Index
A
Abruzzini, Fred:
and Beringer Brothers, 80 -81, 241 n56
stresses brand recognition, 81
Acampo Winery, 105 , 117 -18
acidity, volatile, 52 , 54 -55, 61 , 81 , 88 , 163 , 167 , 229 n36
Adams, Leon, 197
on Martini Winery, 22
Agricultural Adjustment Administration, 44
Alaska Commercial Company, 13
alcohol: wartime demand for, 100 , 102 , 108
Aldridge, Kay, 114
Alexander, Paul, 117
Alicante Bouschet (grape variety) , 5 , 9 , 15 , 23 , 28 , 43 -45, 50 , 60 , 129 , 142 , 227 n5
Allied Grape Growers, 215 , 224
Almaden Winery, 115 , 141 , 143 -44, 164 , 187 , 189 -90, 201
growth (1960s), 182 , 223
improves technology, 164
Alta Winery and Distillery, 105 , 122 , 134
American Cream of Tartar Company, 8
American Distilling Company, 116
American Society of Enologists, 134 , 162 , 176
American Wine Company: Cook's Champagne label, 224
American Wineries, 122
American, Maynard, 46 , 50
analyzes and recommends grape varieties, 47 -48
on quality, 5
Amerine, Maynard & A. J. Winkler: Composition and Quality of Musts and Wines of California Grapes , 47 , 106 , 129
Angelica, 49
appellation:
economic significance of, 207
geographical definition of, 206 -9
Aramon X Rupestris (grape variety) , 178
Arthur D. Little Company: Wine/America , 198 -200
artisan wineries, 213 -14, 220 , 225
Association of Château Wine Growers in California, 151
Australian Wine Board, 199
B
Baade, Herman, 24 , 48 , 61 -62
on grape-pricing, 44 -45
on varietal planting, 129
Balzer, Robert Laurence: California's Best Wines , 141
Bank of America, 117 , 123 , 185
establishes Central California Wineries, 113
on market growth (1970s), 201 -2
Bank of Cooperatives, 25
Barbera (grape variety) , 23
Bartolucci, Louis, 111 , 117 , 125 -26, 128 , 134 , 215
Bassford, Arlene, 67
Beard, James, 193 , 268 n44
Beaulieu Vineyard Distributing Company, 10
Beaulieu Vineyards, xiv , 8 , 17 , 32 , 60 , 65 -66, 68 , 75 , 83 -84, 86 , 91 , 96 -97, 127 -28, 141 , 204 , 211 , 213 , 217
Charles Krug Winery compared to, 188
contract with Schoch, 171 , 185
de Latour establishes, 8 -9
dominates market in premium wines, 78 -79
Georges de Latour Private Reserve label, 40 , 170 , 219
improves technology, 167 -68, 183 , 219
introduces varietal specialization, 50
market position at Repeal, 10 -11, 44 , 77
market position (1940s), 23
not self-sufficient in varietal grapes, 184 -85
postwar market position of, 140 , 182
produces improved white wines, 162 -63
during Prohibition, 9 -10
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
remains static, 182 -88, 194
repackaging and label redesign, 160
"scarcity" advertising campaign, 186
shifts to varietal wines, 131
spoiled wine disaster (1938), 39 -40, 66
as successful business, 77 -80
supplies altar wines during Prohibition, 77 -79
technologically backward, 183 , 187 -88, 219
at vintage festival, 71
wartime growth of, 111 , 115 , 117
wins awards, 11 , 40 , 131
Bell & Stanton, 156
Bellows and Company, 115
Benson Winery, 128 , 253 n84
bentonite, 65 , 161 , 165 -66, 261 n18
Beringer, Charles, 81
Beringer, Frederick, 15 , 80
Beringer, Jacob: establishes Beringer Brothers, 15 -16, 80
Beringer, Jacob, Jr., 80 -81
Beringer, Otto, 81
Beringer, Otto, Jr., 219
Beringer Brothers, xv , 3 , 8 , 32 , 56 , 59 -60, 66 , 75 , 84 , 97 , 141 , 189 , 207 -8, 211 , 213 -14
economic position at Repeal, 15 -16
growth (1960s), 201
introduces varietal specialization, 50
market position (1940s), 23
postwar market position of, 140
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
promotional efforts, 81 -83
Raymond on, 15 -16
remains independent, 187
remains static, 182
Reserve Cabernet label, 11 , 220
self-sufficiency in varietal grapes, 171
shifts to varietal wines, 131
as successful business, 80 -83
supplies altar wines during Prohibition, 15
at vintage festival, 71
wartime growth of, 111 , 116 -17
wins awards, 68
Berkeley Yeast Lab, 165 -66
Bianchi, Adam, 27
Bioletti, Frederic T., 47 -48
The Principles of Wine-Making , 52 -53, 60
Winemaking on a Small Scale , 8
Bisceglia Brothers Winery, 113 , 223
Blake, Moffitt and Towne Paper Company, 27 -28
Blum, Harry, 123 -25
Bohemian Club, 128
Bonnet, Léon, 12 , 77
on volatile acidity standards, 55
Bordeaux (grape variety) , 43
Borhorst Winery, 36
bottling:
by hand, 65 -66, 106
independent, 99 , 101 , 103 -5
at the winery, 99 , 101 -2, 104 , 112 , 117 -18, 167
bottling technology: improved, 161 , 163 , 165 -67, 191 , 261 n21
Bouschet, Henri, 43
Bragno, Edward, 120 , 122 -24, 126
Bragno, Frank, 122
Bragno, James, 122
Bragno Wine Company, 117 , 120 , 122 -24
Bragno Imperial label, 124
buys Larkmead Winery, 122 -23
Lloyd's Imported label, 124
brand recognition, 10 , 81 , 117 , 135
