicante Bouschet, a hybrid developed by Henri Bouschet as a teinture , or coloring variety, for Southern France, had remarkable coloring properties. During Prohibition, Alicante skins could be mixed with sugar and water and refermented to produce a "second" wine. Reports indicate that 500-600 gallons of such "wine" could be produced from a ton of Alicante Bouschet. See Maynard A. Amerine and Vernon L. Singleton, Wine: An Introduction , 2d ed. (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1972), p. 288.

6. Jessie S. Blout, A Brief Economic History of the California Wine-Growing Industry (San Francisco: Bureau of Markets, California Department of Agriculture, 1943), p. 5.

7. Maynard Amerine, letter to George Alcorn, quoted in James Lapsley, "Note: Popular Courses in Wine Appreciation," in The University of California / Sotheby Book of California Wine , ed. Doris Muscatine, M. A. Amerine, and Bob Thompson (Berkeley: University of California Press; London: Sotheby Publications, 1984), p. 454.

1. Frederic Bioletti, "Winemaking on a Small Scale" (reprint of a University of California pamphlet), Wines and Vines 16, 8 (August 1935): 5.

2. The Wine Review counted sixty-eight operating wineries in 1936, while Wines and Vines only tallied sixty-six. See "Grape Crop Summary," Wine Review , March 1936, p. 11; "Grape Districts of the Coast Region," Wines and Vines 17, 9 (September 1936): 8.

3. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:15; Robert Mondavi, Creativity in the California Wine Industry (BL), p. 11.

4. For much of this biographical material on Georges de Latour, see Ruth Teiser and Catherine Harroun's interview with André Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology (BL), pp. 43-44, and Richard G. Peterson's interviews with Tchelistcheff, cited in n. 3 above. There is also a section on de Latour in William F. Heintz, Wine Country: A History of Napa Valley: The Early Years, 1838-1920 (Santa Barbara: Capra Press, 1990), pp. 289-93.

5. Heintz, Wine Country , pp. 291-92; Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2: 37-38.

6. Archbishop of San Francisco, letter to Georges de Latour, March 25, 1920, in Beaulieu file, box 47, BATF records.

7. "Memorandum to the Administrator," December 21, 1925; letter to federal Prohibition administrator, December 18, 1925, Beaulieu Files, BATF records.

8. Ernest A. Wente, Wine Making in the Livermore Valley (BL), pp. 65-66.

9. The Beaulieu distribution system is well described in a letter from de Latour to the Prohibition commissioner dated July 7, 1921, in Beaulieu file, box 47, BATF records.

10. Georges de Latour, letter to federal Prohibition commissioner, August 15, 1922, in Beaulieu file, box 47, BATF records.

11. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , pp. 47, 49. No sales figures are available from Beaulieu, and it should be remembered that Tchelistcheff did not arrive at Beaulieu until 1938. Still, his estimates seem to be in keeping with the sales of other wineries in the first years after Repeal.

12. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:13.

13. "Wine Juries Select California Blue Ribbon Wines for 1939," Wines and Vines 20, 10 (October 1939): 14-15. Unlike in current competitions, the judgings of the 1930s generally awarded just one gold, silver, and bronze in each category, no matter how many wines were entered.

14. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:5; Louis M. Martini and Louis P. Martini, Wine Making in the Napa Valley (BL), p. 54.

15. Tchelistcheff describes his first meal at Beaulieu in 1938, a multicourse affair starting with crayfish, running through trout and pheasant, and ending with fruit, all grown on the estate. See Grapes, Wine and Ecology , pp. 36-37.

16. In his interviews in HNV , Tchelistcheff says he first met de Latour in 1933, but he must be mistaken. In the Bancroft oral history, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , in which he describes the problems associated with acquiring a work permit to emigrate to the United States during the depression, he correctly gives the date as 1937. He arrived at Beaulieu in September 1938, in time for the harvest.

17. There are many reviews of Tchelistcheff's early history, both in his oral histories and in books. These particular facts are taken from John Hutchison, "Man of the Year — André Tchelistcheff," Wines and Vines , March 1990, pp. 24-29.

18. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 68.

19. Interviewed by Bernard Skoda, in HNV , 2:110-11, George Deuer, the winemaker at Inglenook from 1935 to 1965, commented that not all of the Inglenook vineyards had been planted to premium grapes at Repeal, and that until better varieties such as Pinot noir and Cabernet had replaced them, the wine made from lesser varieties was sold in bulk. However, this wine was not sold as Inglenook wine.

20. This sketch of Niebaum's life is based on several sources: "Niebaum of Inglenook," Wine Review , November 1939, pp. 11-13, 18, 22; Tom Parker, Inglenook Vineyards: 100 Years of Fine Winemaking (Rutherford, Calif.: Inglenook Vineyards, 1979); and Heintz, Wine Country , pp. 166-74.

21. "A Pillar of the Industry," California Wine Review , December 1935, p. 20.

22. Parker, Inglenook Vineyards , pp. 73-74.

23. "Niebaum Winery at Rutherford to Be Operated by Carl E. Bundschu," St. Helena Star , August 18, 1933, p. 1.

24. Wine Review , January 1934, p. 9.

25. Parker, Inglenook Vineyards , p. 76.

26. "State Fair Awards," St. Helena Star , September 1934, p. 1.

27. Deuer interview, HNV , 2:110.

28. Heintz, Wine Country , pp. 150-52.

29. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:246.

30. "All Ready for Eastern Trip," St. Helena Star , November 25, 1932, p. 1.

31. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:247-48.

32. California Grape Grower 15, 10 (October 1934): 16.

33. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:252-53.

34. This early history is the work of Heintz, Wine Country , pp. 247-49, 293.

35. "F. Salmina & Co.," California Grape Grower 5, 12 (December 1933): 21.

36. Wilson Wade, "Report by Treasury Department Technical Division," July 21, 1932, Larkmead file, box 58, BATF records. As will be discussed later, high volatile acidity was to be expected in wines stored for twelve years. Treasury records from inspections at other wineries yield similar indications of spoilage. All of Chapin Tubbs's wines were spoiled, and the Fawver vineyard north of Napa held over 300,000 gallons of wine of high volatile acidity, which was distilled by Beringer in 1935.

37. Information is derived from "summary of operations" sheets submitted by government inspectors as part of their annual inspections. Unfortunately, the files are incomplete, but reports exist for 1935, 1937, 1939, and 1940 and can be found in the Larkmead file, box 55, BATF records. I have assumed that wine marked "removed tax paid" was probably bottled wine, since the vast majority of bulk wine was removed in bond to other wineries or wholesalers.

38. "Wine Awards at the State Fair," Wines and Vines 18, 10 (October 1937): 12-13.

39. "Diplome D'Honneur Award confirmed," Wines and Vines 19, 9 (September 1938): 21. The three non-Napa wineries to win the awards were Cresta Blanca and Wente Brothers from the Livermore Valley, and Italian Swiss Colony from Sonoma. "Editorial," St. Helena Star , August 12, 1938, p. 2.

40. Marilouise Kornell, "Presentation for the St. Helena Friends of the Library," October 3, 1980, in HNV , 3:324.

41. "Summary of Operations July 1, 1935 to December 31, 1935" and "Declaration of Domestic Vintage Wine Stocks," November 16, 1939, in Larkmead file, box 55, BATF records.

42. "Association for Prohibition Reform Meets and Elects New Officers," St. Helena Star , April 7, 1933, p. 1; "F. W. Salmina Elected Member of Western Wine Code Committee," ibid., May 18, 1934, p. 1; "Personnel of Vintage Festival Committees Is Made Public," ibid., June 15, 1934, p. 1; "Raise Quality Is the Aim," ibid., July 12, 1935, p. 6; ''Dry Wine Situation," ibid., August 23, 1935, p. 1; "Wine Institute Meeting," ibid., April 24, 1936, p. 5; and "Local Items of Interest," ibid., April 2, 1937, p. 1.

43. Information for this introductory paragraph is gleaned from three sources. Brother Timothy's oral history The Christian Brothers as Winemakers (BL), pp. 10-23; "Mont La Salle and the Fine Wines of the Christian Brothers," Wine Review , December 1939, pp. 13-14; and Leon Adams, The Wines of America (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1973), pp. 209-11.

44. Brother Timothy, Christian Brothers as Winemakers , p. 40.

45. "Mt. La Salle Vineyards," California Grape Grower 15, 10 (October 1934): 16; "Mont La Salle's Production," California Wine Review , November 1934, p. 38.

46. "Mt. LaSalle Vineyard," Wines and Vines 17, 10 (October 1936): 7; "Mt. La Salle Vineyard," ibid. 18, 10 (October 1937): 5.

47. Alfred Fromm, Marketing California Wine and Brandy (BL), pp. 6-10.

48. "Mont La Salle and the Fine Wines of the Christian Brothers," Wine Review , December 1939, p. 14.

49. "[Martini] Purchases Tract of Land," St. Helena Star , March 24, 1933, p. 3.

50. This brief summary of Louis M. Martini's early life comes primarily from Martini and Martini, Winemaking ; see p. 15 on the enemies of wine. There is a brief biography of Martini in Adams, Wines of America , p. 222.

51. The reference to kosher wine is found in Louis P. Martini's oral history, A Family Winery and the California Wine Industry (BL), p. 8; Louis M. Martini is quoted from id. and Louis P. Martini, Winemaking , p. 28.

52. Martini and Martini, Winemaking , p. 31.

53. Ibid., p. 30; "[Martini] Will Crush Grapes," St. Helena Star , August 19, 1932, p. 1.

54. "Work on Winery Begun," St. Helena Star , June 9, 1933, p. 5; L. H. Pedlar and J. H. Heintz, "Report on Application," Treasury Department, September 26, 1933, Martini file, BATF records.

55. Martini and Martini, Winemaking , p. 32.

56. Louis P. Martini, Family Winery , p. 52.

57. Treasury Department, "Summary of Operations," 1934-40; L. M. Martini, letter to Treasury Department, December 13, 1935, Martini file, BATF records.

58. Robert Peffer, "Report of Inspection," August 15, 1936, Martini file, BATF records.

59. "[Martini] Purchases Fine Property," St. Helena Star , March 9, 1934, p. 4. This later became the Flora Springs Winery.

60. "C.C.W. Absorbs Martini," Wine Review , March 1940, p. 42.

61. Louis P. Martini, Family Winery , p. 4.

62. Adams, Wines of America , p. 223.

63. Martini and martini, Winemaking , pp. 46-47.

64. Robert Peffer, "Report of Inspection," August 15, 1936, Treasury Department, Martini file, BATF records.

65. Actually, the idea of a "White Zinfandel" goes back to the nineteenth century. George Husmann mentions that Zinfandel grown on the valley floor tended to be too productive, producing a weak-flavored red wine, but very suitable for production of a white (Husmann, Grape Culture and Wine-Making in California: A Practical Manual for the Grape-Grower and Wine-Maker (San Francisco: Payot, Upham, 1888). The list of varieties in the Martinis' tanks is worth preserving. In alphabetical order, they included: Barbera, Barberone, Beclan, Burger, Cabernet, Charbono, Chasselas (Palomino), Franken Riesling, Folle blanche, Gótedel, Mataro, Mondeuse, Muscat (variety not specified), Pinot noir, Petite Sirah, Riesling, Johannisberg Riesling, Red Pinot (Pinot St. George?), Salvador, Semillion, Sylvaner, Tannat, Traminer, Valdepeñas, White Pinot (perhaps Pinot blanc or Chenin blanc), White Zinfandel, and Zinfandel. "Report of Wine Inventory," August 21, 1941, Martini file, BATF records.

66. W. J. I. McCallan, "Memorandum on Labeling of Wine," January 31, 1944, Treasury Department, Martini file, BATF records.

67. Napa County agricultural commissioner, Annual Report , 1934-40.

1. "Grape Grower Meeting," St. Helena Star , November 25, 1932, p. 8.

2. St. Helena Star , December 2, 1932, p. 1; "Of Organization and Consolidation," California Wine Review , February 1934, p. 7.

3. "Shortage of Cooperage," St. Helena Star , July 27, 1934, p. 1.

4. "Napa Valley Wine Men Form Co-operative At Meeting Yesterday," St. Helena Star , August 3, 1934, p. 1; "New Building Completed," California Wine Review , October 1934, p. 34.

5. "Napa Valley Cooperative Winery May Locate Second Unit Near St. Helena," St. Helena Star , February 15, 1935, p. 1.

6. A. Setrakian as quoted in "Towards the Stabilization of the Grape Industry," Wine Review , August 1940, p. 12.

7. "Grape Growers Organize," St. Helena Star , October 7, 1938, p. 4.

8. "Little Explaining Done," St. Helena Star , September 2, 1938, p. 1.

9. "Cooperative Buys Navone Winery, St. Helena Star , August 25, 1939, p. 1. The Markham Winery currently occupies the former home of the "little co-op."

10. "History of Napa Valley Co-operative Winery," St. Helena Star , April 30, 1937, p. 8.

11. Stralla interview, HNV , 2:325. This interview is a classic description of the bulk wine producer's point of view and is extremely entertaining reading.

12. Ibid., p. 318.

13. Ibid., p. 319.

14. Ibid.

15. Ibid., p. 324.

16. "New Method of Marketing Wine at Krug Winery Is Meeting with Success," St. Helena Star , September 14, 1934, p. 1.

17. Stralla interview, HNV , 2:359.

18. Ibid., p. 332.

19. Ibid., p. 344.

20. "Jack Riorda Is Summoned," St. Helena Star , November 6, 1939, p. 1.

21. "Building Large Winery," St. Helena Star , June 8, 1934, p. 4. Later occupants would claim that Sunny St. Helena was the first winery built in the Napa Valley following Repeal, and technically they were correct, since the L. M. Martini Winery further south was constructed during Prohibition.

22. "Summary of Operations," December 31, 1935, Treasury Department, and February 28, 1937, Sunny St. Helena file, BATF records.

23. "Affidavit and Certificate of Secretary," September 15, 1937, Sunny St. Helena file, BATF records.

24. Robert Mondavi, Creativity in the California Wine Industry (BL), p. 3.

25. Ibid., p. 8.

26. Ibid., p. 9.

27. "Winery Has Good Year," St. Helena Star , August 18, 1939, p. 3.

28. "Minutes of Regular Monthly Meeting of the Board of Directors of Sunny St. Helena Wine Company, A Corporation, Held Wednesday, October 4, 1939," in Sunny St. Helena file, BATF records.

29. Robert Mondavi, "Letter to Treasury Department," October 25, 1939; "Affidavit of Information in Support of Application for Wine Producer's and Blender's Basic Permit," August 20, 1941, both in Sunny St. Helena file, BATF records.

30. "Grape Harvest In Full Swing," St. Helena Star , September 13, 1940, p. 1; "Crushing to Start Next Week," ibid., August 29, 1941, p. 1.

31. Crabb was even better known as a vineyardist, collecting over two hundred varieties of Vitis vinifera and introducing "Crabb's Black Burgundy," later identified as Refrosco, to the region. A 20-acre portion of the vineyard was deeded to the U.S. Department of Agriculture in 1902 for an experiment station, later passing to the University of California and becoming the Oakville Field Station. For information on the Crabb vineyard and Tokalon, see William F. Heintz, Wine Country: A History of Napa Valley: The Early Years, 1838-1920 (Santa Barbara: Capra Press, 1990), pp. 155-56, 175, 271, 318.

32. Lyle Pedlar, "Special Instructions Report," November 16, 1931, Tokalon file, BATF records.

33. "To Kalon Winery to Increase Capacity," California Wine and Spirits Review , February 1934, p. 30.

34. Mary Churchill, "Letter to Bureau of Industrial Alcohol, March 9, 1934; E. C. Mosby, "Tokalon Vineyard Floor Tax Report," April 16, 1935, both in Tokalon Vineyard file, BATF records.

35. Production and bulk removal data derived from "Annual Report of Inspection," for 1935 and 1937, Tokalon Vineyard file, BATF records.

36. "Lombarda Winery Sold," St. Helena Star , March 24, 1933, p. 5.