branded wines, 24 , 27 , 35
developing market for, 83 -85, 87 , 93 , 95 , 97
wartime shift to, 98 , 102 , 106 , 110 , 112 , 120
brandy, 15 -16, 81 , 116 , 144 , 223
Brookside Distilling, 105
Brookside Vineyards and Distillers, 122
Brown Derby: wine tasting at, 153 -54
Brown-Forman, 187
bulk wine sales, 7 -8, 12 , 15 -16, 19 -20, 23 , 80 , 140
as segment of wine industry, 24 -25, 27 -35, 84 -86, 94 -95, 104 , 106 , 110 , 126
wartime changes in, 98 -99, 101 -2, 111 , 117 , 120 , 184 , 189
Bundschu, Carl, 13 -14, 83 , 96 , 107
and Inglenook, 72 , 79 -80, 241 n53
and labeling controversy, 94
promotes Napa Valley wines, 14 , 17 -18
Burbank Winery, 105
Burger (grape variety) , 41 -42, 60 , 106
Burgess Cellars, 203
Burgundy, 83 , 95 , 132 , 177 , 184
Butale, J., 35
Butler, W. D., 128
Buttimer, Rufus, 28
Byron Winery, 218
C
C. Mondavi and Sons, 217
C. K. Mondavi label, 118 -19, 142 -43, 173 , 188 -90, 195
Charles Krug label, 118 -19, 142 -43, 188 -90
holds wine tastings, 192 -93
innovative marketing by, 190 -94
market position (1960s), 190
Napa Vista label, 188 -90
publishes promotional newsletter, 192 -93
remains independent, 187
Cabernet, 11 , 17 , 40 , 56 , 60 , 93 , 132 , 173
Cabernet franc (grape variety) , 42 , 44
Cabernet Sauvignon, 80 , 170 , 172 -73, 177 , 179 , 204 , 214
Cabernet Sauvignon (grape variety) , 9 , 15 , 18 , 23 , 28 , 42 , 43 -44, 49 -50, 75 , 128 -29
Caddow, Henry, 44 , 51 , 85 , 89 , 95 , 106
"California Burgundy," 15
California Fruit and Nut Acreage Survey, 44 , 50
California Grape Certification Association, 177
California Grape Grower , 16
California Growers' Winery, 26
California Marketing Act of 1937, 85
California Prestige Wines Study Report (Gomberg), 149 -50
California State Agricultural Society, 75
California State Fair:
Napa Valley wineries win awards at, 68 , 74 -76, 131 , 254 n105
wine judging at, 14 , 17 , 35 , 74 , 76 , 132 , 151 , 163 , 170 , 191
California Wine Association, 67 , 78 , 224
California's Best Wines (Blazer), 141
"California's Vintage Vale" (Schoon-maker), 147
Canandiagua Wine Company: buys Inglenook name, 216 , 223
Cant, R. R., 199
Carignane (grape variety) , 15 , 43 -44, 50 , 106 , 129 -31, 142
Cassayre-Forni Winery, 203
Castor, John, 168
Caymus Winery, 203
Cella, John, 29 , 134
Cella Vineyards, 134 , 215
Central California Wineries, 22
Bank of America establishes, 113
GoLan label, 113
LaNglo label, 113
Central Wineries, 102 , 107 , 112 -13, 117
Chaix, Ed, 128
Champagne, 187 , 224
Chapin Tubbs Winery, 37
Charbono, 80 , 172
Charbono (grape variety) , 23 , 41 , 49
Chardonnay, 132 , 170 , 204 , 214 , 224 -25
Chardonnay (grape variety) , 49 -50, 129 -30, 171 -72, 177 , 179
Charles Krug Wineries, Inc., 119 , 189
Charles Krug Winery, xv , 21 , 29 -30, 37 , 126 , 128 , 141 , 158 , 171 , 185 , 211 , 213 -14
aggressive growth of, 188 -95, 217
compared to Beaulieu Vineyards, 188
improves technology, 162 -64, 167 , 188 , 191 , 194 , 204
Mondavi family revives, 111 , 117 -19, 163 , 189
not self-sufficient in varietal grapes, 173 -74
postwar market position of, 140 , 144
produces improved red wines, 191
produces improved white wines, 162 -63, 166 , 191
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
repackaging and label redesign, 158 -60
Robert Mondavi leaves, 214 , 216 -17, 219
"scarcity" advertising campaign, 194
shifts to varietal wines, 131
Stralla reopens, 27 -28
wins awards, 68 , 163 , 191
Chasselas (grape variety) , 42
Château Montelena, 204
Château Montelena winery, 36 -37
Château Petrus: Dominus label, 216
Château Souverain, 220
Chenin blanc, 166 , 191
Chenin blanc (grape variety) , 44 , 162 , 173 , 179
Christian Brothers, xv , 8 , 44 , 56 , 83 , 97 , 187 , 190 , 204 , 213
Château La Salle label, 223
economic position at Repeal, 19
established, 18 -19
growth (1960s), 182 , 222 -23
improves technology, 164 , 166 -67
market position (1940s), 23
marketing practices, 19 -20
Mont La Salle label, 18 , 20
not self-sufficient in varietal grapes, 172 , 174
postwar market position of, 140 , 142 , 144 , 256 n16
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
repackaging and label redesign, 158 -60
wartime growth of, 111 , 114 , 116 -17
Churchill, Edward, 33
Churchill, E. S., 32 -33
Churchill, Mary, 33
Citrus Products Company, 33
Claret, 95
Coca-Cola Company: enters wine industry, 198 -202, 270 n23
Codorníu Napa, 225
Colombards (grape variety) , 42 , 129 , 179
Colonial Grape Products, 20 , 102 , 127
Cordova label, 120
Complete Wine Book, The (Schoonmaker & Marvel), 40 -41, 91 , 161
Composition and Quality of Musts and Wines of California Grapes (Amerine & Winkler), 47 , 106 , 129
Concannon Winery, 141
consumer surveys, 144 -45
cooling methods, 58 -60, 62 , 64
cooperative wineries, 24 -26
Coppola, Francis Ford, 216
Covick Winery: Stralla buys, 29
Crabb, Henry, 32
introduces varietals, 41 , 232 n31
Crabb's Black Burgundy (grape variety) , 41
cream of tartar, 8 , 63
Cresta Blanca Winery, 29 , 102 -3, 108 , 121 , 127 , 185
Cribari and Sons, 81
Critchfield, Burke, 113
Cronise, Titus: The Natural Wealth of California , 41
Cruess, W. V., 51 , 55 -57, 60 , 62 , 65 , 75
Cucamonga Pioneer Vineyard Association, 120
Culinary Institute of America, 223
Cup and the Sword, The (Tisdale), 147
D
D. Richter & Co., 79
Daniel, John, Jr., 13 , 80 , 96 , 115 , 159 , 178 , 209
on foreign competition, 148
sells Inglenook, 215 -16, 220
Davies, Jack and Jamie, 224
Davis, Rex: proposes "seal" wines, 205 -6
de Latour, Fernande, 11 , 183 -84
de Latour, Georges, 11 , 63 , 96 , 147 , 209
establishes Beaulieu Vineyards, 8 -9, 77
introduces varietals, 9 -10
modernizes Beaulieu Vineyards, 39 -40, 182 -83
stresses brand recognition, 10
supplies altar wines during Prohibition, 9 -10
de Pins, Hélène: sells Beaulieu Vineyards, 182 -83, 185 , 187 -88, 195 , 219
Dean, Malette, 159 , 193
dessert wines. See fortified sweet wines
Deuer, George, 34 -35, 56 -57, 59 -60, 133
on wartime market boom, 115
De Vries, Marion, 89
Di Marco Winery, 32
distillers:
enter wine industry, 102 -4, 111
marketing sophistication, 103
Doak vineyard, 44
Domaine Carneros, 225
Draper, Jerome, 127
"Dream of St. Helena, The" (festival play) , 70
drinking habits, American, 3 -4, 68
See also market, American
dry table wines, 15 , 37 , 81 , 116
defined, xiv -xv
increased demand for, 130 , 136 -39, 142 , 176 , 181
market development for, 87 -88
outsell fortified sweet wines, 179 , 182 , 196
promotion of, 68 , 74 -75
at Repeal, 3 -5
as segment of wine industry, 136 -38, 140 -43, 145
Dry Wine Conference, 49 , 68
Dry Wine Institute, 4
E
Early Burgundy (grape variety) , 129
Eastern Wine Corporation, 105
Edmonstone, George, 26
Edward Bragno and Company, 105
Emergency Price Control Act of 1942, 101
enology. See winemaking technology
Enriques, Vic, 31
estate wineries: compared to volume producers, 142 -44
Estrella Winery, 220
Ewer and Atkinson Winery, 28
F
F. Korbel & Brothers Winery, 92 , 224
Fabbrini, Aldo, 78 -79, 184 -85
promotes public relations campaign, 149 -50
Fabbrini, L. M.: and Beaulieu Vineyards, 78 -79, 96
Fagiani Winery, 117 , 120
Fay, Charles, 77 -78
Federal Alcohol Administration, 44
and labeling regulations, 88 -90
Federal Alcohol and Tobacco Tax Division: on comparative tastings, 154
Federspiel, Edwin, 127
Federspiel, Roland, 120 -21
fermentation methods, 55 -65, 134 , 237 n86
improved technology in, 161 -63, 165 , 167 , 191 , 204
Fessler, Julius, 165 -66
festive wines, 48
Finkelstein, Benjamin, 36
Folle Blanche, 93 , 132
Folle Blanche (grape variety) , 23
Foreign Press Club, 154
Forman, Ric, 217
Forni, Antonio, 34
Forni, Charles, 27 , 127 -28, 253 n82
produces vinegar, 54
Forni, Mrs. Charles, 34
fortified sweet wines, 3 , 15 -16, 19 , 22 , 37 , 68 , 116 , 223
decreased postwar demand for, 136 -39, 144 , 256 n20
early market for, 81 , 87
as segment of wine industry, 112 -13, 136 -37, 140 , 144 -45, 179
Fountain Grove Winery, 92 , 141
Fountain Winery, 105
Frank Schoonmaker and Company: distributes domestic wines, 91 -93, 115 , 122 -23
Freed, David, 221
Freemark Abbey, 34 , 141 , 203
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
Frescobaldi, Marchesi de', 218
Fromm, Alfred: on foreign competition, 148
Fromm & Sichel, 116 , 145
markets Christian Brothers's brands, 19 -20, 116 , 145 , 187 , 222
Fruit Industries (marketing cooperative) , 175 , 224
G
Gable, Clark, 82
Gabor, Zsa Zsa, 154
Gagetta, Dennis, 34
Gagetta, Joseph, 34
Gagetta Winery, 32 , 34 -35
Gallo, Ernest: objects to public relations campaign, 155 -57
Gallo Winery, 28 , 138 , 155 , 157 , 185 -86, 197 , 200 , 215 -16, 223
contracts to buy co-op wine, 174 -76
improves technology, 168
Gamay (grape variety) , 9 , 23 , 44 , 162 , 172 -73
Gamay Beaujolais (grape variety) , 179
Gamay, rosé, 172
Garden Winery and Distillery, 105
Garetto, John, 127
Garetto Winery, 127 , 171
Garret and Company, 105
Gay, John, 207
Gentile, Fred, 122 , 251 n49
Gewórztraminer (grape variety) , 49 , 162 , 173 , 179 , 213
Gibson Wine Company, 105 , 118
Gier vineyard, 44
Golan, Louis, 113 , 117
Golden Chasselas (grape variety) , 41 , 129
Golden Gate International Exposition (1939), 11 , 40 , 69 , 82 -83
Wine Temple, 83 -84
Gomberg, Lou, 86 , 141 -42, 202
California Prestige Wines Study Report , 149 -50
as consultant to Premium Wine Producers of California, 149 -51