37. "Suit over Wine Filed," St. Helena Star , February 23, 1934, p. 5.

38. "Will Buy Many Grapes," St. Helena Star , August 31, 1934, p. 8.

39. "Litigation Now Ended," St. Helena Star , August 30, 1935, p. 6.

40. "Suit against Wine Company," St. Helena Star , August 6, 1937, p. 1.

41. Freemark Abbey is now operated by Charles Carpy, who in partnership revived the name and location in 1967.

42. Heintz, Wine Country , pp. 294-95.

43. "Lombarda Winery Sold," St. Helena Star , March 24, 1933, p. 5; "Incorporation Papers," February 20, 1934, Lombarda file, BATF records.

44. Deuer interview, HNV , 2:119.

45. C. Warrington, "Report on Operation and Re-Establishment of B/W 3820," September 23, 1941, Lombarda file, BATF records.

46. "Letter to Alcohol Tax Unit," May 10, 1935, Lombarda file, BATF records.

47. Charles O'Conner, "Letter to Federal Alcohol Administration," November 10, 1936, Lombarda file, BATF records.

48. "Winery Firm Is Sued," Wine Review , June 1937, p. 25.

49. T. C. Johnson, "Report on Application," September 17, 1941, Lombarda file, BATF records.

50. Martini was still bitten by the wine bug. A short notice in the St. Helena Star on May 16, 1941, indicates that Martini did incorporate a new winery, "Monte Dorado Cellar, Inc.," but that is the only mention of it.

51. "Distillery Opens," California Wine Review , May 1934, p. 31.

52. American Wine Review , June 1934, p. 31.

53. California Wine Review , October, 1934, p. 34.

54. Leonard Rhodes, "Letter to Supervisor, Bureau of Industrial Alcohol," June 9, 1932, Tubbs file, BATF records.

55. Chapin Tubbs, "Letter to Supervisor of Permits," September 11, 1933, and November 1, 1933, Tubbs file, BATF records.

56. P. T. Carre, "Napa — Valley of the Vine," California Wine Review , January 1934, p. 9; H. S. Ogden, "The Work of a Winery Chemist," California Wine Review , May 1934, pp. 14-15.

57. "Montelena Wineries," California Wine Review , July 1934, p. 36.

58. Chapin Tubbs, "Letter to District Supervisor, Bureau Internal Revenue," September 13, 1934, Tubbs file, BATF records.

59. Chapin Tubbs, "Letter, District Supervisor, Alcohol Tax Unit," June 15, 1936, Tubbs file, BATF records.

60. J. F. Corridan, "Letter to Collector of Internal Revenue," November 6, 1945, Tubbs file, BATF records.

61. Wines and Vines Yearbook of the Wine Industry , 1941-42, pp. 31-49.

62. Most of these figures are derived from "Grape Harvest in Full Swing," St. Helena Star , September 13, 1940. Estimates are derived from typical production figures. The Central California Winery was Greystone Cellars, north of Beringer, previously owned by Bisceglia Brothers. Greystone was part of a statewide cooperative and acted as a storage and bottling location for wines produced in Mendocino and Sonoma counties. See "Changes Hands," St. Helena Star , April 19, 1940, p. 1.

1. André Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology (BL), p. 62.

2. Ibid., p. 50. Tchelistcheff took advantage of the 1938 prorate to substitute much of the older, spoiled wine for wine from the 1938 vintage.

3. "Wine Juries Select California Blue Ribbon Wines for 1939," Wines and Vines , October 1939, p. 14; Charles B. Rubinstein, "Beaulieu's Proud Heritage," Wines and Spirits , February 1991, p. 16. It is somewhat telling that the Beaulieu Cabernet that won the grand prize for red wine was entered in the "Burgundy" category at the Golden Gate International Exposition.

4. Frank Schoonmaker and Tom Marvel, The Complete Wine Book (New York: Duell, Sloan & Pearce, 1934), p. 37.

5. Titus Cronise, The Natural Wealth of California , as quoted in William F. Heintz, Wine Country: An History of Napa Valley: The Early Years: 1838-1920 (Santa Barbara: Capra Press, 1990), p. 114. Much of this brief summary of viticulture in the Napa Valley up to 1920 is based on Heintz's exhaustive work.

6. Heintz, Wine Country , p. 155.

7. Ibid., p. 159.

8. "Varieties of Grapes Planted in Napa County," Annual Report of the Board of State Viticultural Commissioners , 1887, as reproduced in Heintz, Wine Country , p. 190.

9. Heintz, Wine Country , p. 283.

10. A. J. Winkler, "Grape Varieties for Dry Wines," Wine Review , May 1936, p. 6.

11. H. H. Marquis, "The Valley of the Crushed Grape," California Wine Review , August 1934, p. 10.

12. Ibid.

13. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:37-38; Brother Timothy, The Christian Brothers as Winemakers (BL), p. 10; Deuer interview, HNV , 2:106, 109-10; Emil Schmidt interview, HNV , 3:109-10; see also Amerine interview, HNV , 4: 146-47.

14. "Bearing and Non-Bearing Acreage of Principal Wine Grape Varieties in California," Wine Review , March 1938, pp. 18-19.

15. Harry Caddow, "The New Wine Labeling," Wines and Vines , December 1936, p. 18. One wonders just how much "Cabernet" really was included in varietally labeled wine prior to the 1936 ruling. The impact of labeling in general, and of varietal labeling in particular, is discussed more fully in chapter 4, which examines the marketing of California wine and the great debate over varietal versus generic labeling and the misappropriation of European place-names.

16. "Vineyard, Orchard and Farm," St. Helena Star , June 23, 1933, p. 10.

17. Prices are gleaned from the St. Helena Star and include the following citations: "Local Items of Interest" and "Price of Grapes," September 14, 1934, p. 1; "Increase in Crop Values," January 17, 1936, p. 1; "Wine Institute Sets Minimum Prices for Grapes at San Francisco Meeting,'' August 23, 1935, p. 1; "Good Prices for Grapes," September 17, 1937, p. 1; "Vintage Begins," September 16, 1938, p. 1; "Vintage in Progress," September 15, 1939, p. 1; "Grape Harvest Now in Full Swing," September 13, 1940, p. 1; "Tentative Grape Prices Set," September 5, 1941, p. 1.

18. "Facts on Dry Wine Industry," St. Helena Star , September 17, 1937, p. 1.

19. "Vineyard, Orchard and Farm," St. Helena Star , April 11, 1941, p. 9.

20. Felix Salmina (quoted in source cited in n. 18 above) estimated that dry-land vineyards in Napa produced 2.5 tons per acre. The Napa County agricultural commissioner published annual reports of tons produced, but the actual number of bearing acres of vineyards was not included in them. Estimating an average of 11,000 acres of bearing vines, Napa produced a low of 1.9 tons per acre in the scorching summer of 1935 through 3.5 tons per acre in the prorate year of 1938. From 1934 through 1941, Napa averaged just over 30,000 tons of grapes a year, or 2.75 tons per acre.

21. William C. Ockey, "The Cost of Producing Wine Grapes," Wine Review , March 1935, pp. 22-25; L. W. Fluharty, Standard Grape Costs (Berkeley: University of California Extension Service, 1939).

22. Amerine interview, HNV , 4:147.

23. Roy Raymond, Sr., interview, HNV , 1:256.

24. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 63.

25. "Vineyard, Orchard, and Farm," St. Helena Star , April 9, 1937, p. 9.

26. Amerine interview, HNV , 4:145.

27. Ibid., p. 144. Quotation from A. J. Winkler, Viticultural Research at University of California, Davis, 1921-1971 (BL), p. 16.

28. Winkler, Viticultural Research , p. 16.

29. Ibid., p. 37.

30. Wine Review articles either written or co-authored by Winkler included: "Grape Varieties for Dry Wines, Part I" (May 1936); "Grape Varieties for Dry Wines, Part II" (June 1937); "What Climate Does, Part I" (June 1937); "What Climate Does, Part II" (July 1937); "Factors Determining Wine Quality" (September 1937); and "The Effect of Climatic Regions" (June 1938). This last piece was initially presented at the statewide Dry Wine Conference held at St. Helena on April 30, 1938.

31. Amerine interview, HNV , 4:157. Amerine's first program participation was in 1937, but programs on winemaking and grape-growing featuring university speakers were popular from 1934 on and were often mentioned in the St. Helena Star . These "schools" are discussed later in this chapter in the section on winemaking.

32. Herman Baade, "Vineyard, Orchard, and Farm," St. Helena Star , February 26, 1937, p. 7.

33. Amerine interview, HNV , 4:157.

34. A. J. Winkler, "Grape Varieties for Dry Wines, Part I," Wine Review , May 1936, p. 6.

35. Ibid., p. 7.

36. Ibid.

37. A. J. Winkler, "The Effect of Climatic Regions," Wine Review , June 1938, p. 14.

38. Ibid., p. 16.

39. Ibid., p. 32.

40. A. J. Winkler, "Grape Varieties for Dry Wines, Part II," Wine Review , June 1936, p. 8.

41. Ibid., p. 9.

42. Ibid., p. 8.

43. M. A. Amerine and A. J. Winkler, Composition and Quality of Musts and Wines of California Grapes (Berkeley: University of California, 1944), 563.

44. "Bearing and Non-Bearing Acreage" (cited in n. 14 above), pp. 18-19; "Crop Report," St. Helena Star , January 13, 1933, p. 8.

45. The figures for 1934 are derived from H. M. Marquis, "Valley of the Crushed Grape," p. 10, and the 1936 numbers from "Bearing and Non-Bearing Acreage" (cited in n. 14 above), pp. 18-19.

46. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:38; Deuer interview, HNV , 2:112; Raymond interview, HNV , 1:249.

47. Amerine interview, HNV , 4:152.

48. "Vineyard, Orchard and Farm," St. Helena Star , May 31, 1940, p. 7.

49. W. V. Cruess, "Knowing the Condition of Your Wine," Wines and Vines , May 1937, p. 12 (originally a paper presented at the Napa County Wine Institute in 1937).

50. H. A. Caddow, "Marketing California Dry Wines since Repeal," Wines and Vines , May 1937, p. 14.

51. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:18.

52. Frederic T. Bioletti, The Principles of Wine-Making (Berkeley: University of California Agricultural Experiment Station, 1911), p. 395.

53. Rudolf Jordan, Jr., Quality in Dry Wines . . . . (San Francisco: Pernau Publishing, 1911), p. 6.

54. Bioletti, Principles of Wine-Making , p. 430.

55. Ibid., p. 433; Jordan, Quality in Dry Wines . . . . , p. 143.

56. It is worth noting in passing that these steps are the basis for most commercial wine production today. The major difference is that with stainless steel and refrigeration on a scale that Bioletti and Jordan could only have dreamed of, today's winemakers have dramatically reduced the levels of sulfur dioxide added at crush.

57. References to Larkmead, Beringer, and Tubbs can be found in chapter 2. Beaulieu's spoiled wines are mentioned by Tchelistcheff in both of his oral histories.

58. "Vinegar Industry Is Now Important, Big Plant Operating Near St. Helena," St. Helena Star , August 22, 1932, p. 1.

59. Amerine interview, HNV , 4:156.

60. Léon bonnet quoted in "Dry Wine Situation," St. Helena Star , August 23, 1935, p. 1.

61. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 52.

62. "The Wine Analysis Conference," California Grape Grower , May 1934, p. 19. Cruess's gender choice tells us that the wine industry was a man's world in the 1930s. It remained so for many decades. It was not until 1965 that the Department of Viticulture and Enology at Davis graduated a woman enologist, Mary Ann Graff.

63. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:10.

64. Brother Timothy, Christian Brothers as Winemakers , p. 36.

65. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:248-49.

66. Deuer interview, HNV , 2:123.

67. "Specialists Give Instruction in Use of Pure Culture Yeast," St. Helena Star , September 14, 1934, p. 1; "Vineyard, Orchard and Farm," ibid., September 7, 1934, p. 8.

68. "Receive Yeast Culture," St. Helena Star , October 14, 1935, p. 6.

69. Brother Timothy, Christian Brothers as Winemakers , p. 36.

70. See such articles as W. V. Cruess, "Results of the Use of Pure Yeast and SO2," California Grape Grower , March 1934, pp. 6-7; id. and L. Quaccia, "Results of Use of Cooling and Metabisulfite," Wine and Vines , May 1935, pp. 14-15; and Leon Brendel, "Bisulfites, Metabisulfites, and Liquid Sulphurous Acid in Vinification," Wines and Vines , September 1935, pp. 5, 21.

71. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 66.

72. "The Wine Analysis Conference," California Grape Grower , May 1934, p. 19.

73. "Vineyard, Orchard, and Farm," St. Helena Star , October 5, 1934, p. 8.

74. W. V. Cruess, "Knowing the Condition of Your Wine," Wines and Vines , May 1937, p. 12.

75. Louis P. Martini, A Family Winery and the California Wine Industry (BL), p. 52; Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:18.

76. Martini, Family Winery , p. 52.

77. "Cooling Coils Installed," St. Helena Star , January 10, 1936, p. 1.

78. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:17; Deuer interview, HNV , 2:121.

79. Deuer interview, HNV , 2:122.

80. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:272; Deuer interview, HNV , 2:121.

81. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:270.

82. Deuer interview, HNV , 2:129-130.

83. For production statistics, see "The Production of California Wines," Wine Review , March 1939, pp. 10-11; "Statistics — Consumption," ibid., March 1940, p. 20; and "Statistical Section — Production," ibid., March 1941, p. 12.

84. This is according to Peter Mondavi who studied with Cruess in 1937. See Peter Mondavi, Advances in Technology and Production at Charles Krug Winery, 1946-1988 (BL), pp. 10-11.

85. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:18.

86. For years, because of lack of tanks and refrigeration, the Louis M. Martini winery fermented juice direct from the press, rather than settling the juice prior to fermentation. Louis P. Martini, interviewed by the author, March 3, 1991.

87. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:270-71.

88. "Books on Winemaking," St. Helena Star , March 9, 1934, p. 4.

89. "Vineyard, Orchard and Farm," St. Helena Star , September 28, 1934, p. 8.

90. "Wine Courses," California Spirits and Wine Review , February 1934, p. 35. This magazine went through several name changes before finally settling on The Wine Review .

91. "The Wine Analysis Conference," California Grape Grower , May 1934, p. 19.

92. "Vineyard, Orchard and Farm," St. Helena Star , August 24, 1934, p. 9.

93. "Vineyard, Orchard and Farm," St. Helena Star , August 3, 1934, p. 8.

94. "An Important Meeting Held," St. Helena Star , April 5, 1935, p. 1.

95. "Wine Men Gather," St. Helena Star , April 10, 1936, p. 1.

96. "Wine Men to Be Here," St. Helena Star , April 9, 1937 p. 1; "Many Attend Wine Institute," ibid., April 16, 1937, p. 1; "Wine Men Here Tomorrow," ibid., April 29, 1938, p. 1.

97. H. F. Stoll, "Second Wine Conference at Berkeley," Wines and Vines , January 1935, p. 21.

98. "Many Attend Wine Institute," St. Helena Star , April 16, 1937, p. 1.

99. W. V. Cruess, "Non-Bacterial Spoiling of Wine," Wines and Vines , January 1938, p. 20.

100. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 83.

101. E. M. Mrak, "Metals for Wine Contacts," Wine Review , January 1938, p. 11.

102. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 83.

103. George Marsh, "Chillproofing of Wines, Wines and Vines , May 1938, p. 5.

104. Ibid., pp. 5, 24.

106. Cruess, "Some Observations on Tannin," Wines and Vines , January 1935, pp. 5-7. The university experiments showed that additions of 18 pounds per 1,000 gallons were necessary before any antimicrobial effect became evident. In Cruess's words, this was a "massive dose."

107. L. G. Saywell, "The Clarification of Wine," California Wine Review , May 1934, pp. 16-17; id., "The Bentonite Process for Clarifying Wine," California Wine Review , January 1935, pp. 14-15; id., "Large Scale Clarification of Wines," Wines and Vines , April 1935, pp. 10-11.

108. Saywell, "Large Scale Clarification of Wine," p. 10.

109. Saywell, "Bentonite Process for Clarifying Wine," p. 14.

110. Louis P. Martini, interviewed by the author, March 4, 1991; Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 129. Martini studied at Berkeley with Saywell and recalls first using bentonite following World War II to stabilize some returned bottled wine. Tchelistcheff claims to have "introduced this method of protein stabilization," but in light of Saywell's published articles in the 1930s, "reintroduced" might be more accurate.

111. See Raymond interview, HNV , 1:243.

112. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:19.

113. Martini, Family Winery , p. 58.

114. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:19-20. Most wineries used tin or wooden plates on which to spread label glue, but Beaulieu, in keeping with its status, used marble.

115. M. A. Joslyn and W. V. Cruess, "Bottling of Wine — A Few Observations," Wines and Vines , November 1935, p. 6.

1. "All Ready for Eastern Trip," St. Helena Star , November 25, 1932, p. 1.

2. Napa wines had consistently taken more than their share of medals at most judgings at World's Fairs, which seem to have been held often during the 1890s. See William F. Heintz, Wine Country: A History of Napa Valley: The Early Years, 1838-1920 (Santa Barbara: Capra Press, 1990), pp. 259-61, for results of judgings during the 1890s, pp. 306-8 for judgings in the 1900s, and pp. 320-21 for results from the Panama-Pacific Exposition of 1915.

3. Robert Rossi, "Post-Repeal Wine Consumption," Wines and Vines , January 1935, p. 3.

4. A. R. Morrow, "Improving Quality of California Dry Wines," Wines and Vines , May 1938, p. 6.

5. "High Gear" (editorial), St. Helena Star , September 8, 1939, p. 2.

6. Numbers of festival attendees are derived from the following sources: "St. Helena Vintage Festival Great Success," St. Helena Star , September 7, 1934, p. 1; "40,000 Attend Festival," California Wine Review , September 1935, p. 36.

7. For more information on the early festivals, see Heintz, Wine Country , p. 303.

8. "May Revive Vintage Festival," St. Helena Star , November 3, 1933, p. 1.

9. "Vintage Festival Plans Progressing and Committee Chairman Named," St. Helena Star , June 1, 1934, p. 1.

10. A. G. Haskell, "The St. Helena Vintage Festival," California Grape Grower , August 1934, p. 16.

11. "Personnel of Vintage Festival Committees Is Made Public," St. Helena Star , June 15, 1934, p. 1; "Cast for Vintage Play Being Selected," ibid., July 27, 1934, p. 1.

12. Haskell, "St. Helena Vintage Festival."

13. "Festival Plans Progressing," St. Helena Star , July 20, 1934, p. 1.

14. "Cast for Vintage Play Selected," St. Helena Star , July 27, 1934, p. 1.

15. Pictures of several of the displays, including the Beaulieu tower, can be found in California Grape Grower , September 1934, p. 2. The description of the model of the Golden Gate Bridge, which was then still under construction, is found in "St. Helena Vintage Festival Great Success," St. Helena Star , September 7, 1934, p. 1.

16. H. F. Stoll, "The St. Helena Vintage Festival," Wines and Vines , September 1935, p. 8.

17. California Wine Review , October 1934, p. 34.

18. "Chamber of Commerce Makes Plan for This Year's Vintage Festival," St. Helena Star , June 14, 1935, p. 1; "Plans for the Festival," ibid., August 16, 1934, p. 1.

19. "40,000 Attend Festival," California Wine Review , September 1935, p. 36.

20. "Vintage Festival Next Year," St. Helena Star , September 13, 1935, p. 4.

21. Editorial, St. Helena Star , September 20, 1935, p. 2.

22. "No Vintage Festival, Chamber of Commerce Directors Decide," St. Helena Star , March 6, 1936, p. 1.

23. "Wineries to Sponsor Festival?" (editorial), St. Helena Star , March 10, 1936, p. 2.

24. "No St. Helena Vintage Festival" (editorial), Wines and Vines , April 1936, p. 18.

25. "Vintage Fete is Discussed," St. Helena Star , October 9, 1936, p. 1.

26. "In Our Own Yard" (editorial), St. Helena Star , March 12, 1937, p. 2.

27. Discussion of Gordon's proposal can be found in the following St. Helena Star issues: "We Should Have Some Also" (editorial), March 5, 1937, p. 2; "Common Sense" (editorial), March 19, 1937, p. 2; "Ways and Means of Financing Vintage Festival Are Talked Over," March 26, 1937, p. 1.

28. "No Vintage Festival," St. Helena Star , May 14, 1937, p. 1.

29. Editorial, St. Helena Star , May 6, 1938, p. 2.

30. "Businessmen Tour Wineries," California Wine Review , June 1934, p. 30; "Will Advertise Napa County," St. Helena Star , October 6, 1933, p. 4; "Photograph Wineries," ibid., July 9, 1937, p. 7.

31. "Bundschu Creates Winner," California Wine Review , June 1934, p. 30; "Float in Bridge Event," ibid., November 1936, p. 28 (photograph in December 1936 issue, p. 24). The float for the Bay Bridge was designed by Salmina of Larkmead, Bundschu of Inglenook, Abruzzini of Beringer, Riorda of Sunny St. Helena, and Bonnet of Beaulieu.

32. "Wine Directors Meet," St. Helena Star , January 17, 1936, p. 1; "Wine in Air Mail," California Wine Review , June 1938, p. 33.

33. A. R. Morrow, "Judging the California Wines at the 1936 State Fair," Wines and Vines , October 1936, p. 8.

34. Lists of California State Fair wine judging results can be found in the following: "Wine Awards at the State Fair," Wines and Vines , October 1935, p. 5; "Judging the California Wines at the 1936 State Fair," ibid., October 1936, pp. 8-9; W. V. Cruess, "Wines at the State Fair," ibid., October 1937, pp. 12-13; "Wine Awards at the 1938 California State Fair,'' ibid., October 1938, p. 10; "State Fair Awards," Wine Review , September 1939, p. 12.

35. Cruess, "Wines at the State Fair," p. 12.

36. "Los Angeles Wine and Food Society," Wines and Vines , October 1936, p. 6. See also "Rutherford Items," St. Helena Star , September 18, 1936, p. 3.

37. "Wine Tasting Successful," California Wine Review , November 1936, p. 26. See also "A Novel Wine Tasting Event," Wines and Vines , November 1936, p. 15.

38. "Napa Wine Growers Stage San Francisco Exhibit," California Wine Review , November 1937, p. 26. See also "Napa Valley Wine Display," St. Helena Star , October 29, 1937, p. 1.

39. Ernest A. Wente, Winemaking in the Livermore Valley (BL), p. 69.

40. André Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology (BL), p. 40.

41. "Leon Bonnet," Wines and Vines , October 1941, p. 26.

42. "Beaulieu Vineyard Wines," California Grape Grower , February 1934, p. 21.

43. California Wine Review , December 1935, p. 34.

44. "Leon Munier Goes with Beaulieu," Wines and Vines , December 1936, p. 13. See also "Munier Joins Beaulieu," Wine Review , December 1936, p. 24. Information on Stanton can be found in Wine Review , April 1936, p. 21, and St. Helena Star , February 21, 1936, p. 1, which reported Stanton's talk before the 20-30 club of St. Helena.

45. "Beaulieu Vineyard Wines," Wines and Vines , March 1937, p. 14.

46. Ibid.

47. "L. M. Fabbrini," Wines and Vines , April 1938, p. 18. See also "Charles Fay Dies — Fabbrini Appointed," Wine Review , January 1938, p. 26, and "Beaulieu's New Manager," Wines and Vines , February 1938, p. 13.

48. "Beaulieu Wines in Chicago," Wines and Vines , April 1938, p. 22.

49. Tchelistcheff interview, HNV , 2:9.

50. According to George Deuer, who eventually succeeded John Gross as winemaker, Gross had originally received training at Gundlach-Bundschu in Sonoma. He had also worked for Sam Sebastiani prior to Prohibition. See Deuer interview, HNV , 2:9-10; "Inglenook Bottling," California Wine Review , April 1934, p. 29; and "Niebaum of Inglenook," Wine Review , November 1939, p. 13.

51. A brief description of Carl Bundschu can be found in chapter 1.

52. For information on varietal dating, see "Niebaum of Inglenook," Wine Review , November 1939, p. 13. "We called the wine by the name of the grape," George Deuer claimed (interview in HNV , 2:12). Certainly, the advertisements for Inglenook wines listed varietal as well as generic names. Vintage dating was somewhat unusual at this time, requiring 100 percent of the stated vintage (current regulations allow 95 percent) and an inspection of records by the California Department of Health.

53. It is unclear whether there was a falling out between John Daniel and Carl Bundschu. In his interview in HNV , Deuer indicates that Bundschu's departure was abrupt: "He was gone." Daniel was young, energetic, and identified with Inglenook. It may be that Inglenook was simply too small for two active individuals. Following Inglenook, Bundschu briefly worked as a San Francisco representative to F. Schoonmaker and Co., but apparently left the company when Schoonmaker advocated that the California industry stop using generic names such as "Burgundy" and "Sauterne."

54. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:7-8.

55. A cursory examination of the results of the California State Fair wine competition bears this out. From 1935 through 1939, in the dry red wine categories (Claret, Burgundy, Cabernet, and Zinfandel), Beaulieu took nine awards, Larkmead eight, Inglenook seven, and Beringer one, a bronze.

56. Both Roy Raymond's and Fred Abruzzini's interviews for the Napa Valley Wine Library Association imply that Abruzzini was definitely in charge at Beringer. Charles Beringer lived in San Francisco, where he managed a laundry supply company, the John P. Lynch Co., from the office of which Beringer sales were made. This was confirmed to me in a phone conversation on December 28, 1992, by Roy Raymond, who worked for a year in the Lynch Co.'s office.

57. Abruzzini interview, HNV , 3:87.

58. Raymond interview, HNV , 1:252. Raymond's estimate correlates well with production figures released to Wines and Vines , in the October 1937 issue of which, Beringer announced that it planned to produce 70,000 gallons of dry wine and 150,000 gallons of sweet wine (p. 5).

59. In fairness to Beringer, it should be noted that almost all of the Napa producers sold fortified wine, either purchased from Central Valley producers or made at the winery through the addition of high-proof alcohol. The major difference between Beringer and other Napa Valley wineries was the degree to which fortified sweet wine dominated Beringer's total production mix.

60. Abruzzini interview, HNV , 3:87.

61. "Beringer Bros. Wines," Wines and Vines , March 1937, p. 16.

62. Abruzzini interview, HNV , 3:52. Abruzzini's map was later adopted by the St. Helena Chamber of Commerce and turned into a generic advertising piece for Napa wineries.

63. The estimate of percentage of sales comes from Abruzzini interview, HNV , 3:87; the estimate of total bottled wine sales comes from Raymond interview, HNV , 1:253. Beringer was clearly the first Napa winery to encourage informal visits, but it is not known whether visitors were allowed to taste the wines.

64. "Film Stars Get Beringer Wines," St. Helena Star , July 26, 1940, p. 6; "St. Helena Wines Displayed at Premiere," ibid., November 11, 1940, p. 4.

65. "Beringer's New Sales Builder," Wines and Vines , December 1937, p. 9. For a photograph of the display see Wine Review , December 1937, p. 33.

66. Many California producers considered Riesling to be a wine type, rather than a grape variety. See the editorial "F.A.A. Wine Regulation Hearing," Wines and Vines , December 1935, p. 1.

67. Harry Caddow, "A Wine Temple for the 1939 Exposition," Wines and Vines , October, 1937, p. 1. See also C. E. Bundschu, "California Wines on Parade," ibid., July 1937, p. 12.

68. "California Wine Display at the 1939 Golden Gate International Exposition," Wines and Vines , February 1938, p. 16.

69. The figure of 38 wineries is from Harry Caddow, "California Wines at the 1939 Exposition," Wines and Vines , December 1938, p. 1. The estimate of the number of bonded wineries in California comes from J. V. Bare, "Advertising Program Nears Success," ibid., July 1938, p. 21.

70. "Ready for Fair Opening," St. Helena Star , February 17, 1939, p. 1. The big four also joined together later in June, on the occasion of the Wine Temple dedication, to sponsor a homing pigeon race from Treasure Island to St. Helena. Onlookers were invited to pick which birds would win the race, with the best four handicappers receiving a case of wine from each producer. See "St. Helena Homing Pigeons to Feature Wine Temple Dedication at Fair," St. Helena Star , June 2, 1939, p. 1.

71. For a complete list of winery participants, see "The California Wine Temple: A Dramatic Tribute to the Industry," Wine Review , March 1939, pp. 40-41.

72. Louis Gomberg, Analytical Perspectives on the California Wine Industry, 1935-1990 (BL), p. 42. Most states did not allow bulk sale of wines directly to consumers but required that wine be bottled in one-gallon or smaller containers.

73. J. V. Bare, "Advertising Program Nears Success," Wines and Vines , July 1938, p. 21.

74. H. A. Caddow, "Advertising California Wines," Wines and Vines , November 1938, p. 1.

75. "Wine Advertising," St. Helena Star , September 1, 1939, p. 2.

76. "California Wine Advertising Campaign Is Launched," Wines and Vines , May 1939, p. 5.

77. "Vintners Hear Success of Wine Advertising Campaign," St. Helena Star , May 17, 1940, p. 1.

78. Gomberg, "Analytical Perspectives," p. 23.

79. Harry Caddow, "Major Wine Industry Problems in 1937," Wines and Vines , January 1937, p. 10.

80. Ibid.

81. H. A. Caddow, "Wine Industry's Advertising Program," Wines and Vines , January 1939, p. 14.

82. Gomberg, "Analytical Perspective," p. 23.

83. No reliable figures are extant; 5 percent is only an estimate. Two tables in Amerine and Joslyn's Table Wines: The Technology of Their Production in California (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1951), compiled by S. W. Shear, an agricultural economist for the Giannini Foundation of Agricultural Economics, list "Apparent Consumption of Still Wine in the United States" (table 26, p. 334) and "United States Wine Imports for Consumption by Kinds" (table 27, p. 335). A comparison of estimated consumption by year of commercial table wine under  14 percent alcohol with imports for the same type and year indicates that imports accounted for 4 percent of still wine consumption from 1934 to 1939.

84. E. M. Sheehan, "The Wine Situation in California," Wines and Vines , January 1938, p. 1.

85. Marion DeVries, "Why Import Duties Must Not Be Reduced," Wines and Vines , April 1935, p. 4. Other examples of this sort of thinking can be seen "Drink American Wines," California Grape Grower , December 1933, p. 1; "American Wines Belittled," Wines and Vines , April 1936, p. 1; and "Choice California Wines," ibid., May 1935, p. 1.

86. The United States has still not signed the Madrid treaty, and all of the  above items may legally be used in this country today (1995). However, U.S. wines so labeled cannot be exported to countries that are treaty signatories, most notably the members of the European Economic Community. The Quady Winery, which is well known for its dessert wines, recently introduced a version of its "Port" called "Starboard" for export to Europe.

87. "Names of California Wine Types," California Grape Grower , December 1933, p. 1.

88. Marion DeVries, "Congress Reduces Wine Taxes," Wines and Vines , July 1936, p. 5.

89. "Wine Names Approved," Wines and Vines , May 1936, p. 28. New York producers would similarly, of course, use the adjective "New York" to describe a "Burgundy" produced there. This was not a major change for California producers, most of which had historically included "California" when using a European place-name for a wine, although the adjective was not always emphasized or placed in direct communication with the European appellation.

90. See H. H. Marquis, "New Rules — New Labels," Wine Review , February 1936, p. 13, for the phrase "veritable revolution" and Harry Caddow's comment about "definite, nationally enforceable nomenclature." The estimate of 60,000 labels needing approval is from "Label Regulations Effective Soon," ibid., Wines and Vines , February 1936, p. 10, which provides an excellent review of previous labeling laws, and his article "The New Wine Labeling," ibid., December 1936, p. 18, which covers the Wine Institute's response to the new laws.