reports on winery production, 170 -72, 174 , 188 , 190
Gomberg Report , 142
Gordon, Frank, 73
Gott, Cary, xiii
Gould, Francis, 192
on labeling, 159
on Napa Valley promotions, 147
on regional wine promotion, 156
Grand Metropolitan, 216
Grand noir (grape variety) , 9 , 15 , 28 , 43 -45
Grape Growers' League of California, 21
grape growing: improvement of yield, 176 -78
Grape Varieties for Wine Production , 129
Gray Riesling (grape variety) , 9 , 44 , 179
Greystone Cellars Winery, 21 , 59 , 102 , 127 , 222 , 223
wartime sale of, 111 -14
Grgich, Miljenko, 204 , 217
Grgich-Hills Cellars, 203
Gross, John, 79
Growers' Grape Product Association, 99
growth (1960s): Napa Valley wineries react to, 181 -84
Gundlach, Bundschu and Company, 13
Gusmano, Andrea, 125
Gótedel, 17
H
Harvard Clubs, 146 , 193
Haskell, A. G., 69 -70
Haus Winery, 35
Haute Sauterne, 95
Heitz, Joe, 166
Heitz Cellars, 203
Hess, Donald, 223
Hess Collection Winery, 223
Heublein Corporation:
buys Beaulieu Vineyards, 182 -83, 219
buys Christian Brothers, 223
buys United Vintners, 187 , 216
enters wine industry, 200
Glen Ellen label, 223
Higgins, Steven, 208
Hilgard, Eugene W., 47 -48, 52
Hill & Knowlton: public relations campaign by, 155 -56
Hiram Walker: enters wine industry, 102
Hudson, Rock, 147
Huntsinger, Al, 133 , 164
I
Ignatius Russo, 105
Inglenook, xv , 8 , 22 , 34 , 56 , 60 , 66 , 75 , 83 -84, 90 , 92 , 96 -97, 141 , 178 , 182 , 187 , 211 , 213
Cabinet label, 14
economic position at Repeal, 13 -14, 44
emphasizes varietal wines, 130 -31, 135
improves technology, 168
introduces varietal specialization, 50
I.V.Y. label, 14
market position (1940s), 23
Niebaum establishes, 12 -13
postwar market position of, 140
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
remains static, 182
repackaging and label redesign, 158 -60, 259 n48
reputation degrades, 215 -16
self-sufficiency in varietal grapes, 172
as successful business, 79 -80
wartime growth of, 111 , 115 , 117
wins awards, 14 , 67 -68, 131 -32
Ingraham, John, 168
instability: causes of, 51 , 62 -65
Italian Swiss Colony, 20 , 78 , 84 , 99 , 102 -3, 106 , 108 , 122 , 125 , 171 , 215 , 223
J
J. Walter Thompson Company, 145
James B. Beam Distillery, 123
Johannisberg Riesling, 17
Johannisberg Riesling (grape variety) , 18 , 44 , 129 , 179
John Drumba, 105
Jordan, Rudolf, Jr.: Quality in Dry Wines through Adequate Fermentation , 52 -53, 60
Jurgens, Peter, 201
K
Kahmann, Cecil, 160
on modern California wines, 161
Kauth, A. F., 33
Kellstrom, O. F., 33
Kendall-Jackson, 217
King, A. C., 33
Kingsburg Winery, 21 -22
Kinney, Arthur, 70
Kirin Brewery, 221
Knowles, Legh, xiv , 183 , 185
and psychology of scarcity, 186
Kobrand Corporation, 116
Korbel Winery, 115 , 141 , 187
Kornell, Hanns:
buys Larkmead Winery, 125 , 224
produces Champagne, 224 -25
Kornell, Paula, 225
kosher wine, 20
Krug, Charles, 15
L
labeling:
by appellation, 205 -6, 212 , 220
geographical, 91 -93, 95 -97, 234 n15, 243 n89
redesign of, 158 -60
varietal, 22 , 49 , 88 , 90 , 94 -97, 115 , 205 , 214 , 241 n52
wine-type, 94 -95
labeling language: psychology of, 114 , 145
Labruyere, Jean Pierre, 207
Lail, Robin, 216
Landor, Walter, 159
Larkmead Vineyard Sales, 123 -24
Larkmead Vineyards, 123
Larkmead Winery, 8 , 29 , 83 -84, 89 -90, 92 , 96 -97, 126 , 207 , 213
closes, 125 , 134
economic position at Repeal, 17 -18
market position (1940s), 23
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
Salmina establishes, 16 -17
supplies altar wines during Prohibition, 16
wartime sale of, 106 , 111 , 117 , 122 -23
wins awards, 68 , 122
Lemon, Richard, 221
Lesly, Philip: on changing American life-style, 157 -58
Lichine, Alexis, 91
Lider, Jim, 177
Livermore Valley: wine production in, 10 , 90 , 92
L. M. Martini Grape Products Company. See Martini winery
Lombard, Carole, 82
Lombarda Winery, 21 , 34 -35, 37
Lombardi Wines, 105
Long, Zelma, 217
Loretto Distilling, 123
Los Amigos Winery, 141
Louis Martini, xv
Luna Vineyards, 221
M
Madera Winery, 106
Madrid Convention (1891), 88 , 243 n86
Maganini, Joe, 192
Maher, Dick, 208
Mahoney, James, 33 -34
Malbec (grape variety) , 42
Malm, William, 36
malolactic fermentation, 162 , 167 -68, 204
Marcus, Irving, 140 , 145
market, American: boom in (1960s & '70s), 40 , 160 , 196 -201, 214 , 217 , 219 , 268 n4
effect of postwar grape surplus on, 137 -38
effect of price controls on, 101 , 103 -4, 130 , 134 , 139
and interstate trade barriers, 86
and lack of wine experience, 2 -3, 7 , 52 , 76 , 83 , 153
limited size of, xv , 40 , 79 , 114 -15, 135 , 136 , 144 -45
postwar slump in, 98 , 107 , 109 -10, 112 , 119 , 124 -25, 134 -35, 137 -39, 189 , 194