91. F. W. Salmina, letter to W. F. Alexander, April 7, 1936, and R. W. Janney, senior label examiner, letter to F. W. Salmina and Co., April 28, 1936, in Larkmead file, box 55, BATF records.

92. Harry Caddow, "The New Wine Labeling," Wines and Vines , December 1936, p. 18.

93. Current regulations (1995) require that 75 percent of varietally labeled wines come from the stated variety; require only 95 percent of the wine to come from the stated vintage (thus allowing for evaporative loss during storage); and  require that 75 percent of the grapes comes from a named political subunit of a state.

94. Editorial, St. Helena Star , January 22, 1937, p. 2.

95. "Distributes Fine Wines," Wine Review , September 1937, p. 24. In selecting wine in cask to be bottled for its own account, Wildman and Co. was following in the tradition of the English wine trade. Wildman later joined Bellows and Co., a national importing firm.

96. "Park & Tilford Will Handle Beaulieu Wines," Wines and Vines , August, 1938, p. 6. The first wines actually shipped were, as we have seen, a disaster.

97. W. N. McDonald, "California Wine . . . on Eastern Seaboard Merchandising Front," Wine Review , June 1940, p. 10.

98. Schoonmaker was actually a friend of good wine with an excellent palate and forthright opinions. His book included an honest assessment of California wine at Repeal and was fairly gentle in its comments.

99. McDonald, "California Wine . . . on Eastern Seaboard Merchandising Front," p. 11.

100. "Importer Now Sells California Wines," Wines and Vines , December 1939, p. 8. At the time, Inglenook and Larkmead were the only quality Napa producers available to Schoonmaker. Beaulieu was represented by Park & Tilford, and Christian Brothers by Alfred Fromm; L. M. Martini had not released his Napa wines yet, and Beringer was of slightly lesser quality.

101. "Schoonmaker to Handle Wente and Korbel Wines," Wine Review , November 1940, p. 24. See also "C. C. W. Absorbs Martini," Wine Review , March 1940, pp. 42, 43, 48.

102. Frank Schoonmaker & Co. spring bulletin, 1940, as quoted in McDonald, "California Wine . . . on Eastern Seaboard Merchandising Front," p. 10.

103. McDonald, "California Wine . . . on Eastern Seaboard Merchandising Front," p. 10.

104. "Schoonmaker to Handle Wente and Korbel Wines," Wine Review , November 1940, p. 24.

105. Hal Marquis, "War and Wine," Wine Review , December 1940, pp. 6-7.

106. "Chamber of Commerce Plans to Advertise Valley Wines," St. Helena Star , September 13, 1940, p. 1.

107. "Defense Program for U.S. Wines: An Editorial," Wine Review , July 1941, p. 7.

108. Ibid.

109. Leon Munier, "Wine Men Are Warned," Wine Review , January 1942, p. 34.

110. Tom Marvel, "California Wines under California Names," Wine Review , February 1942, p. 10.

111. H. F. Stoll, "Advertising California Wines," California Grape Grower ,  August 1934, p. 1.

112. Harry Caddow, "The Consumer's Wine Quality Problem," Wines and  Vines , January 1938, p. 16.

113. Ibid.

114. Marvel, "California Wines under California Names," p. 11.

115. "Carl Bundschu Joins Frank Schoonmaker and Co.," Wines and Vines ,  December 1939, p. 32; "George De Latour Passes Away," St. Helena Star , March 1, 1940, p. 1; Felix Salmina's death is mentioned in a partnership statement dated April 13, 1943, Larkmead file, box 55, BATF records.

1. See "Bulk Shipments to Increase," Wines and Vines , November 1945, p. 15.

2. See Jack Conrad's article "Building Prestige in the New Wine Market with the Winery Name," Wines and Vines , February 1942, pp. 12-13. Conrad was manager of Conrad's Inc., a franchise bottler in St. Louis, and he differentiated his "Hourglass" brand by adding the producer's name, in this case, Italian Swiss Colony, to the label.

3. H. E. Jacob and A. J. Winkler, "Limit Grape Plantings to Good Wine Grape Varieties," Wines and Vines , January 1945, pp. 14-15.

4. J. A. Hunter, "Summary of 1942 Grape Season," Wines and Vines , August 1943, p. 18.

5. E. L. Markell, "Grapes in the Land of Sunshine," Wines and Vines , August 1941, p. 11.

6. "Grape Council Meets: Growers and Vintners Discuss Joint Grape Problems," Wines and Vines , March 1941, p. 24.

7. Average statewide grape prices in 1940 were about $14 — 15 a ton, but by 1942 they had increased to $32 for standard black varieties. See "Grape Council Meets," Wines and Vines , March 1941, p. 23, and Hunter, "Summary of 1942 Grape Season," p. 18.

8. The government requisitioned all nongirdled Thompsons, Muscats, and Sultanas on August 24, 1942. See Hunter, "Summary of 1942 Grape Season," pp. 18-19.

9. Figures are based on Wine Institute figures in "Statistical Review of 1947," Wines and Vines , April 1948, pp. 21-36.

10. "Magazine Reviews Situation in Wine Field," Wines and Vines , February 1944, p. 22.

11. "Statistical Review of 1947," p. 29.

12. See the following articles: "Need for Price Adjustment," Wines and Vines , February 1942, p. 7; "Expected Grape Price Increase Complicates Price Freeze Order," ibid., May 1942, p. 27; and "Price Ceiling for Wine, " ibid., September  1942, pp. 6-7.

13. These were for standard quality Central Valley grapes. Napa and other North Coast grapes rose even more. Grape prices are gleaned from several sources. See J. A. Hunter, "1943 Grape Season Summary," Wines and Vines , September 1944, pp. 22-23, and Irving Marcus, "Gold Strike in California!" ibid.,  October 1944, pp. 15, 33.

14. See "Expected Grape Price Increase Complicates Price Freezing Order," Wines and Vines , May 1942, and "New Wine Price Formula," ibid., October 1942, p. 7.

15. Hunter, "Summary of 1942 Grape Season."

16. "New Wine Ceiling Regulation," Wines and Vines , October 1943, pp. 10-11.

17. "Opportunity Unlimited," Wines and Vines , August 1942, p. 8.

18. Richard N. Haight, "Price Ceiling Headaches," Wines and Vines , February 1943, p. 9.

19. "Commenting on the News," Wines and Vines , August 1944, p. 11. See also "Wine Price Ceiling Yet to Come," Wines and Vines , September 1943, p. 11.

20. E. B. Wienand, "The Big Four and the Facts," Wines and Vines , February 1944, pp. 10-14.

21. For more information on the purchase of Italian Swiss Colony, see "Interview With MacNamara," Wines and Vines , June 1944, pp. 21, 32-33.

22. Both Tchelistcheff and Amerine indicate that Schenley pursued an active policy of diverting lower-quality wine into the higher-priced Cresta Blanca brand. Amerine indicates that Schenley "was reputed to have made their purchase price back in the first year." See M. A. Amerine, The University of California and the State's Wine Industry (BL), p. 21. See also André Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology (BL), pp. 112-15.

23. See "Schenley Buys Cresta Blanca," Wine Review , January 1941, p. 20; "Schenley Extends Wine Holdings," Wines and Vines , October 1942, p. 30; Harvey Martin, "Schenley Buys Roma and CWI," ibid., November 20, 1942, p. 9; and "Greystone Winery Changes Hands," St. Helena Star , November 20, 1942, p. 1.

24. "Committee Cries Wolf," Wines and Vines , February 1944, p. 9.

25. "Commenting on the News," Wines and Vines , November 1942, p. 5.

26. "Fight for Life," Wines and Vines , December 1942, p. 7.

27. Richard N. Haight, "Price Ceiling Headaches," Wines and Vines , February 1943, p. 9.

28. Wines and Vines noted that "the number of wineries willing to do contract grape purchasing and crushing for bottlers and distributors is becoming less due to the lowness of the price ceiling placed by OPA on such 'processes.'" See "Distribution Undergoes Change," Wines and Vines , May 1944, p. 15.

29. Harvey W. Martin, "The Tank Car Emergency," Wines and Vines , January 1943, p. 8. See also "Tank Cars" in the "Commenting on the News" section of Wines and Vines , January 1943, p. 7. Ironically, the "essential wartime liquids" were in part industrial alcohol produced by the large distillers.

30. Martin, "Tank Car Emergency," p. 9.

31. W. J. Massoni, "Progress in Reverse," Wines and Vines , February 1943, p. 27.

32. "Renault Buys Wineries," Wines and Vines , February 1943, p. 19.

33. "Gibson Buys Acampo," Wines and Vines , April 1943, p. 13.

34. See "Winery Ownership Changes," Wines and Vines , April 1943, pp. 16-17. Wines and Vines estimated total California storage capacity at slightly over  200 million gallons for (Wienand, "The Big Four and the Facts," pp. 10-14).

35. "Garden Vineyard Purchased," Wines and Vines , June 1943, p. 28.

36. See "Changes in Winery Ownership," Wines and Vines , July 1944, pp. 20-22.

37. "Boom in Vineyards" in "Commenting on the News," Wines and Vines , November 1943, p. 9.

38. Irving Marcus, "Gold Strike in California!" Wines and Vines , October 1944, p. 15.

39. For plantings in 1943-44 and 1944-45, see A. J. Winkler, "Grape Plantings During 1945," Wines and Vines , December 1945, pp. 26-27.

40. Irving Marcus, "The Industry Looks Ahead," Wines and Vines , September 1943, p. 15.

41. Winkler, "Grape Plantings during 1945," p. 27.

42. "Bulk Shipments to Increase," Wines and Vines , November 1945, p. 15.

43. H. A. Caddow, "The Industry Shows Its Confidence," Wines and Vines , October 1945, p. 25; H. C. Bernsten, "The Complex American Wine Market," ibid., November 1946, pp. 25-26.

44. Elmer Salmina, Wines and Vines , June 1944, p. 16.

45. "Bundschu Attacks Grape Prices," Wines and Vines , November 1944, p. 37.

46. See Elmer Salmina, "1944 Outlook," Wine Review , January 1944, p. 11, and Arthur Tempe, "Lowering Quality in Winery Bottling Endangers Your Future," Wines and Vines , March 1945, p. 11.

47. See "Prices" in "Commenting on the News," Wines and Vines , August 1945, p. 11, and Irving Marcus, "Wine Price Bugaboo," ibid., November 1945, p. 11.

48. "Processor Prices Strong," Wines and Vines , February 1946, p. 13.

49. See "Processor Prices Strong," Wines and Vines , February 1946, p. 13, and "Bulk Dessert Wine Prices Zoom," ibid., April 1946, p. 21.

50. "The Editor Comments on the News," Wines and Vines , April 1946, p. 21.

51. "Bulk Dessert Wine," Wines and Vines , September 1946, p. 19.

52. "Half-Year Consumption Mark," Wines and Vines , September 1946, p. 9.

53. Herman Wente, "Wine Goes Full Speed Ahead," Wines and Vines , February 1946, p. 29.

54. "Bulk Dessert Wine," Wines and Vines , September 1946, p. 19.

55. See Irving Marcus, "Record Crush Still Looms as Good Possibility," Wines and Vines , July 1946, p. 11, and "Construction At Record Level," ibid., January 1947, pp. 16-17.

56. Italian Swiss Colony and Roma had both raised their prices in early summer of 1946; see "Case Goods Prices Rising," Wines and Vines , June, 1946, p. 9. For information on the distiller's attempt to purchase surplus grapes, see "High Grape Prices Loom," Wines and Vines, May 1946,p.9, and John Cella, The Cella Family in the California Wine Industry (BL),p.36. For grape prices during the 1946 crush, see "Grape Prices Firm as Crush Hits Peak," Wines and Vines ,October 1946, p.13.

57. "Market Forecasts — Business Essential" and "Reasons Pro and Con on Wine Prices," Wines and Vines , December 1946,p.13.

58. "Holding the Price Line," Wines and Vines , February 1947,p.13.

59. John Margolis, "Confidence in the Wine Industry," Wines and Vines ,February 1947, p.16.

60. "Wine Price Headche Continues," Wines and Vines , March 1947, p. 13.

61. "Price-Posting, Fair Trade in California," Wines and Vines , March 1947, p.48. Price-posting and fair trade laws had been in effect for beer since the late 1930s, and the extension to wine and spirits was intended to estabilize the industry. See also John Anderson, "The Fair Trade Principle," Wines and Vines ,October 1946, p. 22.

62. For dessert wine prices, see "Bulk Market Turns Strong," Wines and Vines , July 1947,p.9. Table wine prices are referred to in Cella's oral history, Cellas Family ,p. 36.

63. See Louis A. Petri, The Petri Family in the Wine Industry (BL), p. 22.

64. For prices, see "The Shape of the 1947 Crush," Wines and Vines , December 1947, p. 16. For the USDA raisin purchase, see "Raisin Group Proved Right," ibid., November 1947, p. 9.

65. Irving Marcus, "Grape Prices Uncertain as Crush Begins," Wines and Vines , September 1947, p. 9; "New Cooperative Interest Evident," ibid., October 1947, p. II.

66. "The Shape of the 1947 Crush," Wines and Vines , December 1947.

1. See advretisement in Wine and Vine , May 1947, p. 35.

2. Approximately 600 acres were planted in 1945 and an additional 300 in 1946. See "More Dry Wine Grapes in Napa County," Wine Review , June 1945, p. 32, and "Wines and Vines Previews 1946 Plantings," Wines and Vines , August 1946, p. 19. University of California recommendation were made in M. A. Amerine and A. J. Winkler, Composition and Quality of Musts and Wines of California Grapes (Berkeley: University of California, 1944), and a year earlier in Agricultural Experiment Station Circular 356, Grape Varieties for Wine Production .

3. "C. C. W. Absorbs Martini, Wine Review , March 1940,p.42,43,48.

4. "New Sales Organization Established by C. C. W. Members, Wines and Vines , May 1941, p.II.

5. "GoLan Wines, inc., Begins Operations at St. Helena," Wines and Vines , September 1941, pp. 12-14. See also "The GoLan Bottling Plant at St. Helena," ibid., October 1941, p. 19.

6. See Harvey Martin, "Schenley Buys Roma and CWI," Wines and Vines , November 1942,p.9; "Greystone Winery Changes Hands," St. Helena Star , November 20, 1942, p. 1. See also an advertisement for Cresta Blanca wines in Wines and Vines , July 1946, p. 4, which describes the other Cresta Blanca locations.A brief discussion of Schenley's expansion of Cresta Blanca is found in chapter 5. Schenley later sold Greystone to Christian Brothers in 1950.

7. "Exit Domestic" (editorial), Wines and Vines , January 1941, p. 4

8. Figures are from Amerine and Joslyn, Table Wines: The Technology of Their Production in California (1951), tables 26 and 27, pp. 334-35.

9. This total is an estimate, inasmuch as no actual figures for bottled wine are available. In 1940, after its initial bottling disaster with Park & Tilford, Beaulieu was selling perhaps 30,000 cases of branded wine; Inglenook was certainly selling under 20,000 cases; Beringer, with its active at-winery sales program, had perhaps expanded to 30,000 cases, and Larkmead was probably producing around 10,000 cases of wine under its own label Estimates for Christian Brothers are not available, and Louis Martini indicates that the Martini Winery, which had only just released its first wines in 1940, did not reach 30,000 cases until after World War II.

10. Deuer interview, HNV , 2:15.

11. Andreé Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology (BL), pp. 73, 119.

12. "Remodeling and Expansion at Inglenook Vineyards," Wine Review , January 1941, p. 31. See also "Remodeling at Inglenook," St. Helena Star , January 3, 1941, p. 1.

13. "Addition to Beaulieu Winery," St. Helena Star , March 21, 1941, p. 1; Beaulieu Undertakes Major Improvement Program at Winery," Wine Review , April 1941, p. 23; and "Ageing Facilities Will Be Increased by Beaulieu Vineyard," ibid., June 1941, p. 32.

14. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 73.

15. John Daniel, Jr., "Notes on the History of Napa County Viticulture and Winemaking," in HNV , 1:235-36.

16. See "New Schoonmaker Distributor," Wines and Vines , September 1941, p.28, and "Growers Retain Schoonmaker," ibid., February 1946, p. 48. "21 Brands," the exclusive U.S. distributor of Ballantine Scotch, was affiliated with the 21 Club in New York.

17. "Beringer Brothers Appoint East Coast Distributors," Wine Review , December 1941, p. 27; E. B. Wienand, "The Big Four and the Facts," Wines and Vines , February 1944, p. 13; "Beringer Bros. Agencies Set," ibid, October 1946, p. 38.

18. The genesis of this relationship is covered in chapter I.

19. Dave H. Boley, "Some Reasons for Our Success," Wines and Vines , March 1942, p. 28.

20. "Unique Display," Wines and Vines , December 1942, p. 27.

21. "Christian Brothers Take Over Mount Tivy," Wines and Vines , July 1945, p. 9.

22. It is true that Martini had not sold wine under the Martini label prior to 1940, but he had done so out his Kingsburg plant, which had been sold to Central Wineries for $1,000,000.

23. Much of this synopsis is derived from two interviews by Ruth Teiser: Robert Mondavi's Creativity in the California Wine Industry and Peter Mondavi's Advances in Technology and Production at Charles Krug Winery, 1946-1988 (both BL). See also the discussion of the Mondavi family and their Sunny St. Helena Winery in chapter 2.

24. ''Gibson Buys Acampo," Wines and Vines , April 1943, p. 13.

25. "Wine Industry Faces Problems," St. Helena Star , January 12, 1943, p. 8. See also Robert Mondavi, Creativity , pp. 12-13.

26. "Charles Krug Winery Undergoes Improvement," Wine Review , June 1945. p. 34.

27. Robert Mondavi, Creativity , pp. 19, 21, 16; Charles Krug advertisement, Wines and Vines , December 1944, p. 32. See also "Moffitt Sells Krug Ranch," St. Helena Star , March 5, 1943, and "Wineries Change Hands," Wines and Vines , March 1943, p. 41.

28. Robert Mondavi, Creativity , p. 26.

29. "Successful Year Reported at Winery Directors' Meet," St. Helena Star , August 20, 1943, p. 1.

30. "Wine Firm Files Certificate, St. Helena Star , July 25, 1947, p. 6.

31. See the following: "St. Helena Winery Sold," St. Helena Star , February 26, 1946, p. 1; "Sunny St. Helena Sold to Stelling Jr.," Wine Review , April 1946, p. 90; "Sunny St. Helena Sold," Wines and Vines , April 1946, p. 94; and BATF correspondence from District Supervisor J. H. Maloney dated March 15, 1946, included in the Sunny St.Helena file, BATF Archives, Shield Library. Stelling later entered into a partnership with Charles Forni, and after Stelling's death, Forni ended up with ownership of the winery. In 1957, he leased the winery to C.Modavi and Sons, who subleased the winery to a group of growers who formed a cooperative operation to crush nonvarietal grapes for sale to Charles Krug. See Arthur H. Schmidt, "Sunny St. Helena Winery," September 7, 1975, in HNV , vol. 2.

32. "C. Mondavi and Sons Announce Expansion," St. Helena Star , May 3, 1946, p. 1; "Mondavi Reorganizes Firm," Wine Review , May 1946, p. 19; Mondavi Sales Program," Wines and Vines , May 1946, p. 46.

33. Robert Mondavi, Creativity , p. 22.

34. "Third County Winery Sold," St. Helena Star , March 26, 1943, p. 1.

35. "Report on Application," July 29, 1944, in Napa Valley Grape Products file, BATF records.

36. Report from F. E. Rilling to J. H. Maloney regarding San Gabriel Wine Co., September 2, 1944, in Napa Grape Products file, BATF records.

37. Ibid.

38. See advertisement in Wines and Vines , June 1941, p. 24, listing the San Gabriel Wine Co. of Long Island as distributing "Cordova," a "delicious, farfamed quality wine from grapes of the famous Cordova Vineyard."

39. "New Winery Formed," Wines and Vines , September 1943, p. 27.

40. "Colombo Wines Now Property of Napa Valley Grape Products," Wines and Vines , October 1944, p. 31; "Colombo Wines Distributed by Napa Grape Products," Wine Review , October 1944, p. 32. See also Roland Federspiel's Announcement" in Wines and Vines , January 1945, p. 23.

41. "Colombo Wines Now Property of Napa Valley Grape Products," Wines and Vines , October 1944.

42. "Colombo Wine Salesmen Meet," Wines and Vines , February, 1945, p.42; Colombo Sales Staff Meets," ibid., May 1945, p. 30.

43. "Winery to Be Operated in St. Helena," St. Helena Star , June 8, 1945, p. 1.

44. "Napa Valley Winery Now Completed," Wine Review , September 1945, p. 26. All Colombo advertisements mentioned that Colombo wine was "also available in bulk," The press announcements pointed out that the two wineries together had a total storage capacity of 500,000 gallons, but did not mention the Mills Winery in Sacramento, Which Miglianccio had perhaps sold help finance the St. Helena operation.

45. "Migliaccio Will Filed," St.Helena Star , April 26, 1946, p. 10; "B. Migliaccio Passes Away," Wines and Vines , April 1946, p. 90.

46. Legal announcement, St. Helena Star , August 30, 1946, p. 7. A later legal listing of DBAs included the "Bon-Core Wine Company," a variation on the DBA filed for Migliaccio by the Cucamonga Pioneer Vineyard in 1941. See "Wine Files Certificate," St. Helena Star , July 25, 1947, p. 6.

47. Quotation and information on history of Bragno and Co. from Bruce McCubbin's July 17, 1943, report to J. H. Maloney on sources of funds for winery purchase, Larkmead file, BATF records.

48. L. G. Welch, inspection report, August 6,1943,p.5, quoting James C. Bragno, Larkmead file, BATF records.

49. Ibid., pp. 3-4. Joseph Gentile's surfaces again in 1947. He had expanded Brookside and purchased a large winery in Healdsburg in order to secure dry wine. Ultimately, the Alta Winery went in bankrupt, and during the 1947 price slump, Gentiles leased the Healdsburg plant to a group of Napa growers who had formed an informal cooperative. Riverbank was later trasnferred from America Wineries of Bragno and Co.

50. Statement of Ownership, April 13, 1943, in Larkmead file, BATF records; "Larkmead Vineyards Files Articles of Incorporation," Wine Review , April 1941, p. 29.

51. Elmer Salmina, Wine Review , June 1944, p. 16.

52. See L. G. Welch, inspection report, August 6, 1943, in Larkmead file, BATF records, p. 1; "Famous Larkmead Winery, Owned by Salmina Family, Changes Hands," St. Helena Star , June 25, 1943, p. 1. The sale actually involved two properties: Larkmead Vineyards, Inc., which owned the winery, and Salmina Lands, Inc., which owned the surrounding vineyards.

53. Blum was also already involved in the California wine industry. He was a minority shareholder in the Colton Winery, managed by Louis Golan of LaNglo fame. See "Wineries Change Hands," Wines and Vines , March 1943, p. 41.

54. Bruce McCubbin, report to J. Maloney, July 17, 1943. For details of the financing, see Welch's report of August 6, 1943. The organization of Philip Blum and Co. is laid out in a "Chart of Organization," dated January 28, 1948. All are located in the Larkmead file, BATF records.

55. Welch report, August 6, 1943, p. 1, Larkmead file, BATF records.

56. "Bragno Wines," Wine Review , November 1944, p. 26.

57. "Summary of Operations during Period July 26, 1943 to January 26, 1944," Larkmead file, BATF records.

58. See typical trade advertisements for Larkmead in Wines and Vines , April 1945, p. 62. and Wine Review , August 1945, p. 129.

59. Inspector C. G. Dudley, report, December 5, 1946, Larkmead file, BATF records.

60. "Fermenting Room Versatility at Larkmead Vineyards," Wines and Vines , January 1947, p. 31.

61. Larkmead advertisement, Wine Review , April 1947, p. 37. See also an advertisement in Wines and Vines , October 1947, p. 5.

62. "Harry Blum Sells Larkmead," Wines and Vines , January 1948,p. 39; "Larkmead Sold to National Distillers," St. Helena Star , January 2, 1948, p. 1.

63. Bartolucci interview, HNV , 3:6.

64. Ibid., p. 8.

65. "Oakville Winery Seeks Time Extension in Bankruptcy," St. Helena Star , August 29, 1947, p. 1.

66. Bartolucci interview, HNV , 3:10-11.

67. See the discussion of grape prices in chapter 5 for more details.

68. "Grape Prices Discussed," St. Helena Star , September 15, 1944, p. 8.

69. "Napa County Growers Set Basic Grape Price, $100 Black, $120 White," St. Helena Star , September 21, 1945, p. 1.

70. "Prices of Black Grapes Set at $123, White $141," St. Helena Star , September 20, 1946, p. 1.

71. Cresta Blanca advertisements, St. Helena Star , November 15, 1943, p. 5, and ibid., July 28, 1944, p. 8.

72. "More Dry Wine Grapes in Napa County," Wine Review , June 1945, p. 32, indicates that over 600 acres were planted in 1945 and that 300 had been planted previously. In 1946, an additional 200 acres were set out. See " Wines and Vines Previews 1946 Plantings," Wines and Vines , August 1946, p. 19. Total vineyard acreage in the Napa Valley was about 11,700 in 1945.

73. Louis M. Martini and Louis P. Martini, Wine Making in the Napa Valley (BL), p. 35; "Garetto Winery Buys Vineyard," Wines and Vines , November 1943, p. 36; "Federspiel Buys Vineyard," ibid., June 1943, p. 28.

74. "Stanley Ranch Changes Ownership," Wine Review , March 1945, p. 26. See also "St. Helenans Buy Stanley Ranch at Napa," St. Helena Star , February 16, 1945, p. 1.

75. "More Dry Wine Grapes in Napa County," Wine Review , June 1945.

76. See "Martin Stelling Dies in Crash," Napa Register , May 7, 1950, p. 1, on his membership in the Bohemian Club. His participation in the campaign to save the cable cars is mentioned in Gunther Detert, "Historical Materials on Far Niente," in HNV , 4:96.

77. "To-Kalon Changes Hands," St. Helena Star , July 23, 1943, p. 1; "To-Kalon Vineyards Sold," Wines and Vines , August 1943, p. 29. The Wines and Vines article mistakenly dropped a zero, placing the total acreage at 50 acres. They did correctly mention that Stelling in turn sold a portion of the property to Beaulieu Vineyards. Tchelistcheff reports that the Churchills had first offered the property to Mrs. de Latour, but that she thought the asking price of $200 an acre too high. According to Tchelistcheff, Mrs. de Latour later paid Stelling $450 an acre. See Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 73.

78. "Martin Stelling Buys McGill Ranch," St. Helena Star , March 31, 1944, p. 1. The reported sale price was $350,000.

79. Detert, "Historical Materials," pp. 51-52; Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 73.

80. "Purchase Vineyard Property," St. Helena Star , July 28, 1944, p. 1.

81. Bartolucci interview, HNV , 3:6-7.

82. "St. Helena Winery Sold," St. Helena Star , February 22, 1946, p. 1. The actual relationship between Stelling, Chaix, and Forni is confused. Tchelistcheff asserts that Forni put the group together for the purpose of processing their grapes and selling bulk wine and claims that they were producing "good quality wines" (Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 100). Since Chaix and Forni were both members of the Napa co-op, one wonders why they would have sought another arrangement. It may be that they went into business with Stelling to produce varietal bulk wines, although, if so, no records are extant. Certainly, Forni was involved. Following Stelling's death, Forni ended up with ownership of Sunny St. Helena. The winery was later operated from 1956 through 1970 as a cooperative of local growers for crushing nonvarietal grapes. The resulting wine was then sold to C. Mondavi and Sons. See Arthur Schmidt, ''Sunny St. Helena Winery," in History of Napa Valley , 2:2.

83. "County Growers Refuse $35 Ton; Form Pool to Crush Own Grapes," St. Helena Star , September 12, 1947, p. 1; "Martin Stelling, Prominent Valley Agriculturist, Killed in Accident," St. Helena Star , May 11, 1950, p. 1.

84. The Benson Winery later became Far Niente. See Detert, "Historical Materials," p. 52. The property was purchased by Italian Swiss Colony, and then later sold to the former vineyard manager, Ivan Schock, who provided grapes for Beaulieu. After a dispute with Beaulieu, Schock sold the vineyard to Charles Krug, greatly increasing its supply of varietal grapes. See Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , pp. 74-75.

85. "More Dry Wine Grapes in Napa County," Wine Review , June 1945, p. 32; " Wines and Vines Previews 1946 Plantings," Wines and Vines , August 1946, p. 19.

86. "Cella Buys Napa Winery," Wine Review , September 1947, p. 26.

87. H. J. Baade, "Vineyard, Orchard and Farm," St. Helena Star , April 3, 1942, p. 7.

88. "Practical Guide for State Wine Growers," St. Helena Star , December 24, 1943, p. 3. See also Irving Marcus, "Which Grapes in Which Districts for Which Wines: An Introduction to One of the Most Important Writings on Grapes That Has Ever Been Placed in the Hands of Our Winemen," Wines and Vines , December 1943, p. 11.

89. A. J. Winkler, "Grape Plantings during 1945," Wines and Vines , December 1945, p. 26.

90. Some financial analysts refer to return and risk as "greed" and "fear." They may be correct.

91. "Commenting on the News — Plantings," Wines and Vines , April 1945, p. 17.

92. Walter S. Richert, "What Grapes to Plant," Wines and Vines , December 1946, p. 36.

93. "Commenting on the News — Grapes," Wines and Vines , January 1945, p. 9.

94. "More Dry Wine Grapes in Napa County," Wine Review , June 1945, p. 32.

95. H. E. Jacob and A. J. Winkler, "Limit Grape Plantings to Good Wine Grape Varieties," Wines and Vines , January 1945, p. 28.

96. Martin Gould, "Inglenook Pinot Chardonnay Yields Good Tonnage," Wines and Vines , April 1945, p. 31. This is the first instance I have found of Chardonnay being grown in Napa Valley after Repeal.

97. Irving H. Marcus, "Give the Devil His Due," Wines and Vines , December 1946, p. 17. This one-page article on the end of OPA regulations is probably the single best summary of the effect that OPA regulations had on the California wine industry.

98. John Daniel, Jr., "Notes," in History of Napa Valley , 1:236.

99. Louis P. Martini, interview with the author, March 14,1991; Martini and Martini, Wine Making , p. 45.

100. Peter Mondavi, "Advances in Technology and Production," p. 19.

101. "New Winery in Month," California Wine Review , July 1934, p. 34; "Sell Fine Mountain Ranch," St. Helena Star , October 1, 1943, p. 1.

102. "The Rough Road to Quality," Wines and Vines , August 1948, p. 19.

103. "State Fair Awards," Wines and Vines , September 1948, p. 13.

104. "Wine Awards at the California State Fair," Wines and Vines , September 1941, p. 17.

105. "Napa County Wines Take State Fair Honors," St. Helena Star , September 12, 1947, p. 1; "Awards in Wine Competition," Wines and Vines , September 1947, p. 12. The ten award-winning Napa wineries were: Beringer, Beaulieu, Mont La Salle (Christian Brothers), Inglenook, Martini, Pocai & Sons, Garetto, Larkmead, Charles Krug, and Souverain. In historical fairness, it should be noted that Wente Brothers of Alameda County was the clear individual winner. Wente took over half the awards given to Alameda County, including seven gold medals. See also Time magazine's coverage of the State Fair, which antagonized the California industry by pointing out that "for 14 different varieties out of the 45 judged, the entries were so poor that no gold medals were awarded'' ("Judgment Day," Time , September 22, 1947, p. 86). Time's use of the word varieties is incorrect, however; it should have been categories .