wartime increase in, 68 -69, 93 -94, 96 , 98 -100, 103 , 106 -7, 111 -12, 114 , 120 , 127 , 135 , 136
wine preferences, 5 -6, 16
Marquis, Hal, 93
Marsh, George, 56 , 62 -63
Martini, Carolyn, 222
Martini, Louis M., 8 , 11 , 58 -59, 66 , 113 , 127 , 131 , 133 , 172
establishes Martini Winery, 20 -23
introduces vintage labeling, 22
reorganizes Martini Winery, 221
Martini, Louis P., 22 , 133 , 221 -22
on appellation labeling, 206 , 208
Martini, Michael, 211 , 213 , 222
Martini, Walter, 34 -35
Martini Winery, 18 , 35 , 59 -60, 64 -65, 83 -84, 92 -93, 96 -97, 141 , 177 , 189 , 211 , 213 -14, 217
Adams on, 22
economic position at Repeal, 20 -21
emphasizes varietal wines, 22 -23, 131
growth (1960s & '70s), 182 , 222
improves technology, 164 -65, 167 -68
market position (1940s), 23
Martini establishes, 20 -23
postwar economic position, 140
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
remains independent, 187
reorganized as a corporation, 221
Royale label, 22
self-sufficiency in varietal grapes, 172 -73
wartime growth of, 111 , 114 , 117
wins awards, 131 -32
Martinich, Dutch, xiii
Marvel, Tom, 91 , 96
Mayacamas Vineyards, 203 , 213
M.C.C. Importing, 116
McColly, Don, 151
McCrea, Fred, 203 , 213
McKesson & Robbins, 119 , 140 , 189 , 191 -92
Meridian Winery, 220
Merlot (grape variety) , 42
metal contamination, 62 -63
Metropolitan Fruit Distilling Company, 35 -36
Midwest Distributing, 105
Migliaccio, Ben, 120 -22, 126
Migliaccio, Mary, 120 -21
Mills Winery, 120 -21
Mission (grape variety) , 41 -42, 106
Moët & Chandon, 116
Moët Hennessy, 225
Moffitt, Charles, 27 -28, 117 -18
Moiux, Christian, 216
Mondavi, Cesare, 31 , 83 , 105 , 117 -19, 190 -91
dies, 194 -95
Mondavi, Peter, 31 , 118 -19, 131 , 133 , 163 , 165 -66, 173 , 190 -91, 195
runs Charles Krug Winery, 204 , 217 -18
Mondavi, Robert, 24 , 31 -32, 117 -19, 133 -34, 189 -90, 194 -95, 209
on appellation labeling, 207 -8
leaves Charles Krug, 214 , 216 -17, 219
on Napa Valley wineries, 8 , 18 , 23 , 176
promotes public relations campaign, 149 -50
on regional wine promotion, 157
starts his own winery, 204 , 217
Mondavi, Rosa, 190 , 195
Mondavi family:
lawsuit, 217 -18
management system, 188 , 190 , 194 , 217
revives Charles Krug Winery, 111 , 117 -19, 173 , 189
Mondeuse (grape variety) , 17 , 23 , 49
Mont St. John Winery, 203
Montebello Wine Company, 105
Montelena Winery, 35 -36
Montevina Winery, xiii
Moone, Michael, 221
Morrow, A. R.:
promotes Napa Valley wines, 68 , 74 , 76
on quality, 4
Mosby, E. C., 33
Moselle, 83 , 95
Mt. Eden Wine Company, 120
Mt. Eden Winery, 111 , 120 , 126
Mt. La Salle Winery, 84
Mt. Tivy Winery, 116 , 140
Mrak, Emil, 63
Mumm Napa Valley, 225
Munier, Leon, 78
and labeling controversy, 94
Murphy, Patrick, 33 -34
Muscat, 11
Muscat Canelli (grape variety) , 173
Muscat de Frontignon (grape variety) , 9
Muscat (grape variety) , 19 , 95 , 130
N
Napa Cantina Winery, 33 , 37
Napa Cooperative Vineyards, 128
Napa County Association for Prohibition Reform, 17 , 36
Napa County Dry Grape Growers' Protective Association, 26
Napa County Fair, 72 -73
Napa County Grape Growers' Association, 128
Napa gamay. See Gamay; Gamay Beaujolais; Gamay rosé
Napa River: as watershed of viticultural area, 206 -7, 209
Napa Valley:
approved as viticultural area (1980), 196 , 205 -9
commits itself to premium wines, 112 , 169 -70, 179
and concept of quality, 2
development of, xiv -xvi
dominance of premium wine market, 2
economic position at Repeal, 3 -6, 7 -8
fertilization and irrigation in, 46
geography of, 1 -2, 7
leadership in quality improvement, 162 , 166 -67, 200 , 205
leading wineries in (1941), 37 -38
"lifestyle" articles about, 147
marketing of wines, 67
new wineries in (1970s), 202 , 211 -12, 270 n30
publicity efforts after Repeal, 67 -71
reputation before Prohibition, 67
reputation (1960s & '70s), 196 , 205
supplies altar wines during Prohibition, 9 -10, 15 -16, 77 -78, 81
Napa Valley Cooperative Winery, 32 , 54 , 83 , 127 , 164 , 174 -75
established, 24 -25
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
Vin Mont label, 175
wartime growth of, 111
Napa Valley Enological Research Laboratory, 133 , 167
Napa Valley Grape Growers' Association, 134 , 205 -6
Napa Valley Grape Products, 117 , 119
Colombo label, 120 -21
marketing practices, 120 -21
wartime growth of, 120 -21
Napa Valley Vintners' Association, xiii -xvi, 149 , 206 -7
promotes Napa Valley wines, 132 , 146 -48, 157 , 162 , 193 , 203 , 205
Napa Valley Wine Auction, 211
as public relations device, 212 -13
Napa Valley Wine Industry group, 18
Napa Valley Wine Producers' Association, 18
Napa Valley Wine Technical Group, xvi , 133 -34, 162 , 203