106. Martini and Martini, Wine Making , p. 42.

107. "Napa Valley Vintners in New Organization," St. Helena Star , January 26, 1945, p. 1. See also "Napa Valley Vintners from New Association," Wine Review , February 1945, p. 16, and "New Winery Association Formed," Wines and Vines , February 1945, p. 42.

108. "Wine Week Observed," St. Helena Star , November 18, 1946, p. 1.

109. "Napa Valley Vintners Host to Technical Committee," Wine Review , July 1945, p. 20; "St. Helena Featured Wine Week Banquet," Wine Review , November 1945, p. 32; "Banquet Honors California Wines," Wines and Vines , November 1946, p. 62; and "Problems of Wine Growers Discussed," St. Helena Star , February 13, 1948, p. 5, are all representative of the Vintner's Association's activities.

110. "Seek Experiment Station for U.C.," St. Helena Star , March 16, 1945, p. 1; "Vintners in Favor of Conn Water Bonds," St. Helena Star , July 25, 1947, p. 6. The USDA site was not turned over to the university until after the war, but Martin Stelling did sell twenty acres of McGill ranch land to the university in 1947. This became the "south'' vineyard of the Oakville Experiment Station. See "U.C. Buys Valley Land for Grape Experiments," St. Helena Star , May 2, 1947, p. 1.

111. This collection of early members is derived from several different sources. See Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 91; Martini and Martini, Wine Making , p. 43; Deuer interview, HNV , 2:132; and Robert Mondavi, Creativity , p. 28.

112. Deuer maintains that the Napa Valley Wine Technical Group was started "before the war," but he is almost certainly mistaken. Louis P. Martini puts the date at 1947, and Tchelistcheff maintains that the group grew out of a series of classes he taught for returning veterans.

113. Deuer interview, HNV , 2:37.

114. "Martini Stelling Heads Grape Growers Group," St. Helena Star , August 29, 1947, p. 1.

115. "County Growers Refuse $35 Ton; Form Pool to Crush Own Grapes," St. Helena Star , September 12, 1947, p. 1. See also "Napa County Association Leases Alta's Healdsburg Wine Plant," Wine Review , October 1947, p. 26.

116. "Cella Vineyards Buy Napa Wine Co.," St. Helena Star , August 22, 1947, p. 1.

117. "Producers Least Affected by Slump," Wines and Vines , September 1947, p. 6.

1. Edmund A. Rossi, "The Coming Expansion of the Table Wine Market," Wines and Vines , December 1944, p. 29.

2. In 1944, sales of sweet wine totaled 57.7 million gallons, as compared to 36.1 million gallons of table wine. See "Statistical Review 1947," Wines and Vines , April 1948, p. 30.

3. "Active California Bonded Wine and Brandy Production and Storage Premises," Wines and Vines , April 1951, p. 41; "California Bonded Wine and Brandy Premises," Wines and Vines , April 1967, p. 32. The low point was reached in 1967, inasmuch as "boutique" wineries joined the industry in subsequent years.

4. Fred S. Orth, "A Banker Takes the Measure of the California Wine Industry," Wines and Vines , April 1963, pp. 27-28, 30, 32. Orth does not name the wineries, but they must have been Gallo, United Vintners/Allied Growers, and Guild/Roma, in that order.

5. Between 1934 and 1947, table wines had averaged 31 percent of total sales. In 1952, the north and central coasts produced 18 million of the state's total 37.3 million gallons of table wine, roughly 48 percent. That percentage held in 1957, when the coastal counties combined to deliver 16.3 million gallons out of a total of 34 million. By 1962, as increased acreage came into bearing in the northern San Joaquin Valley, the figure dropped to 38 percent. See the April "statistical issue" of Wines and Vines for each year.

6. See "Stabilization Order Proposed," Wines and Vines , March 1961, p. 15. The 1961 Grapes for Crushing Marketing Order is also discussed in Orth, "Banker Takes the Measure of the California Wine Industry," p. 28.

7. The actual grape acreage controlled by these quality producers is covered later in this chapter.

8. The industry consultant Lou Gomberg's figures for 1952, derived from California excise tax payments, indicate that Christian Brothers sold five times as much dessert as table wine in that year: 93,000 case of table wine and 508,000 cases of dessert wine.

9. Robert Mondavi, Creativity in the California Wine Industry (BL), p. 26.

10. Irving Marcus, "The U.S. Market for Premium Wines," Wines and Vines , November 1951, p. 20.

11. Herman Wente, "Special Problems in Merchandising Premium Wines," Wines and Vines , May 1956, p. 21.

12. This estimate is derived from membership in the Premium Wine Producers of California (PWPC), established in 1955, which accounted for virtually all of the premium wine produced in California. Between 1955 and 1959, the PWPC's membership generally hovered around 25, and there were in all 315 bonded California wineries in 1955. The PWPC is discussed in chapter 8, along with the problem of defining premium wine.

13. Irving Marcus, "The Seven Fat Years of Table Wine Sales in California," Wines and Vines , October 1954, p. 22.

14. Louis Gomberg, "Comparative Growth Rates of Table Wines in the U.S., According to Origin," Appendix 1 of Report #61 to Academy of Master Wine Growers, August 8, 1966 (mimeo).

15. "The Book Shelf," Wines and Vines , January 1949, p. 20.

16. This should not be taken to mean that the wineries were the same size. In 1952, Christian Brothers' total sales were significantly greater than those of other premium producers because Christian Brothers sold over 500,000 cases of dessert wine in addition to its dry wine sales.

17. Grape acreage and expansion are covered in greater detail in chapter 9. Of the five, Beringer probably had the fewest varietal grapes, with most of its vineyards planted in "standard" black varieties such as Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, and Carignane.

18. Robert Mondavi, "Creativity in the California Wine Industry," p. 30.

19. Frank Schoonmaker as quoted by William Dieppe in Almaden Is My Life (BL), p. 21.

20. Data from the Gomberg Report . There were significant differences between the volume producers as well. Christian Brothers was by far the dominant dessert wine producer in the group. In 1967, roughly 55 percent of all its sales were of dessert wines, while dessert wine accounted for only about 20 percent of Almaden's sales mix, for example. More important than percentage, however, is volume. In 1967, Almaden sold more dessert wine than the largest member of the estate group sold table wine.

21. "What the U.S. Public Thinks about Wine," Wines and Vines , October 1955, p. 20.

22. "1952 Consumer's Survey Traces Pattern of Current Wine Buying," Wines and Vines , August 1952, p. 10.

23. Alfred Fromm, "The Bright Road to the Future," Wines and Vines , November 1956, p. 35.

24. Irving Marcus, "The Seven Fat Years of Table Wine Sales in California," Wines and Vines , October 1954, p. 22.

25. "1952 Consumer's Survey Traces Pattern of Current Wine Buying," Wines and Vines , August 1952.

26. "What the U.S. Public Thinks about Wine," p. 22.

1. Walter S. Richert, "Regional Promotion of Wines," Wines and Vines , August 1949, p. 14.

2. "See-Through Poster Welcomes Napa Valley Visitors," Wines and Vines , October 1950, p. 32; "Vintners Sponsor Cable Car," ibid., November 1949, p. 32; "Give-Away Too Good," ibid., April 1950, p. 86. The title of the last article derives from the fact that the cable car company curtailed the practice, fearing that it would make it a "freight carrier" in the eyes of the Public Utility Commission.

3. "Cooperative Promotion" (editorial), Wines and Vines , October 1949, pp. 3-4. Italics in original.

4. Francis Gould, "Napa Valley Vintners," Bottles and Bins , October, 1962, p. 2; "Lawyers Guests of Calif. Vintners," Wines and Vines , August 1962, p. 7; and "Napa Valley Vintners Play Host," ibid., June 1962, p. 14.

5. Frank Schoonmaker, "California's Vintage Vale," Holiday , August 1952, pp. 103-7. Quotations are from p. 103.

6. See "Wise and Otherwise," Wines and Vines , February 1955, p. 16, and "Napa Vintners Honor Author," ibid., April 1955, p. 9. The duchy earned wider notoriety in the 1959 Peter Sellers comedy The Mouse That Roared , but in the movie war was declared, not to defend national honor, but to win U.S. aid as a vanquished foe.

7. "Vintners, Movie Stars Meet," Wines and Vines , October 1958, p. 9, and "Wine Movie Opens to Considerable Fanfare," ibid., July 1959, p. 7.

8. Philip Lesly of the Philip Lesly Company, which was hired to promote premium California wines in 1959, spoke of the need to "surround the public with an atmosphere favorable to the idea we want to get across." See Lesly, "The Way We Plan to Do It," Wines and Vines , October 1959, p. 21.

9. Because the definition of "premium wine" was so imprecise, estimates of volume varied. Using a weighted average, Louis Gomberg compared the years 1948-50 with 1955-57 and estimated a 50 percent increase (see Gomberg, "What's Up, What's Down in Wine Consumption," Wines and Vines , August 1958, p. 40). Ed Wooton, representing the Wine Institute at federal hearings on wine tariffs, defined premium wine as wine costing more than $1.00 a bottle. According to his figures, 1955 projected sales represented a 39 percent increase over 1949 figures. See "Why U.S. Vintners Fight Lower Import Duties," Wines and Vines , April 1956, pp. 28-29.

10. "The Impact of Imports," Wines and Vines , May 1952, p. 11; Alfred Fromm, "It's the Truth!" ibid., April 1955, p. 29.

11. John Daniel, Jr., ". . . And We Quote," Wines and Vines , December 1953, p. 11; Robert Mondavi, "Table Wine Prospects for 1953," ibid., February 1953, p. 20.

12. Robert Mondavi, Creativity in the California Wine Industry (BL), p. 31.

13. Two groups, the North Coast Table Wine Producers and the Association of Chateau Wine Growers, had been created in 1950 to further the interests of table wine and premium wines. Neither was successful, although the Chateau group was active through 1952.

14. The nine core wineries were Almaden, Ambassador District Wines, Asti Vineyards, Beaulieu, Beringer, Buena Vista, Christian Brothers, Cresta Blanca, Hallcrest Vineyards, Inglenook, Korbel, Charles Krug, Paul Masson, Signature Vintners, Weibel Champagne Vineyards, and Wente Brothers. See Louis Gomberg, California Prestige Wines Study Report (San Francisco: Producers of California Prestige Wines, 1955), p. 1.

15. Louis Gomberg, "Memorandum: Co-operative Action by California Wine Producers to Combat Foreign Competition" (n.d.; included in the minutes of the California Academy of Master Winegrowers), p. 4.

16. Gomberg, California Prestige Wines Study Report , p. 23.

17. Edmund Rossi, manager of the Wine Advisory Board, indicated that the $2,000,000 taken in each year by the marketing order was spent in the following way: $1,000,000 for advertising, $450,000 to the Wine Institute for legislative work, and the remaining $550,00 for field men to "merchandise the advertising" by working with retailers. Minutes, Premium Wine Producers of California, May 5, 1955, p. 2.

18. Ibid., p. 4.

19. Don McColly as quoted in minutes, Working Committee Meeting, Premium Wine Producers of California, June 23, 1955, p. 1.

20. See "Chateau Wine Growers Assn. Formed," Wines and Vines , December 1950, p. 30; "Chateau Group Outlines Program," ibid., January 1951, p. 6; "Chateau Group Okays Special Label," ibid., February 1952, p. 34. For a more general discussion of industry attempts to define quality, see "How Much Quality Wine?" ibid., April 1952, pp. 6, 8; and Edgar Millhauser, "Quality Wine — Why Not Specific Categories?'' ibid., May 1952, p. 6.

21. These viticultural regions were conceived of and defined by Amerine and Winkler of the University of California during the late 1930s.

22. Minutes, Third Annual Membership Meeting, Premium Wine Producers of California, June 25, 1958, p. 1.

23. Gomberg, California Prestige Wines Study Report , p. 24.

24. Paul Snell, "Public Relations and the California Wine Industry," Wines and Vines , November 1956, pp. 24-26.

25. "French Wine Blues," Bottles and Bins , July 1950, p. 2.

26. Gomberg, California Prestige Wines Study Report , p. 10.

27. "Results of First 20 Tastings," Minutes, Premium Wine Producers of California, September 28, 1956, p. 1.

28. As reported by H. Peter Jurgens, "We Have Only Begun to Fight on the PR Front," Wines and Vines , January 1960, p. 21. The difference amounted to less than .05 percent.

29. Snell, "Public Relations and the California Wine Industry," p. 25.

30. Edmund Rossi, "What We Are Getting from Our Wine Festivals," Wines and Vines , March 1959, pp. 16-18.

31. "Can't Advertise Tasting Results," Wines and Vines , June 1956, p. 6. The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax Division (ATTD) was later upgraded and became the present-day Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (BATF).

32. "Marketing Order Hearing," Wines and Vines , March 1957, p. 15. The $400,000 figure comes from "What Happened in St. Louis," ibid., February 1958, pp. 22-23.

33. See Rossi, "What We Are Getting from Our Wine Festivals," pp. 16-18.

34. Ibid.

35. Ibid.

36. This is derived from minutes of the standing committee of the Premium Wine Producers of California (later Academy of Master Wine Growers) for October 2, 1958; April 15, 1959; July 15, 1959; and December 28, 1959. See Also "Public Relations for California Wine: The Record of Its Changing Pattern from 1934 to 1965," Wines and Vines , March 1965, pp. 14-15.

37. See "How the Industry PR Program Is Doing," Wines and Vines , November 1960, pp. 22-23, and "Public Relations for California Wine," ibid.

38. Francis Gould, Wines and Vines , June 1961. See also Louis Gomberg, "California — Plus or Minus for a Wine?" ibid., September 1961, p. 22.

39. Stanford Wolf, as quoted in minutes of the standing committee, Academy of Master Wine Growers, April 15, 1959, p. 5.

40. Robert Mondavi as quoted in "Major Talks Highlight 30th Annual Wine Institute Meeting," Wines and Vines , June 1964, p. 21.

41. "Action on Palm Springs Front," Wines and Vines , December 1964, p. 15.

42. Ibid.

43. Philip Lesly, "The Way We Plan to Do It," Wines and Vines , October 1959, p. 21.

44. Howard Williams, "What Consumers Want," Wines and Vines , November 1962, p. 26.

45. Ibid., p. 27.

46. Ibid.

47. "New 'Cask' Label for Inglenook," Wines and Vines , July 1960, p. 11. The regular Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon retailed for $1.65 a bottle, while the "Cask" wine sold at $3.25.

48. "Inglenook Label Change," Wines and Vines , November 1960. Inglenook had undergone a minor label change in 1951 when it repositioned the diamond logo and added a back label describing the winery and grape variety. See "Packaging Page," ibid., August 1951, p. 11. There is a bit of irony here. When Heublein decided to "reposition" Inglenook as a high-quality producer once again in 1987, it decided to return to the original diamond logo. The redesign by Colonna & Farrell won an award.

49. "The New Labels," Bottles and Bins , October 1961, p. 1. Actually, this was the second modification of the basic Charles Krug label, which had undergone changes in 1952 as well. See "New Label," ibid., July 1953, p. 1.

50. Francis Gould, "Room for Improvement," Wines and Vines , August 1948, p. 17.

51. [Francis Gould], "The New Labels," Bottle and Bins , October 1961, p. 2.

52. "We Have No Secrets" (Charles Krug advertisement), Wines and Vines , November 1962, p. 14.

53. For Inglenook, see "Packaging Page," Wines and Vines , August 1951, p. 11; for Beaulieu see "New Beaulieu Back Label," ibid., June 1956, p.5, and "Beaulieu Brochure Emphasizes Informative Back Labels," ibid., December 1961, p. 11.

54. Cecil Kahmann, "Has America Discovered Wine?" Wines and Vines , October 1964, pp. 16-17; quotation on p. 16. A thoughtful article on newspaper and magazine editors' perceptions of California wine.

55. Gomberg data in Appendix 1 of Report #61 to Academy of Master Wine Growers, August 8, 1966 (mimeo).

1. Frank Schoonmaker, "California vs. Imported — An Impartial Appraisal," Wines and Vines , December 1956, p. 24. (The capitals are in the original, and the entire sentence was printed in italics in order to underscore the point. However, it is worth noting that Schoonmaker had become a paid marketing consultant for Almaden, and that this article originally appeared in the Almaden newsletter, News from the Wine Country .) Cecil Kahmann, "Has America Discovered Wine?" Wines and Vines , October 1964, pp. 16-17.

2. See "Winemakers' Professional Group Formed," Wines and Vines , January 1950, p. 26, and "Enologists' Group Activated," ibid., February 1950, p. 26.

3. The Louis Martini winery had cold-fermented its Muscat since its establishment in 1934. However, it was primarily known for red wines and did not sponsor research into quality differences resulting from fermentation temperature.

4. Peter Mondavi, Advances in Technology and Production at Charles Krug Winery, 1946-1988 (BL), p. 10.

5. André Tchelistcheff, "Researches on Cool Fermentation," Wines and Vines , September 1948, pp. 23, 24.

6. "Wine Judging Box Score," Wines and Vines , September 1949, p. 14.

7. "Full Scale Cold Fermentation," Wines and Vines , February 1949, p. 22. See also "A Year of Progress," ibid., December 1948, p. 21, which commented that "the principal center for these researches" was in the Napa Valley, "where a number of wineries carry on all of their fermentation of quality wines are reduced temperatures, from about 50 to 60 degrees."

8. Al Huntsinger, "Back to the Basket Press," Wines and Vines , March 1949, p. 17. Charles Krug had three basket presses and one continuous screw press. "It didn't take long to learn that a continuous screw press was only good to get maximum recovery of press wine for distillation purposes," Peter Mondavi noted ("Wilmes Press vs. Basket Press," ibid., April 1965, p. 68).

9. Louis P. Martini, "Basket Press Hopper," Wines and Vines , February 1953, p. 29.

10. Ibid.; Mondavi, "Wilmes Press vs. Basket Press," p. 68.

11. "Garolla Press at Work," Wines and Vines , May 1956, p. 29; John Hoffman, "The Garolla Press," ibid., April 1965, p. 70.

12. Al Huntsinger, "The Wilmes Press at Almaden," Wines and Vines , November 1956, p. 51; Mondavi, "Wilmes Press vs. Basket Press," p. 68.

13. Louis P. Martini, personal communication to the author, December 20, 1993.

14. The French Vaslin press, essentially a two-headed horizontal basket press, was also introduced into the United States in the late 1950s. See "French Horizontal Press Tested Here," Wines and Vines , January 1958, pp. 29-30.

15. Julius Fessler, "Winemaker's Notebook," Wines and Vines , May 1955, p. 30.

16. Peter Mondavi, Advances in Technology and Production , p. 22.

17. Peter Mondavi, "Bottling Techniques under Nitrogen Pressure," Wines and Vines , June 1960, p. 12. See also William Bonetti, "Problems Encountered in Storage of Wine under Nitrogen," ibid., June 1966, p. 62, and R. R. Cant, "The Effect of Nitrogen and Carbon Dioxide Treatment of Wines on Dissolved Oxygen Levels," American Journal of Enology 11, 4 (1960): 164-69. Bonetti and Cant both worked at Charles Krug.

18. In conversations with me, Louis P. Martini and Peter Mondavi both claim that they used bentonite to achieve protein stability in the 1940s. While they undoubtedly did use bentonite to clarify their wines, I doubt whether they did so to protein stabilize their wines. Bentonite clay was widely used to clarify wine, and M. A. Amerine and M. A. Joslyn note in Table Wines: The Technology of Their Production in California (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1951) that "about 1/2 to 1 pound is used per 100 gallons," and that if bentonite is used with "hot wine, 1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 gallons is sufficient" (p. 107). Later Amerine and Joslyn comment that "protein cloudiness is poorly understood," and that "many white wines throw down a voluminous precipitate when heated to 150 F." (p. 234). Clearly, the bentonite reaction with positively charged proteins was not understood.

19. André Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology (BL), p. 138.

20. Tchelistcheff should be given credit for working on protein instability, but other researchers contributed too. In 1951, R. O' Neal and William Cruess of the University of California noted that "bentonite fining gave greater stability" when they were comparing wines heated to 120°F that had been fined with various fining agents. But they did not explain a probable mechanism of action. See R. O'Neal and W. V. Cruess, "Comparative Effects of Casein, Gelatin and Bentonite Fining," Wines and Vines , January 1951, pp. 17-18.

21. John Hoffman, "Sterile Filtration: Present and Future," Wines and Vines , April 1955, pp. 63-64. Christian Brothers was certainly one of the first wineries to adopt sterile filtration and bottling, but it was not the first. Morrie Turbovsky of Grape Gold Vineyards, which later became Madrone Winery, wrote in June 1949 that they had used sterile filtration for "a period of seven months," and that it had "proven quite successful" ("Practical Value of Sterile Filtration," ibid., June 1949, p. 22). Ernest Gallo indicates that the first commercial use of sterile filtration was at Wente Brothers ("Outlook for a Mature Industry," ibid., June 1958, p. 30).

22. Peter Mondavi, Advances in Technology and Production , p. 7.

23. "TAC Holds Full-Day Meet in Napa," Wines and Vines , June 1955, p. 32.

24. "TAC Holds Full-Day Meeting in Napa Valley," Wines and Vines , June 1956, p. 31.

25. Louis P. Martini, A Family Winery and the California Wine Industry (BL), pp. 58-59, and personal communication to the author, December 20, 1993.

26. "Krug Plans New Bottling Line," Wines and Vines , March 1957, p. 7; "Start New Krug Bottling-Cellar," ibid., June 1958, p. 9; "Wise and Otherwise," ibid., May 1959, p. 14.

27. Reese Vaugh and André Tchelistcheff, "Studies on the Malic Acid Fermentation of California Table Wines, I: An Introduction to the Problem," American Journal of Enology 8, 2 (1957): 75.

28. Bard Suverkrop and André Tchelistcheff, "Malo-lactic Fermentation in California Wines," Wines and Vines , July 1949, pp. 19-23.

29. Brad Webb was the winemaker at Hanzell in Sonoma County and later at Freemark Abbey in St. Helena. John Ingraham was a microbiologist in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at U. C. Davis. See R. B. Webb and John I. Ingraham, "Induced Malo-lactic Fermentations," American Journal of Enology and Viticulture 11, 2 (1960): 59-63.

30. John Castor, "Experimental Development of Compressed Wine Yeast as Fermentation Starters," Wines and Vines , August 1953, pp. 27-29, and ibid., September 1953, pp. 33-34.

31. George Thoukis and R. J. Bouthilet, "The Use of Pressed Yeast Cake in Winery Fermentation," Wines and Vines , January 1963, p. 25.

32. "Red Star Yeast Appoints Zacher," Wines and Vines , April 1963, p. 19.

33. Charles Schilling as quoted in "Fine Wines, Private Labels," Wines and Vines , September 1949, p. 16.

34. Amerine estimates that prior to the technological and scientific changes in the industry, North Coast producers accepted anywhere between 5 and 25 percent spoilage, partially because grapes were inexpensive. See Amerine interview, HNV , 4 : 174.

35. A decrease in grape acreage during the 1950s combined with a short crop in 1964 led to high bulk wine prices in 1965. See "Short Supply, Big Demand Boost Varietal Grape Prices," Wines and Vines , February 1965, p. 22.

36. Aldo Delfino, Napa County Agricultural Commissioner, Annual Report , 1966, p. 1.

37. Aggregate data from Louis Gomberg, Special Report , July 22, 1981.

38. "Wine Awards at the 1950 California State Fair," Wines and Vines , September 1950, pp. 25-26.

39. Total grape acreage is from Napa County Agricultural Commissioner's Report for 1951. Estimates for acreage owned or controlled by premium wineries are derived from several sources.

40. Gomberg excise tax data.

41. Charlotte Siegel, "Beringer's: A Winery with an Open Door Policy," Wine Review , July 1945, p. 12. On the Fawver property, see Raymond interview, HNV , 1 : 246, 255. Raymond estimated that after the lease ended in 1956, Beringer had "around 275 acres."

42. "Beringer Buys Garetto Winery," Wines and Vines , July 1951, p. 24.

43. Charlotte Siegel, "Beaulieu Vineyard," Wine Review , November 1944, p. 13.

44. "Italian Swiss Buys Napa Vineyards," Wines and Vines , February 1951, p. 28. Italian Swiss Colony had bought the vineyard from the Stelling estate in 1951. For a discussion of the arrangement between Beaulieu and Ivan Schoch, see Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , pp. 74-75.

45. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 121.

46. "Christian Brothers Buy Vineyards," Wines and Vines , May 1956, p. 5.

47. "Growers Receive Quality Bonus," Wines and Vines , January 1958, p. 12.

48. The 225 acres is mentioned in "United Vintners Negotiating to Buy Inglenook Vineyards," Wines and Vines , April 1964, p. 13. Charlotte Siegel, "Inglenook Vineyard Company," Wine Review , September 1945, p. 12, lists 155 acres of bearing vineyard.

49. The list is derived from "State Fair Wine Awards," Wines and Vines , September 1948, pp. 13-14; and from a Bellows and Co. advertisement for Inglenook wines that appeared in ibid., September 1949, p. 54.

50. The chronology can be reconstructed from Louis M. Martini and Louis P. Martini, Wine Making in the Napa Valley (BL), pp. 35-36, 86-87.

51. See Robert Mondavi, Creativity in the California Wine Industry (BL), p. 18, and Peter Mondavi's oral history, Advances in Technology and Production , pp. 17-18. The Krug winery property covered about 140 acres, and Robert Mondavi recalled that about 25 acres were not planted to vineyard.

52. Peter Mondavi, personal communication to the author, December 21, 1993.

53. "New Co-op Formed," Wines and Vines , June 1957, p. 7; see also Arthur Schmidt, "History of Sunny St. Helena Winery," in HNV , vol. 2, and Robert Mondavi, Creativity , p. 22.

54. "Charles Krug Buys 500 Acre Napa Valley Vineyard," Wines and Vines , February 1962, p. 7; "The New Vineyard," Bottles and Bins , April 1962, p. 1.

55. Peter Mondavi, Advances in Technology and Production , p. 36 and appendix 1.

56. "Wine Grapes Grown in Napa County, 1966: Black Wine Grapes," in Napa County Agricultural Commissioner, Annual Report , 1966.

57. Napa County annual tonnage figures are derived from the annual reports of the agricultural commissioner; tonnage figures for the Napa co-op from 1947 through 1965 were supplied by the Napa co-op, which is still in business; the tonnage for the St. Helena co-op is derived from "St. Helena Co-op Mortgage Burning," Wines and Vines , October 1959, p. 7.

58. "St. Helena Cellars Acquired by Wine Guild," St. Helena Star , November 9, 1945, p. 10. The St. Helena co-op was still a guild member at the end of 1947, when several members visited the guild bottling cellar in Lodi. See "Inspect Blending, Bottling Cellars at Lodi," ibid., December 26, 1947, p. 5.

59. See Napa Valley Cooperative Winery, "Minutes of Quarterly Membership Meeting," July 13, 1951, and "Minutes of Special Membership Meeting," June 2, 1952.

60. "Wise and Otherwise," Wines and Vines , October 1954, p. 14.

61. Robert Mondavi, "Table Wine Prospects for 1953," Wines and Vines , February 1953, p. 19.

62. R. L. Sisson, Sonoma County Wine Grape Management Study (Santa Rosa: Cooperative Extension Office, 1954).

63. Herman Wente, "Grape Growing in the Livermore Valley, Past and Present," American Journal of Enology 7, 1 (1956): 70.

64. Eugene Seghesio, "Grape Growing in Sonoma County," American Journal of Enology 7, 1 (1956): 77.

65. "How the Grape Grower Fares," Wines and Vines , September 1956, p. 23.

66. Grape prices are derived from the September and October issues of Wines and Vines during the 1950s. Each month the magazine provided a brief, one-or two-page review of industry news. During harvest, this review usually included grape prices.

67. See "Vintage Hits Peak," Wines and Vines , October 1959, p. 19, and "What California Vintners Paid for Grapes, By Varieties," ibid., March 1960, p. 16. The latter article mentions that short crop conditions on the North Coast were responsible for the "wide price range" between the San Joaquin Valley and the North Coast. This may be so, but it seems to have set a precedent for the 1960s.

68. Sisson, Sonoma County Wine Grape Management Study , p. 5.

69. "Double Napa Grape Yield Held Possible," Wines and Vines , February 1954, p. 6.

70. See "Industry Meets Researchers — and Vice Versa," Wines and Vines , January 1951, p. 15; H. P. Olmo, "A Proposed Program for the Introduction, Improvement, and Certification of Healthy Grape Varieties," ibid., July 1951, pp. 7-9; and "Industry Group Gives Consideration to Controlled Cuttings Program," ibid., August 1951, pp. 9-10.

71. "Grape Certification Association Formed," Wines and Vines , September 1952, p. 16; "Olmo Collecting Cuttings in Europe," ibid., October 1951, p. 32; "Olmo on European Tour," ibid., August 1953, p. 11. As usual, Napa vintners took a lead in the new Grape Certification Association. Of three industry directors or officers, two were from the Napa Valley: Robert Mondavi served as vice president, and Al Huntsinger, of the Napa co-op, was a director.

72. See the following for discussion of work begun in the 1950s: Harold Olmo, "Improvements in Grape Varieties," Wines and Vines , February 1964, pp. 23, 25; Cornelius Ough and C. J. Alley, "An Evaluation of Some Cabernet Varieties," ibid., May 1966, pp. 23-25; and Harold Olmo, "Clonal Selection in the Vinifera Grape 'Chardonnay,'" ibid., July 1968, p. 30.

73. C. J. Alley, "Certified Grape Stocks Available," Wines and Vines , February 1959, p. 30.

74. Lloyd Lider, "A Grape Rootstock Trial in the Napa Valley: A Nine-Year Progress Report of Three Stocks on Bale Loam Soil," American Journal of Enology 8, 3 (1957): 121. See also id., "Phylloxera-Resistant Rootstock Trials in the Coastal Valleys of California," ibid. 8, 2 (1957): 58-67; and id., "Selecting Proper Rootstocks for California Vineyards," Wines and Vines , February 1959, pp. 19-20.

75. AXR ultimately proved not to be phylloxera-resistant, collapsing in the mid 1980s and causing a major replanting of North Coast vineyards in the 1990s. In fairness to Dr. Lider, it should be pointed out that he never claimed that AXR was totally resistant to phylloxera. Previous trials by other researchers before Prohibition and after Repeal had shown AXR to prosper in soils that contained phylloxera.

76. James Cook and Thomas Kishaba, "Nitrogen Fertilization of Unirrigated Vineyards in the North Coastal Areas of California," American Journal of Enology 8, 3 (1957): 105-12; "New Vineyard Fertilization Check," Wines and Vines , February 1955, p. 7.

77. Robert Sisson, "Yield and Quality Response of Some Respaced North Coast Vineyards," American Journal of Enology 10, 1 (1959): 44-47. Yield per vine increased primarily as a result of increased berry size. Today, many vineyardists are experimenting with more densely planted vineyards in order to reduce berry size and increase wine quality.

78. John Daniel as quoted in Academy of Master Wine Growers, "Minutes of Standing Committee Meeting," June 26, 1963, in Report No. 49 , July 3, 1963, p. 3.

79. "Meetings on Vineyard Replanting," Wines and Vines , January 1960, p. 9; James Lyder, "Napa County," ibid., March 1964, p. 34.

80. John Fiske, "Napa County," Wines and Vines , February 1965, p. 31.

81. A. J. Winkler, "Varietal Wine Grapes in the Central Coast Counties of California," American Journal of Enology 15, 4 (1964): 205.

1. Irving H. Marcus, "The Coming 100,000,000 Gallon U.S. Market for Table Wine," Wines and Vines , March 1968, p. 15.

2. All of the above figures are derived from Gomberg's tracking of tax-paid wine removals.

3. This is perhaps an overstatement. Beaulieu's case sales did grow during the controlled economy of World War II, but this was more a transition from bulk production to cased-goods sales and did not involve expansion of vineyards or the winery.