Napa Wine Company, xv , 32 , 83 , 127 , 134 , 215 -16
Betsy Ross label, 29
and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 133
Stralla establishes, 24 , 27 -30
wartime growth of, 111
National Distillers, 124 -26, 134 , 187 , 215 , 222 -23
enters wine industry, 102 -3, 108 -9, 122
National Industrial Recovery Act, 89
Natural Wealth of California, The (Cronise), 41
Navone Winery, 26
Neibaum, Gustav, 159
Nestlé S. A.:
buys Beringer Brothers, 219 -20
enters wine industry, 200 , 202
sells Wine World Estates, 221
New Deal: and wine industry, 7 , 17 , 25
Niebaum, Gustave: establishes Inglenook, 12 -13, 79 -80, 216
Niebaum, Mrs. Gustave: reopens Inglenook, 13 -14, 79 -80
Niebaum Coppola Winery: Rubicon label, 216
Novitiate of Los Gatos Winery, 84 , 141
O
Oakville Vinyards, 111 , 121 , 125 -26, 134 , 216
O'Conner, Charles, 35
Office of Price Administration, 101 , 103 -4, 112 , 131 , 133 , 135
Olmo, Harold, 48 , 177
Ortman, Chuck, 220
P
Palomino (grape variety) , 41 , 50 , 60 , 106 , 129 , 162
Panama-Pacific International Exposition (1915), 83
Paris Exposition (1937);
Napa Valley wineries win awards at, 17
Paris Viticultural Experimental Station, 12
Park & Tilford, 11 , 39 , 66 , 79 , 184 -85
distributes domestic wines, 91 , 115
Parker, Robert, 212
Paul Masson Winery, 92 , 141 , 144 -45, 187 , 189 -90
growth (1960s), 182 , 223
Pendergast, Rose, 122
Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, 114
Peterson, Richard, 183 , 186 -87, 219
Petite Sirah (grape variety) , 5 , 9 , 15 , 17 , 23 , 28 , 43 -45, 50 , 60 , 129 , 142
Petite Verdot (grape variety) , 42
Petri, Lou, 215 , 224
objects to public relations campaign, 155 -57
Petri Wine Company, 25 , 28 , 84 , 99 , 106 , 125
Philip Blum and Company, 123 -25, 134 , 223
Philip Lesly Company, 156
Phylloxera vastatrix , 9 , 41 , 178 , 265 n75
Picker-Linz, 116
Pillsbury: enters wine industry, 200 , 202
Pinot blanc, 132 , 172 , 179
Pinot blanc (grape variety) , 50 , 129
Pinot Chardonnay (grape variety) , 213
Pinot noir, 93 , 131 -32, 224 -25
Pinot noir (grape variety) , 9 , 15 , 23 , 43 -44, 49 -50, 75 , 128 -30, 171 -73, 179
Pinot St. George (grape variety) , 18 , 43 -44
place-names, European: wine industry's use of, 88 -90, 94 -95
Ponti, Joseph, 77
"pop" wines, 200
potassium bitartrate, 63 -64
Premium Wine Producers of California:
as Academy of Master Winegrowers, 156 -57
competes with Wine Institute, 150 -51
established to combat foreign competition, 148 -49
public relations program, 148 -50, 157
premium wines:
American middle class discovers, 196 -201, 205
attempted regional promotion of, 156 -57, 258 n17
compete in taste tests with imported wines, 153 -54
defined, 148 -49, 151 , 257 n9
development of, 5 -6
dominance of Napa Valley, 2
increased demand for, 139 , 141 -42, 169 , 180 , 181 , 184 , 187 , 214
limitations on, 40
Napa Valley commits itself to, 112
necessity for, 7 -8
promoting market awareness of, 95
protected in market slump, 139 -40
public relations program for, 149 -55, 179 -80, 181
and regional appelations, 205 -6
as segment of wine industry, 148 , 169
as status symbol, 161 , 199 -200
See also varietal wines
pressing technology: improved, 163 -64, 191
Priber, E. C., 42
Principles of Wine-Making, The (Bioletti), 52 -53, 60
production:
primitive technology in, 39 -41, 52
progressive recommendations for, 53
unsanitary, 4 , 52 , 54 , 61
Prohibition:
effect on quality, 4 -5, 39 -40, 42 , 52 , 66 , 209
Napa Valley altar wines during, 9 -10, 15 -16, 77 -78, 81
Napa Valley's reputation before, 67
and spoilage, 16 , 54
Prohibition, Repeal of. See Repeal
protein instability, 63 -64, 161 , 165 -66, 238 n110
public relations:
modern methods of, 148 -49, 157 -58
psychology of, 157 -58, 186
Q
quality:
concept of, 1 -3, 212
and price, 151 -52
Prohibition's effect on, 4 -5, 39 -40, 42 , 52 , 66
at Repeal, 4 , 24 , 43 , 51 , 88
sources of, 40 -41, 60 , 161 , 204
and varietal specialization, 48 -50, 132 -33
See also premium wines; varietal wines
Quality in Dry Wines through Adequate Fermentation (Jordan), 52 -53, 60
R
Rainier Brewing, 217 -18
raisin grapes:
surplus of, 99
wartime demand for, 100 , 105 , 107 , 109 , 126 , 130 , 136
Raymond, Roy, 219
and Beringer Brothers, 15 -16, 46 , 60 -61, 64 , 221
on early wine market, 3
Raymond Vineyard and Cellar, 221
Raymond Vineyards, 203
R. C. Williams, 105
Red Bordeaux (grape variety) , 42
Red Pinot (grape variety) , 18
Red Star Yeast Company, 168
red wines: improved quality of, 167 , 169
Redwood Empire Association, 73
Refosco (grape variety) , 41
Repeal:
and development of Napa Valley, xiv -xv, 3 , 5 -6, 7
quality at, 4 , 24 , 43 , 51 , 88