4. Tchelistcheff as quoted in Richard G. Peterson, self-interview, in HNV , 2: 175.

5. This brief family history is based on James Conaway's Napa (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1990), pp. 106-7, 111-16. Conaway's book is not a standard history, lacks notes, and is based primarily on interviews. However, it is generally accurate, if melodramatic.

6. André Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology (BL), p. 120.

7. Ibid., pp. 72-73. She did, however, buy a portion of the vineyard from Stelling in 1942, which became "B. V. #4."

8. "L. M. Fabbrini Dies," Wines and Vines , September 1946, p. 46; "A. J. Fabbrini Succeeds Brother," ibid., October 1946, p. 42.

9. Legh Knowles, Beaulieu Vineyards from Family to Corporate Ownership (BL), p. 31; sales percentages are derived from the Gomberg Report .

10. I have not come across any listing of the varietal composition of Beaulieu's vineyards in the 1950s. A 1956 back label stated that Beaulieu had fifteen acres of Chardonnay. See "New Beaulieu Back Label," Wines and Vines , June 1956, p. 5.

11. The above is derived from Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology pp. 74-75, regarding the Schoch vineyard, and pp. 120-21, regarding the move to Carneros.

12. "Schenley Absorbs Park & Tilford," Wines and Vines , April 1958, p. 9; Knowles, "Beaulieu Vineyards," p. 31.

13. Knowles, "Beaulieu Vineyards," p. 32.

14. Ibid.

15. Gomberg Report data.

16. Beaulieu Wall Street Journal advertisement as reprinted in Wines and Vines , November 1966, p. 30. Italics in original. Actually, as we shall see, the Beaulieu advertisement was not terribly original — Charles Krug had used the idea in a 1965 advertisement that began, "Not Enough Charles Krug Wines."

17. Knowles, "Beaulieu Vineyards," p. 61.

18. Peterson, self-interview, in HNV , 2 : 178.

19. Knowles, "Beaulieu Vineyards," p. 44.

20. "California Wine: Everybody Wants In," Forbes , December 1, 1968, p. 77.

21. Tchelistcheff, Grapes, Wine and Ecology , p. 122.

22. Estimated growth is from Robert Mondavi, Creativity in the California Wine Industry (BL), p. 30; case-sales figures for 1968 are from the Gomberg Report .

23. "Successful Year Reported at Winery Directors' Meet," St. Helena Star , August 20, 1943, p. 1.

24. Such a scenario would fit the industry average, which saw bulk wine shipments out of California fall by at least 50 percent, but in the case of Krug, it is, of course, pure conjecture.

25. See full-page advertisement, "One of the Great Names in Table Wine," Wines and Vines , December 1944, p. 32, and "For Those Who Put Quality above Price," ibid., April 1946, p. 95.

26. "C. Mondavi and Sons Announce Expansion," St. Helena Star , May 3, 1946, p. 1. Similar articles appeared in the May 1946 editions of Wine Review , under the heading "Mondavi Reorganizes Firm," and Wines and Vines , under the title "Mondavi Sales Program."

27. Robert Mondavi, Creativity , p. 26. In his oral history, Robert Mondavi says that the McKesson & Robbins contract was signed in 1946. This may be correct, but the contract was not announced to the industry until July 1947, so Mondavi may be incorrect in his dates. See "McKesson to Distribute Krug Wines," Wines and Vines , July 1947, p. 40, and "Krug Distributor Named," Wine Review , July 1947, p. 26. The latter article comments that the announcement was made "at a general sales meeting and picnic luncheon held late in June at the Krug winery estates."

28. The Napa co-op's minutes show that it had sold 120,000 gallons of wine to the Mondavis in 1948 on a consignment basis in which the co-op's price depended upon the sale price. Apparently, most of the wine was sold in bulk. See minute books, September 10, 1948, p. 29; April 6, 1949, p. 71.; and August 12, 1949, p. 95.

29. The 75 percent estimate comes from Peter Mondavi.

30. See "California Wine; Everybody Wants In," Forbes , December 7, 1968, p. 73, for information on Almaden, and Knowles, "Beaulieu Vineyards," p. 53 for more on Beaulieu.

31. Using the Gomberg data for dry wine only, the 1968 sales of the four wineries were: Almaden, 1.2 million cases; C. Mondavi and Sons, 1 million cases; Paul Masson, .86 million cases; and Christian Brothers, .56 million cases. Almaden, with cash infused by its new owners, National Distillers, quickly pulled away from the others in the 1970s.

32. Robert Mondavi, Creativity , p. 19.

33. See "Who's Who at the Winery," Bottles and Bins , January 1950, p. 3, and Robert Mondavi, Creativity , p. 36.

34. Details on technological development in the 1940s and 1950s are covered in chapter 9. The tiny Hanzell winery in Sonoma is generally credited with the first use of French oak in the late 1950s (Irving Marcus, "The Ambassador's Winery," Wines and Vines , January 1960, pp. 16-18). In his interview with Ruth Teiser, Advances in Technology and Production at Charles Krug Winery,1946-1988 (BL), p. 20, Peter Mondavi recalled importing French barrels in 1963, after having tasted the Hanzell wines, while Robert Mondavi claimed the impetus came from his trip to France in 1962 (Robert Mondavi, Creativity , pp. 23-25). "Things Are Moving at Charles Krug," Wines and Vines , October 1966, p. 16, noted that the winery had recently imported 540 French oak barrels.

35. See "A Trademark Dedicated to High Quality Wine" (advertisement), Wines and Vines , November 1956, p. 28. The Mondavis joined other premium producers in boycotting the judging at the State Fair, and 1956 was the last year they entered the competition. See "Wine Judging," Bottles and Bins , October 1957, p. 1. and "Till Arguments Do Us Part" (editorial), Wines and Vines , March 1958, p. 4.

36. "Something New," Bottles and Bins , January 1956, p. 4.

37. Robert Mondavis recalled going "out to wholesalers in San Francisco, trying to get them to handle our wine. Nobody wanted it because it was an unknown entity." Robert Mondavi, Creativity ,p. 27.

38. Peter Mondavi, Advances in Technology and Production , p. 26. See also "Years of Progress," Bottles and Bins , January 1960, p. 3.

39. See Robert Mondavi, Creativity , p. 27.

40. "We felt that wine was a living thing and we had to personalized it," Robert Mondavi said (ibid., p. 26).

41. "Visitors Welcome," Bottles and Bins , July 1950, p. 1. See also Gould's historical review, "Years of Progress," ibid., January 1960.

42. There is the classic philosophical problem of disproving a negative. I cannot "prove" that other wineries in the Napa Valley did not provide regular tours earlier than did Krug. However, the Krug program of tours was the first of its kind to my knowledge.

43. To my knowledge, Bottles and Bins was the first. Almaden followed it with News from the Vineyard , written by Frank Schoonmaker, sometime in the 1950s.

44. I had the pleasure of knowing the printer James Beard, and of his love for the New Yorker . The walls in the lavatory off of his print room were papered in old New Yorker covers. His use of a typeface and layout similar to that of the New Yorker was, I'm sure, deliberate and yet another example of his deep understanding of the power of design. It was Beard who arranged for Malette Dean to design the Krug label and the Bottles and Bins logo.

45. [Francis Gould], ''Going on Four," Bottles and Bins , July 1952, p. 1.

46. Ibid.

47. By the second year, Gould had begun a quarterly recipe contest, with winning recipes printed in Bottles and Bins . In 1965, the Mondavis collected the recipes and published them, selling 2,000 copies of the resulting book before publication. See "Book Review," Wines and Vines , July 1965, p. 10.

48. "Tastings," Bottles and Bins , April 1954, p. 1.

49. Bottles and Bins , January 1961, p. 4.

50. Bottles and Bins , April 1949, p. 4.

51. "Around Home Plate," Bottles and Bins , April 1961, p. 1.

52. See "Establish Wine Firm," Wines and Vines , March 1956, p. 11.

53. "Years of Progress," Bottles and Bins , January 1960, p. 3.

54. "Not Enough Charles Krug Wines," Wines and Vines , November 1965, p. 43. This ran a full year before the Beaulieu advertisement discussed above.

55. This is Robert Mondavi's estimate and seems consistent with existing sales data; indeed, it is perhaps conservative. See Robert Mondavi, Creativity , p. 30.

56. Ibid., p. 22.

57. Ibid.

58. The above paragraph is based on Robert Mondavi's oral history, Creativity , pp. 36-37. See also "Changes in Mondavi Set-Up," Wines and Vines , April 1966, p. 9.

1. Leon Adams, "Who Caused the Wine Revolution?" Wines and Vines , February 1979, p. 38.

2. "Adult per Capita Consuption of Specified Beverages in the United States, 1971-1980," Wines and Vines , July 1981, p. 42. Tracing per capita consumption is confusing, since different sources used different definitions of wine. The figures are for all "wine" under 14 percent alcohol, thereby excluding dessert wine. Louis Gomberg generally then tried to determine what percentage of this was accounted for by the new "special natural" wine such as Ripple and Boone's Farm. The figures cited included such wines.

3. "The Major Continued Trend: Market Expansion," Wines and Vines , July 1981, p. 34.

4. In "A Possible Solution to Supply-Demand Imbalance," Wines and Vines , January 1975, p. 34, Louis Gomberg estimated that 212,361 acres were planted to wine grapes in California in 1970-74. Kirby Moulton, the University of California's grape and wine economist, tracked planting each year, and his total comes to a bit below 200,000 acres. The increase in bearing acreage is not really in doubt, but involves subtraction as well as addition, since old acreage was pulled out. By 1980, California had just over 290,000 acres of bearing wine grapes, a major increase from the 125,000 acres in 1967. See Wines and Vines , May 1976, p. 46, and ibid., July 1981, p. 55.

5. For 1967 figures, see Wines and Vines , April 1968, p. 22. The 1980 figures can be found in ibid., July 1981, p. 44.

6. "American Wine Comes of Age," Time , November 27, 1972, p. 76.

7. Ibid.

8. The tripling of income is cited in Harvey Levenstein's Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America (New York: Oxford University Press, 1993), p. 218. It might be argued that part of the increase was owing to inflation, which began in 1965 when Lyndon Johnson attempted to give the United States both guns and butter without raising taxes, but since inflation is estimated to have tripled prices between 1965 and 1982 (see Sidney Ratner, James Soltow, and Richard Sylla, The Evolution of the American Economy [New York: Macmillan, 1993], p. 538), it cannot have been the primary cause of the major increase in discretionary income between 1950 and 1970.

9. Leon Ullensvang, "Food Consumption Patterns in the Seventies: The Dimensions of Change," Vital Speeches of the Day , February 1, 1970, p. 241.

10. Ibid., p. 243.

11. Maxine Margolis, Mothers and Such: Views of American Women and Why They Changed (Berkley: University of California Press, 1984), p. 225, as cited in Levenstein Paradox of Plenty , p. 225.

12. Ullensvang, "Food Consumption Patterns in the Seventies," p. 241.

13. California Wine Advisory Board, Adventures in the Cookery (San Francisco: California Wine Advisory Board, 1965), pp. 4,118.

14. Arthur D. Little, Inc., Wine/America , vol.3: Wine and the Consumer (Arthur D. Little, Inc., 1972), p. 5.

15. "Coke's View: Things Go Better with Wine," Wines and Vines , September 1977, p. 40.

16. Arthur D. Little, Inc., Wine/America , vol. 3: Wine and the Consumer , p. 50.

17. Ibid., p. 5, and Arthur D. Little, Inc., Wine/America , vol. 1: The U. S. Wine Market , p. 30.

18. Alfred Fromm, "An Expert Evaluates the Industry," Wines and Vines , November 1981, p. 28.

19. R. R. Cant as quoted in "What Does the American Consumer Want?" Wines and Vines , September 1974, pp. 56, 57.

20. Arthur D. Little, Inc., Wine/America , vol. 3: Wine annd the Consumer , p. 18.

21. Ibid., pp. 7-9.

22. "The First Color Breakdown of Table Wine Marketing," Wines and Vines , December 1979, p. 28.

23. Used to the hard knuckles campaigning of the soft drink industry, Coca-Cola was surprised to find that the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms did not allow the use of direct brand comparisons in advertisement. After threatening to pursue a legal challenge based on the First Amendment, Coca-Cola backed down.

24. "Selling It Like It Is," Wines and Vines , September 1972, p. 23.

25. "A Wineman Tells It Like the Market Is," Wines and Vines , March 1971, p. 19.

26. "1980 Market: 490 Million Gals.?" Wines and Vines , November 1972, p. 18. The Wells Fargo economists deserve a prize: per capita consumption reached a 3.2 gallons, and total sales in 1980 totaled just under 480 million gallons. Again, this estimate is for all wines.

27. "1974 Forecast: 380 Million Gals.," Wines and Vines , January 1974, p. 17.

28. See "The Grapes of Wrath," Dun's Review , July 1972, pp. 35-37, 82, for a less-than-sanguine view of vineyard syndications. In the early 1970s, federal tax regulations allowed an almost complete expensing of vineyard development costs against other earned income. After the tax code change, these expenses were amortized across the expected life of the vineyard, generally thirty years.

29. Louis Gomberg, "The Five-Faced Winery Picture," Wines and Vines , September 1980, p. 43.

30. There is no exact record of new wineries. According to data reported in Wines and Vines , California had 231 bonded winaries in 1967 and 470 in 1980. Yet the difference of 239 is probably somewhat less than the total of new wineries established, since some both began and ended business during this period, while other older wineries included in the 231 closed their doors.

31. Napa County Agricultural Commissioner, Annual Report , 1967 and 1980. The gross value of grapes in 1967 was 5.8 million; by 1980 it was 49.8 million.

32. "Judgement of Paris," Time , June 7, 1976.

33. Although the Napa notice of intent was the first received by the BATF, the BATF chose to hold the Napa hearings second, on the rationale that Napa's formal petition was received after the filing of a formal petition by a group of growers in the Augusta area of Missouri. It was generally assumed that the BATF had decided to use the Missouri hearings as a test case, where fewer individuals were involved and less money was at stake in the outcome. See "Napa Hearing in March," Wines and Vines , December 1979, p. 18.

34. Rex Davis, "New ATF Proposals for 'Seal' Wine; Appellations," Wines and Vines , December 1976, p. 25.

35. Ibid.

36. Ibid., p. 26.

37. August Sebastiani as quoted in Wines and Vines , January 1977, p. 16.

38. "The BATF Hearings: No Meeting of the Minds . . . Yet," Wines and Vines , March 1977, p. 20-23.

39. A deteailed discussion of the 1978 regulations can be found in James Seff and John Cooney, "The legal and Political History of California Wine," in The University of California / Sotheby Book of California Wine , ed. Doris Muscatine, M. A. Amerine, and Bob Thompson (Berkeley: University of California Press; London: Sotheby Publications, 1984), pp. 412-46.

40. Wines and Vines , March 1979, p. 22.

41. "The BATF Hearings: No Meeting of the Minds . . . Yet," Wines and Vines , March 1977, p. 23.

42. "Napa Valley Appellation Hearings before the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms," April 28, 1980, p. 60.

43. John Gay, "Napa Valley Appellation Hearings before the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms," April 28, 1980, p. 58.

44. Howard Thompson," Napa Valley Hearing before the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms," April 29, 1980, p. 25.

45. Robert Mondavi, "Napa Valley Appellation Hearings before the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms," April 28, 1980, p. 42.

46. Stephen Higgins, "Napa Valley Hearings before the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms," April 29, 1980, p. 70.

47. "Napa Valley Viticultural Area," Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms, 27, CFR, Part 9, p. 2.

48. Robert Louis Stevenson, "Napa Wines," in The Silverado Squatters , 1883; Lewis Osborne: Ashlans, Ore., 1972), pp. 23-24.

49. "Mondavi, Rothschild Join in New Wine Venture." Wines and Vines , May 1980, p. 16.