wine industry's economic position at, 3 -6, 7 -8, 10 -11, 13 -21, 24 , 35 -37, 44 , 87 -88, 136 , 196
Rhine wines, 163
Riesling, 80 , 83 , 90 , 95 , 163 , 172 -73, 213 , 224
Riesling (grape variety) , 42 -43, 49 , 162
Riorda, Gioachino "Jack": establishes Sunny Hill Winery, 30
Riverbank Wine Company, 122
Riverbank Winery, 123
R. J. French Co.: enters wine industry, 202
R. J. Reynolds, 216
Robert Mondavi Winery, 204 , 216 -17, 220
expands and goes public, 218
Opus label, 218
Robinson-Hannigan Associates: public relations campaign by, 152 -55
Roma Wine Company, 29 , 84 , 99 , 103 , 106 , 108
Rombauer, Koerner, 225
Ronald Schiller and Associates, 156
Rose, Billy, 114
rosé wines: improved quality of, 162
Rossi, C. J., 119 , 121
Rossi, Edmund:
on wine industry's future, 136
on wine festivals, 155
Rothschild, Baron Philippe de, 209 , 218
Rubin, Hillevi, 154
Rupestris St. George (grape variety) , 9 , 42 , 178
Rutherford Hill Winery, 203
Rutherford Vintners, 203
S
St. Elena (steamship), 67
St. George Winery, 104 -5
St. Helena Chamber of Commerce: promotes Napa Valley wines, 67 -74, 69 , 73 , 76 , 93
St. Helena Cooperative Winery, 32
established, 25 -26
St. Helena Vintage Festival, 18
St. Joseph's Agricultural Institute, 9
St. Mary's College, 18
Salmina, Battista: establishes Larkmead Winery, 16 -17
Salmina, Elmer, 16 , 106 -7, 123 , 207
Salmina, Felix, 16 -17, 45 , 89 , 96 , 123
promotes Napa Valley wines, 17 -18
Salmina, F. W., 16 -17
San Gabriel Vineyard Company, 120
San Gabriel Wine Company, 120
San Joaquin Valley: wine industry in, 5 , 21 , 25 -26, 30 , 38 , 113 , 137 -38, 173 , 177
Santapia, Ralph, 121
Sauterne, 83 , 95 , 184
Sauvignon Blanc, 132
Sauvignon blanc (grape variety) , 42 -44, 50 , 129 , 173
Sauvignon vert (grape variety) , 42
Saywell, L. G., 62 , 65
Schenley Distillers:
buys Greystone Winery, 111 , 114 , 222
buys Park & Tilford, 185
Cresta Blanca label, 114
enters wine industry, 102 -3, 108 -9
Schilling, Charles, 169
Schlitz Brewing Co.: enters wine industry, 202
Schoch, Ivan: Beaulieu Vineyards contract, 171 , 173 , 185
Schoonmaker, Frank, 92 -96, 144
"California's Vintage Vale," 147
on modern California wines, 161
Schoonmaker, Frank & Tom Marvel: The Complete Wine Book , 40 -41, 91 , 161
Schorr, Abraham, 36
Schramsberg Winery, 224 -25
Seagram and Sons, 102 , 187 , 225
enters wine industry, 200
Sebastiani, August, 206
Seghesio, Eugene, 176
Seghesio Winery, 176
Semillon (grape variety) , 17 , 23 , 44 , 50 , 128 -29, 132 , 172 -73
Setrakian, A. "Soxs," 26
Shear, Sherwood, 176
sherry, 19
Shewan-Jones Winery, 84 , 102
Silver Oak Winery, 203
Silverado Partners: buys Wine World Estates, 221
Silverado Squatters, The (Stevenson), xiii -xiv
Simi Winery, 217
Simmons, Jean, 147
Singleton, Vernon, 225
Solari, B. C. ("Larry"), 201 , 225
and Italian Swiss Colony, 201 , 223 -24
Souverain Cellars, 203 -4, 213
improves technology, 168
specializes in varietal wines, 131 , 135
wins awards, 131
spoilage, 16 , 39 -40, 51 -55, 65 -66, 81 , 169
and blended wines, 54 -55
Spurrier, Steve, 203
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, 204
standardization, 48 -49
Stanton, Jack, 78
Stelling, Martin, Jr., 111 , 119 , 127 -28, 173 , 184 , 204
Sterling Winery, 217
Stevenson, Robert Louis: on Napa Valley winemaking, 209
The Silverado Squatters , xiii -xiv
Stewart, Lee, 131 , 203 -4, 213
Stoll, H. F., 95
Stony Hill Vineyard, 203
as artisan winery, 213 -14
wine tasting at (1994), 211 -13, 225
storage technology: improved, 161 , 165 , 191
Stralla, Lou, 83 , 127 , 129 , 134 , 215
buys Covick Winery, 29
establishes Napa Wine Company, 24 , 27 -30
sugar content, 56 -58, 61
sulfur dioxide, 57 -58, 61 -62, 166 , 168
Sunny Hill Winery: Riorda establishes, 30
Sunny St. Helena Cooperative, 173 -76
Sunny St. Helena Winery, xv , 24 , 30 -32, 37 , 83 , 118 , 173 , 189 , 194
Mondavi and Riorda establish, 31 , 117 , 232 n21
Mondavi sells, 119 , 128 , 250 n31
Sunwest Wines, 105
Sutter Home Winery, 223
Suverkrop, Bard, 133
sweet wines. See fortified sweet wines
Sylvaner, 93 , 132
Sylvaner (grape variety) , 18 , 173
T
tables wines. See dry table wines
Taylor, Jack, 213
Taylor California Cellars, 201
Tchelistcheff, André, 133 , 204
on American market, 79
and Beaulieu Vineyards, 9 , 11 -12, 39 , 77 , 171 , 182 -83, 187 , 219 , 229 n16
and Charles Krug Winery, 191 , 193 -94
on Depression in Napa Valley, 52
and improved quality, 162 -63, 166 -67
on Napa Valley wineries, 8 -9, 18 , 23
on production methods, 46 , 55 , 57 , 63 , 66
on Stelling, 128
on wartime market boom, 115
They Knew What They Wanted (motion picture), 82
This Earth Is Mine (motion picture), 147
Thomas, Charles, 217
Timothy, Brother, 57
on Christian Brothers, 19
Tisdale, Alice: The Cup and the Sword , 147
Tokalon vineyard, 173 , 184 -5, 194 , 218 , 252 n77
Tokalon Winery, 32 -33, 37 , 41
Tourne bacteria: and spoilage, 54
Traminer, 17 , 80 , 132 , 163 , 172 -73
Traminer (grape variety) , 44
Travers, Bob, 203
Trefethern Winery, 219
Tubbs, Alfred, 36
Tubbs, Chapin, 36 -37, 204
"21 Brands," 116
Ty Juras advertising agency, 156
Tycheson, Josephine, 34
U
United Vintners, 138 , 155 , 157 , 187 , 201 , 219 , 223 -24
Mission Bell label, 215
University of California:
Agricultural Experiment Station, 129 , 133
Berkeley Yeast, Lab, 165 -66
Fruit Products Laboratory, 51 , 55 , 61 , 65
Giannini Foundation, 176
promotes improvement of wine industry, 46 -48, 61 -63, 65 , 162 , 177
publishes wine-production pamphlets, 47 , 52 , 61
V
Vare, George, 221
varietal specialization, 48 -50
varietal wines:
economics of, 129 -30, 169 -70
marketing methods, 214 , 222
as segment of wine industry, 132
shift to, 40 -41, 44 , 46 -47, 128 -32, 137 , 161 , 169 -70, 174 , 179 , 184
win awards, 75
See also premium wines
Verdot (grape variety) , 49
See also Petite Verdot
Vichon Winery, 218 , 225
vinegar production, 54
viticulture: European peasant tradition of, 51 -52, 55 -56
Vitis vinifera , 9
W
War Production Board, 104
Webb, Brad, 168
Weiner, Harry, 125
Wells Fargo: on market growth (1970s), 201
Wente, Ernest, 77
Wente, Herman, 77 , 108 , 140 -41, 176
Wente Brothers Winery, 10 , 90 , 92 , 115 , 141 , 176 , 187
growth (1960s), 182
remains independent, 187
Western Wine Code Committee, 17
whiskey: wartime disappearance of, 98 , 109 , 130
White Malvoise (grape variety) , 129
White Riesling, 132
White Riesling (grape variety) , 9 , 44
white wines: improved quality of, 162 -63, 166 , 169
White Zinfandel (grape variety) , 23 , 231 n65
Wibberly, Leonard, 147
Wildman, Frederick, 115 , 131
Wildman and Company: distributes domestic wines, 90 -91, 95 -96
William Tell Hotel, 16
Williams, Howard: on psychology of public relations, 158 , 160
Wine Advisory Board, 69 , 144 , 185 , 198
begins statewide public relations campaign, 157
funds public relations campaign, 148 -51, 155 -56
lobbying and educational activities, 86 -87
promotional efforts of, 85 -87, 146 , 148 , 150 , 154 , 157
Wine/America , 198 -200
Wine and Food Society: and promotion of Napa Valley wines, 75 -76
wine festivals:
promote California wines, 155 -56
promote Napa Valley wines, 69 -73, 81
Wine Growers Guild, 223
wine industry:
cost-cutting in, 46
cyclical nature of, 41 -42
economic position at Repeal, 3 -6, 7 -8, 10 -11, 13 -21, 24 , 35 -37, 44 , 87 -88, 136 , 196
failure of small producers (1930s), 32 -37
fraud in, 32 -33
geographic interdependency, 26
grape-pricing system, 44 -45
improved marketing practices, 137 , 145
increased segmentation in, 94 -95
insecurity toward European wines, 87 -94
lean economics of, 45 -46, 50 -51
and New Deal, 7 , 17 , 25
opposes "seal" wine concept, 206
price stabilization (1930s), 25 -26
Rossi on its future, 136
and statewide public relations campaign, 157
and threat of foreign competition, 148 -49, 154 , 160
traditional production methods, 51 -60
undercapitalized, 24 , 32
use of European place-names, 88 -90, 94 -95
wartime expansion in, 106 , 127
World War II's lasting effects on, 98 , 127 , 135 , 196
Wine Institute, 4 , 11 , 18 , 21 , 44 , 51 , 72 , 86 , 108 , 133 , 141 , 145 , 201 , 206
competes with Premium Wine Producers of California, 150 -51
and Golden Gate Exposition, 83 -84
hosts wine tastings, 76
promotes Napa Valley wines, 68 , 76 , 85 , 154 , 157
and threat of foreign competition, 148 -50
wine promotion, regional: Gould on, 156
industry objects to, 156 -57
"Wine Revolution" (1960s), 197 -201
wine tastings:
Paris tasting of 1976, 203 -5, 217
promote Napa Valley wines, 76
as public relations device, 152 -55, 192 -93, 201 , 204
Wine World Estates: Napa Ridge label, 220
wine writers, 141
Winemaking on a Small Scale (Bioletti), 8
winemaking technology: advances in, 62 , 133 -34, 137 , 161 -69, 184 , 200
Winiarski, Warren, 204 , 217
Winkler, A. J., 42
analyzes and recommends grape varieties, 47 -48, 179
promotes varietal specialization, 48 -50
Winkler, Albert, 6
World War II:
and decrease in bulk wine sales, 98 -99, 101 -2
effect on grape prices, 99 -100, 105 -7, 109 , 126 -27
and increased market in California wines, 68 -69, 93 -94, 96 , 98 -100, 103 , 106 -7, 111 -12, 114 , 120 , 127 , 135 , 136 , 185 , 249 n9
lasting effects on wine industry, 98 , 127 , 135 , 196
W. P. Squibb Distilling, 123
Y
yeast cultures, 56 -58, 61 -62, 134 , 162 , 168
Z
Zinfandel, 17 , 90 , 93 , 95 , 131
Zinfandel (grape variety) , 15 , 23 , 28 , 41 -45, 49 -50, 129 -31, 173